Is she Ok? Egg laying?

Sancho

New Member
Ok I just found out that they can lay eggs without males being around. In her old cage I used that eco coconut stuff and sometimes I would find her laying in the dirt. Since I have bought a LLL cage and put her in it and there is no dirt just paper towel bottom.. Here are her pics

Sleeping

15843614en1.jpg


Awake

65763672nl6.jpg
 
Can you post a picture of her more directly from the side....I want to look at her arms.

You should provide a suitable container of washed playsand in the cage so she has a place to dig if she does need to lay eggs. If she has no place to dig she could become eggbound.
 
Just play sand? in alittle bowl? don't have any side views of her arms thats all I got.
 
she looks like she's got some eggs in her, thats what mine looked like until today. i used a 50/50 washed playsand and organic soil. u need a container of some good size, i used a 14"x16"x10" box. she needs to be able to pick a spot dig down a few inches and make a tunnel. a small dish wont be suitable.
 
Is it just me who thinks the angle of her back going to her tail is a little awkward in the second picture, along with her rear ankle area?
 
i was just looking at that and thinking maybe mbd, but i didnt want to say anything bec of too little pics and i didnt want to sound like an idiot.
 
It was more the arms I was looking at.

I have use just washed playsand for many many years now. It needs to be moist enough to hold a tunnel once she starts digging. The container needs to be at least big enough for her to fit into when its empty with a couple of inches to spare on all sides including above her. Fill it about 2/3rds full of the sand.

What brand and type (linear tube or compact) UVB light are you using?

What supplements (specifically) are you using and how often do you use each?
Do you gutload? What with? What do you feed the insects (specifically)?

What is the basking temperature?
 
It was more the arms I was looking at.

I have use just washed playsand for many many years now. It needs to be moist enough to hold a tunnel once she starts digging. The container needs to be at least big enough for her to fit into when its empty with a couple of inches to spare on all sides including above her. Fill it about 2/3rds full of the sand.

What brand and type (linear tube or compact) UVB light are you using?

What supplements (specifically) are you using and how often do you use each?
Do you gutload? What with? What do you feed the insects (specifically)?

What is the basking temperature?

I have the ReptiSun 5.0 Fluorescent UVB lamp which they didn't have for a few months since I bought them from petco and they gave me the wrong info and never told me about the UVB.

Supplements? I use Rep-Cal HerptiviteRep-Cal Calcium - Ultrafine with Vitamin D3

I don't gutload. I just started right now with crickets that I bought I have them in a tank. Normally I just feed them crickets from petco. Waxworms and meal worms.
 
I order my crickets and they are delivered right to my door from Lucky Lure 1-866-559-5873. They also have super worms....meal worms are not good for your cham. You can also silkworms and hornworms from coastalsilkworms.com and they too are delivered to your door.....so much eaiser than going to a store. Jann
 
Quick course...
Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce D3 which in turn allows it to use the calcium in its diet. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic. Direct sunlight is the best form of UVB but you need to give the chameleon "shady" places so it can move out of the sunlight if it wants/needs to.

Since most insects we use as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, its important to dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder such as Rep-Cal.

I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene can not build up in the system like preformed vitamin A can. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.

If the chameleons get no direct sunlight, I also dust twice a month light with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 can also build up in the system...so don't overdo it.

Appropriate basking temperature aids in digestion and thus in nutrient absorption.

Gutloading the insects and feeding them a nutritious diet will help too. Crickets can be fed a wide variety of greens (dandelion, kale, endive, collards, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.).

Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phosphorous all play parts in bone health and its important for them to be in balance. You need to look at what you supplement with, what you feed the insects and what you feed to the chamaleon in the way of those things.

Hopefully the calcium levels have been corrected since you found out that the store had given you bad information.
 
Quick course...
Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce D3 which in turn allows it to use the calcium in its diet. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic. Direct sunlight is the best form of UVB but you need to give the chameleon "shady" places so it can move out of the sunlight if it wants/needs to.

Since most insects we use as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, its important to dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder such as Rep-Cal.

I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene can not build up in the system like preformed vitamin A can. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.

If the chameleons get no direct sunlight, I also dust twice a month light with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 can also build up in the system...so don't overdo it.

Appropriate basking temperature aids in digestion and thus in nutrient absorption.

Gutloading the insects and feeding them a nutritious diet will help too. Crickets can be fed a wide variety of greens (dandelion, kale, endive, collards, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.).

Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phosphorous all play parts in bone health and its important for them to be in balance. You need to look at what you supplement with, what you feed the insects and what you feed to the chamaleon in the way of those things.

Hopefully the calcium levels have been corrected since you found out that the store had given you bad information.


They are in a screen cage and in my room next to the window so they do get direct sunlight in the day while I'm at work plus their UVB light. I have umbrella plant and vines in the cage with her. basking heat is about 80-90.

Insects? I don't have room to breed them and etc like most of you but I have a 10 gallon tank with 40 crickets with those orange cubes which people here told me to use and that's what I've been feeding them lately. Mealworms are very rare maybe once or twice a month. All crickets are dusted before I put them in the cage. I give the vitimins once a week to the chams. This weekend is the retile convention and I will be going hopefully they will sell hornworms so I can pick some up for them.

I mist them 3-4 times a day also.
 
Where can I go to get the sand? Home depot or just go to the beach and get some? please help want to buy tonight and get it in there she is on the floor again just laying there.
 
imo, it looks like there may be something else going on with the cham. It would be nice to see other pix of her in other positions....
 
You said..." so they do get direct sunlight in the day"...if the light is passing through the glass then its not getting UVB from the sunlight.

You said..."Insects? I don't have room to breed them and etc like most of you but I have a 10 gallon tank with 40 crickets with those orange cubes which people here told me to use and that's what I've been feeding them lately. Mealworms are very rare maybe once or twice a month. All crickets are dusted before I put them in the cage. I give the vitimins once a week to the chams"...I explained what to feed the crickets while they are in your care before they are fed to the chameleon. IMHO those orange cubes just don't cut it. You don't have to breed your own insects, you just have to look after them well. I also gave you a dusting schedule.

I have kept/bred/hatched/raised chameleons and many other reptiles for over 20 years. My veileds usually live to be over 6 years of age.
 
it seems that the "awake" pix and the "sleep" pix seem to be the same position. Does she get around and walk right or is she sitting in that same position most of the time?
 
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