Fan Air Duct for Glass Enclosure

[BigSkyCham]

I am in the early stages of a glass enclosure build. It is 36w 18d 48h designed for a male panther.

I am creating a planted background with branches, carbonized cork, cork, and the least amount of great stuff/silicone as possible.

I built an air duct that has a 1” x 24” intake. The outlet is a 120mm computer fan that will pull air up from the bottom of the tank and exhaust it out the screen top. Pics below.

Is this overkill on trying to overcome stagnant air? The doors are bypass sliding doors and I can also keep them open a crack too. Or should I scrap the whole duct to allow more climbing /perch/ hiding space?

I am in northwest Montana. Indoors the rh is usually 25-35% year round.

Full duct:

Side view:

Top:

 

[MissSkittles]

I do like the idea, however most just sit the fan on the top screen of the enclosure, pulling the air from inside to the outside.

 

[Carlton]

I do like the idea, however most just sit the fan on the top screen of the enclosure, pulling the air from inside to the outside.

Agree. A fan sitting on the cage top blowing across the cage will create a chimney effect that will circulate the cage air. The fan's flow will pull warmer air out of the upper portions of the cage. Cooler air from the lower areas of the cage will rise to replace it. That's what you want. I'm sure designing and cobbling that air duct together was a fun project, but probably more effort than necessary . Some owners in warmer climates create a small screened/louvered (to keep substrate and feeders in) vent in one of the glass panels low down near the cage bottom too.

 

[nightanole]

Um its going to be pulling the cool moist air from the bottom of the glass cage and exhausting it out into the room.

That means all the hot dry air from the top of the cage is going to be sucked down.

While i like the idea, id flip the fan around and have it push air into the bottom of the cage to create natural confection. Depending on your environment this may even help with reducing mold growth.

 

[BigSkyCham]

Um its going to be pulling the cool moist air from the bottom of the glass cage and exhausting it out into the room.

That means all the hot dry air from the top of the cage is going to be sucked down.

While i like the idea, id flip the fan around and have it push air into the bottom of the cage to create natural confection. Depending on your environment this may even help with reducing mold growth.

The fan will run on a timer, turning on to help move air. It won’t run continuously. My understanding is it’s important not to have stagnant air.
The duct will pull air from the bottom just above leaf litter and out.

I don’t want to push outside air into the viv as the room air will be dry (30% RH). I believe the glass enclosure will definitely maintain the humidity needed. There is a 1/4” gap between the both sets of doors.

I’m struggling to understand how thermal dynamics work within a glass viv.

 

[BigSkyCham]

Agree. A fan sitting on the cage top blowing across the cage will create a chimney effect that will circulate the cage air. The fan's flow will pull warmer air out of the upper portions of the cage. Cooler air from the lower areas of the cage will rise to replace it. That's what you want. I'm sure designing and cobbling that air duct together was a fun project, but probably more effort than necessary . Some owners in warmer climates create a small screened/louvered (to keep substrate and feeders in) vent in one of the glass panels low down near the cage bottom too.

I see you are in AK…what type of enclosure do you use?

If you are near the coast I assume the humidity is high but perhaps your home heating in winter dries the air out.

 

[Carlton]

I see you are in AK…what type of enclosure do you use?

If you are near the coast I assume the humidity is high but perhaps your home heating in winter dries the air out.

I've only kept one cham since moving to AK (one CBB K. fischeri) but no longer have any. Getting a decent variety of live feeders is next to impossible and vet support is next to nothing. Lost the fischeri to an infection I would have had to fly him to Seattle to treat. No way I'm going to take that chance again. Home heating most of the year because of a cold climate is a big issue, though I happen to have lots of experience dealing with that. Before moving to AK, at one time I had 8 chams of 4 species in high elevation CO. Ultrasonic foggers, misting systems, hand spraying, drippers, adjustable plastic sheeting on screen cages, dense foliage & cage substrates, all played their parts. Sometimes all at the same time. The only thing I haven't used was a bioactive substrate.

 

[LizardLurkin]

I concur; getting feeders to Alaska in the winter time is actually impossible, and you have to go to the city for them every month...Driving that harrowing and long road back and forth same day in sometimes less than ideal conditions.
Dubiaroaches.com also now charges a flat shipping rate of 35 entire whole US dollars to ship to Alaska now

 

[MissSkittles]

Are you able to breed at least some of your own feeders? You would need heat mats for them, but you’d never have to worry about running out. While I’ve given up on breeding crickets, I can say that roaches, superworms, wax worms and mealworms (for other reptiles you might have) are super easy. Not so easy, but doable is silkworms. Maybe even grasshoppers too - no idea how those are bred.

 

[LizardLurkin]

I am really considering it now. With roaches, though, I'd be afraid of developing allergies. I've read quite a bit of people that deal with them frequently getting terribly allergic and wouldn't want to risk cutting out such a good feeder!
Silkworms do sound trickier with the diapause their eggs need, and how cleanly you need to keep things too.
For now I've just been buying a large order of roaches to get through the winter, and picking up crickets from the city when we visit. If I keep getting critters I might have to become a bug parent though

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ve found that I am allergic to just about all of the bugs, but it’s stuffy nose and itchy watery eye severity. I can handle them, clean their bins and all that, but I have to wash my hands very well after and for those in a bran substrate, I wear a surgical type mask. I thought initially it was the bran, as any time I had to mix up Metamucil for a patient, I’d get a miserable allergic reaction. Heaven forbid I accidentally touch any part of my face after touching a silkworm though. Ugh!

 

[LizardLurkin]

Wow, you're so strong, dealing with bug allergies for all your little animals. I don't want to derail the topic too much but I'll read up on bug breeding threads and think about if I have the willpower haha

 

[BigSkyCham]

Wow, you're so strong, dealing with bug allergies for all your little animals. I don't want to derail the topic too much but I'll read up on bug breeding threads and think about if I have the willpower haha

No worries about any hijack….i started clean up crew colonies of Dairy Cow Isopods, powder mix, and springtails.

I bought some bins to breed dubia roaches. I think I should start the dubia colony now as it takes 3-5 months before I can feed from it. I’m aiming to be ready to purchase a panther by late summer/ early fall.

Will a colony of dubias for a single panther produce too many bugs? I have a 7 gallon bin which is super smooth/glossy on the inside and a 12 gallon bin which is smooth but a matte finish. I’m really curious as to how many escapes happen with the roaches. When I had dart frogs it took my wife a bit to warm up to fruit flies in her wine glass. I’m pretty sure she won’t be down with roaches escaping.