There is some very good advice here, and I'm sure if you implement it it will help her out
. However, here is something I'd like to add.
I know the dealer you got them from. I don't know the full protocol they use for deparasitization but frankly I don't think the approach is really advisable. Some of the meds can do damage to an already weakened system, especially if they are given without good clinical picture and indication for treatment. For instance, if she had a high worm load, she could have mountains of worm corpses in her guts decomposing and causing her distress, that should/could have been treated differently. There's so much to consider with wild caughts. I see you mist her throughout the day. This species is a deep rainforest species. As such, they need a lot of water, or they need humidity to retain water. How much does she drink when you mist her? Ideally she will drink until she chooses not to. It might surprise you how thirsty she can be! Hydration is more important than feeding most of the time, for wild caughts, and especially for forest calumma species like this. The basking spot is likely a bit warm, as you mentioned. She probably doesn't even need a basking spot, so long as the area under the uvb light is somewhat warmer than the rest of the enclosure (so 80 or so). Some calummas bask, some don't-for a possibly dehydrated import, you might err on the side of caution and keep her cooler and wetter than you might otherwise. The damage they suffer due to dehydration during the import process is more than not eating, as they can go weeks without eating anything and exhibit no visible weight loss, but struggle to go a few days with minimal water.
Also, just a note on feeding of wild caught imports. Most chameleons, but Calumma species in particular can get obese very quickly. It can be hard to gauge, but they store excess fat in dangerous places (around organs, under skin etc.). Further, there is evidence that excess feeding and even stress from import (the study correlates cortisol levels with egg size) can cause the eggs to develop too big or too fast. There is the added concern that excess fat can actually block the oviduct to a degree and physically restrict the passage of eggs. A common mistake many folks make with imports is that they think they are emaciated and need to eat constantly to acclimate. What this often does is lead to a dangerous situation where a stressed, ovulating chameleon is overfed. Just something to keep in mind. I can't tell you how many times I have heard of or seen someone with a wild caught female F. lateralis, C. linotum, you name it, that had their animal die eggbound likely due to excessive feeding with the well-intentioned approach of helping them acclimate to captivity.
So with that said, eating a few bugs from time to time is nothing to be worried about
(Not that you were). Maybe avoid feeding her all she can eat, and focus on hydration above all else. I wish you the very best of luck with her! It's a beautiful species for sure.
