camimom
New Member
wow thanks!
its just a common cold/allergies, and im mostly over it now. just hitting the last few bumps in the road.
Help, i think my cham is sick [fixed]
- Thread starter stefii2
- Start date
wow thanks!
its just a common cold/allergies, and im mostly over it now. just hitting the last few bumps in the road.
brandon1
Established Member
Haha I meant like the whole time camimom and myself, and I'm sure anyone else reading, assumed that the cham was yours, and then when Ultraviolent replied saying that the cham was his I don't think anyone seen that coming lolwhat do you mean?totally unexpected in what sense?
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camimom
New Member
Haha I meant like the whole time camimom and myself, and I'm sure anyone else reading, assumed that the cham was yours, and then when Ultraviolent replied saying that the cham was his I don't think anyone seen that coming lol
exactly! i was like wait, but they said its theirs. now its yours.. huh?
Welcome to the forum...both of you!
You said..."i have more "random bugs" but they are hidden under a egg cardboard. how i keep the bugs alive? i mean, i gave them carrot and apples, but they still die and i want them to be healthy so my Pringles can be healthy"... what you are feeding the insects can be improved/expanded on...see below. What do you mean "random bugs? Do the crickets, mealworms and roaches all die?
You said..."the colors show her emotions?"...you could say they talk in color/pattern (along with body language)...and they also use color changes to heat up and cool off.
Although veiled chameleon females can lay eggs without being mated since you seem to have been underfeeding her there is a good chance that she won't..but I would put an opaque container (at least 12" deep x 12" x 8") full of washed playsand in her cage and leave it there now that she is 6 or so months old. This will give her a place to dig to show you that she needs to lay eggs in case she does start producing.
You've been given advice about how much to feed her. Regarding force feeding...that should only be a last resort. Try dripping water on the end of her nose slowly and if she starts to drink as her mouth is opening and shutting you can put the cricket head first between her teeth and hopefully she will eat it. How big are the crickets?
You said you are at school all day and want to provide her with water while you're away. I think the only way you could do that would be to set up an automatic system....however, you should be fine with misting her cage in the morning and again later in the day. You can also set up a dripper by punching a tiny hole in the bottom of a large deli cup so that it can drip on the plant leaves for a while. It should drip at the rate of about a drop or two every second or two.
Light passing through glass windows or plastic will not provide UVB for your chameleon...just to let you know. The chameleon will likely enjoy sitting in the sunlight coming through the glass though.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
You said..."i have more "random bugs" but they are hidden under a egg cardboard. how i keep the bugs alive? i mean, i gave them carrot and apples, but they still die and i want them to be healthy so my Pringles can be healthy"... what you are feeding the insects can be improved/expanded on...see below. What do you mean "random bugs? Do the crickets, mealworms and roaches all die?
You said..."the colors show her emotions?"...you could say they talk in color/pattern (along with body language)...and they also use color changes to heat up and cool off.
Although veiled chameleon females can lay eggs without being mated since you seem to have been underfeeding her there is a good chance that she won't..but I would put an opaque container (at least 12" deep x 12" x 8") full of washed playsand in her cage and leave it there now that she is 6 or so months old. This will give her a place to dig to show you that she needs to lay eggs in case she does start producing.
You've been given advice about how much to feed her. Regarding force feeding...that should only be a last resort. Try dripping water on the end of her nose slowly and if she starts to drink as her mouth is opening and shutting you can put the cricket head first between her teeth and hopefully she will eat it. How big are the crickets?
You said you are at school all day and want to provide her with water while you're away. I think the only way you could do that would be to set up an automatic system....however, you should be fine with misting her cage in the morning and again later in the day. You can also set up a dripper by punching a tiny hole in the bottom of a large deli cup so that it can drip on the plant leaves for a while. It should drip at the rate of about a drop or two every second or two.
Light passing through glass windows or plastic will not provide UVB for your chameleon...just to let you know. The chameleon will likely enjoy sitting in the sunlight coming through the glass though.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
stefii2
New Member
thank you for all your information, but i want yo to know that yesterday she ate 7 crickets and a roach, and today she drank normally. she started to be more active and i'm really happy about it.
"random bugs" i meant that they are some bugs but i don't know their specie name.
"random bugs" i meant that they are some bugs but i don't know their specie name.
camimom
New Member
if you take a pic of those random bugs, we can try to identify them for you.
Ultraviolent
New Member
Well i can second that, I know for sure that Pringles (the cham at we are talking about) is pickyband likes crickets, if she has the choice she will eat only crickets
