dark cage

[niki]

My cage is to dark. I have bobbers in a exo terra screen enclosure. Can't remember size but it's big. the cage is in a corner that is pretty dark. Can't really move him cuz thats the only place with plug ins. i have a basking spot lamp (75 watt by exo terra) that is pretty much all he gets for light. I could put him in front of a window for light but i'm scared of drafts. I can't take him outside cuz it's winter. Any ideas?

 

[Brad Ramsey]

Do you have uva/uvb light?

 

[niki]

it says on the side that it stimulates natural behavior through uva rays, should i be using this?

 

[Brad Ramsey]

You need a flourescent uva/uvb light like the zoomed 5.0.
The hood and additional light should help make the cage brighter as well as providing these essential rays.

-Brad

 

[Jordan]

UVa has been proven in alot of reptiles to encourage eating habits, mating behaviors and physcologically is needed for chameleons.

UVb is important too. When the skin is exposed to UVb it produces a chemical 7-dehyrocholestrol. It then bound cholecaliferol to a serum protien and transports it to the liver. In the liver it is transformed into 25-hyroxycholecaliferol and then into 1,25-dihydroxycholecaliferol. 1,25-dihydroxycholecaliferol allows calcium to be absorb through the duodenum. Without this chemical it can still be absorbed through the small intestine but is almost never enough to meet the demands on the body.

The flourescent bulbs most of us use to produce UVb will never match the output of the sun. That is why a combination of exposure to UVb and supplementation is necessary. Cholecaliferol is an active form of Vitamin D3. Most chameleon owners would recommend using a calcium supplement with vitamin D3 that is phosphorus free. How much will depend on the species, age and gender. With age and full growth all chameleons will need less calcium then when they where growing. At this point you can become more dependant on the lighting and less on the supplements. Supplements are hard on the liver. You will still use it but very sparingly with an adult.

Now when shopping for lights you will see numbers like Brad mentioned, 5.0, 8.0, 10.0. These all stand for percentage of UVb that they can produce. 5%, 8%, 10%. For most owners and supplement schedules a 5.0 is adequate. If you do not see a rating like this on the box to do not buy it. Some lighting companies right some what misleading things on the box. I would say the most commonly used lights would be a "Repti-Sun 5.0, Repti-Sun 10.0" and "Repti-Glo 5.0, Repti-Glo 8.0, Repti-Glo 10.0". There are some other options you will see them when you get to that part of the pet store though.

For something to hold the light a trip to Wal Mart or Home Depot maybe in order. They sell some at the pet store but in some cases they maybe extremely over priced. In other stores you can find some under the counter lighting that will be cheap and compatable for your UVb bulb. I went with a ballist that held two lights, this was only $9 at Wal Mart. At the pet store it was around $40. The other light is a specailty bulb designed for plants. Not something you have to have but I like it.