eyes looking bad
- Thread starter iceman214
- Start date
John33871
New Member
try putting some neosporn on it and see what that does and hopefully it will help and i would schedule a trip to the vet if anything gets worse or if there is no change. chameleons rely on their eyes to catch their pray and with one eye not working their ability to catch their pray goes down. so i hope your little guy gets better, and good luck to you
Cherron
New Member
I dunno if I would put neosporin IN his eyes or even around them. it isn't recommended for use in human eyes and probably shouldn't be used in chameleon's eyes either.
http://www.pfizerch.com/product.aspx?id=364
I would try a few long showering sessions to see if it will help clear his eyes out and maybe up your misting schedule some to help with the irritation. You can also buy a plain saline solution that can be used to flush the eyes if you suspect something is in it.
Other than that.. I would make a vet appointment. It really could be a number of things going wrong and something like this isn't easily fixed and will probably require antibiotics. Good luck!
http://www.pfizerch.com/product.aspx?id=364
I would try a few long showering sessions to see if it will help clear his eyes out and maybe up your misting schedule some to help with the irritation. You can also buy a plain saline solution that can be used to flush the eyes if you suspect something is in it.
Other than that.. I would make a vet appointment. It really could be a number of things going wrong and something like this isn't easily fixed and will probably require antibiotics. Good luck!
Last edited:
MWheelock
Veterinarian
Hey,
Just noticed that you are having humidity problem on another thread.
My guess is that you are trying to compensate for it being too humid by misting less. (I'm sure it is not too humid unless the animal lives in an aquarium, or it is so humid that the water on the leaves do not evaporate for a couple hours after you mist).
It is true that humidity needs to be in a certain range, but this does not take the place of misting and rain. 1) It allows them to drink and stay hydrated, but 2) it is important for them to flush their eyes out.
If you are not misting 4-5 times a day at minimum, there is a good chance your cham has a mild eye infection (DO NOT USE NEOSPORIN ON THE EYE!). I agree with Cherron about showering and if the signs persist, go to a vet.
Good luck,
Matthew
Just noticed that you are having humidity problem on another thread.
My guess is that you are trying to compensate for it being too humid by misting less. (I'm sure it is not too humid unless the animal lives in an aquarium, or it is so humid that the water on the leaves do not evaporate for a couple hours after you mist).
It is true that humidity needs to be in a certain range, but this does not take the place of misting and rain. 1) It allows them to drink and stay hydrated, but 2) it is important for them to flush their eyes out.
If you are not misting 4-5 times a day at minimum, there is a good chance your cham has a mild eye infection (DO NOT USE NEOSPORIN ON THE EYE!). I agree with Cherron about showering and if the signs persist, go to a vet.
Good luck,
Matthew
lele
Avid Member
Ditto on above. Are they bulging all the time or does he just bulge them out from time to time (it can be pretty darn weird when you first experience it!). Chams clean their eyes by bulging, but it can also mean there is something in there they can't get out and or dry eyes. Matthew said you are having humidity problems so it may just be his eyes are dry. Cyrus had minor eye surgery a few months ago and he bulges that eye more and "demands" more spritzing and moisture for that eye. So yes, go with upping the humidity, misting, showers, etc. and as Cherron and K said, putting neosporin or any other ointment in/on is NOT a good idea - especially since you do not know what is wrong. If it is simply a matter of moisture then you could create a problem that wasn't there...
keep us posted
keep us posted
TreelionsUK
New Member
This aways gets left out!!
check the condition of your water also!!
check the condition of your water also!!
Swaytheveiled
New Member
Eye problems.
I have a 3 month old veiled chameleon. She started keeping er eyes closed and rubbing them on her vines. She stopped eating all together. I took her to the vet and the said she had an eye infection. They gave me triple aintibiotic ointment. Her eyes are a little better but she is still not eating. i offer her crickets which are fed with flukers orange cube and i offer herr waxworms. She has a bubble stone in her big bowl of water and she gets misted twice a day. She is in a ten gal. aquarium. I am buying a screened cage tomorrow. If anyone has any suggestions let me know! I need HELP!!
I have a 3 month old veiled chameleon. She started keeping er eyes closed and rubbing them on her vines. She stopped eating all together. I took her to the vet and the said she had an eye infection. They gave me triple aintibiotic ointment. Her eyes are a little better but she is still not eating. i offer her crickets which are fed with flukers orange cube and i offer herr waxworms. She has a bubble stone in her big bowl of water and she gets misted twice a day. She is in a ten gal. aquarium. I am buying a screened cage tomorrow. If anyone has any suggestions let me know! I need HELP!!
Glad you took her to the vets and that her eyes are a little better!
You said..."she is still not eating"...have you tried handfeeding her? Her eyes may be bothering her enough that she isn't chasing the insects down.
You said..." She has a bubble stone in her big bowl of water and she gets misted twice a day"...I'm not a fan of bubble stones and bowls of water in chameleon cages...they need to be kept very clean. Hydration is important so in addition to a mister, you can use a dripper. It can be as simple as a container with a small hole in the bottom that allows it to drip at about the rate of 2 drips per second.
Is she pooping? Do you have a substrate?
What temperature is her basking area? Ambient temperature? Appropriate temperatures will allow her to digest the food properly.
You said..."i offer her crickets which are fed with flukers orange cube and i offer herr waxworms"...go easy on the waxworms...they are quite fatty. I would recommend that you gutload your insects better and feed them a nutritious diet. Here is one gutload that many people swear by....
http://adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html
Do you dust the insects with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at most feedings? Most insects used as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous...and this helps to make up for it.
Does your chameleon have a UVB tube light or get direct sunlight? (Neither should pass through glass or plastic.) Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce vitamin D3 which in turn allows it to use the calcium in its diet.
I dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon, twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system but preformed can. However, there is controversy as to whether chameleons can convert beta carotene so some people give their chameleons a little preformed once in a while. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.
Since my chameleons are rarely/never in the sun, I also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from SUPPLEMENTS can build up in the system...so don't overdo it.
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are all important in bone health, etc. and should be in balance.
Hope your chameleon will be okay!
You said..."she is still not eating"...have you tried handfeeding her? Her eyes may be bothering her enough that she isn't chasing the insects down.
You said..." She has a bubble stone in her big bowl of water and she gets misted twice a day"...I'm not a fan of bubble stones and bowls of water in chameleon cages...they need to be kept very clean. Hydration is important so in addition to a mister, you can use a dripper. It can be as simple as a container with a small hole in the bottom that allows it to drip at about the rate of 2 drips per second.
Is she pooping? Do you have a substrate?
What temperature is her basking area? Ambient temperature? Appropriate temperatures will allow her to digest the food properly.
You said..."i offer her crickets which are fed with flukers orange cube and i offer herr waxworms"...go easy on the waxworms...they are quite fatty. I would recommend that you gutload your insects better and feed them a nutritious diet. Here is one gutload that many people swear by....
http://adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html
Do you dust the insects with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at most feedings? Most insects used as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous...and this helps to make up for it.
Does your chameleon have a UVB tube light or get direct sunlight? (Neither should pass through glass or plastic.) Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce vitamin D3 which in turn allows it to use the calcium in its diet.
I dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon, twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system but preformed can. However, there is controversy as to whether chameleons can convert beta carotene so some people give their chameleons a little preformed once in a while. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.
Since my chameleons are rarely/never in the sun, I also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from SUPPLEMENTS can build up in the system...so don't overdo it.
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are all important in bone health, etc. and should be in balance.
Hope your chameleon will be okay!
