Help with a chameleon

[Ryanmarie623]

Hello!
So I am new to this site and I have a friend that can no longer take care of her chameleon. The chameleon wasn't eating and it took awhile for her to eat. My friend is willing to give her to me with a proper cage and all the pants in side. I've always wanted a chameleon but I am concerned about the eating situation and if it is the right move to make to take on a chameleon that won't eat much.

 

[kinyonga]

If she can no longer take care of it and she's going to give it to you for free then I would think that the chameleon would have a better chance of surviving with you than if its left with your friend...no?

Just be aware that if the reason for it not eating is a health issue (eggbinding, for instance) that it might need to see a vet...so there will be a cost to you.

Get as much information from her so you can answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread in the health forum here and we can try to help you/her with the issues.

 

[Ryanmarie623]

Thanks!

Thank you for making me feel a little better! I brought her home last night and we just went to bed. But today i fed her and she couldnt wait to eat! she didnt eat as much as i thought she would but she was so eager when she saw me opening her cage to put the crickets in. I gave her some water too but she didnt seem to drink to much. I also just ordered a humififer for her so i hope doing that makes her happy.

 

[kinyonga]

Until you have time to answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread at the top of the health forum here is some information to get you started...

Its recommended that there should be no lights on the cage at night unless the temperature drops below 60F.

The long linear Repti-sun 5.0 tube light is the most often recommended UVB light. Exposure to UVB light allows the chameleon to produce the D3 it needs to be able to use the calcium in its system. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB at will there should be no problem with D3 building up from exposure to the UVB.

Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. its important to dust with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings. The dusting is done just before the insects are fed to the chameleon.

Twice a month its recommended that you dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it.

Twice a month its recommended that you dust with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources don't build up in the system like prEformed sources do so this leaves it up to you to decide when/if the chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A.

Its important to feed/gutload the insects well. Crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms can be fed/gutloaded with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, dandelions, kale, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc. and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, squash, zucchini, etc.

With proper UVB light, appropriate supplements and feeding/gutloading of the insects and appropriate basking temperatures that will allow the chameleon to digest its food well (thus absorb nutrients well) you have the best chance of your chameleon being healthy.

Also be aware that some egglaying chameleons can produce eggs without having mated so its important that they have a place in the cage to dig to show you when they are ready. Failure to do so can lead to eggbinding.