Head and tail turning pale almost white while basking

D.Wyeth

Member
So sometimes when my female panther chameleon is basking her head and tail appear pale almost white. I know that they change colour depending if they want to absorbs more or less heat. And I was just wondering if is a sign for anything like not humid enough for example.
Her skin also look dry is some places. Almost looks like its cracked but it isn’t.
the humidity in her during the day is about 50-60 and during the night it’s about 50-60 as well because it’s winter and I have a humidifier running for half of the night.
 

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rango123veiled

Established Member
this is a very normal occurrence however its not necessarily good, but is not deadly, its probably there basking temp is to hot
 

cham girl

Avid Member
Yep they get light when they’re overheated probably need less wattage on the basking light make sure you hydrate well when this occurs.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
I’m using normal 60 watt bulbs. And the temp is around 80-82
That’s a little hot, it should be 78-80*F at the max (measured with a digital thermometer with a probe, the probe placed where her casque/top of her back is when she’s on her basking branch). I doubt that’s why she’s acting acting like that, though. Could you fill out this form in as much detail as possible (including pics of her lights and her full enclosure-lights to bottom), please?

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

D.Wyeth

Member
That’s a little hot, it should be 78-80*F at the max (measured with a digital thermometer with a probe, the probe placed where her casque/top of her back is when she’s on her basking branch). I doubt that’s why she’s acting acting like that, though. Could you fill out this form in as much detail as possible (including pics of her lights and her full enclosure-lights to bottom), please?

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
  • Your Chameleon - Panther, female, she’s just under 5 months. I got her as a baby in October
  • Handling - I take her out a few times a week
  • Feeding - I’m feeding her crickets and today I bought some mealworms that I’m going to try to give her. I feed her everyday. I put in about 15 crickets. She usually eats all or most. I hit load them with lettuce and carrots
  • Supplements - I use repti calcium without d3 every feeding. Repti calcium with d3 every 2 weeks and reptivite with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks on alternating weeks.
  • Watering - I use reverse osmosis water in my automatic mister. It does odd every 1:15 because the humidity drops really fast and it doesn’t get the whole cage. And I also spray where she mainly drinks every few hours. The automatic mister runs for 1 minute
  • Fecal Description - Blackish brown. Looks pretty normal. Never been tested
  • History - no additional info

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - screen cage 24x24x48
  • Lighting - i use 2 dome lights with 60 watt bulbs and a 24 inch UVB bulb. The second dome light it just to help warm the cage up in the mornings. It gets turned off after about 2 hours.
  • Temperature - bottom of the cage ranges from 70-75 mainly. The basking spot is usually around 80.
  • Humidity - 50-60 during the day and night
  • Plants - no live plants in the cage but I have a Mass cane that she can go on outside of the cage
  • Placement - in my room. No vents or fans around it. I am in my room most of the day. The tip of the cage is about 7 feet high.
  • Location - Canada Ontario
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll also post helpful links and care images at the bottom. Could you post pics of her full cage please? Does she have a lay bin?

  • Your Chameleon - Panther, female, she’s just under 5 months. I got her as a baby in October
  • Handling - I take her out a few times a week What for?
  • Feeding - I’m feeding her crickets and today I bought some mealworms that I’m going to try to give her. I feed her everyday. I put in about 15 crickets. She usually eats all or most. I hit load them with lettuce and carrots Mealworms are a no-no for chams, so don’t feed them. Lettuce as a gutload isn’t good, depending on the type, and more gutload ingredients are needed. Add more gutload ingredients and other types of healthy feeders, as variety is key for your cham to get the max nutrients from all dffferent types of feeders and gutload! I’ve attached a gutload and feeder chart below.
  • Supplements - I use repti calcium without d3 every feeding. Repti calcium with d3 every 2 weeks and reptivite with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks on alternating weeks. Since your Reptivite has D3, don’t use the calcium with D3, just the calcium without D3 every feeding and the Reptivite with D3 once every two weeks for your supplements. How long have you been doing both D3 supplements (it could determine if you need to get the Reptivite without D3 to use instead of the one with D3 for a bit)?
  • Watering - I use reverse osmosis water in my automatic mister. It does odd every 1:15 because the humidity drops really fast and it doesn’t get the whole cage. And I also spray where she mainly drinks every few hours. The automatic mister runs for 1 minute So every hour and fifteen minutes it goes off for one minute? Daytime misting sessions need to be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes or longer. Try to only mist in the morning and at night for her daytime mistings when her cage is cooler if your humidity allows it. If it doesn’t, try to just do one session in the afternoon.
  • Fecal Description - Blackish brown. Looks pretty normal. Never been tested I would definitely take her to an experienced chameleon vet to get a fecal float done (checks for parasites, make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you to the appointment), as well as x-rays and bloodwork (if it’s safe enough) if the vet recommends them. Make sure to drop off at least 2 more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - no additional info

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - screen cage 24x24x48
  • Lighting - i use 2 dome lights with 60 watt bulbs and a 24 inch UVB bulb. The second dome light it just to help warm the cage up in the mornings. It gets turned off after about 2 hours. What is the brand, strength, and age of the linear UVB bulb? Is the fixture a T8 or T5 High Output? How far away is her basking branch from her UVB bulb and her heat bulb? Is the heat bulb white colored or something else? Do you use any other lights or heat sources or anything at night? What‘s the schedule for her lights?
  • Temperature - bottom of the cage ranges from 70-75 mainly. The basking spot is usually around 80. It should be 78-80*F at the max for her basking temp. What are your nighttime temps? How do you measure your temps?
  • Humidity - 50-60 during the day and night It can up to 100% at night using a cool-mist fogger/humidifier (as long as there is adequate airflow). Just make sure the humidifier, all of its tubes, and any other accessories used are properly cleaned thoroughly and often, as well as the output tube placed at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down (if you get one with tubes). How do you measure your humidity levels?
  • Plants - no live plants in the cage but I have a Mass cane that she can go on outside of the cage Why no live plants in the cage?
  • Placement - in my room. No vents or fans around it. I am in my room most of the day. The tip of the cage is about 7 feet high.
  • Location - Canada Ontario

Here are the links and images if you haven’t seen them already (make sure to read through every module and the panther species profile, as well as listening to as many podcasts as possible, from The Chameleon Academy, as they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
 

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D.Wyeth

Member
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll also post helpful links and care images at the bottom. Could you post pics of her full cage please? Does she have a lay bin?

  • Your Chameleon - Panther, female, she’s just under 5 months. I got her as a baby in October
  • Handling - I take her out a few times a week What for?
  • Feeding - I’m feeding her crickets and today I bought some mealworms that I’m going to try to give her. I feed her everyday. I put in about 15 crickets. She usually eats all or most. I hit load them with lettuce and carrots Mealworms are a no-no for chams, so don’t feed them. Lettuce as a gutload isn’t good, depending on the type, and more gutload ingredients are needed. Add more gutload ingredients and other types of healthy feeders, as variety is key for your cham to get the max nutrients from all dffferent types of feeders and gutload! I’ve attached a gutload and feeder chart below.
  • Supplements - I use repti calcium without d3 every feeding. Repti calcium with d3 every 2 weeks and reptivite with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks on alternating weeks. Since your Reptivite has D3, don’t use the calcium with D3, just the calcium without D3 every feeding and the Reptivite with D3 once every two weeks for your supplements. How long have you been doing both D3 supplements (it could determine if you need to get the Reptivite without D3 to use instead of the one with D3 for a bit)?
  • Watering - I use reverse osmosis water in my automatic mister. It does odd every 1:15 because the humidity drops really fast and it doesn’t get the whole cage. And I also spray where she mainly drinks every few hours. The automatic mister runs for 1 minute So every hour and fifteen minutes it goes off for one minute? Daytime misting sessions need to be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes or longer. Try to only mist in the morning and at night for her daytime mistings when her cage is cooler if your humidity allows it. If it doesn’t, try to just do one session in the afternoon.
  • Fecal Description - Blackish brown. Looks pretty normal. Never been tested I would definitely take her to an experienced chameleon vet to get a fecal float done (checks for parasites, make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you to the appointment), as well as x-rays and bloodwork (if it’s safe enough) if the vet recommends them. Make sure to drop off at least 2 more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - no additional info

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - screen cage 24x24x48
  • Lighting - i use 2 dome lights with 60 watt bulbs and a 24 inch UVB bulb. The second dome light it just to help warm the cage up in the mornings. It gets turned off after about 2 hours. What is the brand, strength, and age of the linear UVB bulb? Is the fixture a T8 or T5 High Output? How far away is her basking branch from her UVB bulb and her heat bulb? Is the heat bulb white colored or something else? Do you use any other lights or heat sources or anything at night? What‘s the schedule for her lights?
  • Temperature - bottom of the cage ranges from 70-75 mainly. The basking spot is usually around 80. It should be 78-80*F at the max for her basking temp. What are your nighttime temps? How do you measure your temps?
  • Humidity - 50-60 during the day and night It can up to 100% at night using a cool-mist fogger/humidifier (as long as there is adequate airflow). Just make sure the humidifier, all of its tubes, and any other accessories used are properly cleaned thoroughly and often, as well as the output tube placed at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down (if you get one with tubes). How do you measure your humidity levels?
  • Plants - no live plants in the cage but I have a Mass cane that she can go on outside of the cage Why no live plants in the cage?
  • Placement - in my room. No vents or fans around it. I am in my room most of the day. The tip of the cage is about 7 feet high.
  • Location - Canada Ontario

Here are the links and images if you haven’t seen them already (make sure to read through every module and the panther species profile, as well as listening to as many podcasts as possible, from The Chameleon Academy, as they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
She does have a lay bin.

I take her out and put her on the mass cane

I’ve been using both supplements for about 3-4 months

it’s a reptisun T5 High output and its brand new. She is 10 inches away. The heat bulb is an incandescent 60 watt. It’s the frosted glass one. So it’s not quite white. Lights turn on at 8 and turn off at 8.

I have a base board heater on at night to keep my room from dropping to low. On a really cold night it can get to 15 C. But normally it’s about 16-18 C.

I measure temp and humidity with digital sensors. They are that white box in the pictures.

there is no reason I don’t have live plants. I just don’t
 

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Flick boy

Avid Member
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll also post helpful links and care images at the bottom. Could you post pics of her full cage please? Does she have a lay bin?

  • Your Chameleon - Panther, female, she’s just under 5 months. I got her as a baby in October
  • Handling - I take her out a few times a week What for?
  • Feeding - I’m feeding her crickets and today I bought some mealworms that I’m going to try to give her. I feed her everyday. I put in about 15 crickets. She usually eats all or most. I hit load them with lettuce and carrots Mealworms are a no-no for chams, so don’t feed them. Lettuce as a gutload isn’t good, depending on the type, and more gutload ingredients are needed. Add more gutload ingredients and other types of healthy feeders, as variety is key for your cham to get the max nutrients from all dffferent types of feeders and gutload! I’ve attached a gutload and feeder chart below.
  • Supplements - I use repti calcium without d3 every feeding. Repti calcium with d3 every 2 weeks and reptivite with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks on alternating weeks. Since your Reptivite has D3, don’t use the calcium with D3, just the calcium without D3 every feeding and the Reptivite with D3 once every two weeks for your supplements. How long have you been doing both D3 supplements (it could determine if you need to get the Reptivite without D3 to use instead of the one with D3 for a bit)?
  • Watering - I use reverse osmosis water in my automatic mister. It does odd every 1:15 because the humidity drops really fast and it doesn’t get the whole cage. And I also spray where she mainly drinks every few hours. The automatic mister runs for 1 minute So every hour and fifteen minutes it goes off for one minute? Daytime misting sessions need to be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes or longer. Try to only mist in the morning and at night for her daytime mistings when her cage is cooler if your humidity allows it. If it doesn’t, try to just do one session in the afternoon.
  • Fecal Description - Blackish brown. Looks pretty normal. Never been tested I would definitely take her to an experienced chameleon vet to get a fecal float done (checks for parasites, make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you to the appointment), as well as x-rays and bloodwork (if it’s safe enough) if the vet recommends them. Make sure to drop off at least 2 more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - no additional info

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - screen cage 24x24x48
  • Lighting - i use 2 dome lights with 60 watt bulbs and a 24 inch UVB bulb. The second dome light it just to help warm the cage up in the mornings. It gets turned off after about 2 hours. What is the brand, strength, and age of the linear UVB bulb? Is the fixture a T8 or T5 High Output? How far away is her basking branch from her UVB bulb and her heat bulb? Is the heat bulb white colored or something else? Do you use any other lights or heat sources or anything at night? What‘s the schedule for her lights?
  • Temperature - bottom of the cage ranges from 70-75 mainly. The basking spot is usually around 80. It should be 78-80*F at the max for her basking temp. What are your nighttime temps? How do you measure your temps?
  • Humidity - 50-60 during the day and night It can up to 100% at night using a cool-mist fogger/humidifier (as long as there is adequate airflow). Just make sure the humidifier, all of its tubes, and any other accessories used are properly cleaned thoroughly and often, as well as the output tube placed at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down (if you get one with tubes). How do you measure your humidity levels?
  • Plants - no live plants in the cage but I have a Mass cane that she can go on outside of the cage Why no live plants in the cage?
  • Placement - in my room. No vents or fans around it. I am in my room most of the day. The tip of the cage is about 7 feet high.
  • Location - Canada Ontario

Here are the links and images if you haven’t seen them already (make sure to read through every module and the panther species profile, as well as listening to as many podcasts as possible, from The Chameleon Academy, as they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
I dont get the what for with handling ( if things need changed vet visit or generally building a rapport) for me personally a good trust relationship is essential.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
She does have a lay bin.

I take her out and put her on the mass cane

I’ve been using both supplements for about 3-4 months

it’s a reptisun T5 High output and its brand new. She is 10 inches away. The heat bulb is an incandescent 60 watt. It’s the frosted glass one. So it’s not quite white. Lights turn on at 8 and turn off at 8.

I have a base board heater on at night to keep my room from dropping to low. On a really cold night it can get to 15 C. But normally it’s about 16-18 C.

I measure temp and humidity with digital sensors. They are that white box in the pictures.

there is no reason I don’t have live plants. I just don’t
Okay, I just wanted to make sure she‘s getting positive interactions with handling. I would lay off on the D3 for a little bit, but @JacksJill will be better to give you info on that. Her basking branch should be 8-9” away from the UVB bulb for a UVI level of 3 at her basking branch. If you can afford it, definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5! It’ll give you precise UVI readings, tell you if an UVB bulb is defective, and let you know when to actually replace your UVB bulb (when the readings are cut in half)! Night temps are perfect! Your cage needs more branches (no moss covered branches or branches from toxic or sap-producing trees), vines (preferably live and no moss or Exo Terra fake vines), and plants (preferably live). Here are two great links for cage set-ups (I’ve also attached some great plant charts as a starter guide for which species are most commonly and successfully used):
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
I dont get the what for with handling ( if things need changed vet visit or generally building a rapport) for me personally a good trust relationship is essential.
Some people handle chams just to show them off or for themselves, I wanted to make sure the OP was doing positive interactions with her while handling, which he is.
 

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Mendez

Avid Member
I dont get the what for with handling ( if things need changed vet visit or generally building a rapport) for me personally a good trust relationship is essential.
I do. We don't know who comes on these forums so it is an important question to ask. If the owner responded with "To play with her" then we would recommend against it and let her know that chameleons don't like to play and can get stressed easily. It was a question to test the waters. But at least the owner has a direction with her stating "To build trust so I can take her to the vet in case of an emergency." At least she knows that chameleons don't play like other pets such as cats and dogs.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Though, and this is purely my opinion, I don't think that handling the cham to build trust 'in case of a vet visit' is a good reason for handling. You can build trust other ways such as simply feeding your chameleon and cleaning the enclosure. That way they understand that you are not there to hurt them. I do believe that the owner should get comfortable handling their cham in a way that doesn't startle him/her. Most people get nervous or act fidgety when trying to get a squirmy cham out of the cage. But there are simple ways of getting the shyest of chameleons to walk onto your hand without touching the cham and without much practice at all. All it takes is confidence on the owner's part. And once the owner gets confident getting their cham out of the cage easily, I don't think preparing them for the vet is valid anymore. I think it is fine to take a cham out of their cage when cleaning it (in most cases it is mandatory), or to let them get natural sunlight, or heck, just to handle them for a minute just because the owner wants to, but I don't think that any amount of handling is going to get them ready for the vet or have a significant impact.

Once again, this is only my opinion. I'm not telling you what to do, and I'm perfectly fine with your reasons for handling your cham. Heck, even I wouldn't listen to my advice if I were you. You are not harming your cham in the least bit and she looks happy and healthy. If I were you I'd keep doing what works. This is my opinion and not a hill that I want to die on. I really hope that I am conveying that I don't mean you ill-will. I can tell that you are a great owner and really care for your cham. I don't want that to change. Take care.
 

Mendez

Avid Member
Okay, I just wanted to make sure she‘s getting positive interactions with handling. I would lay off on the D3 for a little bit, but @JacksJill will be better to give you info on that. Her basking branch should be 8-9” away from the UVB bulb for a UVI level of 3 at her basking branch. If you can afford it, definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5! It’ll give you precise UVI readings, tell you if an UVB bulb is defective, and let you know when to actually replace your UVB bulb (when the readings are cut in half)! Night temps are perfect! Your cage needs more branches (no moss covered branches or branches from toxic or sap-producing trees), vines (preferably live and no moss or Exo Terra fake vines), and plants (preferably live). Here are two great links for cage set-ups (I’ve also attached some great plant charts as a starter guide for which species are most commonly and successfully used):
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html

Some people handle chams just to show them off or for themselves, I wanted to make sure the OP was doing positive interactions with her while handling, which he is.
Haha, you barely beat me to it!
 
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