First crested gecko!

Gingero

Established Member
Good questions.

Enclosure: 12x12x20 Zilla glass enclosure with screen top (Organic top soil in the bottom, cork bark, snake plant, and pothos plant)
Food: Pangea fig and insects flavor
Lights: He doesn't have any lights besides natural sunlight
Misting: Once in the morning and once at night
Temperature: 73ish degrees
Humidity: My gauge got soaked and stopped working but I'd guess around 60-80%
 

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SharpShooter

Avid Member
The enclosure itself will be way too small very soon I'm afraid. Minimum 450x450x600mm. Also provide vines/branches for climbing and whilst waiting for live plants to grow, add some fake to give him cover and more climbing opportunities.

Cresties, like chams need UVB lighting! They also need a daylight bulb, both on a timer, 12 on 12 off.

They need an ambient temperature of 75 degrees and a heat gradient in the enclosure. For a crestie, this is best done with a heat mat on the side of viv and controlled by a thermostat. On 24/7 or you can lower temps at night if the room temp doesn't drop too much.

Cresties also need live food. Smaller crickets, gutloaded and dusted with calcium every 2 or 3 days. Just like chams, they can get MBD, hence the UVB as well. Younger cresties in particular love to hunt live prey. They will also take a small amount of fruit, preferably mashed.

Water should be available all the time plus misting to keep the humidity around 60-80.

I assume this was an impulse purchase from a pet shop rather than pre planned?
 

Arpretty

Established Member
The enclosure itself will be way too small very soon I'm afraid. Minimum 450x450x600mm. Also provide vines/branches for climbing and whilst waiting for live plants to grow, add some fake to give him cover and more climbing opportunities.

Cresties, like chams need UVB lighting! They also need a daylight bulb, both on a timer, 12 on 12 off.

They need an ambient temperature of 75 degrees and a heat gradient in the enclosure. For a crestie, this is best done with a heat mat on the side of viv and controlled by a thermostat. On 24/7 or you can lower temps at night if the room temp doesn't drop too much.

Cresties also need live food. Smaller crickets, gutloaded and dusted with calcium every 2 or 3 days. Just like chams, they can get MBD, hence the UVB as well. Younger cresties in particular love to hunt live prey. They will also take a small amount of fruit, preferably mashed.

Water should be available all the time plus misting to keep the humidity around 60-80.

I assume this was an impulse purchase from a pet shop rather than pre planned?
Love the information you provided. I also have a crested gecko. He was another reptile given to me from owners who did not want to care for him, as my chameleon also was. The previous owners used a red bulb heat lamp to provide heat; however, I’ve read conflicting information about using these as a heat source with cresties. Particularly concerning their vision. What is your opinion, out of curiosity? I will be switching to an adhesive heating pad and am waiting for a linear reptisun t5 HO fixture & bulb to arrive in the mail.

I do agree, the 12x12x20 is unfortunately much too small. My guy came to me in a 12x12x24 - he is 4 years old and a decent size. He could hardly move around. I now have him in an 18x18x24 and the difference in his overall behavior is astounding.
 

SharpShooter

Avid Member
Love the information you provided. I also have a crested gecko. He was another reptile given to me from owners who did not want to care for him, as my chameleon also was. The previous owners used a red bulb heat lamp to provide heat; however, I’ve read conflicting information about using these as a heat source with cresties. Particularly concerning their vision. What is your opinion, out of curiosity? I will be switching to an adhesive heating pad and am waiting for a linear reptisun t5 HO fixture & bulb to arrive in the mail.

I do agree, the 12x12x20 is unfortunately much too small. My guy came to me in a 12x12x24 - he is 4 years old and a decent size. He could hardly move around. I now have him in an 18x18x24 and the difference in his overall behavior is astounding.
I've never used red light on any of my reptiles 'just in case'. I'm sure they are sold to the owners rather than FOR THE ANIMAL.

I don't know if it's true but my own theory is that because red light is the best for humans to maintain night vision (anyone in the forces will tell you this), its simply become known as a colour many animals can't see and so good for night lighting of enclosures, without us really knowing the effects on all species we keep.

You can use a normal bulb or heat bulb for a crestie but we need the temperature gradient in there. Stick on heat mats are ideal for cresties although unsightly depending on where you viv is placed. I always use thermostats on every heat source for all our animals to maintain correct temperature. I also run 2 to 3 (depending on enclosure size) digital thermometer/hydrometers. One at the basking spot, along with the thermostat probe and 1 at the coldest point (plus 1 in the mid point on larger setups).

How long had your little fella been stuck in that little glass box before you got him? At least he's now getting what he deserves and as you've seen yourself, it's changed his behaviour for the better.

I'm NOT A REPTILE EXPERT! I do though research before getting any animal and spend whatever is needed to ensure they have everything they need. If you can't provide what's needed, for whatever reason, DON'T GET THE BLOODY ANIMAL!
 

Arpretty

Established Member
I've never used red light on any of my reptiles 'just in case'. I'm sure they are sold to the owners rather than FOR THE ANIMAL.

I don't know if it's true but my own theory is that because red light is the best for humans to maintain night vision (anyone in the forces will tell you this), its simply become known as a colour many animals can't see and so good for night lighting of enclosures, without us really knowing the effects on all species we keep.

You can use a normal bulb or heat bulb for a crestie but we need the temperature gradient in there. Stick on heat mats are ideal for cresties although unsightly depending on where you viv is placed. I always use thermostats on every heat source for all our animals to maintain correct temperature. I also run 2 to 3 (depending on enclosure size) digital thermometer/hydrometers. One at the basking spot, along with the thermostat probe and 1 at the coldest point (plus 1 in the mid point on larger setups).

How long had your little fella been stuck in that little glass box before you got him? At least he's now getting what he deserves and as you've seen yourself, it's changed his behaviour for the better.

I'm NOT A REPTILE EXPERT! I do though research before getting any animal and spend whatever is needed to ensure they have everything they need. If you can't provide what's needed, for whatever reason, DON'T GET THE BLOODY ANIMAL!
I’ve read that the red light provides an adequate heat source, but is mostly used for the owner to be able to see the animal at night. Perfect example of “for the owner, not the reptile” :)

He was in that little box for his whole four years of life! Now he’s jumping and climbing around like crazy.

And I absolutely agree with your last statement!!!!! This is why I feel strongly about boycotting Petco/PetSmart when it comes to the sale of chameleons. I wonder sometimes if there’s a way to prevent them from selling these animals. Their stores are stocked with only the bare minimum, often low quality materials for a juvenile animal. Then you have people walking out of the store with a chameleon and a mini chameleon kit, thinking they’ll be fine. It’s a wake up call when you realize the money and care that goes in to providing your animal with optimum care. I’ve seen this type of phenomenon evolve as a full-blown crisis when it comes to horses.
 

SharpShooter

Avid Member
I’ve read that the red light provides an adequate heat source, but is mostly used for the owner to be able to see the animal at night. Perfect example of “for the owner, not the reptile” :)

He was in that little box for his whole four years of life! Now he’s jumping and climbing around like crazy.

And I absolutely agree with your last statement!!!!! This is why I feel strongly about boycotting Petco/PetSmart when it comes to the sale of chameleons. I wonder sometimes if there’s a way to prevent them from selling these animals. Their stores are stocked with only the bare minimum, often low quality materials for a juvenile animal. Then you have people walking out of the store with a chameleon and a mini chameleon kit, thinking they’ll be fine. It’s a wake up call when you realize the money and care that goes in to providing your animal with optimum care. I’ve seen this type of phenomenon evolve as a full-blown crisis when it comes to horses.
Thank god I avoided the horse! My daughter wanted her own but I knew I'd be the one saddled (pun intended) with the hard work, never mind the costs lol.

As it stands, we recently lost our dog of 15 years but the animal count is;
3 Rabbits
1 Guinea pig
(All with large, insulated hutches and very large free running areas with free access any time)
1 Bearded Dragon (adult female)
1 Crestie female (bioactive setup)
1 Brazillian Rainbow Boa
1 Panther male (bioactive setup)
1 Panther female (bioactive setup)
1 Leopard Gecko male
2 Marine reef tanks (running for over 10 years)

1 large overdraft and a minimum 2 hours a day, 7 days a week on pet care!

So yes, I do get really pissed off with pet stores of all sizes simply looking for a sale but also with owners who do no research and buy animals on a whim.
 
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