Eyes problem

[ivan0206]

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - about 4-6 months old male Panther which has been in my cage for 15 days

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Seldom

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Mostly crickets and dobia, about 8-10 in total per day, once in the morning and once at around 7pm. Gut-loading by feeding crickets with oatmeal

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? shake with ZOOMED Repti Calcium(with D3) once every 1-2 week

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Use a big container with small hole to drip water from the above everyday, with a bumping machine on the around keep making water moving in a container. Mist every morning and 7pm for about 5 minutes, not very often see my chameleon drinking which worries me, yet I try to make the crickets wet before feeding him

Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Nope.
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? ZOOMED Screen cage (16x16x20)

Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? Repti glo 10.0 light bulb, lights on from 7:30am to around 9:30pm every day, with limited natural sunlight too as I put the cage in balcony

Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot: Max-35.5C Min-23.1C Cage floor: Max-29.4C Min-20.0C
Measure using digital machine


Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Average 75%, minimum 40% and maximum 99%
Measure using digital machine

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? No

Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Balcony with windows open, no fans or traffic as I live on 20/F floor, just put the cage on the floor.

Location - Where are you geographically located? Hong Kong

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
I don't know whether the eyes of my chameleon are little bit sunken or not....please take a look, thanks

 

[ferretinmyshoes]

Welcome to the forums! Good looking cham you have! There are some key parts of your husbandry that need improving.

Gutloading - oatmeal is high in phosphorus and low in calcium, which is bad. Not having enough calcium

Gutloading is the process of working through the food chain to feed the prey animals the nutrition that your insectivore pet needs to replicate what they would eat in nature. Crickets are basically just water and chitin (not very nutritious or digestible) and the pet stores only feed them cardboard, or potato at most, so feeding crickets directly after you get them from the pet store or vendor is not providing much in the way of nutrition to your pet. Supplementing with a calcium and/or multivitamin powder is important, but not sufficient alone for proper nutrition in any species. Gut loading can't be done in all feeders but is very easy in crickets and super worms - two common feeder bugs.

How do you chose what to use? Gutloading ingredients should be chosen that are higher in calcium than phosphorus. High phosphorus levels in the food impedes calcium absorption. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease. Commercially available gutloads (such as Fluker Farms Cricket Food) are not balanced or sufficient for good nutrition in any species. Ideally there should be a wet and dry component to your gut load:

Good Wet Gutloading Ingredients: dandelion leaves, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, escarole lettuce, butternut squash, carrots, mango, alfalfa sprouts, oranges, blueberries, raspberries, sweet potato, strawberries, hibiscus leaves and flowers, papaya

Good Dry Gutload Ingredients: bee pollen, alfalfa powder, kelp powder, brewer’s yeast, wheat germ, raw uncooked sunflower seeds, raw uncooked pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, small amounts of whole grain cereals, spirulina algae, tortoise pellets

Foods to AVOID: Broccoli, spinach, beets, and parsley, have large amounts of oxalic acids which bind calcium absorption. Lettuces and cabbage do not have any significant nutritional value. Also, avoid things like dog food, cat food, and fish flakes which are high in animal proteins which can cause kidney damage. Feeding such things like pinky-mice, fuzzies, and feeder anoles that are extremely high in fat and protein content is harmful to your chameleon's health, bones and organs that can lead to serious illnesses like gout, edema, organ failure and fatality.

This site has nutritional info on many commonly available fruits and veggies to help guide you in choosing good gut loading ingredients: http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm
Sandrachameleon has many fabulous blog entries on gut loading and nutrition.

You need to be giving calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) at nearly every feeding. Once every 1-2 weeks is not enough. Giving the powder with D3 too often can cause toxicity issues with the D3 so you'll need another calcium powder without it.

Chams don't drink from standing water, even when the water is moving around in the bowel. They drink from water that drips onto leaves so you need to have your dripper dripping onto the leaves in his cage. Misting his cage with a squirt bottle will help stimulate him to drink. A lot of times they don't like to drink in front of people so try to hide or leave the room when you give him water.

His eyes don't look sunken to me. Another way to check if he's dehydrated is by looking at his poop. There will be a brown part and a white part. If the white part is yellow or orange it means he's not getting enough water.

 

[ivan0206]

Welcome to the forums! Good looking cham you have! There are some key parts of your husbandry that need improving.

Gutloading - oatmeal is high in phosphorus and low in calcium, which is bad. Not having enough calcium


You need to be giving calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) at nearly every feeding. Once every 1-2 weeks is not enough. Giving the powder with D3 too often can cause toxicity issues with the D3 so you'll need another calcium powder without it.

Chams don't drink from standing water, even when the water is moving around in the bowel. They drink from water that drips onto leaves so you need to have your dripper dripping onto the leaves in his cage. Misting his cage with a squirt bottle will help stimulate him to drink. A lot of times they don't like to drink in front of people so try to hide or leave the room when you give him water.

His eyes don't look sunken to me. Another way to check if he's dehydrated is by looking at his poop. There will be a brown part and a white part. If the white part is yellow or orange it means he's not getting enough water.

thanks a lot buddy I will buy a bottle of Calcium without D3 asap and pay more attention concerning the drinking problem, hope my love can grow healthily!