help the new comer
- Thread starter Robones
- Start date
Lovereps
Avid Member
Robones, I think the use of the word "form" is a bit confusing. When everyone says to "fill-out the How to ask for help form", what they mean is to make a post with the answers to all of the questions .
It's not a form that you submit.
If nobody can see your answers to the questions, then nobody can help you either.
It's not a form that you submit.
If nobody can see your answers to the questions, then nobody can help you either.
Joined Nov 21 2009
Romieo(m),Juliet(f) Arived 11/19/09 Veil Chameleons I think maybe 2 months old.
Gage info:
Gage Type - Glass/w screen top,12x21x24
Light - Neodymium Daylight Lamp, Blue Light for night time.
Temp.- 80
Hum - 50% /w med. waterfall runs 24/7
Plants - plastic
Placement - 3ft. off ground In my bedroom.
Location - Ohio
Chameleon info:
Type - 2 Veil m/f
Feeding - Gut - Loaded Cric,Mealworms. Feed 10am - 3pm
Handling - once a day I hope!
Supplements - Calcium, Multi Vitamin powder. Dust crikets 1 a week.
Hope this Helps!!!!
Romieo(m),Juliet(f) Arived 11/19/09 Veil Chameleons I think maybe 2 months old.
Gage info:
Gage Type - Glass/w screen top,12x21x24
Light - Neodymium Daylight Lamp, Blue Light for night time.
Temp.- 80
Hum - 50% /w med. waterfall runs 24/7
Plants - plastic
Placement - 3ft. off ground In my bedroom.
Location - Ohio
Chameleon info:
Type - 2 Veil m/f
Feeding - Gut - Loaded Cric,Mealworms. Feed 10am - 3pm
Handling - once a day I hope!
Supplements - Calcium, Multi Vitamin powder. Dust crikets 1 a week.
Hope this Helps!!!!
Lovereps
Avid Member
As cute as they may look together, they have to be separated. Chams are not social animals--they're solitary and being forced to live together does stress them--you just don't recognize that they're stressed because you're new to chams.
As others have said, screen cages are the standard because it is much easier to maintain a healthful environment in a screen cage than in a glass tank.
Waterfalls are no good because they are breeding grounds for bacteria--and chams often choose them as their toilet, so to speak.
A spray bottle and a simple dripper are all you'll need to keep your chams from dehydrating. If your chams are tiny, you have to be careful not to saturate them , as they can accidentally inhale the water. (Tiny drops are big to tiny creatures.)
It's good that you have been gutloading your feeders, but
especially while they are young and rapidly growing, it is very important to lightly dust feeders every day with calcium.
Insects should be lightly dusted daily with calcium without D3--and without any phosphorus at all), then, 2x monthly dust with a good vitamin powder and 2x per month dust with calcium with D3 (again--there should be NO phosphorus in any calcium supplement).
As much insect variety as possible is the best diet of all.
Mealworms are not one of the better foods for your cham, though--as they have been known to cause impaction--a fatal , complete blockage of the intestines--especially in young chams.
You need a Reptisun 5.0 linear (long tube, not compact or coiled bulb) for UVB light.
Without the proper amount of UVB light your chams will develop MBD (metabolic bone disease). It's a leading cause of death in pet reptiles--not just chams.
Proper temperatures are also crucial to both their digestion of food and their general health.
Both DIY Cages and LLL Reptile sell good quality cages.
Here are links:
http://www.diycages.com/
Here's a link to a good page about caring for Veileds:
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
As others have said, screen cages are the standard because it is much easier to maintain a healthful environment in a screen cage than in a glass tank.
Waterfalls are no good because they are breeding grounds for bacteria--and chams often choose them as their toilet, so to speak.
A spray bottle and a simple dripper are all you'll need to keep your chams from dehydrating. If your chams are tiny, you have to be careful not to saturate them , as they can accidentally inhale the water. (Tiny drops are big to tiny creatures.)
It's good that you have been gutloading your feeders, but
especially while they are young and rapidly growing, it is very important to lightly dust feeders every day with calcium.
Insects should be lightly dusted daily with calcium without D3--and without any phosphorus at all), then, 2x monthly dust with a good vitamin powder and 2x per month dust with calcium with D3 (again--there should be NO phosphorus in any calcium supplement).
As much insect variety as possible is the best diet of all.
Mealworms are not one of the better foods for your cham, though--as they have been known to cause impaction--a fatal , complete blockage of the intestines--especially in young chams.
You need a Reptisun 5.0 linear (long tube, not compact or coiled bulb) for UVB light.
Without the proper amount of UVB light your chams will develop MBD (metabolic bone disease). It's a leading cause of death in pet reptiles--not just chams.
Proper temperatures are also crucial to both their digestion of food and their general health.
Both DIY Cages and LLL Reptile sell good quality cages.
Here are links:
http://www.diycages.com/
Here's a link to a good page about caring for Veileds:
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
pssh
Avid Member
In addition to the post above, chameleons can drown in extremely shallow water, so they have a high chance of drowning. Also, plants are a must for veiled chameleons as they eat plant matter. Veileds have been known to eat fake plants and choke on them, so non toxic plants are better for them.
Crickets and anyother food items should be gutloaded with veggies like kale, collard greens, and carrots, and fruits like pears, apples, and oranges. Chameleons also like to be up high to feel secure, so raise their cages up above the eye level of the tallest person in the house. Handling chameleons usually just causes stress and, as I'm sure you've read, stress causes death. So it's best to leave handling to bi-weekly inspections or cage cleaning.
Crickets and anyother food items should be gutloaded with veggies like kale, collard greens, and carrots, and fruits like pears, apples, and oranges. Chameleons also like to be up high to feel secure, so raise their cages up above the eye level of the tallest person in the house. Handling chameleons usually just causes stress and, as I'm sure you've read, stress causes death. So it's best to leave handling to bi-weekly inspections or cage cleaning.
I am looing at gages. I have 1 ? I living in Ohio with winter coming! Having an wired gage will expose them to temps. in this old farm house I live in. Normal temps. is about 70 - 72
on really cold days 68 - 70 degrees. The temps in the gage will still be 80 or so. I gess my ? is in the gage will there be cold and hot spot and is this a ok enviornment for them.
on really cold days 68 - 70 degrees. The temps in the gage will still be 80 or so. I gess my ? is in the gage will there be cold and hot spot and is this a ok enviornment for them.
pssh
Avid Member
My baby has low ambient temps of 69-70 right now and a basking of 85. He's only a month older than yours and mine is fine! Just try to keep the night temp above 60, though they can handle lower temps. However, I don't think you should subject them to that until they are adult, or even never if possible. Screen is still good! Generally the rule is, USA=screen, canada & Europe=glass unless you have small species that require lower temps and more humidity. Veileds don't, so it doesn't matter.
Humidifiers can be bought at walmart, but I think setting up a dripper and spraying more would be the cheaper and easier. Right now you should be worrying about their UVB bulbs and getting rid of that waterfall! They also need separate cages!!
Humidifiers can be bought at walmart, but I think setting up a dripper and spraying more would be the cheaper and easier. Right now you should be worrying about their UVB bulbs and getting rid of that waterfall! They also need separate cages!!
Loverep I am looking big apple cages. Not sure do i need 16x16,18x18,or24x24
I took the waterfall out. Is it ok to misting them 3 times a day? How many times a day do I feed them? And dust them(calc. of vitamin) with ever feeding that day or just one dusting a day? I got 18x18x36,24x24x48 as soon get here, and I have a uvb lamp
on the way should get her tomomorow. The bulb I can get at the local pet store. I got calc d3 today.
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pssh
Avid Member
Mist 2-6 times a day. Feed either once a day 6-10 crickets or twice a day 3-5 at a time.
I supplement like this.
Week 1
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: calcium w/d3
Week 2
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: vit.
Week 3
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: calcium w/ d3
Week 4
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: vit.
However, it will depend on what brand you have.
I supplement like this.
Week 1
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: calcium w/d3
Week 2
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: vit.
Week 3
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: calcium w/ d3
Week 4
mon-fri: calcium w/o d3
sat: none
sun: vit.
However, it will depend on what brand you have.
TKS again. Juliet the smart one. She figuardout where i dump the food in. Now she sits under a leaf at the bottom of the cage. When I pour the food in it wont hit her and shes the first to feed. Romeio sits in the top right corner behind sone greeny, hidden from sight. Calcium d3 is made by Fluker's
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