Falling, help

Eshelton3

Member
I’m not sure the forest 6% bulb is the right one but it might be. It also looks like you already have a plant light bulb. Does your light fixture hold both your uvb light and the plant light? Maybe your plants just need to be watered.
No it’s just a single bulb that I bought for the T5 HO fixture. I took the plant light out and replaced it with the Arcaida bulb
 

Lindasjackson

Chameleon Enthusiast
In the picture of the temp and humidity the humidity is very high for during the day I think but not sure because you have a different species of chameleon than I do.
 

Eshelton3

Member
The sleeping could be a concern.
Has she been tested for parasites?
No I haven’t tested her for parasites. I just got her. I figured I would give her a bit to settle before transporting her to a vet. But if I have to I will. I’m not sure if she was tested for parasites before hand before me
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
I agree that a vet visit and testing for parasites would be prudent. Do you already have a vet in mind? If not, where are you based?

6% Arcadia is correct. How do you measure the humidity? Are those numbers highest and lowest? Can you tell me what the range is during the day versus during the night?
 

Eshelton3

Member
In the picture of the temp and humidity the humidity is very high for during the day I think but not sure because you have a different species of chameleon than I do.
I used sensor that’s on the inside of the cage because it’s waterproof. So the outside is the actual temp for the cage not outside. I also printed this from chameleon academy care that says night should be 60-70 and night time humidity is 75%~100%. Is that not right? I even printed out this to use a a reference. I’m trying so hard 😔
 

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Eshelton3

Member
I agree that a vet visit and testing for parasites would be prudent. Do you already have a vet in mind? If not, where are you based?

6% Arcadia is correct. How do you measure the humidity? Are those numbers highest and lowest? Can you tell me what the range is during the day versus during the night?
Usually at night it will drop down to 67 F and I mist before hand so the humidity can be higher at night for her. During the day it’s around 73 F and 49-57 humidity
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
I used sensor that’s on the inside of the cage because it’s waterproof. So the outside is the actual temp for the cage not outside. I also printed this from chameleon academy care that says night should be 60-70 and night time humidity is 75%~100%. Is that not right? I even printed out this to use a a reference. I’m trying so hard 😔
Chameleon Academy is accurate no worries. :) It's just that sometimes the tools we use aren't the most accurate. So for example you said the hygrometer you have says outside temp but those numbers are actually measuring the inside of the cage. I just wanted to make sure I was reading it correctly.

The temp gun measures surface temperature. You can use those to get a sense of the temp gradient in your cage. Probes are better for assessing the air temp at a basking branch.
 

Eshelton3

Member
Usually at night it will drop down to 67 F and I mist before hand so the humidity can be higher at night for her. During the day it’s around 73 F and 49-57 humidity
I looked at 3 vets in my area. I figured after a few weeks I could make a decision on that. I live in Virginia Beach, VA.
 

Lindasjackson

Chameleon Enthusiast
I used sensor that’s on the inside of the cage because it’s waterproof. So the outside is the actual temp for the cage not outside. I also printed this from chameleon academy care that says night should be 60-70 and night time humidity is 75%~100%. Is that not right? I even printed out this to use a a reference. I’m trying so hard 😔
Yes, for night time that is correct.
 

Eshelton3

Member
Chameleon Academy is accurate no worries. :) It's just that sometimes the tools we use aren't the most accurate. So for example you said the hygrometer you have says outside temp but those numbers are actually measuring the inside of the cage. I just wanted to make sure I was reading it correctly.

The temp gun measures surface temperature. You can use those to get a sense of the temp gradient in your cage. Probes are better for assessing the air temp at a basking branch.
I have one of those too but someone told me it wasn’t accurate so I took it out. It’s this……
 

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bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
I looked at 3 vets in my area. I figured after a few weeks I could make a decision on that. I live in Virginia Beach, VA.

We have a few vet threads on here where people recommend vets they know actually work well with chameleons, if you want to cross compare to your list.
I have one of those too but someone told me it wasn’t accurate so I took it out. It’s this……
Correct those aren't accurate. Haha this is a great example of the whole "some tools aren't accurate" point.

The hygrometer you have measures temperature as well right? Can you use its temp probe to measure heat at the basking branch? That is the most important temp especially for girls since heat + food husbandry will impact the size of their egg clutches.

What are you feeding her, what are they gutloaded with, and by what method to you deliver the food? A bowl?
 

Eshelton3

Member
We have a few vet threads on here where people recommend vets they know actually work well with chameleons, if you want to cross compare to your list.

Correct those aren't accurate. Haha this is a great example of the whole "some tools aren't accurate" point.

The hygrometer you have measures temperature as well right? Can you use its temp probe to measure heat at the basking branch? That is the most important temp especially for girls since heat + food husbandry will impact the size of their egg clutches.

What are you feeding her, what are they gutloaded with, and by what method to you deliver the food? A bowl?
Definitely would love the vet thread. I have a Aculite weather system that measures temperature and humidity. I also have the zoo Med probe one as well. I put my hand up there too before to see if it was way too hot but it felt fine to me. This is what I have for the supplements. I bought stuff like kale, sweet potatoes, and carrots for the gutload. I have crickets, dubias, and Phoenix worms. I give her a little bowl I have. I read don’t use tongs they are dangerous. Sorry I’m a very visual person I feel like if people can actually see then they can assist me better
 

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Eshelton3

Member
I think the priority is setting things up in a way that makes her feel secure. Once she feels secure, she won't be so stressed. @Lindasjackson suggested that you get a good centerpiece plant, I agree that'd be helpful. Read this for detailed advice and plant options https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/

And, answer @kinyonga 's questions, she has a wealth of knowledge. We can do a full husbandry form review as well. You just copy/paste from the "how to ask for help" thread pinned to the top of the Health forum and post your answers here.
I’m completing the form now for the review.
 

Eshelton3

Member
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - panther chameleon , Female, 3 months old. she has been in my care for 3 days.
  • Handling - I never have even touched her. When I rec her I looked at her real quick through the container and I opened it and let her walk out on a branch.
  • Feeding - i am feeding her crickets, Dubai’s, and phoenix worms? i put in about 7 crickets, 2 Dubai’s, and one phoenix worm ? i feed her about 8:30am every day. I gutloaded my bugs with kale, sweet potatoe, and carrots.
  • Supplements - I use Pangea Cal without D3 and I use zoo med repitative multivitamin with D3. I used without D3 every single feed and I planned on using the multivitamin with D3 15 days after I got her. I got her 3 days ago so I haven’t made it far yet.
  • Watering - I used a hand pump mister for watering. I mist twice daily before turning on the lights and after I turn the lights off. I have not seen the chameleon drinking.
  • Fecal Description - she has used the bathroom twice and they were brown hard but not too hard and the tip was white. she has never been tested for parasites from me yet.
  • History - she seems pretty Skittish and seems to hide and sleep a lot.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - I have a reptibreeze XL screened that is 24x24x48. I also wrapped it on 3 sides with a shower curtain to retain temp and humidit.
  • Lighting - see pictures i included. I turn the lights on at 7:30am
  • Temperature - basking spot is 79 F, middle is about 70 F, and the bottom is 68 F.Lowest overnight temp Is 67 F. i measure with an sculpted weather system that has a thermometer and hygrometer With a sensor to that is weather proof. I also have a zoo med probe sensor as well as a thrive digital hygrometer and a combo temp\ hygrometer from thrive as well.
  • Humidity - During the day it about. I maintain these levels by using a shower and it’s on all 3 sides. Also if the humidity isn’t high enough during the day I mist.
  • Plants - i use live plants and fake vines. I also use real branches and wooden dowlels. I have a spider plant, pothos, and a china doll.
  • Placement - my cage is located in my den and it isn’t that close to a vent. there are no fans around and I don’t think it’s in a high traffic area.At the bottom of the floor to the top of the cage heightmis about 7~ to maybe 7.5 feet.
  • Location - im located in Virginia Beach, Va

Current Problem - The current problem I’m concerned about is she keeps falling from the screen from freaking out from me putting her food bowl in her cage. I’m scared she is going to hurt herself. Also she sleeps during the day off and on.
 

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bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Definitely would love the vet thread. I have a Aculite weather system that measures temperature and humidity. I also have the zoo Med probe one as well. I put my hand up there too before to see if it was way too hot but it felt fine to me. This is what I have for the supplements. I bought stuff like kale, sweet potatoes, and carrots for the gutload. I have crickets, dubias, and Phoenix worms. I give her a little bowl I have. I read don’t use tongs they are dangerous. Sorry I’m a very visual person I feel like if people can actually see then they can assist me better

Here's the vet thread https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/area-by-area-country-vet-list.32880/ and you can use this https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

The supplements look good. You want to use the phosphorus free calcium powder for every feeding except 2 times per month when you use the Reptivite multivitamin with D3.

Here's a couple food and gutload images - kale binds calcium so it's good to use occasionally but you want a staple leafy green like mustard or turnip greens. Crickets, dubias, and BSFL (aka calci or phoenix worms) are all good. You could try hornworms or super worms to build is trust or silkworms as another staple. If the crickets get out in the enclosure and she doesn't eat them leave some food on the bottom of the cage for them. They will bite chameleons when they get hungry.


chameleon-gutload.jpg

chameleon-food.jpg
 

Eshelton3

Member
Here's the vet thread https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/area-by-area-country-vet-list.32880/ and you can use this https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

The supplements look good. You want to use the phosphorus free calcium powder for every feeding except 2 times per month when you use the Reptivite multivitamin with D3.

Here's a couple food and gutload images - kale binds calcium so it's good to use occasionally but you want a staple leafy green like mustard or turnip greens. Crickets, dubias, and BSFL (aka calci or phoenix worms) are all good. You could try hornworms or super worms to build is trust or silkworms as another staple. If the crickets get out in the enclosure and she doesn't eat them leave some food on the bottom of the cage for them. They will bite chameleons when they get hungry.


View attachment 313123
View attachment 313125
Omg they will bite the chameleon 😬
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - panther chameleon , Female, 3 months old. she has been in my care for 3 days.
  • Handling - I never have even touched her. When I rec her I looked at her real quick through the container and I opened it and let her walk out on a branch.
  • Feeding - i am feeding her crickets, Dubai’s, and phoenix worms? i put in about 7 crickets, 2 Dubai’s, and one phoenix worm ? i feed her about 8:30am every day. I gutloaded my bugs with kale, sweet potatoe, and carrots.
  • Supplements - I use Pangea Cal without D3 and I use zoo med repitative multivitamin with D3. I used without D3 every single feed and I planned on using the multivitamin with D3 15 days after I got her. I got her 3 days ago so I haven’t made it far yet.
  • Watering - I used a hand pump mister for watering. I mist twice daily before turning on the lights and after I turn the lights off. I have not seen the chameleon drinking.
  • Fecal Description - she has used the bathroom twice and they were brown hard but not too hard and the tip was white. she has never been tested for parasites from me yet.
  • History - she seems pretty Skittish and seems to hide and sleep a lot.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - I have a reptibreeze XL screened that is 24x24x48. I also wrapped it on 3 sides with a shower curtain to retain temp and humidit.
  • Lighting - see pictures i included. I turn the lights on at 7:30am
  • Temperature - basking spot is 79 F, middle is about 70 F, and the bottom is 68 F.Lowest overnight temp Is 67 F. i measure with an sculpted weather system that has a thermometer and hygrometer With a sensor to that is weather proof. I also have a zoo med probe sensor as well as a thrive digital hygrometer and a combo temp\ hygrometer from thrive as well.
  • Humidity - During the day it about. I maintain these levels by using a shower and it’s on all 3 sides. Also if the humidity isn’t high enough during the day I mist.
  • Plants - i use live plants and fake vines. I also use real branches and wooden dowlels. I have a spider plant, pothos, and a china doll.
  • Placement - my cage is located in my den and it isn’t that close to a vent. there are no fans around and I don’t think it’s in a high traffic area.At the bottom of the floor to the top of the cage heightmis about 7~ to maybe 7.5 feet.
  • Location - im located in Virginia Beach, Va

Current Problem - The current problem I’m concerned about is she keeps falling from the screen from freaking out from me putting her food bowl in her cage. I’m scared she is going to hurt herself. Also she sleeps during the day off and on.
Thanks for going through the form. I think we managed to cover everything with our back and forth organically. However I do think that she should be eating more as a juvenile. As much as she wants...usually they can eat like 10 feeders in the morning and 10 again in the afternoon. This age is crucial for getting lots of food and nutrition for their bodies to develop properly. Then you cut back as she reaches sexual maturity to keep clutches in check.

You read correctly that tong feeding is dangerous. One bad scenario and boom you need to amputate their tongue. So getting a shooting gallery or free range or cup feeding is fine. Usually having the feeding gallery or cup where they can see it clearly from the basking area helps them find and get the food.
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Omg they will bite the chameleon 😬
Yes. Crickets are nasty buggers. I also think it'd help to get crickets a bigger bucket or tub. It has to have lots of space and ventilation because as they poop and die off the fumes kill the live crickets. Where do you get your crickets? Pet shops have high rates of cross contamination and parasites. It's safer to order banded crickets online from a place like Josh's Frogs.
 
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