Humidity just not right....
- Thread starter Pepito2011
- Start date
Pepito2011
New Member
flooring?
So you never answered me what do you suggest to use for the floor i would really like to know so i can get these wood chips out tomarow and run to the store to get something different!!!
So you never answered me what do you suggest to use for the floor i would really like to know so i can get these wood chips out tomarow and run to the store to get something different!!!
Pepito2011
New Member
ignore last post i must have sent it as you did lol. i dont know if its male or female i have been just calling it a boy, his name is pepito not mine lol.
Pepito2011
New Member
how do you tell the sex??
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
on the back of the back of his feet(right between where the toes fork) there are these little spikes called tarsal spurs if it is a male. If not female.!!!! here is a thread with some pics for you. https://www.chameleonforums.com/tarsal-spur-49848/
Welcome to the world of chameleons!
I have been keeping/breeding/hatching chameleons and other reptiles for over 25 years. My veiled females generally live to be over 6 years of age and often older. The males also live longer than that. I live in Ontario so my climate is somewhat like yours. This is what I do...
Hatchling veileds I start off like this....
http://chameleonnews.com/02NovHorgan.html
By the time they are 3 or 4 months old they are in cages (one per cage) that are 18" x 18" x 24".They usually have screen lids and some have screen doors or else they have vents in the front. I have kept some in all glass cages that have screen lids too...and as long as the lights are placed correctly and there is no water allowed to lay stagnant on the floor of the cage its fine.
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon. As you can see in the pictures in the site above, the cages are lit/heated by a double fluorescent tube setup. I use one regular white household fluorescent tube in the fixture along with one Repti-sun 5.0. I slide the cages forward when they have chameleons in so that one end is warmer than the other. Once they are in the 18" x 18" x 24" cages the lights run across the back half of the cage. (I don't use the plant light fixtures...just regular 4' fixtures that I buy at places like Home Depot, Canadian Tire, etc. that hold two tubes.) If the cage is still too cool I add (in one corner, next to the fluorescent fixture) a regular incandescent household light in a domed fixture. The wattage is whatever is needed to make the basking temperature correct. (For male veileds over 5 months of age, mid to high 80's or even into the low 90'sF.)
You can "decorate" the cage with an assortment of vines, branches and greenery...live non-toxic greenery that has been well-washed, both sides of the leaves is recommended, especially for veileds since they can/do eat vegetation as well as insects.
As long as the veileds are well-watered, its not critical to have high humidity. I definitely wouldn't have it humid enough to make a mist on the sides of he cage. IMHO that's asking for health issues. I mist the baby cages a couple of times a day. I don't use a dripper until they are a couple of months old...babies can aspirate large drops of water into their lungs and die from it.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and the age and sex of the species.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. (I use herptivite). PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.) BTW..veileds can eat/be offered all of these greens and veggies and even a small amount of fruit (apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.).
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/20060114031124/http://www.adcham.com/
I have been keeping/breeding/hatching chameleons and other reptiles for over 25 years. My veiled females generally live to be over 6 years of age and often older. The males also live longer than that. I live in Ontario so my climate is somewhat like yours. This is what I do...
Hatchling veileds I start off like this....
http://chameleonnews.com/02NovHorgan.html
By the time they are 3 or 4 months old they are in cages (one per cage) that are 18" x 18" x 24".They usually have screen lids and some have screen doors or else they have vents in the front. I have kept some in all glass cages that have screen lids too...and as long as the lights are placed correctly and there is no water allowed to lay stagnant on the floor of the cage its fine.
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon. As you can see in the pictures in the site above, the cages are lit/heated by a double fluorescent tube setup. I use one regular white household fluorescent tube in the fixture along with one Repti-sun 5.0. I slide the cages forward when they have chameleons in so that one end is warmer than the other. Once they are in the 18" x 18" x 24" cages the lights run across the back half of the cage. (I don't use the plant light fixtures...just regular 4' fixtures that I buy at places like Home Depot, Canadian Tire, etc. that hold two tubes.) If the cage is still too cool I add (in one corner, next to the fluorescent fixture) a regular incandescent household light in a domed fixture. The wattage is whatever is needed to make the basking temperature correct. (For male veileds over 5 months of age, mid to high 80's or even into the low 90'sF.)
You can "decorate" the cage with an assortment of vines, branches and greenery...live non-toxic greenery that has been well-washed, both sides of the leaves is recommended, especially for veileds since they can/do eat vegetation as well as insects.
As long as the veileds are well-watered, its not critical to have high humidity. I definitely wouldn't have it humid enough to make a mist on the sides of he cage. IMHO that's asking for health issues. I mist the baby cages a couple of times a day. I don't use a dripper until they are a couple of months old...babies can aspirate large drops of water into their lungs and die from it.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and the age and sex of the species.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. (I use herptivite). PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.) BTW..veileds can eat/be offered all of these greens and veggies and even a small amount of fruit (apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.).
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/20060114031124/http://www.adcham.com/
Last edited:
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
In general terms, the "5.0" is a measurement of the intensity of the UV radiation. 2.0 is probably not enough for a day active basking lizard like a veiled. A 2.0 might be OK for some other herps that avoid intense sun.
The linear (as opposed to compact or coiled bulb) fluorescent tube ReptiSun 5.0 is a hobby standard that most of us have used for years. Change the bulb every 6 months as the UV production drops off after that amount of daily use. Most of the other "full spectrum" incandescent basking bulbs sold by pet stores do NOT produce the specific part of the UV spectrum the chams need. They produce heat, but not reliable UV. You can save yourself some $ by using a regular house light bulb for heat...no need to use a fancy basking bulb. The UV bulb is essential to calcium/phosphorus vit D3 metabolism however.
Pepito2011
New Member
Thanks another ?
omg thanks for all the help!! and BTW he is a boy just like i assumed!! yay for spurs lol. Humidity is up to around 65 now! and no fog! this is great! but now i am just concerned on his eating, he tends to stay to the top of the tank and i drop the crickets near the top by him but most fall and hang out on the floor his first feeding today i gave him approx 10 and he ate only like 2-3 (that i saw) but there is still plenty on the floor of the terranium why is this??
omg thanks for all the help!! and BTW he is a boy just like i assumed!! yay for spurs lol. Humidity is up to around 65 now! and no fog! this is great! but now i am just concerned on his eating, he tends to stay to the top of the tank and i drop the crickets near the top by him but most fall and hang out on the floor his first feeding today i gave him approx 10 and he ate only like 2-3 (that i saw) but there is still plenty on the floor of the terranium why is this??
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
you got your temp lowered right? See if you have a screen enclosure you dont have that worry cause as soon as you drop the crickets in on the bottom they head for the top up the sides of the screen for easy pickings! Does you chameleon have easy access all the way down to the bottom of the enclosure? Like a vertical branch or something. Maybe he cannot reach them. You can always use a cup and put the crickets in there. Alot of people cup feed as a way to keep track how much thier chams are eating. Don't forget too you just got him and sometimes it can take weeks for them to adjust.
Pepito2011
New Member
cup feed?
idk if the cup would work he runs when i take the cricket tube and knock them out next to him. he has eaten some and has total access to the floor i picked him up and set him on the floor by the crickets and he ate one and headed to the top again. some of the crickets have ventured to the top but i am just worried he isnt getting enough.
idk if the cup would work he runs when i take the cricket tube and knock them out next to him. he has eaten some and has total access to the floor i picked him up and set him on the floor by the crickets and he ate one and headed to the top again. some of the crickets have ventured to the top but i am just worried he isnt getting enough.
