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I know your concern was the bumps on the feet....but it's good that we check your husbandry.

What do you gutload/feed the crickets with?
It's good to use a wider assortment of insects but crickets make a good staple because they are usually readily and easy to gutload.

What supplements do you use and how often for each. Be specific because we're looking at attaining a balance of nutrients.

What UVB light is he getting? It's important for calcium metabolism.
Is the cage near a window or away from wIndows?

Do you have plants in the cage? Substrate?
 
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His cage is far away from any windows
I have 2 mini dome lamp fixtures
I have a 5.0 uvb
I use herptivite calcium everytime I feed crickets, feed him twice a day
75watt basking bulb from exoterra
I have fake plants but I recently started feeding him greens as a part of his diet
 
Herptivite is a vitamin powder...I recommend you only use it twice a month dusted lightly on the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon. I recommend a phos free calcium powder with D3 to be used the same way.....and at every other feeding, dust with a phos free calcium powder.

Crickets, locusts, super worms, roaches can be fed/Gutloaded with a wide assortment of greens, veggies and a little bit of fruit....I use dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, escarole, carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet peppers, apple, pear, berries etc.
 
For years now I've used Herptivite twice a month, RepCal phos free calcium powder at most feedings and RepCal phos free calcium with D3 twice a month.
 
What do you think about this setup?
 

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What do you think about this setup?

I'd make the suggested changes:

- Remove the substrate at the bottom. Bare bottom is recommended and totally fine.
- Switch to linear UVB. This is a good read as to why and what bulb to get: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/lighting/
- Add some live plants . Pothos, ficus, and hibiscus are popular.
- Remove the bowls at the bottom. Still water can be a prime location for bacteria.

Hope this helps.
 
The only reason I have substrate in the bottom is because alot of water tends to flood underneath the cage, any suggestions to help that?
 
The only reason I have substrate in the bottom is because alot of water tends to flood underneath the cage, any suggestions to help that?

Gotta make a drainage system or go bioactive (use the search bar for either of these - there have been many threads about it). Plain ol' substrate is a big risk of impaction and bacterial growth
 
The only reason I have substrate in the bottom is because alot of water tends to flood underneath the cage, any suggestions to help that?

Gotta make a drainage system or go bioactive (use the search bar for either of these - there have been many threads about it). Plain ol' substrate is a big risk of impaction and bacterial growth

In addition to adding a drainage system (hole in the bottom and bucket to catch the water), adding in the live plants I suggested can also help soak up water.

243584
 
I have a big problem, I have the bark substrate at the bottom and I haven't taken it out yet and today my chameleon was shedding and it fell to the floor, I tried taking all the skin out but he went to the bottom and went to go eat it and he ended up eating a piece of bark
 
I have a big problem, I have the bark substrate at the bottom and I haven't taken it out yet and today my chameleon was shedding and it fell to the floor, I tried taking all the skin out but he went to the bottom and went to go eat it and he ended up eating a piece of bark
Yes you do. How big of a piece? Actually size is irrelevant, you’ve got to monitor him closely now. If he goes down hill it’s going to be fast.

Get rid of the damn bark.
 
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