I think my new panther chameleon is dehydrated :(

[jacobsend]

I think I need help. I just bought a panther chameleon yesterday, with the enclosure and supplies. Shortly after the man left, he defecated, half of his urate was white, half was orange, and hid feces were somewhat gooey.
His eyes are also a little bit sunken in, but not much at all. I think it is only early signs, but I really want help. I'll post pictures as soon as I can, thanks,

-Daniel

 

[beeze]

Try some extra long and very warm mistings. Also silkworms and hornworms add liquid to their body.

 

[laurie]

Daniel you need to do some quality misting. Get some water just warner than room temp and start misting your guy. Hopefully you will see him start to drink. Make sure the water is not hot or cold. Mist him for about 10 minutes several times today and see if that helps. How old is your new cham and what is his set up like?

 

[jacobsend]

Thanks guys, I've noticed him drinking A LOT! since, I'm home a lot today, I'm misting his enclosure every 10-30 minutes, and he drinks a lot. Each misting is about 1-2 minutes long. The guy I bought him from misted him 2-3 times a day I'm doing it about 5-6, I know it's not really needed to mist him that often, but I want him to get better ASAP. T think I am going to try a mistking, to help, I read that a lot of people use and are very pleased with it, and the fact that they are Canadian(as I am too) might make shipping a little bit easier. I'll check his feces and urate today, and see if it improves, thanks, please keep the tips coming,

-Daniel

 

[jacobsend]

Daniel you need to do some quality misting. Get some water just warner than room temp and start misting your guy. Hopefully you will see him start to drink. Make sure the water is not hot or cold. Mist him for about 10 minutes several times today and see if that helps. How old is your new cham and what is his set up like?

Oh, thanks for the tip. I'll mist him longer. He is about 1 year old, but not exactly sure, as the guy I bought him from wasn't too sure either, but it makes sense as he's only about 6 inches from snout to vent. His setup has several live plants, vines, branches, and fake plants that drip water very well. His enclosure is a 38 gallon flexarium, big enough for him now he has a lot of places to limb and move around, but I want o upgrade to a 24"x24"x48" aluminum screen cage from lll reptile, is this ok, I wont buy it for a few months, just wondering.

 

[Texas Panther Man]

Hes prob not a year old yet if hes 6" sn to vent. Cause my 4month old is about 5" stv.

 

[jacobsend]

Hes prob not a year old yet if hes 6" sn to vent. Cause my 4month old is about 5" stv.

Nope, he is. He's about a year.

 

[SpinyFranky]

If he the one pictured in your avatar?

If yes that animal is at least 8 months old, based off coloration.

24x24x48 screen cage would be just fine.

A thing about the poop, depending on metabolism and consumption rates, what you see him poop out is usually not the perfect indicator of health or hydration.

Many adult chameleons can go as long as a week without pooping, at which point the poop naturally dries slightly within them and takes on an orange tint.

Deep orange feces is a clear indicator of previous dehydration, however a slight orange tint or tip to the feces is usually fine.

For in the moment diagnosis, the best indicator are the eyes. They should appear full and very round, with little wrinkling. Some wrinkling is normal and just fine, but if it appears that he has the "grandma wrinkles" which appear to be large and flabby, then dehydration is an issue.

Misting 5-6 times a day for 1-2 minutes is fine, as it 3 times a day for 5-10. Just base it off of whats best for your schedule.

If no one is home during the day that you can trust to remember to mist and mist well, then a mister is an appropriate solution.

Currently if the eyes are sunken in, the best solution rather than pestering him around multiple times a day ( remember he is still acclimating to a new house hold which means new noises, new faces, new temperatures, and new day/night cycles due to evening habits ) I would suggest taking a small - medium potted plant to your shower. Rinse the plant well for about 2 minutes to wipe any debris or chemicals off of the plant. Get the water temperature to where it is barely warm to the touch. Place your chameleon in the shower and on the plant and just leave the water on for about 5-10 minutes.

This stimulates the chameleon to drink as it will believe it is raining, you are not there to pester, so he feels much more comfortable, and he will probably drink a good deal of water, which gets him back on his feet very quickly.

 

[jacobsend]

If he the one pictured in your avatar?

If yes that animal is at least 8 months old, based off coloration.

24x24x48 screen cage would be just fine.

A thing about the poop, depending on metabolism and consumption rates, what you see him poop out is usually not the perfect indicator of health or hydration.

Many adult chameleons can go as long as a week without pooping, at which point the poop naturally dries slightly within them and takes on an orange tint.

Deep orange feces is a clear indicator of previous dehydration, however a slight orange tint or tip to the feces is usually fine.

For in the moment diagnosis, the best indicator are the eyes. They should appear full and very round, with little wrinkling. Some wrinkling is normal and just fine, but if it appears that he has the "grandma wrinkles" which appear to be large and flabby, then dehydration is an issue.

Misting 5-6 times a day for 1-2 minutes is fine, as it 3 times a day for 5-10. Just base it off of whats best for your schedule.

If no one is home during the day that you can trust to remember to mist and mist well, then a mister is an appropriate solution.

Currently if the eyes are sunken in, the best solution rather than pestering him around multiple times a day ( remember he is still acclimating to a new house hold which means new noises, new faces, new temperatures, and new day/night cycles due to evening habits ) I would suggest taking a small - medium potted plant to your shower. Rinse the plant well for about 2 minutes to wipe any debris or chemicals off of the plant. Get the water temperature to where it is barely warm to the touch. Place your chameleon in the shower and on the plant and just leave the water on for about 5-10 minutes.

This stimulates the chameleon to drink as it will believe it is raining, you are not there to pester, so he feels much more comfortable, and he will probably drink a good deal of water, which gets him back on his feet very quickly.

Thanks you so much! I think the eyes are fine, they have a few little wrinkles on them. And yes, the picture for my avatar is my chameleon, about a year old. He is slightly bigger now. I've noticed him drinking a lot too! It's mainly the feces and urate that concerns me. I offered him today, but he didn't eat it also? He ate yesterday. Could it be from stress in a new environment?

 

[SpinyFranky]

Rule of thumb for new chameleons is 3 days no eating is the norm in many cases. Essentially this is the adjustment period, where they are still recuperating from the trip and learning about their new home, so eating does not happen very much.

All chams are different, my female panther arrived from washington and ate one hour later. My Sambava arrived from Pomona and did not eat for five days. My eldest Sambava also arrived from Washington and ate two days later, as you can see it is all very random and specific to each individual chameleon.

However, as long as the chameleon was well nourished before its journey, then usually they can last up to a week with no food with little to no health concerns.

Try a variety of food : Crickets, Super Worms, Horn Worms, Silk Worms, Roaches - most of which are commonly available on the internet for inexpensive prices. Just make sure to Gutload properly using ( minus silkies and horn worms which have dedicated diet requirements - see hornworm and silk worm chow ) a multitude of dark and leafy greens - romaine and mustards, even endives are great. you should also include Carrots, Potato ( limited ), sprouts, honey, oranges, apple.

Be aware that these need not be just for the chameleons, all gutloads are integral parts of human diets as well. Many people make the mistake of for say buying carrots just for the crickets. In reality it is much for effective to buy carrots for your family - and after washing the carrot, it is usually peeled. Those peelings are usually thrown out, however they are perfect for your feeders.

The same applies to the end of your lettuce heads. Even left overs are suitable, as long as nothing pervaded it, such as salad dressing or sauces.

When it comes down to that method, feeding your feeders can remain relatively inexpensive.

 

[kinyonga]

Can you post a picture of the chameleon please?

 

[jacobsend]

Rule of thumb for new chameleons is 3 days no eating is the norm in many cases. Essentially this is the adjustment period, where they are still recuperating from the trip and learning about their new home, so eating does not happen very much.

All chams are different, my female panther arrived from washington and ate one hour later. My Sambava arrived from Pomona and did not eat for five days. My eldest Sambava also arrived from Washington and ate two days later, as you can see it is all very random and specific to each individual chameleon.

However, as long as the chameleon was well nourished before its journey, then usually they can last up to a week with no food with little to no health concerns.

Try a variety of food : Crickets, Super Worms, Horn Worms, Silk Worms, Roaches - most of which are commonly available on the internet for inexpensive prices. Just make sure to Gutload properly using ( minus silkies and horn worms which have dedicated diet requirements - see hornworm and silk worm chow ) a multitude of dark and leafy greens - romaine and mustards, even endives are great. you should also include Carrots, Potato ( limited ), sprouts, honey, oranges, apple.

Be aware that these need not be just for the chameleons, all gutloads are integral parts of human diets as well. Many people make the mistake of for say buying carrots just for the crickets. In reality it is much for effective to buy carrots for your family - and after washing the carrot, it is usually peeled. Those peelings are usually thrown out, however they are perfect for your feeders.

The same applies to the end of your lettuce heads. Even left overs are suitable, as long as nothing pervaded it, such as salad dressing or sauces.

When it comes down to that method, feeding your feeders can remain relatively inexpensive.

Thanks Spiny Franky! I've been gutloading all my animals as long as I'd had them. I use vegetables, and the commercial stuff, which I don't like that much. Right now I only have superworms and crickets.

 

[shanetyler81]

I think my Graceful Chameleon is dehydrated

I think my Graceful Chameleon is dehydrated. I was at work and my husband didnt turn on the mister and or give her water. She is fine now to a certain extent! Her tongue has not extended out as much as it has in the past. What can i do? ( the day i came home an seen she was dehydrated i gave her a shower, i am giving her vitamins. One would think that the oils in that stuff would help to lubricate her tongue) Any suggestions!?? Please Help!!!! : confused: