I have a veiled and she had clutch about 4 months ago. Over the last few days her behavior has changed and she's displaying a new color pattern and has started to refuse food. Could she be gravid this soon?
You are incorrect. The about of energy and nutrients the female exhausts is far less with an infertile clutch. Females should be one year old before breeding. No exceptions.I did not have intentions of breeding my female until she hit her one year mark as suggested by others on this forum. But once the female starts laying eggs, is there any benefit to keep waiting until she is one year old?
My female is only 6 months and she's already laid 31 (infertile) eggs and I suspect she will be laying more again in the near future. I assume the amount of energy being diverted from her growth is the same whether the eggs are fertilized or not. Am I correct to assume that waiting until she is one year old to breed with a male is pointless at this point?
Just like chicken eggs infertile eggs have yolks, however the still growing females need the calcium and nutrients for they're own health.OK good to know. Thanks. I had assumed the development of the calcium uptake to form the egg's shell is the primary depletion of energy and nutrient from the female.
May I ask how do we (you) know the energy and nutrients the female exhausts is far less with an infertile clutch? Does infertile eggs not have a yolk sac?
I also wanted to note that I didn't mention anything (nor do I have intentions) about line or inbreeding; not sure what prompted that piece of information.
Thank you Brodybreaux - this is the type of constructive discussion I was trying to elicit.I doubt there is much research out there on how taxing a single egg is to the female at different points in the developmental process, especially when comparing fertile vs infertile. I would think that the fertile do tax the female more but I don’t know why or how much. Is it a huge difference or a small one? I do not know. Since the eggs will be laid either way I can see your argument for it being the same but I just have to think that she has to do something extra to fertilized eggs to ensure they make it through the diapause and hatching.
I do not disagree with the preemptive response to discourage future issues. However we will not grow and develop if we choose to shut down any discussions that contradict opinions or what is commonly practiced as the "norm". How many present-day chameleon care sheet practices were ridiculed or previously discounted when it contradicted the "norm" in the past?I found Mike’s post to be only slightly negative, very slightly. You are correct in your assumption that his response was formulated due to the high volume of new/thick headed members we deal with on a daily basis. We see so much bad husbandry here we feel the need to try to get out ahead of the other issues that we know will enevatably be coming later on down the road in relation to whatever topic is being discussed at the time.
i can definitely take any heat in any kitchen but I just don't think the heat is necessary in a forum many people come to in search of information and help. In the spirit of open discussions and thinking outside the box to learn more about the animals we love to care for, new ideas will often evolve from open healthy discussions.Does that turn some members off? I’m sure it does but if your going to melt under such light heat you probably don’t belong in the kitchen anyway.
We’re talking about the nutritional requirements from the mother, not external factors.Id be interested to hear the science and nutrition behind the differences between fertile and infertile clutches as well. One reason i can tell you fertile is more taxing on the body is the breeding itself, it can be very rough on the female sometimes the male clamps on with his claws sometimes puncturing the females skin. they sometimes also fall to lower branches of the viv. Does not look like an enjoyable experience for the female.