Hi!

My veilds have definately been meaner than my panthers. if you can find them, CB jacksons are awesome for beginners!

for heating we use ceramic heat emitters NO HIGHER THAN 40 WTT! chams can burn themselves on higher wattage heat! drippers work great for water, live plants help with maintaining humidity, and a heatsource on one side of the cage provides a gradient temp through out, so he can go to one side and warm up and go to the otherside to cool down.

definatelty set up a good relationship w/ your local reptile shop, as you may need them from time to time and keep in mind what they carry, incase you have an emergency. We have some great sponsers that provide quality animals and supplies, as well as awesome members full of knowlege!
Good Luck!
 
My veilds have definately been meaner than my panthers. if you can find them, CB jacksons are awesome for beginners!

for heating we use ceramic heat emitters NO HIGHER THAN 40 WTT! chams can burn themselves on higher wattage heat! drippers work great for water, live plants help with maintaining humidity, and a heatsource on one side of the cage provides a gradient temp through out, so he can go to one side and warm up and go to the otherside to cool down.

definatelty set up a good relationship w/ your local reptile shop, as you may need them from time to time and keep in mind what they carry, incase you have an emergency. We have some great sponsers that provide quality animals and supplies, as well as awesome members full of knowlege!
Good Luck!

oh thankyou! the CB jacksons are definitly nice! how much do they usually cost though?
and okay ill check them out!
 
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
you can order in online or at most pet stores. i would concider ordering the repashy foods calcium plus all in one suppliment. you just use is at every feeding and dont have to mess around. they are a site sponsor as well.
 
I also saw a panther who had been badly taken care of, and "saved" by someone else.

It was very agressive. Getting in "combat mode" as soon as your hand was closer than 50cm...

Then for veiled I guess it s a question of characters. Panthers are supposed to be generaly less agressive.

Captive Born, used to human since begining should make the least problems.
 
Hello to the cham world. You will find plenty of information here regarding your interest in chams. Do the research and you'll find your answer to all your questions. Have a great day. :cool:
 
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