Is my chams nose ok?

Zoeb

Member
Hi, my presumed female veiled cam has just finished a shed but has had a white patch on her nose for about 3 weeks. Once it fell off it left a patch that looks different and am wondering if it is ok?

She is restless at the moment for the past week and not eatting as much, but i think she may be ready to lay.

All my lights are on the outside so cant see how its a thermal burn. Wondered if maybe it was an infection of some kind from a spot of shed not shifting for a while
 

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ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
It looks like she has receptive colors, do you have a lay bin? Could you fill out the form in my signature below and post a pic of her enclosure, please?
 

Brodybreaux25

Chameleon Enthusiast
It’s just stuck shed, if you zoom in you can see that the white sections have started to pull away from the skin underneath.

Burns will be pink, red, grey, or even black if severe enough and left untreated.
8C403467-F210-4950-A195-3502494862E4.png
 

Zoeb

Member
Help cant find the fo
It looks like she has receptive colors, do you have a lay bin? Could you fill out the form in my signature below and post a pic of her enclosure, please?
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Cham, presumed female from previous forums to help identify. was told it was male and 4 months old 2 months ago which would make it 6 months but too big for that so presumed 6-12 months. Been in my care for 2 months
  • Handling - Only ever twice in my care-she is very afraid of bare hands and previous owner mishandled a lot. when I collected they put their hand above her and just ripped her off her branch to give to me.
  • Feeding - Before she gained her colours week ago she was eating every other day a varied diet of roughly 5 hoppers (size 4-medium to large and 1-2 silk worms and liked to eat water cress too. she has waxworm moths as a treat and every now and again calci worms (they are not her favourite) as of the past week she is being a pain with any food. she has now decided she doesn't want to eat silk worms unless it is the only thing and shes hungry. will eat hoppers but 2 or 3 which we are leaving to roam. she would hand feed before for anything except superworms.
  • Supplements - daily with calium no d3 or phos, bi weekly with calcium with d3-repashi calciplus, and bi weekly with arcadia earth pro a
  • Watering - we have a monsoon system spraying every 6 hours for 2 mins (I find it difficult to keep the humidity at 50% in a mesh cage otherwise) am thinking about putting plastic sheet on the back to help with this. she also has a big dripper but is quite shy and I never see her drink from it.
  • Fecal Description - not been tested but is apparently normal-had people check. poops either every day or every other. used to come to the bottom to poop but the last week, shes just pooping from the basking spot into the plants.
  • History - not kept in suitable condition as a juvenile (rescue pet) kept in small terrarium in a set up for what looked like beared dragon. Very stressed when we got her (almost a log brown or black colour). She hasn't been coloured this way since.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - mesh-zoomed XL
  • Lighting - T5 strip & 70w basking. she use to have double dome (I only use one of the domes) when we got her with a coil daylight bulb & 70w basking which obviously the coiled daylight was not good. currently on a timer from 7am to 7pm but she has been following the natural sun going to bed at 6pm on some days
  • Temperature - Lowest overnight temp at the moment is about 17/18 but we have the heating in our house to come on if it reaches 12C in winter (sorry I am clueless over F) cage itself about 22-24 at the top in the day but basking is about 29C we have an anologue thermometer in there and hydrogometer but also use digital to check
  • Humidity - 50% by mister
  • Plants - 3 live plants. 1 large drachnea & 1 small one & a large palm. she doesn't eat either. a collect of fake for coverage
  • Placement - cage sits on the floor in I guess you can call it a snug. not the living room or a kitchen, a converted dining room. a small proportion of the window is visible and she likes to follow the sun around when she gets it but it get very little direct sun. the window has a blind on it which I pull down so she cant see the sky
  • Location - North east uk

Current Problem - she has had a white patch of what looked like shed from last shed to this on the left of her nose. it has come of in the last few days leaving what looks like a scar and not matching the right side.

she is very restless and up & down and round and round her cage like a chameleon possessed, basking in between. I believe this to be due to gaining her adult colours and wanting to lay. she has a lay bin full of 12inch of ply sand. she has been trotting across this regularly but I've not seen any digging. I've put a blanket over the front of the cage to give some privacy. She has been very moody and puffs up when she was given a hopper this morning. she won't eat anything today
 

Zoeb

Member
It’s just stuck shed, if you zoom in you can see that the white sections have started to pull away from the skin underneath.

Burns will be pink, red, grey, or even black if severe enough and left untreated.View attachment 217847
Hi Brody, not the white bits that I'm concerned about....its the patch just below the white bit on the left that doesn't match the right that sort of looks like a scar. That wasn't there the last time I spoke to you a few weeks ago to sex her.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Help cant find the fo

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Cham, presumed female from previous forums to help identify. was told it was male and 4 months old 2 months ago which would make it 6 months but too big for that so presumed 6-12 months. Been in my care for 2 months
  • Handling - Only ever twice in my care-she is very afraid of bare hands and previous owner mishandled a lot. when I collected they put their hand above her and just ripped her off her branch to give to me.
  • Feeding - Before she gained her colours week ago she was eating every other day a varied diet of roughly 5 hoppers (size 4-medium to large and 1-2 silk worms and liked to eat water cress too. she has waxworm moths as a treat and every now and again calci worms (they are not her favourite) as of the past week she is being a pain with any food. she has now decided she doesn't want to eat silk worms unless it is the only thing and shes hungry. will eat hoppers but 2 or 3 which we are leaving to roam. she would hand feed before for anything except superworms.
  • Supplements - daily with calium no d3 or phos, bi weekly with calcium with d3-repashi calciplus, and bi weekly with arcadia earth pro a
  • Watering - we have a monsoon system spraying every 6 hours for 2 mins (I find it difficult to keep the humidity at 50% in a mesh cage otherwise) am thinking about putting plastic sheet on the back to help with this. she also has a big dripper but is quite shy and I never see her drink from it.
  • Fecal Description - not been tested but is apparently normal-had people check. poops either every day or every other. used to come to the bottom to poop but the last week, shes just pooping from the basking spot into the plants.
  • History - not kept in suitable condition as a juvenile (rescue pet) kept in small terrarium in a set up for what looked like beared dragon. Very stressed when we got her (almost a log brown or black colour). She hasn't been coloured this way since.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - mesh-zoomed XL
  • Lighting - T5 strip & 70w basking. she use to have double dome (I only use one of the domes) when we got her with a coil daylight bulb & 70w basking which obviously the coiled daylight was not good. currently on a timer from 7am to 7pm but she has been following the natural sun going to bed at 6pm on some days
  • Temperature - Lowest overnight temp at the moment is about 17/18 but we have the heating in our house to come on if it reaches 12C in winter (sorry I am clueless over F) cage itself about 22-24 at the top in the day but basking is about 29C we have an anologue thermometer in there and hydrogometer but also use digital to check
  • Humidity - 50% by mister
  • Plants - 3 live plants. 1 large drachnea & 1 small one & a large palm. she doesn't eat either. a collect of fake for coverage
  • Placement - cage sits on the floor in I guess you can call it a snug. not the living room or a kitchen, a converted dining room. a small proportion of the window is visible and she likes to follow the sun around when she gets it but it get very little direct sun. the window has a blind on it which I pull down so she cant see the sky
  • Location - North east uk

Current Problem - she has had a white patch of what looked like shed from last shed to this on the left of her nose. it has come of in the last few days leaving what looks like a scar and not matching the right side.

she is very restless and up & down and round and round her cage like a chameleon possessed, basking in between. I believe this to be due to gaining her adult colours and wanting to lay. she has a lay bin full of 12inch of ply sand. she has been trotting across this regularly but I've not seen any digging. I've put a blanket over the front of the cage to give some privacy. She has been very moody and puffs up when she was given a hopper this morning. she won't eat anything today
What are you gutloading with? Repashy Calcium Plus is a multivitamin as well, though I’d recommend getting the LoD formula if you stick with it. The Arcadia supplements should be used according to the Arcadia insectivore schedule. You can use either phosphorous free calcium without D3 every feeding and a multivitamin with D3 (Zoo Med Reptivite with D3) every 2 weeks, Repashy Calcium Plus LoD every feeding, or use Arcadia supplements following their insectivore schedule. What strength is your uvb? The veiled care sheet here has proper temperature parameters in celcius. I would get a stand if possible for the cage. I see the lump you’re talking about, but I don’t know what it is.
 

Zoeb

Member
Sorry uvb is 12%....see pic

I gutload with leafy greens such as big watercress, pea shoots, lambs lettuce. I am considering a heat mat to place the hoppers on to heat better

Its not a lump she has. Its more of a scar as its flat but isnt scaly (if u can call it that) like the other side. She had like a mound of white before it fell off, could it be possible that she had infection under it?

I presume the restless is normally whilst they look to lay? How long will it last...ish?
 

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ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Sorry uvb is 12%....see pic

I gutload with leafy greens such as big watercress, pea shoots, lambs lettuce. I am considering a heat mat to place the hoppers on to heat better

Its not a lump she has. Its more of a scar as its flat but isnt scaly (if u can call it that) like the other side. She had like a mound of white before it fell off, could it be possible that she had infection under it?

I presume the restless is normally whilst they look to lay? How long will it last...ish?
Thanks, 12% is too high for that cage, get a Zoo Med 10.0 bulb. In the resources tab here, click on food and nutrition and scroll down until you find the gutloading list, I would add some more variety to yours, or add in a quality commercial gutload, like Pangea, Cricket Crack, Mazuri, Arcadia, or Repashy. As for the “scar”, I’m not sure, it could be possible. Yes, they’ll get restless and eat less when about to lay, it’ll last until she lays. Make sure to give her extra calcium and hydration after she lays.
 

Zoeb

Member
Thanks, 12% is too high for that cage, get a Zoo Med 10.0 bulb. In the resources tab here, click on food and nutrition and scroll down until you find the gutloading list, I would add some more variety to yours, or add in a quality commercial gutload, like Pangea, Cricket Crack, Mazuri, Arcadia, or Repashy. As for the “scar”, I’m not sure, it could be possible. Yes, they’ll get restless and eat less when about to lay, it’ll last until she lays. Make sure to give her extra calcium and hydration after she lays.

To be honest I am getting mixed messages. I bought that and many other things such as dustings/vitamins as I was advised to before by the chameleon network and whilst I am thankful for the help, what one person tells me, someone else tells me something different which is costing me a small fortune in money.

I was told not to gutload with artificial parketed items and only fresh fruit and veg so I did. If i can get something the locusts will eat that doesnt require me to got to Sainsburys every 5 seconds thats ideal.

Will the hoppers eat omigold do you know as that was another collosal waste of money also. I was told to buy by the chameleon network To make into a cake that my cham wont touch with a barge poll.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
To be honest I am getting mixed messages. I bought that and many other things such as dustings/vitamins as I was advised to before by the chameleon network and whilst I am thankful for the help, what one person tells me, someone else tells me something different which is costing me a small fortune in money.

I was told not to gutload with artificial parketed items and only fresh fruit and veg so I did. If i can get something the locusts will eat that doesnt require me to got to Sainsburys every 5 seconds thats ideal.

Will the hoppers eat omigold do you know as that was another collosal waste of money also. I was told to buy by the chameleon network To make into a cake that my cham wont touch with a barge poll.
I understand, lots of clashing info on what’s best! Some commercial gutloads, like the ones I listed above, are a high enough quality to feed your feeders. Which omnigold are you talking about?
 

Zoeb

Member
I understand, lots of clashing info on what’s best! Some commercial gutloads, like the ones I listed above, are a high enough quality to feed your feeders. Which omnigold are you talking about?
Actually....looking at the contents i dont think that is wise to feed to hoppers, forget i said that....in the bin it goes.

What do you find works best to feed to locust as well astbe fresh list out of what yoi have listed above. Those appear to be her favorite. She is not happy about crickets but that maybe because her previous owner use to put as full box in her cage to constantly bite her.
 

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ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Actually....looking at the contents i dont think that is wise to feed to hoppers, forget i said that....in the bin it goes.

What do you find works best to feed to locust as well astbe fresh list out of what yoi have listed above. Those appear to be her favorite. She is not happy about crickets but that maybe because her previous owner use to put as full box in her cage to constantly bite her.
Yes, not for chams. They do make an insectigold for veileds, though. I’m in the US, so we don’t have locusts (unfortunately), but I imagine anything off of the gutload list in resources or a quality commercial gutload I listed above will suffice. Maybe someone who feeds locusts can chime in on that.
 

Zoeb

Member
I can get arcadia products in th uk. Never seen or heard of cricket crack and can get many different pangeas here if locusts will eat it. Mazuri i saw a forum about how much rubbish it contained.....dont think i can get that here anyway.
I am interested in cricket crack but dont know where to buy from in the uk
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
I can get arcadia products in th uk. Never seen or heard of cricket crack and can get many different pangeas here if locusts will eat it. Mazuri i saw a forum about how much rubbish it contained.....dont think i can get that here anyway.
I am interested in cricket crack but dont know where to buy from in the uk
Full Throttle Feeders (a site sponsor) can ship Cricket Crack to the UK. If you go with Pangea, make sure to get their gutload (only one kind).
 
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