melble68
Established Member
She looks spry and good to me. Add some live plants in there. She'll love ya for it. I'm a huge fan of live plants. Anyone can do fakeys.Live plants will also help w/ helping keep a constant humidity level.
Chameleon won't drink!
- Thread starter hockeychameleon
- Start date
melble68
Established Member
I'm always here to learn, but help me understand what stands out about more calcium in the not so good pic of her poo? I'm not familiar and want to know. From the blurry pic, I'm not seeing much of an orange urate. Hockey is verbally describing it as white urates.
btw kenny we're talking about a she.
LOL!!! don't hurt the girls feeling. 
IAmCarl
New Member
I'm always here to learn, but help me understand what stands out about more calcium in the not so good pic of her poo? I'm not familiar and want to know. From the blurry pic, I'm not seeing much of an orange urate. Hockey is verbally describing it as white urates.
btw kenny we're talking about a she.
+1
What's the giveaway with the poo?
melble68
Established Member
Ok here's the "sheit" MRI Rob. btw who's carl? Poo is such a great indicator on what's going on w/ your chameleon's hydration. Chameleon's urine and poop come out at the same time like a bird. The color of the urates (pee) is an indicator of "are they getting plenty of water". A nice white urate indicates a good hydration level. If you start seeing an orange coloration to the urates, its time to be concerned and see what you need to do about hydration. I'm sure there are also some indicators about the dark part of the poo, but that might be self explanatory. Runny, somethings wrong. Concrete block, somethings wrong. BTW, everyone should have a game plan for when something is wrong. Be pro-active and find a good vet in your area before you actually need to go see one.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/poop-101-a-120171/
melble68
Established Member
Ok I'm only going off what numerous, what I would consider to be, experts have said and showed what a normal poo looks like. I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be a 50/50 split. The super educational and fun "Poop 101" stuck thread shows normal poo's. https://www.chameleonforums.com/poop-101-a-120171/
Now my recent personal experience is with a juvenile, and due to the amount feedings and growth, I would expect more dukey than urates. Eventually that may change I guess. Kenny once again I'm here to grow my knowledge. Are you used to a 50/50 kind of a thing w/ an older cham. Something like a once every other day feeding kind of a thing? Also clue me in w/ the calcium info. I want to know. More info please.
I'm also sure "she" understands about the typo's. Its all good.
Kenny C
Member
Ok I'm only going off what numerous, what I would consider to be, experts have said and showed what a normal poo looks like. I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be a 50/50 split. The super educational and fun "Poop 101" stuck thread shows normal poo's. https://www.chameleonforums.com/poop-101-a-120171/
Now my recent personal experience is with a juvenile, and due to the amount feedings and growth, I would expect more dukey than urates. Eventually that may change I guess. Kenny once again I'm here to grow my knowledge. Are you used to a 50/50 kind of a thing w/ an older cham. Something like a once every other day feeding kind of a thing? Also clue me in w/ the calcium info. I want to know. More info please.
I'm also sure "she" understands about the typo's. Its all good.
50/50 no but the more the closer the better Golem is older now so is Roxy but both of them I have always made sure that the poop vs urates were close as possible
IAmCarl
New Member
Carl is my chameleon, electronics Mike. I understand what the poo indicators are and what normal poo should look like, I don't understand what you see in the pic that tells you what you're saying. I'm not questioning your knowledge, just interested in your diagnosis.
To me, I would like to see something to actually compare the size to. She is only 4 mos. How much are you feeding the Her (is she eating)? I'm new to the Cham thing, so just my $0.02 ;>
Kenny C
Member
Sorry yes I am used to seeing an almost 50/50 split plus that was one of the things my breeder told me to look for to measure there calcium levels. That's pretty much what I have been looking for since I got them.
melble68
Established Member
Hey Rob, this thread by the OP was talking about "my chameleon isn't drinking". Only think I said was that the urates in the picture that was posted appeared to have a pretty white urate and looked pretty good to me. The cham, by the look of the urates, didn't seem to be dehydrated.
I'm still not grasping what Kenny mentioned about the calcium part.
Mark (although I do have a brother Mike). LOL!!!!!
hockeychameleon
Member
I've only bought one "Big Dripper" in my time, and I came w/ an extra nozzle and two one foot sections of black tubing. I love "projects", so I've been making my own drippers since the first one I bought. What kind did you buy? You probably could modify it, instead of driving back to where ever you got it from.
Ok, i will modify it thanks for your help.
hockeychameleon
Member
Obviously not the best of picture, but the poo don't look to bad to me. Poop talk always makes me giggle.
Hahaha I know that feeling
hockeychameleon
Member
How can you tell about the calcium?
hockeychameleon
Member
She looks spry and good to me. Add some live plants in there. She'll love ya for it. I'm a huge fan of live plants. Anyone can do fakeys.
Okay ill take that advice
hockeychameleon
Member
I asked that question tooI'm always here to learn, but help me understand what stands out about more calcium in the not so good pic of her poo? I'm not familiar and want to know. From the blurry pic, I'm not seeing much of an orange urate. Hockey is verbally describing it as white urates.
btw kenny we're talking about a she.
. She has been having white and brown poo as you can see. Sorry about the blurry pic though. When I took the pic her red light was on because she was sleeping. Luckily I didn't wake her
melble68
Established Member
Ok wait. Hold the presses!!!!!!!! Get rid of the red light. Even the red light can and does interrupt chameleon's sleep. Remove it.
You don't need it or want it. Chameleons are perfectly fine w/ an evening drop in temps. They can comfortably deal with temps down into the 50's as long as they can warm back up the next day.
hockeychameleon
Member
Carl, i feed my cham every day!
hockeychameleon
Member
Ok wait. Hold the presses!!!!!!!! Get rid of the red light. Even the red light can and does interrupt chameleon's sleep. Remove it.
Positive? So i should not have a red light at all?
melble68
Established Member
While they're young feed them daily and almost as much as they want. While they're growing daily feedings are correct. Feed mid morning and mid day. Don't feed them right before bedtime, or they'll go to sleep w/ undigested food in their belly. Once they get to 1 and a half years or so, feedings can back off to every other day. Currently my 5 month old panther is eating about 8-12 a day. I'm imagining once he's full grown that I'll back that down to probably max 8 every other day.
Do you have a male or female? Controlling the food intake and temps for a female can help reduce egg production also.
Do you have a male or female? Controlling the food intake and temps for a female can help reduce egg production also.
