Inflamed eye maybe?

The thing is, we try not to give advice/guess here unless we have the full picture. Otherwise we're, at best, taking a stab in the dark.

@Lee123 - it does look a little baggy to me for sure. Would you be interested filling out the following form? None of us are medical professionals, but we can catch husbandry issues that can cause problems somewhere along the line.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
He looks better.
i just filled out this, not sure if anything alarms anyone,
  • Your Chameleon - AMBILOBE PANTHER, 1.5 years old. I’ve had him for 3 months
  • Handling - 2-5 times a week
  • Feeding - Crickets, wax worms, horn worms, butter worms and silks. feeding him a few of everything and he eats when he wants to eat.
  • Supplements - repti calcium 3-5 time’s a week and reptivite twice a week
  • Watering - Mist kings like 6-7 times a day for 1 minute, along with a hand mister if he seems thirsty
  • Fecal Description - kinda orange urate but he’s drinking more now so he should be fine when he poos next, and then a dark brown feces not slimy or Anthing seems like a good poop to me
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type -REPTIBREEZE XL
  • Lighting - Basking 75W light and a t5ho uvb light bar and his lights are on 12 hours a day from 10-10
  • Temperature - 70-75 in the enclosure 80-85 at basking spot. Lowest tempature over night would be around 70 maybe 65 Lowest overnight temp. Hummidity is around 45-50 and then 70-80 after misting
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
  • Ottawa Ontario
 
From my experience the first thing that popped into my head was wet and cold lol just a guess ofcourse as we don't have the temps yet. Brody from what I gather you are a very experienced keeper of Panthers I'm curios of your first impression of the pics? If you had to guess.
Wasn’t trying to tear you down, just thought I might be missing something!
 
I'm alittle OCD I put a small tropical fish tank heater in my mister reservoir so it stays above 75°. They don't seem to like colder water but when the warm water hits them in the morning you can almost see them smile :)
 
I'm alittle OCD I put a small tropical fish tank heater in my mister reservoir so it's stays above 75°. They don't seem to like colder water but when the warm water hits them in the morning you can almost see them smile :)
Same here with my MK, ultimately useless... You must have a Monsoon. MistKing makes such a fine mist all heat dissipates as soon as it leaves the nozzle...
 
MistKing makes such a fine mist all heat dissipates as soon as it leaves the nozzle...

It's a tad off topic, but I wonder if that's one of the reasons my Lily girl dislikes the MistKing so intensely... she had gotten used to me using tepid water in the spray bottle. :unsure:
 
Same here with my MK, ultimately useless... You must have a Monsoon. MistKing makes such a fine mist all heat dissipates as soon as it leaves the nozzle...

I built a dyi mistking for under 40 bucks I call it mistGod lol jk. I don't use the ultra fine fogger tips just the cheap standard hardware store bits. I have in the past but they clog easy and I've noticed most of my chams liked the larger droplets. I do have the original monsoon I've had for more than 5 yrs now and I did use the heater in it also, I agree the temp of the mist even when it's larger drops does cool as soon as it's shot thru the air but it's got to be better than 60° water going thru the same process even with the fine mist fogger tips, I've never tested actual temps of water leaving the mist heads besides misting my hand so it could all be in my head but it feels warmer lol it's the OCD talking I'm sure :)
 
It's a tad off topic, but I wonder if that's one of the reasons my Lily girl dislikes the MistKing so intensely... she had gotten used to me using tepid water in the spray bottle. :unsure:
I’d say that’s a safe bet. The mist is just so fine it just can’t hold the heat. Neither of mine run from it but they react just like we do when someone throws a bucket of cold water on us ! Lol
 
i just filled out this, not sure if anything alarms anyone,
  • Your Chameleon - AMBILOBE PANTHER, 1.5 years old. I’ve had him for 3 months
  • Handling - 2-5 times a week
  • Feeding - Crickets, wax worms, horn worms, butter worms and silks. feeding him a few of everything and he eats when he wants to eat.
  • Supplements - repti calcium 3-5 time’s a week and reptivite twice a week
  • Watering - Mist kings like 6-7 times a day for 1 minute, along with a hand mister if he seems thirsty
  • Fecal Description - kinda orange urate but he’s drinking more now so he should be fine when he poos next, and then a dark brown feces not slimy or Anthing seems like a good poop to me
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type -REPTIBREEZE XL
  • Lighting - Basking 75W light and a t5ho uvb light bar and his lights are on 12 hours a day from 10-10
  • Temperature - 70-75 in the enclosure 80-85 at basking spot. Lowest tempature over night would be around 70 maybe 65 Lowest overnight temp. Hummidity is around 45-50 and then 70-80 after misting
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
  • Ottawa Ontario
The repti calcium doesnt contain any vitamin D3 does it ? Eye issues are usally related to missing vitamins in the diet or improper lighting for prolonged periods of time. Your lighting is adequate which leads me to think there is something missing or too much of something in his diet. Are you gutloading his feeders, if so what are you gutloading with?
 
The repti calcium doesnt contain any vitamin D3 does it ? Eye issues are usally related to missing vitamins in the diet or improper lighting for prolonged periods of time. Your lighting is adequate which leads me to think there is something missing or too much of something in his diet. Are you gutloading his feeders, if so what are you gutloading with?
I buy all my food from from a reptile store, they say they gut load everything but I’m not sure with what
 
I also believe you’re over misting the little guy. 6-7 times with a mister and then hand mister seems abit too much. This is unrelated to the eye issue and I understand the air is dry during the winter here in Canada. You want to aim for a high humidity throughout the cool night which can be obtained by a mist before the lights go off, a “morning dew” effect by a mist soon after the lights come on in the am, most likely where he’ll do most of his drinking and if you feel the enclosure gets very dry throughout the day a short afternoon mist is fine.
 
You're giving me too much credit @Hashtag ChamLife ..but thanks!

@Lee123 said..."Supplements - repti calcium 3-5 time’s a week and reptivite twice a week"...does the reptivite have vitsminA in it? If so, what kind?
Also it's recommended to dust at almost every feeding with a phos free calcium powder to ensure that the chameleon gets enough calcium to balance the phos ratio in many of the insects we use as feeders.
I dust twice a month with a phos free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 it needs from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from the supplements can build up in the system and lead to an overdose but D3 produced from exposure to UVB won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the uvb at will. I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A because prOformed sources won't build up in the system like prEformed sources will. This leaves it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs any preformed or not. It's thought that some chameleons or maybe all need preformed sources of vitamin A. (I'm still on the fence about it in some ways.)

Speaking of vitaminA...it can play a part in eye and skin issues among other things.
 
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