chameleon

They don't really recover on their own from an RI. Gaping by being too cold is also not something that happens. I'm very concerned for her. If you've not taken her to the vet for a baseline checkup and fecal testing for parasites, that's VERY highly recommended.
100% agree with this! A chameleon that is too hot will gape, but without any noise. Chameleons make no noise when healthy. They are also masters at hiding when they are sick and we usually don’t see anything wrong until it’s often too late or very close to it.
 
They don't really recover on their own from an RI. Gaping by being too cold is also not something that happens. I'm very concerned for her. If you've not taken her to the vet for a baseline checkup and fecal testing for parasites, that's VERY highly recommended.
I booked a vet and now Im waiting for tuesday to arrive, very nervous :( shes recently also started "wiggling" like moving after she eats and opening her mouth. Its very concerning
 
You said…”She gapes alot and I mean alot.”…when you are near her?

You said…”I usually feed her crickets and worms bananas or any type of fruit.”…I would recommend that you feed the insects batter diet…greens such as collards, dandelions, kale, mustard greens and veggies such as sweet potato, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, carrots and a very small bit of fruit such as apples, pears, berries.

You said…”the free range for me seems like a better idea because for the better air I open the windows to let all the air in and out”…how do you provide UVB when she’s in the free range? How can she bask there?

Regarding producing eggs….as the female approaches sexual maturity it thought that she will already be starting to develop the follicles that will become the eggs and she will begin to get her receptive colours. However, we want to try to keep the number of follicles fairly low so the egg number will be low and she hopefully won’t develop follicular stasis or egg binding. It’s very important that her husbandry is bang on and that we don’t overfeed her and keep her basking temperature at 80F because the overfeeding along with high temperatures seems to increase the number of follicles and thus eggs that she will produce….and increases the risk dramatically that she will develop folicular stasis and/or egg binding. It also increases the chances of her developing MBD, prolapsing, becoming obese, etc. and shortens her life. I would cut her pack as @MissSkittles suggested until you get to 3 to 5 insects 2 or 3 times a week.
She gapes in general like after feeding not only when im around. Okay thank you I will do that!!! I have a long bulb UVB 10.00 15W which I put above her and her plants and I also have the repti planet basking spot light which is 23W and its put right so it shines onto her and her plants.
 
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