Force feeding

Salty

New Member
So, as some of you know I have been having some troubles getting my cham to eat. I have had him for a few days now and he has not been eating much. I have been really worried about his health and have recieved a lot of support both from people on the site and from Panther16. Dispite my attempts to get him to eat I can not get him interested in a proper diet so... He has been looking rather weak and I couldn't take it any more so today I took him to the vet.
I got on line and looked up local vets and started making phone calls. After contacting about 10 differant vets I settled on one in Columbia Mo. They seemed to have the most knowledge in my area so I wound up making the hour drive to the animal hospital.
When I got there the vet techs were all oogeling over him. Some of them even got out their cell phones to take pics of him. It was kind of cool that in a reputible animal hospital that is known for caring for tropical and unusual pets, they felt mine was worthy of a quick photo op. :)
Any way, the vet weighed him and looked him over. He said his grip is stronger than I thought it was and that he seemed to be in overall good health. He was not even conserned in running tests for parasites or testing for MBD or other disorders. (that made me really happy).
He said he seems to be in good health and that occasionally an animal that is shipped as far as he was may take a little longer to adjust to his new enviornment. He did say that I did well by bringing him in as I was conserned and that some simple force feeding and a few warm baths should snap him out of his non eating funk.
It is rather simple actually. He showed me how to force feed him and how to stimulate his bowl movements and said that he should be much more indipendant by next week. (again he commented on how pretty he was) :)
He gave me a small vial of liquid food that he mixed up and filled a one liter seringe with the food.
He then placed the syrenge (with no needle) at the side of his mouth and gently used it to open his mouth. He then incerted the syrenge a little further into his mouth in order to get it past his (breathing tube) as he described it to me and showed me where it is located... (it is rather close to the front of his mouth) you just need to put it a little further in so that he does not choke on it..... then slowly squeeze the syrenge so that the food goes in.
It is actually a little easier with a more agressive cham because they will open their mouth for you in order to bite the thing you are shoving into their mouth.. Mine is rather docile so you have to be a little more gentle and coaxing with him.
After showing me the simple procedure he told me that there would be no need to hospitalize him and I can easily do this at home.
He also suggested a couple of 15 minute baths over the next couple of days. He said that what I may need to do is make him up a little warm bath in my critter keeper (or anything else that is suitable for the task) just fill it with warm water to an appropriat level that is below his chin but make sure his belly is in the water. The warm water should stimulate his intestins and get a healthy bowl movement out of him.
The reason for the bowl movement is that once they poop, they are generally hungry again soooo... He will then want to eat. :)
Any way, I'm rather happy that the vet commented on how healthy he looked and that getting him eating should be a rather simple fix.
Also wanted to thank panther16 for the lengthy phone conversations with me and all the others who continue to lend support. You guys are awesome.
If anyone has experiance with force feeding or with the bath thing let me know I am always looking for good tips on making things run smoother.

(wow.. turned out to be a long post... almost think I should have made this a blog but I don't have enough experiance to start bloging yet. lol)
 
im sorry but i did not read what you posed; however, heres my thought on force feeding- yes.

i do it when nessary and its never done me wrong. some do buj juice wich i have doen aswell. if they need nutrition and arnt getting it thats worse than a little stress once a day. i also dont give my chams long to take food. they either get it or done. they used to dilly doddle and take 10mins but if i put my hands up now they both become alert and will imdiately eat.
 
Hi there, Im sure you have probably posted this before but i will need to see it. https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/ you can copy paste it here but in order to help i need to see the care provided. Pictures would be a great attribute to this thread.

Have you contacted where you bought him from?

Yes, I contacted the seller multiple times actually. He is always willing to help.
I'll post the q and A's for you in a sec.
 
1. He is a male blue bar ambilobe panther. He is 8 months old and has been in my care for 9 or 10 days now. He gets handled less than 5 minutes a day... some days not at all. With the exception of today because we went on a two hour round trip drive to the vet.

2. I have offered him crickets (three differant sizes) mealworms and superworms, silk worms, and hornworms. I have repashy supliments and also recieved some from panther16 gratis when I purchased him. He did not want to eat at first and I have only gotten him to eat the Big mealworms... when he wants to eat. Which has not been for 3 days now.

3. I use RODI water. (DI stands for De ionized) He gets watered 3 times a day by the rain maker, has had a couple of showers in my bathtub and he does like to drink rite from the water sprayer. (i like to do this.. it's kind of cool) I have not set up the timer yet for the watering .... just keeping an eye on him and keeping the humidity up. I did see him drink today after we got home (after his first force feeding)

4.I have only found one poop in his cage... it is a rather large cage though.... so there is probably more, it was a large piece of poop. Had a dark brown firm piece and some white..... (if I remember correctly) The vet said he does not think he needs to be tested for parisites.

5.The previous owner hand fed him often and he is verry friendly. It's almost like he actually likes people.Cage Info:

6. Cage is about four and a half feet tall. and the top of the cage is elivated to 7 feet in the air.. It is PVC and black aluminum screen. It's appx 2 and a half feet deep and wide....

7.Use T5 lighting 5.0 ad 65K. They are two footers. Also have another UVB 5.o that i have not put up yet... (that will be the second 5.0) I have a 150 wat basking bulb and I am going to set up another one tomorrow. ( I will be careful so he is not burned)

8. Basking temp is 85 to 90.... Ambient room temp stays at 71. I don't use night warmers or heaters as the room temp is 71. I use an eloctronic humidity and temp monitor.

9. Plants are 2 draceana trees and 2 spider plants.

10. There is a cealing fan that runs sometimes durring the day... it is about 10 feet from the cage. No air vents near it....Traffic is kind of low... he is in the corner of the living room by my bedroom... He can see movement in the living room but spends time basking and does not seem to mind.

11. I am located in Missouri... really humid here.

Current Problem - Does not seem to want to eat, not verry active as a result, seems to be weaker than I think he should be... (probably from not wanting to eat)
 
I would stop handling him as much as possible right now. 5 minutes a day is to much at this point.

Pm sent.
 
i agree with the water stimulating the cham to poop but i perfer to use the shower as it gets them a good drink and they always seem to poop in there. i think it may also be very stressfull to put a cham into water even an inch dep as it is not a normal occuarance for them. JMO
glad it was mostly good news
 
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