I thought Stella just had to poo... Now I fear Charlie gotta hold of her!!!

Ashley85

Member
MY CHAMS:

Charlie: Veiled... Male... **maybe 5 months old(feel free to enlighten me im now gunna assume he's older maybe I'm wrong and an OVER THE TOP REACTING CHAM MOM)**... Been in my care since February 6th

Stella: Veiled... Female...**maybe 5 months old(feel free to enlighten me im now gunna assume she's older maybe im
wrong amd an OVER THE TOP REACTING CHAM MOM)**... Been in my care since February 6th

HANDLING:

I try to hold or interect closely everyday depends on mood/weather there shedding/time of day/ etc...

FEEDING:

Staple diet of crickets... Charlie lovess the superworms Stella not so much so I also throw some hornworms and wax worms(not more than 3 times in a week) Dubia roaches (Charlie showed interest in them... Stella never really has still have like 6 left out the container i bought a few weeks back)
Mangos... Fed once..
Stella tore them down but doesnt seem to get she has to open her mouth or something cause she wont ahow any interest at all now;
Charlie acted like I had tried to poision him...
I've been letting them come to me and handfeed the superworms~4-8
waxworms3-6(whatever they will consume in one sittin no more than the # amount written beside the feeder).. or hornworms(1 each)

I then have been leaving a feeder bowl with crickets in it if i leave for the day or sometimes in the morning after there misting and some sun rays i will take the previously dusted crickets that didn't get eatn and let the few lose to let Charlie & Stella's Cham instincts kick in a hunt them down for some daily FORCED EXERCISE..

Our feeding schedule I guess you would say would be in the early hrs of the morning.. And then anything they can consume before my son comes home from school which then he checks on them removes feeder dish(do to them needing proper amount of time under lighting for digestion I've assumed it best they not consume food later into the afyernoon/evening?!?!) and does a misting!!!

As far as gutloading goes... The 1st couple weeks I was gutloading with what "EXPERTS" would peobably refer to as SYNTHETICS... But after many nights up on this forum stalking treads... AND BIGGG THANKS TO @Brody..... I IMMEDIATELY stopped those and started just chopping up fresh mustard greens collards sweet potatoes carrots and mangos
AND ORDERED CRICKET CRACK YESTERDAY OFF AMAZON!!!

SUPPLEMENTS:
ExoTerra Calcium...
Everyday
ExoTerra MultiVit... 1st & 3rd Sunday
Zoo Med ReptiCal+D3.. 2nd & 4th Sunday

WATERING:

Currently my schedule allows for a flexible schedule due to winter hours so im able to mist 3-5 times threwout the day... But the misting system is next on the shopping list bc busy island summer time is just around the corner AND I ONLY WAMT THE BEST FOR MY BABIES!!!

I usually mist till my whole bottle (the size of a Windex bottle) is empty which assures me that they have both had atleast a good 3mins in the morning(due to them being extra thirsty bc you know just waking up and having morning breath nothings beats a nice cold drink in the a.m.)

Then atleast 1-2mins on the other mistings and then when the kid gets home around 4 is when they get another longgg afternoon misting

And then on Sundays when we switch up our dusting supplements i do an extra long misting as to make them clean there eye sockets or whatever it is I've read they need to keep there eyes clean and healthy(IF IM WRONG PLZ TELL ME)!!!

Yess I see both Charlie and Stella drinking when I'm misting... Charlie has learned he can open his mouth and i can spray right in amd he gets a bigger gulp...

I also have this Flukers Mini Dripper thing i had bought on one of the 1st shopping sprees right after the babies arrived... I have since then read on this forum about filling it with ice cubes and thats what I do and place over a Pothos plant to leak down and over inside!!!

FECAL DESCRIPTION:

CHARLIE:
poop=brown lil turds
Urates=white
Normal consistency coming out together
STELLA:
poop=brown lil turds
Urates=white
Normal consistency coming out together
(until recently)
**NEITHER CHARLIE OR STELLA HAVE BEEN TESTED FOR PARASITES**

HISTORY:

Charlie and Stella have been housed together since the day they arrived February 6th 2019.. I was under the impression they could be housed together up till about 6-8 months but I'm thinking this assumption I've made from something I read must be wrong and/or I'm off on how old I think my babies are.. I knew they couldn't stay together permanently and I clearly had no intentions of mating them bc this makes me a 1st time Cham parent!!! I just want to do what's best and I've already come to the conclusion TAKING TOMORROW OFF TO BUILD ANOTHER CHAM ENCLOSURE FOR STELLA IS MY BEST BET TO MAKE SURE I DNT NOT HAVE ANYTHING A FEMALE CHAM MIGHT NEED FOR HUSBANDRY!!!

**SEE CURRENT PROBLEM**

CAGE TYPE:

D.I.M. SCREENED 24"X24"X48

LIGHTING:

Zoo Med 24" T5 High Output Terrarium Hood... Which I clearly realized they would PROBABLY need more so I have put a Reptisun 10.0 uvb in the corner going down oppsite of the way the hood faces which is at a diagnoal as you will see in piks!!

I orginally had several reptile dome lighting fixtures so I have fixed those as my heat sources using...

Zilla Day Blue Light Incandescent Reptile Bulb, 75-watt and 100- watt

ExoTerra daytime heat lamp 100-watt

Our schedule is lights kick on at 730am and kick off at 830pm

TEMPERATURE:

70°-95°.... Lowest overnight temp 60°... I have a temp/humidity control attached inside at about the lowest point otf branches amd plants to make sure it doesnt drop below 70° @ the lowest part amd then i have a room/surface thermometer(just placed an order for an actual infared heat laser thermometer yesterday off Amazon!)

HUMIDITY: 40-70%.... When I spray it down I let it dry out COMPLETLY before I would go spraying it down AGAIN!!! But it doesn't ever lose the humidity in my Chams lil homes since I've had them... I have been able to maintain that personally but like I stated before DEFINITELY the next on my list soon bc I'm more of the hands on so I'm going to have to have time to asses the whole misting system with the babies!!!

**SUGGESTIONS ON BEST MISTING SYSTEM PLZZZ KEEP IN MIND IM BUYING DOUBLE I'M ASSUMING QUICKER THAN EXPECTED**

PLANTS:
Pothos
Mini Shafaler
Mini Bamboo
Money Tree
English Ivy
Bromeliads

PLACEMENT:

As wierd as it sounds I have there enclousure inside the master bathroom.. This has more or less been my MINI GREENHOUSE inside my house.. I have a old clawfoot tub its on the backside of the house that faces the ocean so it gets all that morning sun which has kept all the plants flourishing threw our cold winters... Needless to say I've always wanted a CHAMELEON ended up with 2(story of my life)... SO ITS ALSO BASICLY THE QUIETEST LEAST TRAFFIC AND ONLY ONE AIR VENT ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF BATHROOM... I do live in an old beach house that was built way before the 50's and we just had a hurricane hit that flooded so NO INSULATION BACK UNDER HOUSE YETTT.. So tile floor seems alot colder so I have set the enclosure ontop of a solid bin thats 1.5' off the ground which would put the top of the enclousre 5.5' from the ground they sit a good foot above my head when I walk up to the enclosure.

LOCATION:

I live in Carolina Beach which a town on Pleasure Island in the south eastern part of North Carolina!

CURRENT PROBLEM:

1.) MY APOLOGIES FOR STARTERS FOR LETTING SO MUCH TIME PASS SINCE GETTIN BABIES AND MAKING A THREAD OF MY OWN AS INTRO OR WAY TO RECEIVING HELP AS THEY GROW.. NO EXCUSES!!!

2.) ANY INFO ANYONE CAN PASS ON ABOUT MISTING SYSTEM... CORRECT ARCADIA BULBS TO GET...FACTS.. ADVICE.. CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM ILL TAKE IT ALLL PLZZZ AND THANK YOUUU @Brodybreaux25. @Thehippie.

3.) HOW OLD ARE THESE BABIES IN UR EXPERTISE

4.)ADVICE AS FAR AS MY FEMALE GOES.. OKAY SO:
* I noticed her looking a little hefty well I just assumed she needed to poo and she would be fine.. Well its now day 2 and i cant honestly say I know for a fact she has pooed but there was some dryer not so moist lil poo yestersay but i didnt see her do it but it was after Charlie had ALREADY unloaded HIMSELF for the morning so i assuked it was hers and thought GREAT.. Welll after that whole process threwout yesterday come about 3 or 4 its like i heard fast ruffling of the fake ivy leaves i have weaved into something so i jumped up to go see what it was and I thought @ 1st OMG CHARLIE TRYING TO KILL STELLA.. BUT GO FIGURE NOW AFTER THE HEAT OF THE MOMENT(saving my baby girl from that mean lil boy..lol) I THEN REALIZED OMGGG.. MAYBE HE WAS TRYING TO GETTTT HERRRR YA KNOW... ! Well then it was funny for a second and then quickly that thought left and ALL THE THOUGHTS OF HOW HER HUSBANDRY ISNT RIGHT FOR A LADY CHAM I THOUGHT I HAD A YOUNG LIL GIRL JUST HEADIN INTO TEENS.. SO TODAY IS THE DAY WE BUILD ANOTHER CAGE AND GET THINGS RIGHT FOR HER BUT I GUESS NOW IDK IF MY HEADS MESSING WITH ME BC I MOST CERTAINLY HAVENT SEEN ANY GRAVID SIGNS BUT LORD IF HE WAS TRYING TO GET HER HAS HE GOT HER BEFORE WAS SHE TO YOUNG AM I OVER REACTING?!?! IM KEEPING STELLA CONFINED AS TO SEE WEATHER OR NOT SHE POOPS AT ALL 2DAY... IF I DNT SEE ANY POOP 2DAY THEN I CAN SAY THAT COULD BE CONSIDEDERED 2 DAYS AND I SHOULD RUSH HER TO A VET RIGHT?!?!?
 

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Ashley85

Member
YEPPP... Charlie's hormones are raging for SUREEEE he is NOTT PLAYING and DNT care whos standing by... I have honestly been on poop patrol all morning so I haven't brought myself to go start building bc i was more worried about her IMMEDIATE HEALTH verses an ENCLOSURE that might be wrong ANYWAYS ive now removed charlie and seperated them!

Let me know what piks to post and i will i didnt wanna do the freaked momma overload!!
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
They're 6-7 months. They definitely need to be separated. They're both reaching sexual maturity. I'm assuming they're clutch mates as well so that would be no Bueno!
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi there and welcome. It will take me a bit to go through the info provided. But you should never house two together except for a breeding period which is normally no more then 12-24 hours. They look older then 5 months to me which means you now have the possibility of fertile eggs when she lays. The stress of housing two together may be why they are not really eating as well. They are stressed....
I do not breed and have no experience here except you should consider doing a secondary thread so experienced keepers can chime in about the potential of her laying fertile eggs and what you need to do...
If they are clutch mates you have that issue as well.....
 

JoXie411

Chameleon Enthusiast
The first thing that need to be done is separate them. Chameleons are solitary animals. They should never be together unless like @Beman said if your breeding them. The stress of her being with a male could be why she’s not pooping. Would you poop if you thought someone was trying to kill you?
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Ok so I don't understand exactly what you mean with your lighting. You will want a T5HO fixture that is the length of the enclosure going across the center of the enclosure. You will want either a 10.0 zoo med uvb bulb or a 12% arcadia uvb bulb.
Lighting is a 12 hour on 12 hour off cycle with total darkness for the 12 hours.
Why are you using so many heat bulbs?
Temps.... Your low is perfectly fine. They can do a low of 50 degrees at night. Your high of 95 is wayyyyy too hot. Right now they would both need to be at 85 for their basking temps. For the female she will always stay right below or at 85 for basking. Once your male is an adult is when we kick that up to about 90 degrees or so.
Humidity level is fine.
Misting system such as the mistking I highly recommend... They should be getting misted 3 times a day for at least 2 minutes to clean their eyes and drink.
Plants.... Ok Veiled's eat their plants. I would stick with the "safe" plants. Pothos, ficus, hibiscus, Croton, and dwarf umbrella. Just because something is on a safe plant like for another species does not mean it would be good for your Veiled because they will eat them.
Top layer of soil should be covered with 1 inch river rock to avoid them eating the soil.
Feeding.... waxworms are treats only because they are very high in fat content. So we are talking one here and there. Superworms should only be 20 percent of the total diet. So if you are feeding 10 feeders then you need to only feed 2 supers. Feeding a variety is important. And as I already said they will not eat as much when stressed, Shedding, or when your female is getting ready to lay eggs.
You need to be working them over to an every other day feeding schedule. 10-12 feeders every other day. To do this reduce by 2 feeders on the every other day each week until you are only feeding 10-12 every other day. This will need to be reduced further when they are adults as well to 7-10at most. The more you feed a female at this age the harder it will be on her with her laying because they produce larger clutches when fed too much. This drains them when they have to lay a lot of eggs. You will want to learn more on her special care moving forward.

Here is a link to lay bins https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/egg-laying-and-the-laying-bin.345/
Here is a link to their care sheet https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Here is my list of must haves for any keeper. Some of which may be of interest to you and some you may already have or I may have already covered. and images that will help you.

Cage 24x24x48 like this https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Rept...&sprefix=extra+large+reptibre,aps,204&sr=8-11

Drip tray you can buy for these is like a hotwater heater pan...

or you can spend more and get a better quality with drip tray for the water to collect like so in screen or clearside. The dragon ledges help attach potted plants higher in the cage. But he builds in a schedule so you have to pre order and wait to get your cham. or you can buy the drip tray from dragon strand and the ledges and get the reptibreeze cage.

https://dragonstrand.com/screen-cages-2/

FYI You may need to wrap at least the back and one side panel if not both of the cage in clear plastic like a shower curtain and attach with magnets so the water does not spray out.

Lighting for UVB and plant growth is dual or quad T5 HO fixture. You can look on lightyourreptiles.com These need to be the 24 inch fixture. UVB bulb you get will depend on the species of cham you get.

Heat lamp I would recommend a: https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Rept...&s=gateway&sprefix=fukers+dimm,aps,208&sr=8-1

bulb for it is your preference but I am partial to zilla brand day light white: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRUU32/ref=twister_B07C8WY1XN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

May need timers for different fixtures as well. 12 hour on and off for lights on chams.

Dimming Thermostat for Heat lamp can be used with any dome light and ensures you will not bake your cham as it will keep your bulb at the exact temp you need it at basking. Please ensure that you are getting a dimming thermostat. Herpstat and Vivarium Electronics both make dimming thermostats.

https://www.joshsfrogs.com/vivarium-electronics-ve-200-thermostat.html

https://www.joshsfrogs.com/vivarium-electronics-ve-300-thermostat.html

https://www.pangeareptile.com/store...MIw4mU17-b4QIVENvACh0Y8g1MEAYYASABEgLusPD_BwE

Automatic mister a must have in my opinion. https://www.amazon.com/MistKing-222...=gateway&sprefix=mistking+stra,aps,206&sr=8-1

hydrometer and thermometer to measure heat and humidity you want a few to get different levels. Most use a wired thermometer at basking level then a non wired other area : https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-drt-1...reptiles&qid=1552311763&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-2

and https://www.amazon.com/Alfie-Pet-Pe...eptiles&qid=1552311838&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-18

Live plants like Pothos or dwarf umbrella plants. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/plants/

If you get a veiled you have to put large 1inch or bigger river rock in the top so they don't eat the soil. :)

Vines and branches for horizontal pathways in different sizes for grip: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Ju...nes&qid=1552311902&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1&th=1

And then you need a multivitamin to give 2 times a month every other week, Calcium with D3 to give 2 times a month the opposite every other week, and then a calcium without D3 used nearly every feeding. See image below.

Feeders: Need to offer variety. See image below. can buy feeders from a site sponsor or rainbowmealworms.com

Feeder containers: I have bought my own as well as converted plastic tubs to hold them. I like these but the large size only if I buy one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073KOGOG/ref=twister_B06X9LKF3Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Feeder food: something like Repashy Bug burger, cricket crack, or insect fuel from Arcadia brand if you want a predone instead of fresh veg and fruit everyday. see image below for feeder food


Supplements pic.jpeg
Gutloading 101.jpeg
UVB lighting pic.jpeg
nonUVB pic.jpeg
Basic Feeder pic.jpeg
 

Graves923

Chameleon Enthusiast
FYI, you can buy one mist king system and use it for multiple enclosures. You'll need to buy a few T- fittings and extra nozzles but two chameleon enclosures can run off one Mist King pump and timer.

I use my mist king pump for both my chameleon enclosure and dart frog terrarium.
 

Ashley85

Member
Thank YOUUU... Im trying to read and process EVERYTHING ahhh i wamt to respond to so many of yall trying to take it all in and work on envlosure to make sure her husbandry is just right plzzz no one think om avoiding the responses im sooo grateful...

Update.. After Charlie tried gettin Stella making me clearly aware the ages and info i was told about them being together till a certain age untrue... But since that altercatio.n Yesterday that i stopped... I think it LITERALLY SCARED THE POO OUT OF STELLA.. SINCE THAT SCARE(IF I COULD HAVE POSTED A VIDEO I WOULD HAVE BUT WAS TO AFRAID TO SCARE HER AND STOP HER FROM TAKING THWEPOO... BUT WHEN I TELL YOU SHE PUT ALL 4LEGS AND EVERY MUSCLE INTO THAT POO(ONE PROUD CHAM MOM) I THEN LET HER REST BC U COULD TELL IT TOOK EVERYTHING IN HER TO PUSH THAT OUT...

ANYWAYSSS.. I WANTED TO UPDATE EVERYONE THAT MY 1ST INTIAL FEAR OF IMPACTION BC OF THW SUPERWORMS IS NOW OVER AND ONLY IN FEAR FOR THE FERTILE CLUTCH NOW (i have piks she has since taken 2 poos sorry trying my hardest to keep up (suck and reading and writing but im never short for words..lol)please bare with me
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
well i would incubate the eggs but there is still a chance they are not fertile. although... if they are, bear in mind that chameleons retain sperm so you may have a fertile clutch or two or three in the future......... in that case you will need another cage...:ROFLMAO: but at least you'll get to have the joy of babies lol. anyways i would use some damp vermiculite or perlite. ive heard that is the best material to incubate.
 
Last edited:

Ashley85

Member
Ok so I don't understand exactly what you mean with your lighting. You will want a T5HO fixture that is the length of the enclosure going across the center of the enclosure. You will want either a 10.0 zoo med uvb bulb or a 12% arcadia uvb bulb.
Lighting is a 12 hour on 12 hour off cycle with total darkness for the 12 hours.
Why are you using so many heat bulbs?
Temps.... Your low is perfectly fine. They can do a low of 50 degrees at night. Your high of 95 is wayyyyy too hot. Right now they would both need to be at 85 for their basking temps. For the female she will always stay right below or at 85 for basking. Once your male is an adult is when we kick that up to about 90 degrees or so.
Humidity level is fine.
Misting system such as the mistking I highly recommend... They should be getting misted 3 times a day for at least 2 minutes to clean their eyes and drink.
Plants.... Ok Veiled's eat their plants. I would stick with the "safe" plants. Pothos, ficus, hibiscus, Croton, and dwarf umbrella. Just because something is on a safe plant like for another species does not mean it would be good for your Veiled because they will eat them.
Top layer of soil should be covered with 1 inch river rock to avoid them eating the soil.
Feeding.... waxworms are treats only because they are very high in fat content. So we are talking one here and there. Superworms should only be 20 percent of the total diet. So if you are feeding 10 feeders then you need to only feed 2 supers. Feeding a variety is important. And as I already said they will not eat as much when stressed, Shedding, or when your female is getting ready to lay eggs.
You need to be working them over to an every other day feeding schedule. 10-12 feeders every other day. To do this reduce by 2 feeders on the every other day each week until you are only feeding 10-12 every other day. This will need to be reduced further when they are adults as well to 7-10at most. The more you feed a female at this age the harder it will be on her with her laying because they produce larger clutches when fed too much. This drains them when they have to lay a lot of eggs. You will want to learn more on her special care moving forward.

Here is a link to lay bins https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/egg-laying-and-the-laying-bin.345/
Here is a link to their care sheet https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Here is my list of must haves for any keeper. Some of which may be of interest to you and some you may already have or I may have already covered. and images that will help you.

Cage 24x24x48 like this https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=sr_1_11?crid=750TXFPLI11X&keywords=extra+large+reptibreeze&qid=1552311072&s=gateway&sprefix=extra+large+reptibre,aps,204&sr=8-11

Drip tray you can buy for these is like a hotwater heater pan...

or you can spend more and get a better quality with drip tray for the water to collect like so in screen or clearside. The dragon ledges help attach potted plants higher in the cage. But he builds in a schedule so you have to pre order and wait to get your cham. or you can buy the drip tray from dragon strand and the ledges and get the reptibreeze cage.

https://dragonstrand.com/screen-cages-2/

FYI You may need to wrap at least the back and one side panel if not both of the cage in clear plastic like a shower curtain and attach with magnets so the water does not spray out.

Lighting for UVB and plant growth is dual or quad T5 HO fixture. You can look on lightyourreptiles.com These need to be the 24 inch fixture. UVB bulb you get will depend on the species of cham you get.

Heat lamp I would recommend a: https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=8HVMEZI2QMV3&keywords=flukers+dimmable+heat+lamp&qid=1552311478&s=gateway&sprefix=fukers+dimm,aps,208&sr=8-1

bulb for it is your preference but I am partial to zilla brand day light white: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRUU32/ref=twister_B07C8WY1XN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

May need timers for different fixtures as well. 12 hour on and off for lights on chams.

Dimming Thermostat for Heat lamp can be used with any dome light and ensures you will not bake your cham as it will keep your bulb at the exact temp you need it at basking. Please ensure that you are getting a dimming thermostat. Herpstat and Vivarium Electronics both make dimming thermostats.

https://www.joshsfrogs.com/vivarium-electronics-ve-200-thermostat.html

https://www.joshsfrogs.com/vivarium-electronics-ve-300-thermostat.html

https://www.pangeareptile.com/store...MIw4mU17-b4QIVENvACh0Y8g1MEAYYASABEgLusPD_BwE

Automatic mister a must have in my opinion. https://www.amazon.com/MistKing-22251-Starter-Misting-System/dp/B012IAK4SC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3HEHG6S2ENP0I&keywords=mistking+starter+misting+system&qid=1552311288&s=gateway&sprefix=mistking+stra,aps,206&sr=8-1

hydrometer and thermometer to measure heat and humidity you want a few to get different levels. Most use a wired thermometer at basking level then a non wired other area : https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-drt-1...reptiles&qid=1552311763&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-2

and https://www.amazon.com/Alfie-Pet-Pe...eptiles&qid=1552311838&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-18

Live plants like Pothos or dwarf umbrella plants. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/plants/

If you get a veiled you have to put large 1inch or bigger river rock in the top so they don't eat the soil. :)

Vines and branches for horizontal pathways in different sizes for grip: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Jungle-Vine-Large/dp/B003PB4VSS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=exo+terra+vines&qid=1552311902&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1&th=1

And then you need a multivitamin to give 2 times a month every other week, Calcium with D3 to give 2 times a month the opposite every other week, and then a calcium without D3 used nearly every feeding. See image below.

Feeders: Need to offer variety. See image below. can buy feeders from a site sponsor or rainbowmealworms.com

Feeder containers: I have bought my own as well as converted plastic tubs to hold them. I like these but the large size only if I buy one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073KOGOG/ref=twister_B06X9LKF3Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Feeder food: something like Repashy Bug burger, cricket crack, or insect fuel from Arcadia brand if you want a predone instead of fresh veg and fruit everyday. see image below for feeder food


View attachment 227056View attachment 227057View attachment 227058View attachment 227059View attachment 227060
Thank you so much for all UR TIME.. VERY DETAILED VERY MUCH MORE MY STYLE AND GREATFUL TO EVERYONE FOR ANY MINUTE YOU COULD SPARW TO ME
 

Ashley85

Member
well i would incubate the eggs but there is still a chance they are not fertile. although... if they are, bear in mind that chameleons retain sperm so you may have a fertile clutch or two or three in the future......... in that case you will need another cage...:ROFLMAO: but at least you'll get to have the joy of babies lol. anyways i would use some damp vermiculite or perlite. ive heard that is the best material to incubate.
THANK YOU I SO HOPE NOT BUT I WILL BE STAYED INTOUCH FOR SURE IM SO WORRIED
 

SharpShooter

Avid Member
well i would incubate the eggs but there is still a chance they are not fertile. although... if they are, bear in mind that chameleons retain sperm so you may have a fertile clutch or two or three in the future......... in that case you will need another cage...:ROFLMAO: but at least you'll get to have the joy of babies lol. anyways i would use some damp vermiculite or perlite. ive heard that is the best material to incubate.
If you're not set up or willing to set yourself up for babies, best not incubate them. Pop them in a freezer to make sure they are not viable and dispose of them.
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
If you're not set up or willing to set yourself up for babies, best not incubate them. Pop them in a freezer to make sure they are not viable and dispose of them.
that is true but its too bad that you gotta freeze them... i would just sell them off to breeders as hatchlings
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you so much for all UR TIME.. VERY DETAILED VERY MUCH MORE MY STYLE AND GREATFUL TO EVERYONE FOR ANY MINUTE YOU COULD SPARW TO ME
You have a lot of corrections you need to make and quickly times 2 plus the additional needs your female has. Just read through everything and start making corrections. Now you have the right information to go off of instead of being miss informed. It is unfortunate that you posted so late in having them. Every person on this site would have been able to tell you to separate them immediately which would have spared them the stress as well as yourself.

Another note make sure your are using a digital hydrometer to check your humidity levels. I am very familiar with Carolina Beach and the surrounding area. You are going to have higher natural humidity levels living there.

Also due to your location you need to go ahead and set up an evacuation kit for your chams. Should you get a hurricane your best bet is going to be putting them into two separate boxes that have a few small air holes, a towel in the bottom, and a branch that they can hold on to. As long as they do not get below 50 degrees and not above about 80 degrees they will be fine to remain in the dark boxes undisturbed for about 3 days or so. They will just sleep during that period. Pleasure Island, Wilmington, and Wrightsville Beach get hit almost yearly so please don't leave this until last minute.
 
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