barneythecham
New Member
Help!!
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what is the gender of this baby?
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what is the gender of this baby?
Juvenile VEILED GENER ||
- Thread starter barneythecham
- Start date
Carloscruz
Avid Member
Can you get a Clear photo of the back feet but it looks like a female on the color’s
barneythecham
New Member
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
Your looking at the wrong angle. Get a pic of the back feet FROM BEHIND.
Carloscruz
Avid Member
Is that him in your picture on your profile
barneythecham
New Member
barneythecham
New Member
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
Still wrong angle.
barneythecham
New Member
AmandaS
Retired Moderator
barneythecham
New Member
No, that one is my passed baby. He lived for 8 years!!
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi. You have a Mari. If she is digging, she may be trying to lay eggs. If this is the situation, she needs to have absolute privacy. Do you have a pic of all of her from within the past week?View attachment 336944 View attachment 336945Hey my chameleons father is in denial that she is a girl plz help. Marior Marty
let me know if you need other angles, plus she has been digging in her substrate.
This is a pic from today
Attachments
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
She doesn’t look gravid to me. How old is she? Can you post some pics of your enclosure, including lights? Just want to get an idea of things and perhaps figure out why she would be digging.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Ok. There is a reason that your pretty girl is digging, but it is not one that is pleasant to say or hear. She is trying to escape the enclosure that is inappropriate for her and makes her very stressed and unhappy. Do keep in mind that I am not at all a mean person and it pains me to even risk sounding unkind, but telling you the truth is the only way to help make things better so that your chameleon is happy and healthy. Rather than point out what is wrong, let’s move on to what is needed instead.
Many who live in very dry areas use glass or hybrid enclosures. For the new keeper, I suggest all screen or a hybrid as they are more versatile. The standard enclosure size needed for an adult veiled is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. Something like this is perfect. https://www.diycages.com/collection...ducts/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage It can be difficult to hang plants and branches with screen. If they are in the budget, Dragon Ledges are awesome. https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ You can also use garden trellis or whatever else you can think. Just make sure that the frame of the enclosure is taking all of the weight and not the screen. Yes, the linear T5HO with either 5% or 6.0 uvb is needed. Then basking area needs to be 8-9” below lights. Attaching a probe end of a digital thermometer is best and most accurate. Ideal basking temp is 80. Ideal humidity during the day is between 30-50%. Lots of safe live plants for quick little nibbles and places to hide plus lots of branches and vines to travel upon are needed. Use all of the space. No fake plants inside. No substrate on the floor. Bare floor is easiest to keep clean/most hygienic. Mist for 2 minutes 2-3 times a day. No fogging during the day and if temps are NOT below at least 68-70. Feed a variety of staple feeders - amount depends on age. After looking closer at her, she seems rather young…maybe about 4-5 months old. Feeding amounts are kind of tricky at this age as she needs enough for growth, but overfeeding can overstimulate her to produce a lot of eggs. Veiled ladies can reach sexual maturity as young as 5-6 months and start producing eggs. She will first get her colors (teal, mustard/orange) and her patterns will really show. She’ll also become very restless as she searches for a mate. This is how you know she’s reached sexual maturity. Put a lay bin in her enclosure and leave it there permanently. A bin that is at least 12” long and wide filled to about 6” with washed play sand and moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapse is what is ideal. It helps to have some small drain holes drilled in the bottom of the bin. Supplements are super important to get right. A phosphorus-free calcium without D3 is to be lightly dusted on all feeders except for one day every other week. Then use a combo multivitamin/D3 product like Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3 for that one feeding every other week. Once she’s laid her first clutch, feed her 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week. This plus basking temp of 80 will help reduce her egg production and may even stop it completely. http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
Attaching graphics for feeding guidance and lay bin. I’ve only done a quickie of basics. The full info is here. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Do ask any questions you may have. I know I’ve thrown a lot of info at you.
Many who live in very dry areas use glass or hybrid enclosures. For the new keeper, I suggest all screen or a hybrid as they are more versatile. The standard enclosure size needed for an adult veiled is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. Something like this is perfect. https://www.diycages.com/collection...ducts/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage It can be difficult to hang plants and branches with screen. If they are in the budget, Dragon Ledges are awesome. https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ You can also use garden trellis or whatever else you can think. Just make sure that the frame of the enclosure is taking all of the weight and not the screen. Yes, the linear T5HO with either 5% or 6.0 uvb is needed. Then basking area needs to be 8-9” below lights. Attaching a probe end of a digital thermometer is best and most accurate. Ideal basking temp is 80. Ideal humidity during the day is between 30-50%. Lots of safe live plants for quick little nibbles and places to hide plus lots of branches and vines to travel upon are needed. Use all of the space. No fake plants inside. No substrate on the floor. Bare floor is easiest to keep clean/most hygienic. Mist for 2 minutes 2-3 times a day. No fogging during the day and if temps are NOT below at least 68-70. Feed a variety of staple feeders - amount depends on age. After looking closer at her, she seems rather young…maybe about 4-5 months old. Feeding amounts are kind of tricky at this age as she needs enough for growth, but overfeeding can overstimulate her to produce a lot of eggs. Veiled ladies can reach sexual maturity as young as 5-6 months and start producing eggs. She will first get her colors (teal, mustard/orange) and her patterns will really show. She’ll also become very restless as she searches for a mate. This is how you know she’s reached sexual maturity. Put a lay bin in her enclosure and leave it there permanently. A bin that is at least 12” long and wide filled to about 6” with washed play sand and moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapse is what is ideal. It helps to have some small drain holes drilled in the bottom of the bin. Supplements are super important to get right. A phosphorus-free calcium without D3 is to be lightly dusted on all feeders except for one day every other week. Then use a combo multivitamin/D3 product like Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3 for that one feeding every other week. Once she’s laid her first clutch, feed her 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week. This plus basking temp of 80 will help reduce her egg production and may even stop it completely. http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
Attaching graphics for feeding guidance and lay bin. I’ve only done a quickie of basics. The full info is here. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Do ask any questions you may have. I know I’ve thrown a lot of info at you.
