DIY cage update..

Libren470

Libren470

New Member
So my 24x24x48 DIY aluminum cage came in yesterday morning which i was thrilled about after waiting over a week for it. I put a ficus, fern, and a pothos all in it. I will upload a picture of it by tonight. I am satisfied with the cage..of coarse it being aluminum..it is kind of flimzy and not 100% square.
The latches are kind of cheap..but otherwise it makes the perfect humid environment for my veiled chameleons. After i get my photo uploaded later...if anyone has any advise, it be great!!! tthankss :D
 
Tighten the screws? lol. That's the best advise I can give, I'm not very "building things savvy" :D

Figured I'd throw my 2 cents in because this post looked lonely and maybe a little bump would get it seen by someone more helpful:)
 
You said in the first post they are not housed together...but what is the purpose of the two of them in the same cage? I also would get that cage up off the floor and onto some kind of stand. And if you could answer the other members question about the lighting. It looks like you have 4 domes?.
 
Hey Libren you decited to go with the aluminum cage good choice,ya the DIY and LLL cages are just a little flimzy thats because they only have 1 reinforcement panel in the front compare to for exemple(FL CHAMS CAGE)they are more $$$ but comes with 2 reinforcement panels bottom and top sections,makes all the difference in strength.If you want to strenghten your cage,just use(L SHAPE CORNER BRACES)on the side and the back of your cage.Never put 2 males together specially(CHAMAELEO CALYPTRATUS)the males of this specie are extremely aggressive toward each other causing high stress levels.LIGHTING SYSTEMS-Chameleons have an organ on top of their head called the PARIETAL EYE some call it THE THIRD EYE it is hard to see and sometimes it is covered with scales,it is light-sensitive but reacts only to the most energetic light rays it is linked to the autonomic nervous system and plays a vital role in regulating chameleons circadian rhythm,chameleons need specific lighting systems and it is very important if you want we can help you with that.
 
DEVO said:
Hey Libren you decited to go with the aluminum cage good choice,ya the DIY and LLL cages are just a little flimzy thats because they only have 1 reinforcement panel in the front compare to for exemple(FL CHAMS CAGE)they are more $$$ but comes with 2 reinforcement panels bottom and top sections,makes all the difference in strength.If you want to strenghten your cage,just use(L SHAPE CORNER BRACES)on the side and the back of your cage.Never put 2 males together specially(CHAMAELEO CALYPTRATUS)the males of this specie are extremely aggressive toward each other causing high stress levels.LIGHTING SYSTEMS-Chameleons have an organ on top of their head called the PARIETAL EYE some call it THE THIRD EYE it is hard to see and sometimes it is covered with scales,it is light-sensitive but reacts only to the most energetic light rays it is linked to the autonomic nervous system and plays a vital role in regulating chameleons circadian rhythm,chameleons need specific lighting systems and it is very important if you want we can help you with that.
Click to expand...

LLL cages and FLCham cages are made by the same company here in the USA (in SoCal). The panel you speak of is only used on the 24"x24"x48" cages.

DIY cages are imported from China. As are the Zoo Med Reptibreeze cages.
 
like i said..

summoner12 said:
Time to buy another cage. You can't keep two males together.

While you are at it, we need to take a look at the lighting... can you tell us about the lamps in those light fixtures?
Click to expand...

vegas shooby said:
dude like the other person said time to get a new cage for one of them...asap:D...not trying to sound like a di**
Click to expand...

there not housed together, yall two need to learn how to read. i took that pic so i could just show both of them in one picture..to be able to compare them.

this is my other cage

cgg.jpg


cham.jpg


btw...lighting fixture is two 100w infrared, one 100w basking, & one 100w 5.0 uvb.
 
Libren470 said:
there not housed together, yall two need to learn how to read. i took that pic so i could just show both of them in one picture..to be able to compare them.

this is my other cage

cgg.jpg


cham.jpg


btw...lighting fixture is two 100w infrared, one 100w basking, & one 100w 5.0 uvb.
Click to expand...

holy cow, what is your ambient temp and basking temp?
 
Worried

Libren470 said:
there not housed together,

btw...lighting fixture is two 100w infrared, one 100w basking, & one 100w 5.0 uvb.
Click to expand...

Must have missed that first part.

There is no such thing as a '100w 5.0', maybe you are using a mercury vapor? Exo Terra or Zoo Med?

Is there a reason for all of those lights? Four 100w lamps on top of a cage is a bit much. :eek:
 
best enclosure size is 24X 24X 48 for adult veileds. 40-60 watt for basking. 5.0 Reptisun UVB TUBE light.
 
Hey Libren,we will help you step by step lighting systems for chameleons can be complicated to understand.First you only need 1 DAYLIGHT BASKING LAMP like for example EXO TERRA(SUN GLO DAYLIGHT SPOT)they are called incandescent bulbs they come in 50,75,100,150w.Basking daylight lamps are made to create a basking area for thermoregulation and increase ambient air temperature during the day,the size of the lamp will depend on where you live for example i live in Montreal so i need a larger lamp i use 100w,you will need a thermometer to know that and adjust the lamp with the basking area my guess you will need between 75-100w in buffalo hey libren ill be right back 30 min.
 
I am back ok so next you will need a uvb light to enable your chameleon to metabolize calcium and avoid irreversible effects of metabolic bone disease,dont use COMPACT FLUORESCENT BULBS(SPIRAL SHAPE BULBS)they are many reports of this bulbs causing blindness to chameleons,use a linear fluorescent tube for example EXO TERRA(24 INCH REPTI GLO 5.0 T8 20W)tubes or a ZOO MED(REPTISUN 5.0)tubes,this tubes will also stimulate appetite and activity through uva radiation,you only need one uvb light and remember they are effective up to 12 inch so you have to provide a branch,vines or plants so your chameleon can climb 12 inch max under the fluorescent tube.
 
Libren470 said:
what is best for that size exclosure then?
light wise and watt wise??

thanks
Click to expand...

A good choice is to use linear UVB lamps. They are shown to produce safer light than the CFL lamps. To help plants grow you should also install a linear 6500K lamp. This lamp will help plants grow because the light it produces is similar to sun light. Since you have all of those domes you could buy CFL (compact fluorescent) 6500K lamps and just use them in those hoods you have. Only issues I see is that sometimes the higher wattage CFLs get hot and can fail, nothing dramatic, they turn off. Anytime I've had a CFL break, the store I purchased it from took it back. :)

For heat use a PAR20 50w flood lamp. Do not use a spot lamp because they make a very hot spot of light and the chameleon can get burned. If you can't find PAR20 lamps you can also use normal household lamps.

If I were you, I would buy a linear Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 tube, say 18" or 24". Buy the fixture to go with it from lowe's or Home Depot or local hardware store. Then buy 6500K CFL lamps and install them into two of your light hoods. Next get the PAR20 50w Flood lamp and you should be good. Place the linear lamp diagonal from one corner to the other corner. Place the 6500K hoods on the sides of the linear fixture and then have the heat lamp angled like in the picture below.

If you use a dual linear fixture this is a good example:

lightexample.jpg


The reason you don't need the red heat lamps is because they are a gimmick. Yes they make heat and red light, but chameleons can still see them. The problem is that the light produced doesn't look natural and animals won't associate the light as daylight for heat. The companies want you to think that the animals can't see red light, which is part true. They don't see the light as red, they see it as maybe blue or green. Either way, they see light and they aren't good to use for anything except maybe night animals like geckos. I use a very dark red heat lamp for my leopard gecko. I find her 'basking' under it at night on top of her hide. I think she just lights the heat because it hardly makes any visible light (for my eyes).

And the reason you don't want to use the '100w 5.0' is because it is probebly a mercury vapor lamp that isn't good to use on chameleons. They produce too much UVB and heat. The only way to safely use a MV lamp is in a large enclosure and setting it up with a UVB meter and infrared heat gun to take temp readings.
 
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