MBD with Concurrent Issues - Am I Doing all I Can (without a vet visit)?

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Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled female a little over a year old. Had her for almost exactly a year not sure of her age from the petstore.
  • Handling - Daily right now to provide warm bath/feed/general sick care. Prior to growing ill ~once a week.
  • Feeding - Prior to her getting ill she got crickets loaded with the Flukers calcium enriched jello liquid stuff as well as high-calcium cricket feed.
  • Supplements - Prior to getting ill once weekly calcium dusted crickets. D3 was not provided on a regular schedule for the first few months which I realize likely added to her current problems. This was corrected and she gets D3 spritzed crickets once every 2 weeks when she's eating.
  • Watering - Dripper is present with foliage directly below to catch it and a shallow water dish at the bottom to collect anything that makes it that far. Cage is also misted 2-3 times/day and a humidifier is in the room set to 55%.
  • Fecal Description - Not been eating well and hasn't passed dark poop in ~week. White urea still being passed regularly.
  • History - Purchased from a PetCo - employee suggested the whole litter of on-sale veileds were there due to another employees veiled successfully hatching a clutch.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen (http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/live-birds/zoo-med-repti-breeze-chameleon-kit). When she reached one year we had planned to invest in a larger cage however due to her current illness we have not done this yet.
  • Lighting - See kit above. The UVB bulb has been replaced with a 5.0 Reptisun. 12 hours on and 12 hours off for both bulbs.
  • Temperature - Daytime room temp is 70-80. Original basking spot (currently removed due to illness and preventing falls) measured 80-90 during the day, shaded bottom of cage averaged ~72. Overnight air conditioner in the room is set to 68 during the summer, in winter the room can drop to 65 or so.
  • Humidity - Humidifier in the room is set to keep the level at 55%.
  • Plants - No live plants currently.
  • Placement - In the corner of a bedroom away from most daily traffic (down a hallway from bathroom, kitchen, living room areas). A ceiling fan in the room is always on low and the humidifier is a vornado humidifier with a fan.
  • Location - Midwest US.

Current Problem - ~1 month ago I noticed our cham grab her own leg a few times but she seemed otherwise healthy so I was not concerned. She became lethargic soon after and I investigated online what might be the issue - discovered that the UVB bulb for her enclosure should have been changed a long time ago and purchased a new one that same night. I suspected MBD due to the lack of UVB for so long/insufficient D3. Since that time she has deteriorated becoming weak and unable to hold herself up although she will still move around the bottom of her cage and will attempt to climb up any perches provided but will then slide off the side of them after some time. She has a strong grip and will back away from and hiss at people who try and handle her other than myself (this is normal - she never seemed to take well to being handled so we restricted it in my household so I would be the only one to handle her so she had less to stress about). All high perches have been removed from her cage to prevent falls - to make up for this we are keeping the ambient temperature in the room higher at ~80. For the last 2 weeks I have been giving her daily 20 minute baths in warm water with some calcium powder. Yesterday since she hasn't defecated or shown interest in her food in some time I started feeding her pedialyte with a dropper as well as adding some to her bath. ~2 days ago she started to spend time with the tip of her tongue sticking our of her mouth - not dragging or hanging just maybe 2mm of it sticking out the front. Yesterday was the first day I saw her go to sleep without retracting it and made sure to moisten it with a wet paper towel before I went down for the night and again when I woke up in the morning. Her eyes are neither sunken nor bulging, she does not have a 'wheezy' noise when breathing, there are no discolorations around her mouth although there are small discolored spots on the part of her tongue that she keeps sticking out, no double joints on her legs although her back legs don't always seem to go where she wants them to and she hasn't been using her tail much since we removed the high perches from her cage.

Yes - I know she is sick and I understand that there are things we should have done better (like researching online what the pet store people told us to do to care for her - doy!). We are trying to give her the best care we can now to give her her best chance of pulling through this. Other than suggesting we bring her in to a vet is there anything additional at home I can be doing to help her through this?
 
Can we see a pic of her? Has she laid any eggs yet?
No eggs and I haven't seen her 'puff up' or show receptive colors yet. I'm at work now so here's a 'before' picture from January I had on my phone - I'll come back later in the day to post an 'after' picture while I have her in her bath. Sorry for the bad lighting - this was just a quick pic I snapped to send to the BF about her imminent shed (I get excited over these things... don't judge me XP).
 

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Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled female a little over a year old. Had her for almost exactly a year not sure of her age from the petstore.
  • Handling - Daily right now to provide warm bath/feed/general sick care. Prior to growing ill ~once a week.
  • Feeding - Prior to her getting ill she got crickets loaded with the Flukers calcium enriched jello liquid stuff as well as high-calcium cricket feed.
  • Supplements - Prior to getting ill once weekly calcium dusted crickets. D3 was not provided on a regular schedule for the first few months which I realize likely added to her current problems. This was corrected and she gets D3 spritzed crickets once every 2 weeks when she's eating.
  • Watering - Dripper is present with foliage directly below to catch it and a shallow water dish at the bottom to collect anything that makes it that far. Cage is also misted 2-3 times/day and a humidifier is in the room set to 55%.
  • Fecal Description - Not been eating well and hasn't passed dark poop in ~week. White urea still being passed regularly.
  • History - Purchased from a PetCo - employee suggested the whole litter of on-sale veileds were there due to another employees veiled successfully hatching a clutch.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen (http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/live-birds/zoo-med-repti-breeze-chameleon-kit). When she reached one year we had planned to invest in a larger cage however due to her current illness we have not done this yet.
  • Lighting - See kit above. The UVB bulb has been replaced with a 5.0 Reptisun. 12 hours on and 12 hours off for both bulbs.
  • Temperature - Daytime room temp is 70-80. Original basking spot (currently removed due to illness and preventing falls) measured 80-90 during the day, shaded bottom of cage averaged ~72. Overnight air conditioner in the room is set to 68 during the summer, in winter the room can drop to 65 or so.
  • Humidity - Humidifier in the room is set to keep the level at 55%.
  • Plants - No live plants currently.
  • Placement - In the corner of a bedroom away from most daily traffic (down a hallway from bathroom, kitchen, living room areas). A ceiling fan in the room is always on low and the humidifier is a vornado humidifier with a fan.
  • Location - Midwest US.

Current Problem - ~1 month ago I noticed our cham grab her own leg a few times but she seemed otherwise healthy so I was not concerned. She became lethargic soon after and I investigated online what might be the issue - discovered that the UVB bulb for her enclosure should have been changed a long time ago and purchased a new one that same night. I suspected MBD due to the lack of UVB for so long/insufficient D3. Since that time she has deteriorated becoming weak and unable to hold herself up although she will still move around the bottom of her cage and will attempt to climb up any perches provided but will then slide off the side of them after some time. She has a strong grip and will back away from and hiss at people who try and handle her other than myself (this is normal - she never seemed to take well to being handled so we restricted it in my household so I would be the only one to handle her so she had less to stress about). All high perches have been removed from her cage to prevent falls - to make up for this we are keeping the ambient temperature in the room higher at ~80. For the last 2 weeks I have been giving her daily 20 minute baths in warm water with some calcium powder. Yesterday since she hasn't defecated or shown interest in her food in some time I started feeding her pedialyte with a dropper as well as adding some to her bath. ~2 days ago she started to spend time with the tip of her tongue sticking our of her mouth - not dragging or hanging just maybe 2mm of it sticking out the front. Yesterday was the first day I saw her go to sleep without retracting it and made sure to moisten it with a wet paper towel before I went down for the night and again when I woke up in the morning. Her eyes are neither sunken nor bulging, she does not have a 'wheezy' noise when breathing, there are no discolorations around her mouth although there are small discolored spots on the part of her tongue that she keeps sticking out, no double joints on her legs although her back legs don't always seem to go where she wants them to and she hasn't been using her tail much since we removed the high perches from her cage.

Yes - I know she is sick and I understand that there are things we should have done better (like researching online what the pet store people told us to do to care for her - doy!). We are trying to give her the best care we can now to give her her best chance of pulling through this. Other than suggesting we bring her in to a vet is there anything additional at home I can be doing to help her through this?
Get her outdoors in some "real" sunlight when the weather allows. This can help with calcium and vit D3 metabolism.
 
No eggs and I haven't seen her 'puff up' or show receptive colors yet. I'm at work now so here's a 'before' picture from January I had on my phone - I'll come back later in the day to post an 'after' picture while I have her in her bath. Sorry for the bad lighting - this was just a quick pic I snapped to send to the BF about her imminent shed (I get excited over these things... don't judge me XP).
Please don't give her a bath. I don't see any benefit from doing this it will only stress her out more. Give her a shower instead. Bounce the water of the wall wile she sets on a plant or tree. That way she can drink the water droplets that fall around her. She don't look to have a savvier case of MBD in this earlier pic we will see what the newer pic shows.
 
Please don't give her a bath. I don't see any benefit from doing this it will only stress her out more. Give her a shower instead. Bounce the water of the wall wile she sets on a plant or tree. That way she can drink the water droplets that fall around her. She don't look to have a savvier case of MBD in this earlier pic we will see what the newer pic shows.

I'll try to find the reference ( Got it: http://www.justanswer.com/pet-reptile/5the6-when-woke-morning-observed-panther-chameleon.html ) but I read somewhere that she would be able to absorb some of the calcium/other nutrients she needs to recover from the bath water. I'll skip the bath today and just give her a good shower.
 
I'll try to find the reference ( Got it: http://www.justanswer.com/pet-reptile/5the6-when-woke-morning-observed-panther-chameleon.html ) but I read somewhere that she would be able to absorb some of the calcium/other nutrients she needs to recover from the bath water. I'll skip the bath today and just give her a good shower.
I have herd of doing this in other lizards, but I don't think they have proven it effective in chameleons, and do to them being so much more delicate than some other lizards I personally think the stress would far outweigh the benefits if any. However I'm not a vet, and she is so maybe some of our vets on hear like @ferretinmyshoes will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.
 
No baths - she won't absorb any nutrients that way and it's very stressful for chameleons. Showers and misting for hydration. If her urates are still white, then she is still drinking. It's really important to keep her hydrated.

Pet stores are notorious for offering incomplete or flat-out terrible advise for the keeping and care of chameleons.

Read through this in detail to help work through specific information: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

A couple of things jump out:
  • The "Flukers calcium enriched jello liquid stuff " are not good for the only food your crickets eat. They need fresh veggies and fruits along with a better quality premade food. Bug Burger or Cricket Crack are good options.
  • What is the "high-calcium cricket feed"? Is that also a pet-store Fluker's product?
  • Dust crickets with PLAIN calcium, no D3, every single day. I meant that - every time you feed crickets, use the plain calcium dust. You can't overdose her on calcium. Especially for a girl, she needs the calcium to stay healthy.
  • Dust with a multivitamin with D3 every two weeks.
  • UVB bulbs need to changed about every 6 months.
If she is having issues supporting herself, the MBD could be advanced enough to the point where she needs injectable calcium, rather than dusted insects, to put her back on the right path. A vet can administer this. I think you should take her to an experienced vet.
 
No baths - she won't absorb any nutrients that way and it's very stressful for chameleons. Showers and misting for hydration. If her urates are still white, then she is still drinking. It's really important to keep her hydrated.

Pet stores are notorious for offering incomplete or flat-out terrible advise for the keeping and care of chameleons.

Read through this in detail to help work through specific information: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

A couple of things jump out:
  • The "Flukers calcium enriched jello liquid stuff " are not good for the only food your crickets eat. They need fresh veggies and fruits along with a better quality premade food. Bug Burger or Cricket Crack are good options.
  • What is the "high-calcium cricket feed"? Is that also a pet-store Fluker's product?
  • Dust crickets with PLAIN calcium, no D3, every single day. I meant that - every time you feed crickets, use the plain calcium dust. You can't overdose her on calcium. Especially for a girl, she needs the calcium to stay healthy.
  • Dust with a multivitamin with D3 every two weeks.
  • UVB bulbs need to changed about every 6 months.
If she is having issues supporting herself, the MBD could be advanced enough to the point where she needs injectable calcium, rather than dusted insects, to put her back on the right path. A vet can administer this. I think you should take her to an experienced vet.

The High-Calcium cricket feed is another Flukers product so they are fed http://www.flukerfarms.com/cricket-quencher-calcium.aspx and http://www.flukerfarms.com/hi-cal-cricket-diet.aspx .

The weekly cricket dusting is with plain calcium. When/if she starts showing interest in live feeding again I can start daily dusting the crickets. ~2 weeks crickets are given a D3 spray so we're good on that.
 
If it were me, I would ditch the flukers products - overpriced and underperforming. Fresh fruits and veggies are a better option, and if you sprinkle them with the dry Bug Burger, the BB goes a long way for the price.

Has she had a fecal check done for parasites recently?
 
IMPORTANT UPDATE!

Just got a call from the BF back at home - she pooped! =D
Thinking about it I suppose I shouldn't be surprised that the day after I started feeding her by dropper she poops again but you know, I'll take any good news right now.

and Lathis no she hasn't been screened for parasites recently. When I get home I'll check out that above mentioned poop too see if visually anything seems off. Also is this the Bug Burger you're talking about (the pet store had no idea what I was talking about when I called to see if they carried it): http://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Bug-B...TF8&qid=1462567109&sr=1-1&keywords=bug+burger
 
Yes, that's it. I get it from Amazon, too. Most pet stores don't carry a wide variety of specialty goods, unfortunately. The petco near me doesn't even carry plain calcium. Only multivitamins and calcium with D3. #smh

If you have an exotics vet, take the poop in to them for a fecal smear test today or tomorrow morning. They can look for microscopic parasites and eggs that you can't see with the eye. It should be relatively inexpensive, my vet does it for about $20. Keep it in the fridge (not freezer) in plastic to keep it moist.
 
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