Chameleon stopped eating crickets

NashansCamos

Chameleon Enthusiast
I live in the North of the UK so its pretty cold here most of the time, a lot of people here resort to glass vivs to get the correct temperatures from what I've seen, but ive read theyre bad for chams so I got a screen cage with a stronger bulb, ive never seen him show signs he was uncomfortable with the heat, (no keeping his mouth open etc) his temps are usually around 30 c which is about 85f, reptivite is without d3 and miner-all is indoor i bought the supplements as part of a pack recommended for chameleons on Internet reptile
I am in the uk too and I use glass cages for all my chams(excluding one hybrid) with a glass cage you will want either no heat or a very low wattage bulb it is very easy for temps to get way too high with a glass cage.
 

Bobz21697

New Member
Correct just be extremely cautious as thermal burns happen fast and has he gets bigger he will be even closer to that light bulb. The 100 watt as I said sitting on the cage poses a high thermal burn risk.

So the starter pack is fine. In the US the info that we use comes from that link I gave you. the Earthpro A. The calcium Mg is similar as it is a calcium without D3. Your mineral has D3. and the rotation you currently have your supplements on is perfect.
Thank you! I'll keep an eye on him as he grows, my worry is he's currently not eating any feeders hence not ingesting any supplements, how long can he go without calcium? He hasnt properly eaten in over a week
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you! I'll keep an eye on him as he grows, my worry is he's currently not eating any feeders hence not ingesting any supplements, how long can he go without calcium? He hasnt properly eaten in over a week
So pertaining to the not eating. I see several things... I would reduce the UVB bulb to the 6%. This may be causing his decreased appetite. With supers especially if those are the feeders that he is still accepting they can get stuck on only that feeder and refuse all others. If this is the case you have to withhold supers and only offer the feeders he should be eating. Typically they are more stubborn about taking feeders they are not familiar with as well so if he ate crickets before keep offering those as well as the dubia. Make sure all feeders are size appropriate as well especially the hoppers.

Lastly if appetite does not return after doing the above then I would get a fecal done to rule out parasites.
 
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