Help! Chameleon is having trouble using his tongue!

Jchkayla

Member
I took a video but it won’t let me upload, my chameleon tries to eat but won’t fling his tongue out. He leans towards his food then sticks it out a little trying to get it but he can’t because he won’t fling his tongue out. I don’t know what’s happening :( does he look healthy?
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I took a video but it won’t let me upload, my chameleon tries to eat but won’t fling his tongue out. He leans towards his food then sticks it out a little trying to get it but he can’t because he won’t fling his tongue out. I don’t know what’s happening :( does he look healthy?
You can load it to youtube and share the link here.


You can fill out the husbandry form so we can spot potential issues causing this.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Jchkayla

Member
You can load it to youtube and share the link here.


You can fill out the husbandry form so we can spot potential issues causing this.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Nosey be male panther chameleon. I think he’s about 6 months and I’ve had him for about 5 1/2 months.
  • Handling - I don’t handle him, he prefers to just be left alone.
  • Feeding - I feed him crickets, mealworms and calcium worms. As much as he wants so about 8-10 a day. But he hasn’t been eating as much due to this concern. I feed him Everyday and just leave them in there throughout the day so he can eat whenever he feels like it. I use the cricket quencher and food but I don’t gutload my mealworms.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I dust them w calcium without d3 about 3 times a week and with d3 once a week, brand is repticalcium and rep-cal multivitamin.
  • Watering - I have a automatic mister that goes on several times a day for two minutes and up. I see him drink sometimes.
  • Fecal Description - Dark and wet but not liquidy.
  • History - I got him from CBreptile and he had to be about two-three weeks old. I never got him tested for parasites but I’m not sure if they did.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - All mesh, reptibreeze XL 2x2x4
  • Lighting - Reptisun t5 24watt UVB and reptibasking 75w heat lamp. 8:30am-8:30pm
  • Temperature - Temp gun, 74-84
  • Humidity - I heave a hydrometer and it’s around 76% misting throughout the day automatically
  • Plants - Live plants, I have a pothos and cane plant
  • Placement - In my room, no traffic. It’s about 8 foot from the floor.
  • Location - Florida

Current Problem - he’s not using his tongue, he tries to stick it out but then puts it back in his mouth like he’s hesitant to actually fling it to grab the bugs.

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Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

cruz.m

Avid Member
So I don’t own a panther but from my knowledge I’ll add some stuff and someone can do all of it when they can
Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Nosey be male panther chameleon. I think he’s about 6 months and I’ve had him for about 5 1/2 months.
  • Handling - I don’t handle him, he prefers to just be left alone.
  • Feeding - I feed him crickets, mealworms and calcium worms. As much as he wants so about 8-10 a day. But he hasn’t been eating as much due to this concern. I feed him Everyday and just leave them in there throughout the day so he can eat whenever he feels like it. I use the cricket quencher and food but I don’t gutload my mealworms. No mealworms they aren’t recommended, I think you’re over feeding as well. The cricket quencher isn’t good I’ll attach a gut load chart
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I dust them w calcium without d3 about 3 times a week and with d3 once a week, brand is repticalcium and rep-cal multivitamin. You need calcium without d3 phosphorus free every feeding, calcium with d3 phosphorus free alternating with a multivitamin without d3
  • Watering - I have a automatic mister that goes on several times a day for two minutes and up. I see him drink sometimes. I recommend twice a day once before lights turn on and once before lights turn off for 2-5+ minutes. You can definitely overwater which causes bacteria to grow and it’s just not good
  • Fecal Description - Dark and wet but not liquidy. What do his urates look like?
  • History - I got him from CBreptile and he had to be about two-three weeks old. I never got him tested for parasites but I’m not sure if they did. So usually they’re not supposed to be sold until 3 months because of health problems and I don’t mean to scare you but I’ve heard some pretty bad stuff on CBreptile but this is why I recommend taking him to an experienced chameleon vet!
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - All mesh, reptibreeze XL 2x2x4
  • Lighting - Reptisun t5 24watt UVB and reptibasking 75w heat lamp. 8:30am-8:30pm
  • Temperature - Temp gun, 74-84
  • Humidity - I heave a hydrometer and it’s around 76% misting throughout the day automatically
  • Plants - Live plants, I have a pothos and cane plant I think you’ll need more foliage if that’s all you have
  • Placement - In my room, no traffic. It’s about 8 foot from the floor.
  • Location - Florida
Current Problem - he’s not using his tongue, he tries to stick it out but then puts it back in his mouth like he’s hesitant to actually fling it to grab the bugs. Does it look like somethings wrong with his tongue? My girl (veiled) when she’s trying to drink sometimes she’ll be too slow for the droplets and hesitate she always gets it though eventually but I’d recommend an experienced chameleon vet
Read through this please and someone will review it all when they can also I’m not an expert but is his eye supposed to look like that? https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
 

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MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
So the biggest thing that I see that could be affecting his tongue is your supplements. He needs to be getting a phosphorus free calcium without D3 with every feeding except one every week. Then you’ll use a calcium with D3 for that one feeding every other week and for that one feeding on the in between weeks, you’ll use a multivitamin. Right now he isn’t getting enough calcium and too much D3. D3 is fat soluble, meaning it isn’t as easily broken down and excreted and can build up to toxic levels. The visible signs of too much D3 are very similar to those of mbd. I’d say to hold off on giving any more D3 for at least a few weeks. Of course an experienced vet should really be the one to guide you. I don’t know where in Florida you are but this is an awesome and experienced chameleon vet in Orlando. https://myavho.com/ He’s well worth the drive and I think your best bet is to seek his help.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hello, my feedback and any questions will be in purple. I’ve also attached helpful links and the gutload chart you’ll want to use (it's updated) at the bottom of this post. Could you post a full pic of his cage (lights to bottom, please)? @cruz.m sorry if I repeat anything you’ve already said!

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Nosey be male panther chameleon. I think he’s about 6 months and I’ve had him for about 5 1/2 months.
  • Handling - I don’t handle him, he prefers to just be left alone.
  • Feeding - I feed him crickets, mealworms and calcium worms. As much as he wants so about 8-10 a day. But he hasn’t been eating as much due to this concern. I feed him Everyday and just leave them in there throughout the day so he can eat whenever he feels like it. I use the cricket quencher and food but I don’t gutload my mealworms. Mealworms shouldn’t be a staple feeder (not even as treats really). At his age, you’ll want to start cutting back to 5 crickets (or the equivalent of with different feeders) every other day soon, if not now. What gutload do you use? For future reference, plain water crystals from feeder sites are cheaper and better! Every feeder must always be properly gutloaded! Variety is best for both types of feeders and gutload ingredients! How long do you gutload your feeders for?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I dust them w calcium without d3 about 3 times a week and with d3 once a week, brand is repticalcium and rep-cal multivitamin. It might just be me, but it looks like he might have MBD (metabolic bone disease) from his pics.Use the calcium without D3 on every feeder every feeding, the calcium with D3 on one feeding every two weeks, and the multivitamin without D3 once every two weeks, as well. So say Sunday-Friday, you’ll use the calcium without D3, and on each Saturday, you’ll rotate between the calcium with D3 and the multivitamin without D3 weekly (calcium with D3 one week and next week use the multivitamin without D3 the next week, and repeat. Also, your multivitamin doesn’t have preformed Vitamin A in it, so you’ll either need to replace your multivitamin without D3 with one that contains preformed Vitamin A (like Zoo Med Reptivite without D3) or buy 10,000 IU preformed Vitamin A gel capsules and put a dot of the liquid on the back of a feeder once a month or as needed.
  • Watering - I have a automatic mister that goes on several times a day for two minutes and up. I see him drink sometimes. What are the exact times and lengths of the misting sessions?
  • Fecal Description - Dark and wet but not liquidy.
  • History - I got him from CBreptile and he had to be about two-three weeks old. I never got him tested for parasites but I’m not sure if they did. CB Reptile has a bad reputation for sick animals with parasites. Definitely take him to an experienced chameleon vet to get a fecal float done (and x-rays and bloodwork if needed). Make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you to the appointment, and drop off at least 2 more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - All mesh, reptibreeze XL 2x2x4
  • Lighting - Reptisun t5 24watt UVB and reptibasking 75w heat lamp. 8:30am-8:30pm What strength and age is the bulb? How far away is the bulb from his basking branch?
  • Temperature - Temp gun, 74-84 What are your overnight temps? You’ll want a digital thermometer with a probe (placed where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch) to get accurate basking temps.
  • Humidity - I heave a hydrometer and it’s around 76% misting throughout the day automatically That is too high for during the day. It should be between 50-60% during the day and can go up to 100% at night. Is the hygrometer digital or analog?
  • Plants - Live plants, I have a pothos and cane plant
  • Placement - In my room, no traffic. It’s about 8 foot from the floor.
  • Location - Florida
Current Problem - he’s not using his tongue, he tries to stick it out but then puts it back in his mouth like he’s hesitant to actually fling it to grab the bugs. It could be a number of things, a vet visit is best.

Here are the links and gutload image (make sure to read through every module and the panther species profile, as well as listening to as many podcasts as possible, from The Chameleon Academy, they have the most up-to-date and accurate info!):

https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
View attachment 291761His tongue is out like this! This just started today!!
Can you take a picture of your entire enclosure lighting down? Are you sure your using a T5 linear UVB fixture? What is the distance to basking?
You received feedback but you never responded and never answered any of the questions that were asked additionally.

We literally can not help you unless you are participating in the conversation and you are making the suggested changes.

This is a sign of MBD.. Incorrect UVB lighting/distance and incorrect supplements/schedule are directly linked to this.
 

Jchkayla

Member
Can you take a picture of your entire enclosure lighting down? Are you sure your using a T5 linear UVB fixture? What is the distance to basking?
You received feedback but you never responded and never answered any of the questions that were asked additionally.

We literally can not help you unless you are participating in the conversation and you are making the suggested changes.

This is a sign of MBD.. Incorrect UVB lighting/distance and incorrect supplements/schedule are directly linked to this.
Okay no need to be rude, I’m a busy person and try my best.
 

Jchkayla

Member
I’m taking him to a reptile place near me that can help him, they have experienced reptile vets and take in animals.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Okay no need to be rude, I’m a busy person and try my best.
I am not being rude. I am being honest. We see everyday here chameleons dying. The more time it takes for people to make changes the higher risk of serious health issues developing.

With the UVB. Do you have a branch below the fixture? Like where there are not plants covering the lighting for him to bask? If your using a T5HO fixture and a 5.0 bulb you need a distance to a branch directly below it 8 inches away for the proper UVB. UVB will not penetrate plants. It reduces in strength instead.

The lack of proper supplementation is a major risk. We have to use calcium without D3 at every feeding to balance out the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the feeder. Also the calcium helps them develop strong bones so they are not pulling the calcium out of their bones to balance the issue.
The rep cal herptivite does not contain D3 or Vitamin A. This is another major issue.

He needs a vet that knows reptiles. Blood work to see if this is an issue of MBD or vitamin A deficiency.
 

Jchkayla

Member
I am not being rude. I am being honest. We see everyday here chameleons dying. The more time it takes for people to make changes the higher risk of serious health issues developing.

With the UVB. Do you have a branch below the fixture? Like where there are not plants covering the lighting for him to bask? If your using a T5HO fixture and a 5.0 bulb you need a distance to a branch directly below it 8 inches away for the proper UVB. UVB will not penetrate plants. It reduces in strength instead.
Yes I have a branch without plants underneath the UVB.
The lack of proper supplementation is a major risk. We have to use calcium without D3 at every feeding to balance out the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the feeder. Also the calcium helps them develop strong bones so they are not pulling the calcium out of their bones to balance the issue.
The rep cal herptivite does not contain D3 or Vitamin A.
Okay, I have to get reptical without d3 and with vitamin A. Every pet store near me never has the one without D3 so I’ll look online.
This is another major issue.
He needs a vet that knows reptiles. Blood work to see if this is an issue of MBD or vitamin A deficiency.
I’m taking him into an experienced reptile vet
 

Jchkayla

Member
Yes I have a branch without plants underneath the UVB.

Okay, I have to get reptical without d3 and with vitamin A. Every pet store near me never has the one without D3 so I’ll look online.
This is another major issue.

I’m taking him into an experienced reptile vet
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Yes I have a branch without plants underneath the UVB.

Okay, I have to get reptical without d3 and with vitamin A. Every pet store near me never has the one without D3 so I’ll look online.
This is another major issue.

I’m taking him into an experienced reptile vet
Buy Reptivite with D3 version. It has vitamin A and calcium with D3. You would use this 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Then at every other feeding your going to dust with the calcium without D3.
This will put your supplementation in line with where it should be.
 

Jchkayla

Member
Buy Reptivite with D3 version. It has vitamin A and calcium with D3. You would use this 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Then at every other feeding your going to dust with the calcium without D3.
This will put your supplementation in line with where it should be.
Okay, which brand of calcium do you use without d3?
 
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