Help with Godzilla the ambilobe panther

chris1985

New Member
Hi, i would appreciate any help, my first time on a forum.

I have a male ambilobe panther chameleon, got him 2 months ago (he was about 3 months old) so now around 5months mark.

He ate around 15-20 crickets per day, with the occasional locust and waxworm.

Only 3-4 days ago his apetite vanished, only eating around 3-4 per day. He then started to shed but didnt do it in the normal explosive fashion, its taken him about 3 days now and still has little bits of skin left.

I now havnt seen him eat a cricket in 2 days, but will eat as many waxworms as he is offered (although i have been told these are quite fattening and not very nutritional). Up until he stopped eating waxworms were a treat, say 1 a day max.

Is the fact he is shedding affecting his apetite???? or could it be something else.

I cannot see anything wrong with him, although he seems to sneeze/snort now and again but mainly when handled.
 

Elizadolots

New Member
I read in your other post that you have him in his original glass tank. It's probably time for an adult cage.

It would really help if you completed the "how to ask for help" form that's stickied at the top of this forum. Just copy the form, then type your information in. Be as specific as possible. Please make sure to describe the poop.
 

Julirs

New Member
Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
* Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
* Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
* Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
* Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
* Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
* History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
* Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
* Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
* Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
* Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
* Location - Where are you geographically located?


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
 

chris1985

New Member
Here we go:

1. Ambilobe Panther chameleon, Male around 5 months old, i got him when he was about 3 months.
2. Handle chameleon at lease once a day, because he makes me when i spray him he climbs out onto my hand.
3. Feed - his main diet is crickets with occasional locust and waxworm, was about 15-20 per day and he was eating the lot. Feed him every morning before i go to work. crickets,locust, waxworms are gut loaded with shop bought food and supplemented with fresh fruit, greens etc.
4. Supplement every day with calcium only (calci-dust), every other week with multivitimans (arkvits) and twice a month with nutrobol.
5. No water in cage, mist with boiled water (to remove chlorine) 3-4 times per day. Saw him drink for first few weeks (licking of leaves) but not seen him drink now for ages. Make a point of spraying him.
6. Small white bit with large black brown bit. white bit been a bit off white colour recently. I have never tested him for parasites? how do you do that?
7. Tank - he is in an exo-terra glass terrium with mesh top. Dimensions are 45cm x 45cm x 60cm(high)
8. Lighting - lights are switched by timer and are on 7am-7pm. Two lights in hood both exo terra UVB repti glow 2.0 and UVB repti glow 10.0. And 1 x 100w red heat bulb sat ontop of mesh (outside cage).
9. Temp - cage floor is about 70degrees, top of tank around 80-85 degrees. All lights are off at night and temp falls to lowest 60degrees.
10. Humidity - humidity levels around 70%-80%, created by misting only. Measured by komodo humidity gauge.
11. Plants - 2 live plants ficus (unsure what type), and bromeliad
12. placement - cage located next to front door in house, quite high traffic area but he doesnt seem to mind. Top of cage is about 115cm from floor.
13. I live in UK - Manchester.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 

Ace

Avid Member
i just think he is bored of crix....

try dubia roaches, silkworms, superworms, even the locusts to spark any apetite....again feed the bugs properly with healthy fruits and veggies

any pics?:)
 

chris1985

New Member
How do you upload a picture, i have some waiting on my camera i just took but dont know how to get them up???
 

hallenhe

Avid Member
As they grow, they will slow down on their food intake, and the shedding gets slower as well (from all at once, in one day to, in some cases, a foot one week, the tail the next, then nothing for a while, then the right flank...).
Once you get your picture on the computer (jpeg or other graphics file), you can upload it directly by clicking on the "manage attachments" button in the "additional options" section below the window where you type your text. This will let you upload it to the forum from the computer. Alternately, image hosting sites like Photobucket will give you a lot more free storage space than the forum will; you can upload them there, and paste the html code it gives you into the forum's text entry window.
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
Chris, it is nice to hear you have a friendly chameleon, because I am lucky to have one as well! Your cham looks healthy. A couple of things, I don't think that you need a 2.o and a 10.0.Atleast get rid of the 2.0. It is not necessary to have that much uvb. Most of us on here use the Reptisun 5.0 tube without any problems or issues. not saying that the 10.0 is causing you problems or will in the future. just saying what works well for most of us. Plus I would ditch the red light and get a 60 watt regular housebulb. 100 watt is kinda high and you have a mostly glass enclosure which does retain the heat more, and your temps should be more in the mid 70's ish range with your basking temp around 85. What is your basking temp under that red light? I would also maybe move up your basking branch a little higher so your cham can get closer to the light to bask providing your temp is about in the 85-90 degree mark.
 

chris1985

New Member
from what i have read chameleons are not friendly, mine is the total opposite. He has started waiting near the front of the tank and when he sees someone go past he claws at the glass, open the door and he is out and doesnt want to go back.

I thnik i may get rid of the 2.0uvb, couldnt find an ordinary energy saver at the time so just used that. I have only got the uvb 10.0 because that was all they had in the shop on the day i went to get it. guy in shop said 5.0 would be fine but they didnt have any in.

I may have confused you with the temps, about 70 at the bottom and around 85ish under the 100w light (which is about 5/6" above basking spot) is this ok?

Also do you know why he may not be eating? do you think he may be bored of crickets??
 

Julirs

New Member
I have 100 watt lightbulbs on my Beardies and the temp is 105 degrees 10" under the light. What kind of thermometer are you using? He may want out because it is too hot.
 

Elizadolots

New Member
If I've done my math right, that cage is maybe a tad small for an adult, however, it doesn't look small in the picture so I guess I can't do math.

They do get bored of food and stage hunger strikes. You can try different feeders or just not give him anything for a couple of days, then re-introduce crickets. Absence may make the heart grow fonder.
 

pantherlover

New Member
Hey there,

To me your cham looks a little on the dehydrated side. When was he last time your cham has left droppings? How off white are you talking here, regarding the urate? Im not familiar with the multivitamin you are you using. Does it contain d3? if so, how much? Does it contain betacarotine or preformed vitamin a? If so, how much?

If, in fact, your cham is becoming dehydrated, it may not want to eat for that reason.

A 100 watt bulb is definitely too hot. At the end of the day, my 60 watt bulbs are maxing out at around 95 at the same distance as you have. A quality digital thermometer with a probe is a very important tool to have.

The 10.0 bulb might be part of your problem, depending on how much d3 you are offering. 10.0 bulbs are usually used for freerange set ups because they push uv rays quite a bit further than a 5.0

Chams require the right balance of vitamin d3 and vitamin a. Some believe that chams cannot convert betacarotine to preformed vit a. Chameleons with low levels of vitamin a have been known to develop shedding problems and eye problems. Use of preformed vit a must be used with caution and research.

I ask about the amount of d3 in the supplements you are using because some are made for monthly use, some are made for daily or weekly use. When comparing the numbers on the back of multivitamin bottles, the difference is quite apparent.

Good looking boy youve got there. Just keep reading along on here. You will learn sooo much as many of us have. Hope some of this helps.
 

chris1985

New Member
last droppings were today, but a lot smaller than ususal, looked dryer. Although today it seemed quite white. I have today introduced a water dripper over the plants to encourage him to drink.

can i feed him water via pipette or should i just keep up the spraying and hope he has a drink from the dripper??

The multivitamins i am using are

calci dust (every day) - pure calcium nothing else

nutrobal (every other week) - contents per gram are 200mg calcium & 150iu D3 plus various other vits.

Arkvits (every other week) - contents per gram are vitamin A 1177iu, D3118IU, vit C 85mg, vit E 54iu &loads of other stuff.

Do these look ok, just noticed both arkvits & nutrobol have D3 - is this too much???

I am going out tomorow to get him a 50w heat bulb and a 5.0uvb, i will save the ones i have now until he moves to his bigger home later this year.

thanks for the advice.
 

Texas Panther Man

New Member
Just remember when you use those old bulbs that they are only good for about 6-7 months most of the time. By then they begin to degrade and the uvb output is lowered. Since that one bulb is a 10.0 you could maybe use it a little longer if you have a uvb meter to keep an eye on it and monitor its uvb output. ;)

and you have a nice looking pardalis man. hes quite colorful for being only 5 months keep up the good work. Have you tried silkworms or hornworms to break that hunger strike. Sounds like he wants some variety. Show him something green and I bet he'll eat. Or get some Blue Bottle flies they love those.
 

Cainschams

New Member
from what i have read chameleons are not friendly, mine is the total opposite. He has started waiting near the front of the tank and when he sees someone go past he claws at the glass, open the door and he is out and doesnt want to go back.

I would say the reason for this is not that he is trying to seek out attention from a human rather his cage IS very small and not much for him to climb around on. IMO if your cage, furnishings, temps, humidity etc are up to par a chameleon will not be so inclined to want to get out of the cage. I left the door open to one of my chams cages the other day while trying to snag some pics. Was in a hurry:eek: A few hours later I came back to her still in the cage doing her thing and the door was at least half way open.

You need to get him a much larger cage and more furnishings.

He does look nice and healthy though.
 

pantherlover

New Member
Youve just gotta find out how your chams will drink. Ive got one guy who will only drink beads of water ontop of the cage.
 

chris1985

New Member
thanks for all the ino very helpful.

Shows how much the gusy in the pet show now they said this setup would last me until he was about 12 months old. GGGRRRRR paid £80 for just the tank only 2 months ago.
I am planning on a new enclosure anyway from mesh as a feature in the living room, going to build it myself how do these dimensions sound

1.5ft x 1.5ft x 4ft high

The 10.0 uvb was brand new, the 2.0 was an old one. Listening to the advice on here about uvb levels I have today bought some new kit

5.0uvb bulb, will save 10.0 for bigger enclosure.

50w red heat emitter, will save my 100w for the bigger enclosure (once built). the basking spot reads 85degrees now so that seems bettter, the 100w was doing 105degrees

I have also got a new thermometer and hygrometer - didgital prope type.

They are currently reading 71degrees, 80%humidity these are low down in the tank away from the lights is this OK?
 
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