Few questions before my new panther cham arrives??

[k6gsxr600]

This will be my first Chameleon I just have a few questions regarding a few different things.

First, he is 5-6 months old. When he arrives how long should i wait to feed him? Right away? The next day? I have herd both and even a few days so I'm not really sure.

Second, should i only feed him crickets if so how many and/or should i also feed something else such as meal worms and if so how many?

Third, How often can you or should you handle a chameleon? My friend has one and has him out of the cage handling him constantly and his seems fine. Its about 2 years old.

If anyone has any other helpful tips for me anything would be greatly appreciated.

Just a little info on my set up.
16.5x16.5x20 all aluminum cage, 150 ceramic heat emitter, .5UVB bulb in dual dome fixture, plenty of vines and foliage as well as a moss bottom. Also thinking about getting a automatic misting system.
Again any information anyone can provide me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[carol5208]

you could feed him right away! As soon as I put mine in his cage after he was shipped to me I threw some crickets in and he ate immdediately. some chams don't eat right away so don't freak if he doesn't. At 5-6 months he should be eating about 10-15 med crickets a day. They can also eat small supers, hornworms and silks that are small too just to name a few. Mealworms are ok but not the best in nutritional value versus the other worms. As far as handling I would wait a few weeks and give your cham time to settle in and then maybe give a try at approaching him in the cage to climb on your hand or a small branch. If he seems stressed then don't push the issue. You can also try hand feeding to get him used to you. What are you using for a basking light? If you don't have one then get about a 40-50 watt regular housebulb for basking. You don't need any type of other heat unless your temps plan on getting below 60 or so. You should also have a 5.0 reptisun tube light.

 

[k6gsxr600]

I have a repsun 5.0 bulb but its not a tube. Its one that fits in in a dome fixture. Looks more like a regular light bulb then a tubular one. I have the dual light fixture on a hanger above the cage. Do i need another bulb other then that?

 

[carol5208]

Its up to you to not use the tube. The compact lights have been known to cause eye issues for some chams. Some keepers use them with no problems but some have. just keep an eye on your cham and if he starts closing his eyes during the day or his eyes look irritated, then it probably is your bulb causing it. Most of us use the tube and none of us ever have any problems. Well, yes, you need some type of basking bulb besides the UVB light. If the light fixture holds another bulb then just get a 40-50 watt or so and use that for the basking bulb.

 

[k6gsxr600]

Ok, i will definitely keep an eye on him and any sign of irritation i will switch immediately. This may be a dumb question but what is the basking light for? I am kind of going off of what my friend has done with his panther. He has a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter and the same repsun bulb i have. No other bulb. Again thanks for the help.

 

[Silkyslim]

The basking light provides an area of higher temp then the rest of the cage. It allows the cham to disgest his food and also charge himself up to go about the day. I also believe that a basking bulb provides parts of the light spectrum that UVB alone cant reach; Assuming you want to recreate "natural" sunlight as close as possible.

I am sure there is much more to it as well. From what I have gathered the ceramic heaters are only good for providing warmth during the night if your temps drop below the consensual "safe" level. (60-65 generally)

 

[carol5208]

So when does your friend run the heat emitter? During the day? They need a basking spot to help them warm up and digest their food. How long has your friend had his cham with no basking light?

 

[Dawniegirl]

I'm a newbie myself, so take my advise w/ a grain of salt but I'm wondering about the "moss bottom". Most people say you should leave the bottom bare. Good luck w/ your new cham & make sure to post pics! Congrats

 

[Julirs]

A 150 watt ceramic heat emitter will MELT YOUR CHAM. Seriously, that is way too much heat for that size of cage and not meant for a chameleon. Chameleons associate white light with basking heat, so go with a 60 watt lightbulb. Hopefully you have a digital thermometer-too many people make the mistake of using cheap analog dial style thermometers that do NOT give you any idea of how hot your basking spot is. Some of the newer coil compact UVB's are considered safe-what kind do you have. Also, the dual dome fixtures really limit you in placing your bulbs. Do you have live plants in your cage? Have you researched supplements and gut loading? Not all chams will tolerate handling and excessive handling is not healthy for any chameleon.

 

[kinyonga]

Here's some information you might like to read.....
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/

 

[k6gsxr600]

My friend has had his chameleon for about 2 years with only a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter and a 5.0 reptisun bulb. No "basking bulb". He leaves his heat emitter on all day and night. We live in upstate NY so its not warm here. His cage is even smaller then mine. So far he is doing fine. He ate all 7 crickets i gave him and is roaming around his cage. He gets angry when you reach in the cage or mist water in the cage but i assume thats normal at first. I assume he will adapt to me and calm down as time goes on and he gets used to everything.

 

[carol5208]

ditto on the removal of the moss. There was someone on here yesterday, whose cham injested moss when it went to shoot at a cricket. It was choking and acting strangely afteward. Leave the cage bare at the bottom. It may not look as nice but it is safer for your chamleon.

 

[carol5208]

My friend has had his chameleon for about 2 years with only a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter and a 5.0 reptisun bulb. No "basking bulb". He leaves his heat emitter on all day and night. We live in upstate NY so its not warm here. His cage is even smaller then mine. So far he is doing fine. He ate all 7 crickets i gave him and is roaming around his cage. He gets angry when you reach in the cage or mist water in the cage but i assume thats normal at first. I assume he will adapt to me and calm down as time goes on and he gets used to everything.

what about the summers? You are saying you leave a 150 watt heater on all summer? What are your temps or your friends temps? They gotta be way too hot.

 

[Rockalita]

ditto on the removal of the moss. There was someone on here yesterday, whose cham injested moss when it went to shoot at a cricket. It was choking and acting strangely afteward. Leave the cage bare at the bottom. It may not look as nice but it is safer for your chamleon.

That was my chameleon who ate the moss and i agree take it out!!!

 

[warpdrive]

ok, I'll keep this simple.

I'm from NY. I don't care if you see Niagra falls out your windows, take that 150w heat crap out.
your room temp is never that low to need it. your room temps should be no lower then 70F durring the day and a simple household 40w bulb will be fine for you. basking temps at that age should be between 80F and 84F.
if by chance your room temps are lower then 70F durring the winter (or summer with the Ac on) then fix it. don't let your new baby have too cold an environment. a hotter bulb is NOT the answer. fixing your room temps is the answer.

once he hits about 1 year old you can start trying a 60w bulb. you need a standard light bulb as it not only give off heat but also UVA light that they need.
I don't remember what you are using for a UVB light, but if it isn't a reptisun 5.0 liner tube light then try to get that.

sorry I'm tired, but if it wasn't said already, you will need more then just crickets to keep your guy healthy and happy.
try silkworms, butterworms, hornworms and BB flys as well as the crickets.
do a search on proper gutloading of your feeders and learn what and how to dust them with supliments.

above all, keep your cage bottom bare untill you understand the pifalls better and can then deside what to use if you must use something.

don't forget you live in an ultra low humidity area for most of the year and may need to cover part of your cage to hold humidity in.
you will almost surly need to use a cool mist room humidifier for 6 to 9 months of the year to keep the humidity up in your chameleon's room.

I wish you luck and hope that you will stay and ask more questions.
we are here to help.

Harry

 

[k6gsxr600]

Thanks for the info on the moss. Ill get that out right away. As for the heat emitter the digital thermometer I have has yet to reach 85 degrees yet and its been on 24/7. Is been staying about 77- 80 in there tops. So I don't know how a 40-60 watt light bulb will keep it warm enough in there for him. Thanks again for all the info.