HELPP!! DOES SHE LOOK OKAY???

[jbrownn]

Helpp!! I just got Millie last weekend and the first few days she was moving around exploring her new enclosure I set up. But now she doesn’t move much! She seems to keep one eye closed (can’t tell if it’s shut all the way or just squinting). Her skin looks very dry and cracked like (but i seen this may be normal). And today I noticed it’s a little white around the tip of her nose. I’m new to reptile life and need some help!! I’m struggling with keeping the humidity up as well with the screened enclosure. Any suggestions?? I’ll attach pictures of her. Let me know if she looks normal or not! Thank you!!

 

[jbrownn]

Helpp!! I just got Millie last weekend and the first few days she was moving around exploring her new enclosure I set up. But now she doesn’t move much! She seems to keep one eye closed (can’t tell if it’s shut all the way or just squinting). Her skin looks very dry and cracked like (but i seen this may be normal). And today I noticed it’s a little white around the tip of her nose. I’m new to reptile life and need some help!! I’m struggling with keeping the humidity up as well with the screened enclosure. Any suggestions?? I’ll attach pictures of her. Let me know if she looks normal or not! Thank you!!

These pictures are all taken same day!

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome! Millie is a little cutie. We’d love to make sure you have everything as perfect as can be for her and help you find what may be the problem. We’ll need a bit of info from you though to do that. If you could answer these questions (copy/paste with your answers) and include more pics of her entire enclosure, including lights, someone will be more than happy to help.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[jbrownn]

Helpp!! I just got Millie last weekend and the first few days she was moving around exploring her new enclosure I set up. But now she doesn’t move much! She seems to keep one eye closed (can’t tell if it’s shut all the way or just squinting). Her skin looks very dry and cracked like (but i seen this may be normal). And today I noticed it’s a little white around the tip of her nose. I’m new to reptile life and need some help!! I’m struggling with keeping the humidity up as well with the screened enclosure. Any suggestions?? I’ll attach pictures of her. Let me know if she looks normal or not! Thank you!!

• Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Estimated to be about 1-2 months she’s very small. I’ve had her for a week.
• Handling - I have not yet handled her as they told me to allow 2 weeks for her to get settled in her new home.
• Feeding - Feeding her gutloaded crickets purchased from Josh Frogs. Typically around 3-4 pm.
• Supplements - Reptivite and Repticalcium (i’ve only used this with 3 feeding since i’ve had her)
• Watering - I have a mister bottle that i’ve been using quite frequently as it seems sooo dry. I’ve been misting nearly 3-4 times a day. I’ve seen her drink maybe twice.
• Fecal Description - I’ve only seen two different dropping. Both includes the white part but one seemed slightly yellow.
• History - No additional history

• Cage Info:
• Cage Type - ReptiBreeze Chameleon starter kit enclosure
• Lighting - Tropical UVB & heat lighting by Zoomed. Lights are on 8am-8pm
• Temperature - 82 degrees in basking spot. Lowest overnight temp: 62.
• Humidity - Humidity: 46% during day but drops quickly if not misted often.
• Plants - Golden Plothos
• Placement - Located in family living area on high top counter
• Location - Central Illinois

 

[MissSkittles]

Ok. Give me a little bit and I’ll go thru it and have some feedback for you.

 

[MissSkittles]

You do have some important changes to make. Unfortunately, like many, you’ve fallen victim to the chameleon kit. But…you’re here quickly after noticing a change in your little one and that will make all the difference for you both.

• Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Estimated to be about 1-2 months she’s very small. I’ve had her for a week. I’m not that great at guessing age, but I would say she’s maybe 2-3 months old. Are you sure she’s a she? Does she have some nubs sticking out from the backs of her back feet? If so, those are tarsal spurs and only males have them. Some females may have tiny little bumps, but spurs are rather pronounced.
• Handling - I have not yet handled her as they told me to allow 2 weeks for her to get settled in her new home. Excellent advice!
• Feeding - Feeding her gutloaded crickets purchased from Josh Frogs. Typically around 3-4 pm. For her young age she should be getting at least 15-20 appropriately sized feeders, twice daily. Anything larger than the space between her eyes, is too big for her to eat. Around 3-4 months old, we start cutting back to once daily feeding and from there, cutting back on the amount. By the time she’s around 5-6 months old she should be getting fed 5-7 feeders. Variety of feeders is best. It’s very important to feed your feeders well and keep them healthy so they are more nutritious. Attaching graphics for you.
• Supplements - Reptivite and Repticalcium (i’ve only used this with 3 feeding since i’ve had her) I believe the ReptiVite that comes with the cham kit has vitamin D3 in it. This is a great combo of multivitamin and D3 (is the one I use) and you’ll want to use it for one feeding, every other week. The Repticalcium should not have D3, and you’ll want to lightly dust with this daily/every feeding (except the Reptivite one).
• Watering - I have a mister bottle that i’ve been using quite frequently as it seems sooo dry. I’ve been misting nearly 3-4 times a day. I’ve seen her drink maybe twice. Veileds ideal humidity range is between 30-50%, which is much drier than we tend to think. It’s ok and actually desired for the enclosure to dry out completely between misting. It’s best to mist for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day…before lights go on/off and it’s optional at mid day.
• Fecal Description - I’ve only seen two different dropping. Both includes the white part but one seemed slightly yellow. It’s always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness visit with a fresh fecal check for parasites, especially with pet store animals.
• History - No additional history

• Cage Info:
• Cage Type - ReptiBreeze Chameleon starter kit enclosure This size is ok for now, but veileds grow super quick and in a few short months she’ll be needing a much bigger space. A 2x2x4’ enclosure is the minimum standard.
• Lighting - Tropical UVB & heat lighting by Zoomed. Lights are on 8am-8pm Schedule is great, your uvb is not. One of the biggest problems with the cham kit is the uvb is inadequate at any distance greater than 2-3” away. If you have it set up so your cham can get that close, then you are risking burns from the basking light. The standard uvb is a T5HO fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% linear uvb bulb. Then for ideal uvb levels your basking area should be about 8-9” down from the light. Since little ones love to walk along their screen tops, they are at high risk for getting burns so it’s best to elevate all lights off the screen by at least a few inches. There is a seller of ReptiRisers on Etsy or you can come up with your own solution. I use wire baskets from the dollar store.
• Temperature - 82 degrees in basking spot. Not bad, but we try to keep our little ones and ladies no higher than 80. Lowest overnight temp: 62. Perfect night time drop!
• Humidity - Humidity: 46% during day but drops quickly if not misted often. There are better ways to maintain humidity. You can wrap the back and 1 or both sides in a shower curtain or window insulation film. Adding lots of live plants does wonders for humidity.
• Plants - Golden Plothos Great! Pothos is one of a cham keepers staples. Philodendron is very similar and can be used as well. Both of these will do fine without special lighting. However, I would suggest adding a tall centerpiece plant such as schefflera, money tree or weeping fig and then have other plants around it. You want to create lots of shaded areas and hiding spots for your cham. You also want lots of branches/vines for your little sweetie to travel on. You can use natural branches from outside…avoid pine and other sappy trees. Give a good wash with some dish soap and a really thorough rinse with a hose and they’re good to go.
• Placement - Located in family living area on high top counter Keep in mind that they see humans as potential predators and too much human activity can stress them. Adding lots of hiding places deep in some plants will help. Also, the higher they are, the safer they’ll feel.
• Location - Central Illinois

Some things that come with the cham kit are useless for chams. The Repti carpet is nothing but a bacteria magnet. Keep the floor bare…much easier to keep clean. I think it comes with a feeding dish too…another useless thing. Chameleons rarely go down to the ground, so place your feeding station in one place up where it can easily be seen from basking area. You can use a short deli cup, hanging bird feeder dish or one of the several different types of feeders available. Some like this type https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/feedercups I like this one https://tkchameleons.com/
To be continued…

 

[MissSkittles]

Ok, now to your original concern. I don’t see anything of concern in your pics of Millie. The dry flaking skin and white spot sound like the beginning of shedding. Little ones shed pretty often and quite quickly. Sometimes you may not even know it has happened if you don’t see the shed skin pieces in the enclosure. Chameleons are dry shedders and usually if your husbandry is good, they won’t have any shedding problems.
Having one or both eyes closed when it’s daytime is a concern as it’s often the first sign of a problem that we see. Getting everything corrected quickly, especially lights, feeding amounts and supplements should perk her up. Usually chameleons shouldn’t be sold until at least 3 months old as the younger they are, the less tolerant they are to husbandry error.
Now, even though Millie is still just a baby, she will grow super fast and by the time she’s around 5-6 months old she can start producing and laying eggs. She doesn’t need to even see a male for this to happen…it just does…like chickens. Because of this, it’s more important than ever to have correct husbandry to prevent laying problems. I’ll spare you (for now) my laying 101 ‘talk’. I just wanted to make sure you’re aware that she’ll lay eggs.
There are a few trusted and wonderful sources for lots more info on keeping chameleons. This is the best place for tons of info. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Neptune the chameleon on YouTube is also fantastic and has an ever growing library of videos. Of course, the forum is the best place to ask questions, seek guidance and share the beauty and awesomeness of your sweet little girl. I’m so very glad that you found your way here.

 

[jbrownn]

You do have some important changes to make. Unfortunately, like many, you’ve fallen victim to the chameleon kit. But…you’re here quickly after noticing a change in your little one and that will make all the difference for you both.

• Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Estimated to be about 1-2 months she’s very small. I’ve had her for a week. I’m not that great at guessing age, but I would say she’s maybe 2-3 months old. Are you sure she’s a she? Does she have some nubs sticking out from the backs of her back feet? If so, those are tarsal spurs and only males have them. Some females may have tiny little bumps, but spurs are rather pronounced.
• Handling - I have not yet handled her as they told me to allow 2 weeks for her to get settled in her new home. Excellent advice!
• Feeding - Feeding her gutloaded crickets purchased from Josh Frogs. Typically around 3-4 pm. For her young age she should be getting at least 15-20 appropriately sized feeders, twice daily. Anything larger than the space between her eyes, is too big for her to eat. Around 3-4 months old, we start cutting back to once daily feeding and from there, cutting back on the amount. By the time she’s around 5-6 months old she should be getting fed 5-7 feeders. Variety of feeders is best. It’s very important to feed your feeders well and keep them healthy so they are more nutritious. Attaching graphics for you.
• Supplements - Reptivite and Repticalcium (i’ve only used this with 3 feeding since i’ve had her) I believe the ReptiVite that comes with the cham kit has vitamin D3 in it. This is a great combo of multivitamin and D3 (is the one I use) and you’ll want to use it for one feeding, every other week. The Repticalcium should not have D3, and you’ll want to lightly dust with this daily/every feeding (except the Reptivite one).
• Watering - I have a mister bottle that i’ve been using quite frequently as it seems sooo dry. I’ve been misting nearly 3-4 times a day. I’ve seen her drink maybe twice. Veileds ideal humidity range is between 30-50%, which is much drier than we tend to think. It’s ok and actually desired for the enclosure to dry out completely between misting. It’s best to mist for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day…before lights go on/off and it’s optional at mid day.
• Fecal Description - I’ve only seen two different dropping. Both includes the white part but one seemed slightly yellow. It’s always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness visit with a fresh fecal check for parasites, especially with pet store animals.
• History - No additional history

• Cage Info:
• Cage Type - ReptiBreeze Chameleon starter kit enclosure This size is ok for now, but veileds grow super quick and in a few short months she’ll be needing a much bigger space. A 2x2x4’ enclosure is the minimum standard.
• Lighting - Tropical UVB & heat lighting by Zoomed. Lights are on 8am-8pm Schedule is great, your uvb is not. One of the biggest problems with the cham kit is the uvb is inadequate at any distance greater than 2-3” away. If you have it set up so your cham can get that close, then you are risking burns from the basking light. The standard uvb is a T5HO fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% linear uvb bulb. Then for ideal uvb levels your basking area should be about 8-9” down from the light. Since little ones love to walk along their screen tops, they are at high risk for getting burns so it’s best to elevate all lights off the screen by at least a few inches. There is a seller of ReptiRisers on Etsy or you can come up with your own solution. I use wire baskets from the dollar store.
• Temperature - 82 degrees in basking spot. Not bad, but we try to keep our little ones and ladies no higher than 80. Lowest overnight temp: 62. Perfect night time drop!
• Humidity - Humidity: 46% during day but drops quickly if not misted often. There are better ways to maintain humidity. You can wrap the back and 1 or both sides in a shower curtain or window insulation film. Adding lots of live plants does wonders for humidity.
• Plants - Golden Plothos Great! Pothos is one of a cham keepers staples. Philodendron is very similar and can be used as well. Both of these will do fine without special lighting. However, I would suggest adding a tall centerpiece plant such as schefflera, money tree or weeping fig and then have other plants around it. You want to create lots of shaded areas and hiding spots for your cham. You also want lots of branches/vines for your little sweetie to travel on. You can use natural branches from outside…avoid pine and other sappy trees. Give a good wash with some dish soap and a really thorough rinse with a hose and they’re good to go.
• Placement - Located in family living area on high top counter Keep in mind that they see humans as potential predators and too much human activity can stress them. Adding lots of hiding places deep in some plants will help. Also, the higher they are, the safer they’ll feel.
• Location - Central Illinois

Some things that come with the cham kit are useless for chams. The Repti carpet is nothing but a bacteria magnet. Keep the floor bare…much easier to keep clean. I think it comes with a feeding dish too…another useless thing. Chameleons rarely go down to the ground, so place your feeding station in one place up where it can easily be seen from basking area. You can use a short deli cup, hanging bird feeder dish or one of the several different types of feeders available. Some like this type https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/feedercups I like this one https://tkchameleons.com/
To be continued…
View attachment 320614View attachment 320615View attachment 320616

Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!! One other question. What size feeders should I be giving? I ordered 1/2 inch crickets but they seem sooo big and i’m worried she’ll choke! She’s eaten everything i’ve given her and now knowing she needs more I can’t imagine her eating 15-20 of these crickets! Too big???

 

[MissSkittles]

Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!! One other question. What size feeders should I be giving? I ordered 1/2 inch crickets but they seem sooo big and i’m worried she’ll choke! She’s eaten everything i’ve given her and now knowing she needs more I can’t imagine her eating 15-20 of these crickets! Too big???

Here’s a great chart for cricket size. https://www.ghann.com/Live-Crickets-C2.aspx It’s always better to have too small than too big. I would say 1/8” to no larger than 1/4” .

 

[jbrownn]

Any advice on one of her eyes squinting or being closed during the day?

 

[jbrownn]

You do have some important changes to make. Unfortunately, like many, you’ve fallen victim to the chameleon kit. But…you’re here quickly after noticing a change in your little one and that will make all the difference for you both.

• Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Estimated to be about 1-2 months she’s very small. I’ve had her for a week. I’m not that great at guessing age, but I would say she’s maybe 2-3 months old. Are you sure she’s a she? Does she have some nubs sticking out from the backs of her back feet? If so, those are tarsal spurs and only males have them. Some females may have tiny little bumps, but spurs are rather pronounced.
• Handling - I have not yet handled her as they told me to allow 2 weeks for her to get settled in her new home. Excellent advice!
• Feeding - Feeding her gutloaded crickets purchased from Josh Frogs. Typically around 3-4 pm. For her young age she should be getting at least 15-20 appropriately sized feeders, twice daily. Anything larger than the space between her eyes, is too big for her to eat. Around 3-4 months old, we start cutting back to once daily feeding and from there, cutting back on the amount. By the time she’s around 5-6 months old she should be getting fed 5-7 feeders. Variety of feeders is best. It’s very important to feed your feeders well and keep them healthy so they are more nutritious. Attaching graphics for you.
• Supplements - Reptivite and Repticalcium (i’ve only used this with 3 feeding since i’ve had her) I believe the ReptiVite that comes with the cham kit has vitamin D3 in it. This is a great combo of multivitamin and D3 (is the one I use) and you’ll want to use it for one feeding, every other week. The Repticalcium should not have D3, and you’ll want to lightly dust with this daily/every feeding (except the Reptivite one).
• Watering - I have a mister bottle that i’ve been using quite frequently as it seems sooo dry. I’ve been misting nearly 3-4 times a day. I’ve seen her drink maybe twice. Veileds ideal humidity range is between 30-50%, which is much drier than we tend to think. It’s ok and actually desired for the enclosure to dry out completely between misting. It’s best to mist for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day…before lights go on/off and it’s optional at mid day.
• Fecal Description - I’ve only seen two different dropping. Both includes the white part but one seemed slightly yellow. It’s always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness visit with a fresh fecal check for parasites, especially with pet store animals.
• History - No additional history

• Cage Info:
• Cage Type - ReptiBreeze Chameleon starter kit enclosure This size is ok for now, but veileds grow super quick and in a few short months she’ll be needing a much bigger space. A 2x2x4’ enclosure is the minimum standard.
• Lighting - Tropical UVB & heat lighting by Zoomed. Lights are on 8am-8pm Schedule is great, your uvb is not. One of the biggest problems with the cham kit is the uvb is inadequate at any distance greater than 2-3” away. If you have it set up so your cham can get that close, then you are risking burns from the basking light. The standard uvb is a T5HO fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% linear uvb bulb. Then for ideal uvb levels your basking area should be about 8-9” down from the light. Since little ones love to walk along their screen tops, they are at high risk for getting burns so it’s best to elevate all lights off the screen by at least a few inches. There is a seller of ReptiRisers on Etsy or you can come up with your own solution. I use wire baskets from the dollar store.
• Temperature - 82 degrees in basking spot. Not bad, but we try to keep our little ones and ladies no higher than 80. Lowest overnight temp: 62. Perfect night time drop!
• Humidity - Humidity: 46% during day but drops quickly if not misted often. There are better ways to maintain humidity. You can wrap the back and 1 or both sides in a shower curtain or window insulation film. Adding lots of live plants does wonders for humidity.
• Plants - Golden Plothos Great! Pothos is one of a cham keepers staples. Philodendron is very similar and can be used as well. Both of these will do fine without special lighting. However, I would suggest adding a tall centerpiece plant such as schefflera, money tree or weeping fig and then have other plants around it. You want to create lots of shaded areas and hiding spots for your cham. You also want lots of branches/vines for your little sweetie to travel on. You can use natural branches from outside…avoid pine and other sappy trees. Give a good wash with some dish soap and a really thorough rinse with a hose and they’re good to go.
• Placement - Located in family living area on high top counter Keep in mind that they see humans as potential predators and too much human activity can stress them. Adding lots of hiding places deep in some plants will help. Also, the higher they are, the safer they’ll feel.
• Location - Central Illinois

Some things that come with the cham kit are useless for chams. The Repti carpet is nothing but a bacteria magnet. Keep the floor bare…much easier to keep clean. I think it comes with a feeding dish too…another useless thing. Chameleons rarely go down to the ground, so place your feeding station in one place up where it can easily be seen from basking area. You can use a short deli cup, hanging bird feeder dish or one of the several different types of feeders available. Some like this type https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/feedercups I like this one https://tkchameleons.com/
To be continued…
View attachment 320614View attachment 320615View attachment 320616

It took a while for me to determine the gender. I was very unsure. But i don’t see anything on the back feet to indicate male. The Veil throws me off though so I’m honestly unsure lol. I went with female

 

[MissSkittles]

Any advice on one of her eyes squinting or being closed during the day?

Make the husbandry changes as soon as you can and hopefully that will resolve whatever is causing her eye to squint/be closed. Of course, taking her to a good vet experienced with chameleons is always best as it could be that she has something stuck in her eye and needs it flushed out.

 

[jbrownn]

Ok, now to your original concern. I don’t see anything of concern in your pics of Millie. The dry flaking skin and white spot sound like the beginning of shedding. Little ones shed pretty often and quite quickly. Sometimes you may not even know it has happened if you don’t see the shed skin pieces in the enclosure. Chameleons are dry shedders and usually if your husbandry is good, they won’t have any shedding problems.
Having one or both eyes closed when it’s daytime is a concern as it’s often the first sign of a problem that we see. Getting everything corrected quickly, especially lights, feeding amounts and supplements should perk her up. Usually chameleons shouldn’t be sold until at least 3 months old as the younger they are, the less tolerant they are to husbandry error.
Now, even though Millie is still just a baby, she will grow super fast and by the time she’s around 5-6 months old she can start producing and laying eggs. She doesn’t need to even see a male for this to happen…it just does…like chickens. Because of this, it’s more important than ever to have correct husbandry to prevent laying problems. I’ll spare you (for now) my laying 101 ‘talk’. I just wanted to make sure you’re aware that she’ll lay eggs.
There are a few trusted and wonderful sources for lots more info on keeping chameleons. This is the best place for tons of info. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Neptune the chameleon on YouTube is also fantastic and has an ever growing library of videos. Of course, the forum is the best place to ask questions, seek guidance and share the beauty and awesomeness of your sweet little girl. I’m so very glad that you found your way here.

Okay I did read they shed quickly when young but also seen something saying they'll shed once a month. She did shed the 2nd day I had her which would've been last Sunday. Would she be shedding again already?

 

[MissSkittles]

It’s possible. They grow fast.

 

[jbrownn]

It seems as if the moment I post as a worried mama she's back to her happy go lucky self moving around and very bright green. I did add a new plant for her overnight that I think she finally noticed and she's happy about that! I will of course make the necessary changes including lighting and feeding! Thank you for your knowledge I appreciate it. This forum has been sooo much help in just one week of time. Im excited to be here and show off Millie!

 

[MissSkittles]

It seems as if the moment I post as a worried mama she's back to her happy go lucky self moving around and very bright green. I did add a new plant for her overnight that I think she finally noticed and she's happy about that! I will of course make the necessary changes including lighting and feeding! Thank you for your knowledge I appreciate it. This forum has been sooo much help in just one week of time. Im excited to be here and show off Millie!

I’m happy to have been of some help and look forward to seeing more of you and sweet Millie.

 

[Lindasjackson]

Welcome to the forum! Miss skittles has given you lots of great info! Miss Skittles is awesome that way.

 

[jbrownn]

picture including her back feet. Would you guys say female as well?

 

[MissSkittles]

It’s a little hard to fully see, but I would say female.