chameleon

[montysmommy]

Hello everyone!!! Im Eva and I have recently got a 6 month old yemen chameleon! I just have some questions since this is my first ever reptile. I will pin some pictures and please tell me if she looks okay and healthy. I feed her 7 times a day, crickets and worms dusted in multivitamin. I give her water myself by giving it close to her mouth and when she notices it she drinks. I have 2 lights, one for daytime (60w) and one for night (on the picture). My questions are: She gapes alot and I mean alot. Why?, she also makes a sneezing like noise even during sleeping. She also likes to sleep on my hand and head. Thanks!

 

[CalamityCrow]

Hello and welcome!

You're going to get some excellent guidance here. Please note that MANY people have bad information when it comes to chameleons, and what we suggest here is to help you, not point fingers or just to tell you "you're wrong." The intent is for our lovely little tree dragons to be the healthiest they can be.

That being said, based on what you described here, there are a lot of concerns I have.

The most pressing: If your chameleon is sleeping during the day, that's bad. There can be a lot of reasons for it, but chams are up when the sun is up, and asleep when the sun is down, generally without exception. Usually sleeping during the day can be caused by three things: Illness, poor husbandry, or extreme and total fear. That you've described a sneezing noise and constant gaping is the most imminent concern to me. It's possible your cham has a respiratory infection and those can be deadly. I would HIGHLY suggest finding a vet in your area ASAP and getting your lovely little one checked out. Gaping can be because they're too hot but also because they can't breathe well. Also bring a recent fecal so they can test for parasites. That can also cause a lot of issues, including "sleeping" during the day.

Lights on at night are also a no-go. CHameleons need total darkness when they're sleeping, so I'd immediately turn that light off at night. My cham is on a 12/12 hour schedule. His lights go on around 7am and off at 7pm.

Next, fill out the form at the end of this post with as much detail as you can. Also post images of your cham's enclosure, including the light system, the supplements you're using, what you're feeding your feeders, and anything else you might be using. Tell us EVERYTHING.

This is for later, but if you have a female (can you post pictures of the back of her feet please?) then you'll want to set up a lay bin soon since veiled chameleons are like chickens - they're going to lay eggs whether or not they've been mated to a boy. But your first objective is making sure she's healthy right now.

Read through this and absorb EVERYTHING. Explore the site. Listen to the podcasts. Chameleon Academy is the most up to date knowledge on cham husbandry and if you follow that, you'll be well on your way to a healthy chameleon. https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

And finally... Fill this out and post back so we can go over your husbandry. This is really helpful to make sure you've got the best shot at a healthy chameleon :
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[montysmommy]

Hello and thank you for answering! the pictures where shes sleeping were taken during the night I just turned the light on to take the picture! she sleeps normally and everything else is normal just the gaping and a "sneezing" like sound that worries me. Her terrarium and vitamins she takes are on the pictures below. I usually feed her crickets and worms bananas or any type of fruit. Im located in Slovenia, Europe and her terrarium is in my room and not near any vents. I spray her plants and terrarium with water 8 times a day, and the temperature is 24 degrees celcius during the day, 28 on the basking spot and during the night 22. I keep the lights on from 9 am till 7pm. She eats 3 times a day, so I give her 3 little worms and 2 crickets in the morning, during the day 3 crickets dusted in multivitamin and then before sleep I give her 2 crickets and 2 worms. My terrarium is made from glass and at the top it has a wire like (idk how its called) space for the lights and misting. I also made a dripper from a water bottle. The terrarium messaurements are 75x75x100. She likes to be on my hands or the plants that we have for her playtime and she also has picked her favorite sleeping spot which is on the plant. Thank you for your answers!!!

 

[Flick boy]

@montysmommy Hi Eva and welcome to the forum. Looking at your post and pictures there are a couple of changes needed, firstly do you have a uv light ( I will include a picture) of what is required to insure you have a healthy cham , no light at night ( this will disturb your chams sleep and is not needed) your uv should be on 12 off 12 put on a timer. Ok next mealworms are not really reccomended better feeders include locusts, black soldier fly larve, dubia roaches or other roaches, also silkworms. ( how are you feeding/ gut-loading your insects? OK I'm not familiar with your repti planet multivitamin, but this should only be given twice a month ( say the 15th then the 30th so every 2 weeks )you need to get a calcium supplement phosphorus free no d3 this should be given every feed( lightly dusting your insects) so they don't look like snow men . So now more important what is your daily humidity? For a yeman it should be 30 % 50 : max how are you measuring this ? Misting 8 times a day is to much in my opinion, your chameleon may have respiratory infection ( I say may )
Getting a vet check would be a good idea, preferably with an experienced reptile vet . Sorry for the long post , if you have any questions just shout, as we are all here to help

 

[CalamityCrow]

Flick Boy has said a lot of good stuff. I'd change up your feeders and get your lighting situation updated ASAP. No lights at all at night, and the Arcadia 6% T5 bulbs are ideal. You don't have to change them more than once a year, and it'll give your cham the proper amount of UVB - chameleons are VERY sensitive creatures and we want to do right by them. I'd add that for the feeders, for a baby of a few months, you can feed her as much as she'll eat. 20+ feeders in a day isn't uncommon. Additionally, try feeding her mostly in the morning. Chams need that basking temperature to digest food and if you're feeding her late at night, that'll cause issues with digestion. I usually feed my cham all his food in the morning and let him graze if he doesn't eat it all straight away (he usually eats it all straight away). If you aren't yet, I'd suggest cup-feeding your cham. That way you'll know exactly how much she's taking in.

Flick Boy mentioned some good stuff about your supplements as well. You definitely want a phosphorus-free calcium supplement that does NOT have D3 in it. Too much D3 can cause issues with your cham, including eye issues. Right now you're overdosing her. I'd hold off on any more of that for a couple months for her body to process it, then go down to 2x/month with the D3 multivitamin and with all other feedings, just use the plain calcium.

As for feeding when your cham gets a bit older, I'll default to @MissSkittles or @kinyonga because I *believe* they've both raised females and can explain both lay bins and the "lady diet" to keep your cham from producing too many eggs.

Definitely get some digital thermometers for reading your humidity and basking and ambient temperatures. I have a probe thermometer that I have right under Little Guy (my cham's) basking area so I know how hot that area is. I have a humidity/temperature monitor in the cage as well for the other ambient readings. It sounds like your temperatures are pretty good, but don't go higher than that 27-28 for basking. We don't want to cook our little ones! If possible, a bigger temp drop at night would be beneficial. But I think if you have better airflow (see below on that), you can achieve that.

For humidity, it's really not a bad idea to invest in an automated mister like a Mistking. I have that on a timer, along with my lights, and a fan on the cage to regulate airflow. That fan is actually something I'd suggest for you - if your humidity levels are too high, that could be the cause of your cham's potential respiratory infection (RI). Misting THAT often doesn't allow the cage to dry out, and without much airflow like it looks like your enclosure has, you may be keeping things too wet. Too wet means a breeding ground for bacteria, and that can settle in the lungs. The Chameleon Academy link I posted in my original response will help you know when is best for misting sessions for your cham. You're currently misting way too much.

For the enclosure: You have what appears to be adequate space, but with it being glass, you DEFINITELY need airflow. Is there a screen on the bottom of the cage as well? In that little door area? For cages that aren't screens you want to make sure you have what we call the "chimney" effect. That's where air can circulate through the cage and keep from being too still and stagnant. On top of my cage, I have a computer fan that helps pull the air through. I have a small screen area at the bottom of the cage, and a screen on the top. By putting a fan that has the air being pushed upwards, it sucks air from the bottom to the top and allows good airflow, the cage to dry out between mistings, and my cham's lungs to remain healthy.

Here's the fan I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWVUJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You also want to make sure there's a drain under the cage so extra water can leak out and not sit and make things too humid. I literally just drilled holes in the bottom section of my cage, raised on some pieces of wood, and have a catch-container beneath it for the water to drain out.

Do you have all live plants in the cage?

And I'll iterate again - find a reptile vet ASAP if you're hearing clicking/wheezing/popping sounds from her, and if she's gaping a lot. Chams generally won't recover from RIs on their own.

Sorry for the book of a reply. I assure you, it's all there to help you out, not accuse.

 

[montysmommy]

Flick Boy has said a lot of good stuff. I'd change up your feeders and get your lighting situation updated ASAP. No lights at all at night, and the Arcadia 6% T5 bulbs are ideal. You don't have to change them more than once a year, and it'll give your cham the proper amount of UVB - chameleons are VERY sensitive creatures and we want to do right by them. I'd add that for the feeders, for a baby of a few months, you can feed her as much as she'll eat. 20+ feeders in a day isn't uncommon. Additionally, try feeding her mostly in the morning. Chams need that basking temperature to digest food and if you're feeding her late at night, that'll cause issues with digestion. I usually feed my cham all his food in the morning and let him graze if he doesn't eat it all straight away (he usually eats it all straight away). If you aren't yet, I'd suggest cup-feeding your cham. That way you'll know exactly how much she's taking in.

Flick Boy mentioned some good stuff about your supplements as well. You definitely want a phosphorus-free calcium supplement that does NOT have D3 in it. Too much D3 can cause issues with your cham, including eye issues. Right now you're overdosing her. I'd hold off on any more of that for a couple months for her body to process it, then go down to 2x/month with the D3 multivitamin and with all other feedings, just use the plain calcium.

As for feeding when your cham gets a bit older, I'll default to @MissSkittles or @kinyonga because I *believe* they've both raised females and can explain both lay bins and the "lady diet" to keep your cham from producing too many eggs.

Definitely get some digital thermometers for reading your humidity and basking and ambient temperatures. I have a probe thermometer that I have right under Little Guy (my cham's) basking area so I know how hot that area is. I have a humidity/temperature monitor in the cage as well for the other ambient readings. It sounds like your temperatures are pretty good, but don't go higher than that 27-28 for basking. We don't want to cook our little ones! If possible, a bigger temp drop at night would be beneficial. But I think if you have better airflow (see below on that), you can achieve that.

For humidity, it's really not a bad idea to invest in an automated mister like a Mistking. I have that on a timer, along with my lights, and a fan on the cage to regulate airflow. That fan is actually something I'd suggest for you - if your humidity levels are too high, that could be the cause of your cham's potential respiratory infection (RI). Misting THAT often doesn't allow the cage to dry out, and without much airflow like it looks like your enclosure has, you may be keeping things too wet. Too wet means a breeding ground for bacteria, and that can settle in the lungs. The Chameleon Academy link I posted in my original response will help you know when is best for misting sessions for your cham. You're currently misting way too much.

For the enclosure: You have what appears to be adequate space, but with it being glass, you DEFINITELY need airflow. Is there a screen on the bottom of the cage as well? In that little door area? For cages that aren't screens you want to make sure you have what we call the "chimney" effect. That's where air can circulate through the cage and keep from being too still and stagnant. On top of my cage, I have a computer fan that helps pull the air through. I have a small screen area at the bottom of the cage, and a screen on the top. By putting a fan that has the air being pushed upwards, it sucks air from the bottom to the top and allows good airflow, the cage to dry out between mistings, and my cham's lungs to remain healthy.

Here's the fan I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWVUJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You also want to make sure there's a drain under the cage so extra water can leak out and not sit and make things too humid. I literally just drilled holes in the bottom section of my cage, raised on some pieces of wood, and have a catch-container beneath it for the water to drain out.

Do you have all live plants in the cage?

And I'll iterate again - find a reptile vet ASAP if you're hearing clicking/wheezing/popping sounds from her, and if she's gaping a lot. Chams generally won't recover from RIs on their own.

Sorry for the book of a reply. I assure you, it's all there to help you out, not accuse.

oh my lord thank you so much for taking your time and answering this is all great information and I noted it all. Also I have been planning to make my cham some kind of a playground where she can go from her plant to another place for example reptile relaxer or another tree branch, she would have alot of space to roam free and it would be safe. I will pin a picture below it is not finished yet until then she will stay in the terrarium. I need an opinion on this. So sorry to bother! very new to this and just want my sweet girl to have alot of space. thank you so much again!! I will upgrade it and add a bunch of new stuff but opinion on the idea?

 

[MissSkittles]

The free range area is an excellent idea! Some keep their chameleons on a free range permanently. It just needs to be done correctly to still provide for all needs. If you have other pets, especially cats, dogs and such you need to make sure they are not around at all when your girl is not safe inside of an enclosure. Even the sweetest cat will attack a chameleon and one little bite can do so very much damage.
Having a little girl, it’s more important than ever to make sure that all of your care is as perfect as possible. Even if she never even sees a boy, she will lay eggs and it’s the only way to help prevent problems laying. As young as 5 - 6 months old, she may be mature enough to start producing eggs. You’ll know she’s reached maturity when her beautiful teal and orange or yellow colors start showing and she will become very restless and active in her search for a mate. This is the time you need to have your lay bin prepared and place it in her enclosure. This is also the time that you want to start reducing how much you feed her...start off feeding her every other day and then slowly start reducing the amount. I don’t want to overwhelm you right now. Concentrate on making sure that you have all of her care as perfect as possible right now.

 

[CalamityCrow]

oh my lord thank you so much for taking your time and answering this is all great information and I noted it all. Also I have been planning to make my cham some kind of a playground where she can go from her plant to another place for example reptile relaxer or another tree branch, she would have alot of space to roam free and it would be safe. I will pin a picture below it is not finished yet until then she will stay in the terrarium. I need an opinion on this. So sorry to bother! very new to this and just want my sweet girl to have alot of space. thank you so much again!! I will upgrade it and add a bunch of new stuff but opinion on the idea?

A place to wander that's safe and monitored (DO NOT let her out of your sight, even inside!) is a lovely idea! I definitely think that's a great thing to offer her. Just make sure that she's got enough time with her basking and UVB light (PLEASE replace that ASAP) for her needs.

But seriously - get a vet. An RI will kill a cham. and not only that but they REALLY hide their illnesses well. If she's already showing signs of it, you're in a short window to intervene effectively.

 

[montysmommy]

The free range area is an excellent idea! Some keep their chameleons on a free range permanently. It just needs to be done correctly to still provide for all needs. If you have other pets, especially cats, dogs and such you need to make sure they are not around at all when your girl is not safe inside of an enclosure. Even the sweetest cat will attack a chameleon and one little bite can do so very much damage.
Having a little girl, it’s more important than ever to make sure that all of your care is as perfect as possible. Even if she never even sees a boy, she will lay eggs and it’s the only way to help prevent problems laying. As young as 5 - 6 months old, she may be mature enough to start producing eggs. You’ll know she’s reached maturity when her beautiful teal and orange or yellow colors start showing and she will become very restless and active in her search for a mate. This is the time you need to have your lay bin prepared and place it in her enclosure. This is also the time that you want to start reducing how much you feed her...start off feeding her every other day and then slowly start reducing the amount. I don’t want to overwhelm you right now. Concentrate on making sure that you have all of her care as perfect as possible right now.

thank you so much again! the free range for me seems like a better idea because for the better air I open the windows to let all the air in and out. The basking spot is also at the top and she usually chills there. I will take your advice and look into the Lady diet. Have a great day/night! sending hugs.

 

[Flick boy]

thank you so much again! the free range for me seems like a better idea because for the better air I open the windows to let all the air in and out. The basking spot is also at the top and she usually chills there. I will take your advice and look into the Lady diet. Have a great day/night! sending hugs.

Hi just something I Wanted to check as you said in your first post you where feeding 7 times a day where you dusting Al l the feeders all those times ?

 

[montysmommy]

Hi just something I Wanted to check as you said in your first post you where feeding 7 times a day where you dusting Al l the feeders all those times ?

not always, they did tell me to dust twice a week with multivitamin and I only have that I havent found the plain calcium yet, they dont have it in mr pet.

 

[Sonny13]

thank you so much again! the free range for me seems like a better idea because for the better air I open the windows to let all the air in and out. The basking spot is also at the top and she usually chills there. I will take your advice and look into the Lady diet. Have a great day/night! sending hugs.

If, like @MissSkittles mentioned, your room is cham safe! And you’re seriously favoring free range, then go 100% for free range and spend your money one time only and correctly. Because they’re good but they’re at the same price as an enclosure build. Since you’re in Europe, you can build the same free range as I did and this is fully proofed and even successful for the egg laying part. Here’s the exact way to do it, but as said your room needs to be cham proof, meaning no other pets or things that could harm her when she leaves her free range, like things that can drop on her she climbs it. Because in the beginning 1 till 6 weeks, they do everything to escape it and this will settle down once she knows the free range her best and safest place.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/free-range-inspiration.2464/

 

[Flick boy]

not always, they did tell me to dust twice a week with multivitamin and I only have that I havent found the plain calcium yet, they dont have it in mr pet.

You should be able to get calcium on line

 

[montysmommy]

You should be able to get calcium on line

does it have to be special calcium for reptiles only or the normal basic one?

 

[Flick boy]

does it have to be special calcium for reptiles only or the normal basic one?

Would have to be a reptile brand as the amounts would not be the same presume @Sonny13 @MadDogMurphy where do yous get your supplements

 

[CalamityCrow]

@montysmommy have you made a vet appointment with a chameleon-experienced yet? Is your cham still making those noises?

 

[kinyonga]

You said…”She gapes alot and I mean alot.”…when you are near her?

You said…”I usually feed her crickets and worms bananas or any type of fruit.”…I would recommend that you feed the insects batter diet…greens such as collards, dandelions, kale, mustard greens and veggies such as sweet potato, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, carrots and a very small bit of fruit such as apples, pears, berries.

You said…”the free range for me seems like a better idea because for the better air I open the windows to let all the air in and out”…how do you provide UVB when she’s in the free range? How can she bask there?

Regarding producing eggs….as the female approaches sexual maturity it thought that she will already be starting to develop the follicles that will become the eggs and she will begin to get her receptive colours. However, we want to try to keep the number of follicles fairly low so the egg number will be low and she hopefully won’t develop follicular stasis or egg binding. It’s very important that her husbandry is bang on and that we don’t overfeed her and keep her basking temperature at 80F because the overfeeding along with high temperatures seems to increase the number of follicles and thus eggs that she will produce….and increases the risk dramatically that she will develop folicular stasis and/or egg binding. It also increases the chances of her developing MBD, prolapsing, becoming obese, etc. and shortens her life. I would cut her pack as @MissSkittles suggested until you get to 3 to 5 insects 2 or 3 times a week.

 

[Sonny13]

Would have to be a reptile brand as the amounts would not be the same presume @Sonny13 @MadDogMurphy where do yous get your supplements

I order mine through internet and where they have them stock. I’m using Arcadia Earth Pro-A

 

[montysmommy]

@montysmommy have you made a vet appointment with a chameleon-experienced yet? Is your cham still making those noises?

I have recently put the light I have for her closer and I hear the noises less and less. I think that was the problem? her not getting enough temperature. The bulb I have is round and 60W. In the space I have for her it gets around 28° degrees celcious.

 

[CalamityCrow]

I have recently put the light I have for her closer and I hear the noises less and less. I think that was the problem? her not getting enough temperature. The bulb I have is round and 60W. In the space I have for her it gets around 28° degrees celcious.

They don't really recover on their own from an RI. Gaping by being too cold is also not something that happens. I'm very concerned for her. If you've not taken her to the vet for a baseline checkup and fecal testing for parasites, that's VERY highly recommended.