Constantly Closing Eyes:

jheitz

Member
Hey everyone. After all the changes I made to benefit my little guy, I fear he is slipping and may very well be circling the drain. I've noticed he constantly has one if not both eyes closed, and has been rather lethargic in his behavior. In the past two days he has not eaten, nor have I seen him drink despite constant water supply via dripper and mister. He has not even eaten a waxworm, his favorites. Please, any and all advice is needed. If anyone knows of a good exotic vet in the whibey island or mount vernon area of washington state, please let me know. Thank you all.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type -: Reptibreeze all screen= 4X2X2
* Lighting -: Basking: Household 40 watt, Reptisun 5.0 and cool light flouresecent bulb for lighting. All on timer, on at 0530 off at 5:30 pm
* Temperature -: Basking temp 95, current, measured by zoomed thermo with probe. Ambient: 85-75 drop, temp in house averages 88 in early evening due to lack of AC. Ambient temp measured with fluckers thermo/hygro combo. Both devices are digital.
* Humidity -: Humidity between 30-50, increased to 80-90 with spraying 3X a day with hand held pressure mister.
* Plants -: 1 Hibiscus and 1 Scheflerra along with fake vines and plants.
* Placement -: Placement is in kitchen next to tortoise enclosure away from vents. Traffic is moderate. Cage is placed on 15 inch base, equals to 5 feet 3 inches from top to bottom.
* Location -: Located on Whidbey Island, Washington State. Moderate coastal climate. Currently in a heat wave with lid to late evening temps reaching mid 90's.


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon -: Male Veiled Chameleon, I want to put him at 4-6 months based on size. Pet store purchased from had him for 2 months in a glass enclosure with screen sides. I've had him for 2 months.
* Handling -: I don't. I have only handled him the last two days to examine his eyes and take him outside for sunlight and fresh air.
* Feeding -: I feed medium and large crickets gut loaded on potato and carrots with fluckers orange cube cricket food/water gut load. He also gets waxworms. He stopped eating mealworms and superworms and crickets, relying only on waxworms. Now he hasn't touched them either. He gets 4-5 crickets every other day, and has 4-6 waxworms in his daily. I pull the uneaten prey items from his cage on his off days.
* Supplements -: Rep Cal with D3 twice a month and Herptivite twice a week dusted on crickets and wxworms
* Watering -: He has constant access to water via a zoomed little dripper as well as a heavy misting with a hand held sprayer for 2-3 minutes in the morning and afternoon, then a lite mist for a minute an hour to an hour and a half before lights out. I saw him drink the first time I installed the dripper. Since then I have been trying to avoid messing with him or observing him due to the new location of his enclosure. I have not seen him drink in the last two days and he runs when I spray. I have a security camera on him and have yet to see any activity caught on motion sensors from him.
* Fecal Description -: Small, very small compared to how they use to be. I have not notice orange or yellow urates. He has not been tested for parasites due to lack or veterinarian care here.
* History -: I recently moved Optimus Prime from his smaller enclosure that was at the top of the stairs to a larger enclosure in the kitchen. At first, I chalked it up to a hunger strike due to adjustment. He is near my tortoise enclosure, witch is new for him as well. I also added an automatic mister ( currently not working due to lack of pressure from the hand held pressure sprayer used as a resevoir and pump), as well as new vines, plants and a dual bulb flouresecent light fixture. I just recently, two days ago, switched from a reptiglo 10.0 to reptisun 5.0. My tortoise had a compact flo bulb in a regular hood fixture, witch I removed yesterday. We have had to keep the back porch door open to allow air flow and to cool the house, otherwise his temps range from high 90's to the 100's. It's even hotter upstairs, with a constant temp in the high 80's to low 90's.
* Current Problem - The current problem that you are concerned about.: He is constantly keeping his eyes closed. He will occasionally open his left eye to navigate his enclosure, but the right eye stays closed. When he does open it, witch takes a lot of coaxing and handling, he will only open it 1/4 to 1/2 of the way. I have not seen any foreign bodies or external lacerations/abrasions, but I'am concerned if the new plants, two of witch are plastic, may have poked him, but the lack of interest in food/water, lack of activity, and overall appearance leads me to think it's more serious.

I will enclose a few photos to help. The first is his cage before the changes. The second is after the changes, and finally pictures of Optimus Prime.

Thank you all again for any and all help.

Before Cage Additions:

After Cage Additions: and

And Opti in his current condition:




Correction: Lights on at 5:30 am and off at 6:30 pm. He also gets Reptivite with calcium.
 
The additional flourescent lighting may be too bright? is that a tube or coil? coild are a little intense when close. Just a possibility.

try here

http://www.heidihoefer.com/

or

Paul Raiti, DVM
Beverlie Animal Hospital
17 West Grand Street
Mount Vernon, NY 10552
Tel: (914) 664-2784
 
Last edited:
No, it's linear as well. It's positioned in the front slot, the uvb in the rear slot. The lamp is literally on the edge of the cage. I was thinking this too, but I can't figure out how the light would be reaching that far back, especially since it's a cool light. Bit I'am on track with your line of thought. Thanks brother.
 
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