Hey!! I'm new here!! (Long post)

Carlson8607

Member
Hey everyone, my name is Carlson and I live in Brunswick Ga. In a junior in college. I came to this website because I recently got my first veiled chameleon last Saturday and I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right. Make no mistake, I've been wanting a chameleon for a long time! And I have been waiting/doing HW on chameleons for over half a year. I got a forty breeder a few weeks ago, built a stand, and got everything I needed. Then, I just had to wait until I moved this past weekend. I bought my veiled from PetSmart vecabec they were having a sell ($50) and they have a healthy juvenile veiled which is exactly what I was waiting for. Now, I'm done with the boring background part. The tank is 40 gallons. I know that it isn't ideal for it to be horizontal vs vertical bc they like to climb but so far he seems to be doing great. Also, I know some prefer screen over glass for airflow, but my fogger uses a pretty powerful fan to push new air into the tank Everytime it cuts on. The fogger I have cuts on 13 times over a 24 hour day and runs for thirty minutes each time (too much?) I have an incandescent bulb for basking, and three uvb bulbs, not all the same wattage. I haven't gotten an automatic misting system yet but I am planning on getting a repti rain asap, partly because I don't want the chameleon to associate me with misiting the tank down, but rn, I'm misting the tank down manually around 10 times a day. There are always some visable water drops on the leaves. As for substrate, my research led me to believe that paper towels were pretty much the best way to go, so I went with them because I also use them for my leopard gecko. I know this is getting boring but don't worry I'm going to post lots of pictures. As far as the chameleon goes, he is doing great. I have cup fed him a couple times but I heard that it is good to let young chams catch food on their own for exercise, which he also does well. Today, he also started to take crickets out of my hand! Rn he is eating around ten medium-large crickets a day, pretty much whenever he is hungry. The crickets are eating flukers cricket cubes as well as bananas and other fruits and veggies. They are drinking water from a gel high in calcium. I dust about half of the crickets in phosphorus free calcium and I also have calcium with vit d3 to give him twice a month. I have a temperature probe in the middle of the tank and it stays around 72-78 degrees getting closer to 90 under the basking lamp. The lights cut on at 8:30 am and off at 8:30 pm. The lights and fogger are both on timers. Please let me know anything that I may be doing wrong! I also remove any poop that i see when I see it.
 
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Also, I have a pretty strong feeling that it's a male partially bc of the lump that it has before it's tale, what do you all think?
 
You would have to try hard to get more husbandry wrong than what you did here. I'm not trying to be a dick, but you have a lot of constructive criticism coming your way...

I got a forty breeder a few weeks ago
Aquariums are the worst enclosure to keep a cham in, if you did your homework you should know this. Chams are arboreal animals and to them height = security. I promise he will not be "doing great" for very long if you don't move him into a proper viv.

fogger uses a pretty powerful fan to push new air into the tank Every time it cuts on. The fogger I have cuts on 13 times over a 24 hour day and runs for thirty minutes each time (too much?)
A fogger will not give you enough airflow ESPECIALLY in an aquarium. 13 30min sessions a day? WAY too much, your cham will have a upper respitory infection by the end of the month. Foggers should only be used to increase the humidity levels in a viv, not for air circulation.

I'm misting the tank down manually around 10 times a day
Reduce the total number of daily mistings to 4 and extend the duration of each session to 5mins. Chams need longer duration sessions so they have time to both drink and clean their eyes.

There are always some visable water drops on the leaves.
This is the exact opposite of what you should be doing. You have to give your viv time to completely dry out between sessions. Failure to do so will promote the growth of mold and land your cham in the Vet ER with another respitory infection.

The crickets are eating flukers cricket cubes
Ditch the cubes they are worthless. I recommend cricket crack as a gutload. Same goes for the water crystals, they should be getting all their moisture from greens.

I dust about half of the crickets in phosphorus free calcium
ALL his feeders should be dusted in calcium, not half.

There is nowhere near enough plants or branches in that tank, it should be full.

If you post a picture of the back of its rear feet, the heal, we can determine the sex.
 
I agree with the above comment. Your research led you in the wrong direction. Petsmart doesn’t sell healthy animals. You can make all the changes, and hopefully all will be well, but pretty much everything needs to change. Please refer to the care sheets on this forum, and listen to all the episodes of The Chameleon Breeder podcast that refer to veiled chameleons. Do these things now, and make changes ASAP! If you can make the changes, your chameleon will live a long, healthy life. If you continue on your current husbandry path, this chameleon will not last long.
 
Wow, well I wish I had come here in the first place instead of seeing other web pages or YouTube videos. I'm warming up the sprayer in a hot water bath rn so the water will be warm when I must him down for five minutes. I had no clue they needed it for that long. Is there any way I can use a computer fan, or my own fan in my room to increase circulation enough for the tank it's in rn? I wanted to go with glass in order for the tank to hold it's temperature better.
 
Wow, well I wish I had come here in the first place instead of seeing other web pages or YouTube videos. I'm warming up the sprayer in a hot water bath rn so the water will be warm when I must him down for five minutes. I had no clue they needed it for that long. Is there any way I can use a computer fan, or my own fan in my room to increase circulation enough for the tank it's in rn? I wanted to go with glass in order for the tank to hold it's temperature better.
Glad to hear that you are taking this advice so well, some people can’t take it. Yes, this forum is the place to be for husbandry!

I actually use the computer fans in my large viv, it will help but not replace the need to upgrade to a real viv ASAP. Screen vivs will hold the temp better than you’d expect.

Do not heat up the water in your spray bottle to more than 90 degrees. Keep in mind chams are cold blooded so what feels warm to you and me feels very hot to them.
 
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Glad to hear that you are taking this advice so well, some people can’t take it. Yes, this forum is the place to be for husbandry!

I actually use the computer fans in my large viv, it will help but not replace the need to upgrade to a real viv ASAP. Screen vivs will hold the temp better than you’d expect.

Do not heat up the water in your spray bottle to more than 90 degrees. Keep in mind chams are cold blooded so what feels warm to you and me feels very hot to them.
Of course! I want to have the healthiest chameleon possible. I'll get a screen enclosure as soon as I can and put a lot more plants in it. Thanks for the advice!
 
Glass enclosures are fine, aquariums are not. Many people use glass including myself. We are using the Exo Terra cages. They have screen tops, and air vents in the front near the bottom. These cages work great, especially when utilizing bioactive substrate, I just wish they made them larger.
 
I bought an exo terra monsoon misting system. Rn I have it set to turn on every four hours for 120 seconds. I'm also not using the fogger anymore until the hydrometer says it is too low. I also added some more vines/brush
 
Proper misting will be enough to keep the humidity where it needs to be unless you live in a really dry location. Most of the time a humidifier is not going to be needed. Key thing is to let the enclosure dry out in-between misting.

Once you get a screen enclosure, you can wrap one or two sides with plastic or even shower curtain to help retain humidity. Something we always recommend is lots of live plants. They hold water droplets better than plastic plants and also retain humidity a lot better.

Definitely follow the caresheet linked above and the advice the others provided. They wont steer you wrong!

Good luck
 
Here's an update of how things are going just in case anyone cares, i haven't moved him into a different tank yet but I'm building a screen cage that's the same length and width as a 40 breeder so it will fit my stand, but taller. I've gotten three live plants which he loves, and I'm dusting all if his crickets with calcium now. I also want to mention that I did rinse off all if the original dirt in the plants and then I potted them using organic soil without any chemicals, then i covered up the dirt with rocks, which i also rinsed!
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Can I just commend you @Carlson8607 for how well you took the feedback and how quick you were to make changes! Great job. I do have one question, what are the 3 different UVB lights you have? This is another area of care that is critical to have the right amount on- too little UVB= Metabolic Bone Disease, and too much and your chameleon can burn.
 
Can I just commend you @Carlson8607 for how well you took the feedback and how quick you were to make changes! Great job. I do have one question, what are the 3 different UVB lights you have? This is another area of care that is critical to have the right amount on- too little UVB= Metabolic Bone Disease, and too much and your chameleon can burn.
Thank you!!! I actually changed my lighting a bit yesterday. I added one brand new 5.0 UVB bulb, and took out one of the old ones. I left in one bulb that is too old to still give off UVB to help light up the tank. Someone at a specialty pet store told me a 5.0 would be enough and i'm also giving D3 twice a month. I want to say the basking bulb i have is somewhere around 75-100 watts.
 
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