Chameleon just dehydrated or probably other issues?

ryanells

New Member
My cham has a few different things going on, and not sure if they are serious enough to find a vet or if I can help him myself. For one thing he has been pretty dehydrated.

I went on vacation and had a neighbor feed him while I was gone. Luckily my neighbor was a total moron and didn't make sure his water dripper was going even though I told him to. So I think the poor guy went without water for about a week. His poo is bright orangish. I have been misting him a lot and he'll start licking and he lets me spray right into his mouth.

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Here is my cham with some strange lumps in his tail. they are hard and have recently appeared in the last month or so. Any idea what these are? He never rolls his tail up anymore and he used to all the time. I'm hoping its not a sign of MBD. I am kind of worried that he might have it because a while ago I stopped dusting his food for a month probably. I thought he was about done growing so wouldn't need it as much. Yeah, I know, super retarded move.

Lately he hasn't been as active, he'll still crawl around, but less. His appetite has been decreasing and he can't seem to get his tongue out very far. I held out a worm for him about 2 inches away and he weakly shot his tongue out, missing by an inch to the side. He also takes naps during the day.

He also has been rubbing his eyes against branches a lot, and there is a weird bubble on the edge of his eyes thatll protrude when he does this blinky thing. Is this a water/vitamin related thing?

Appreciate any help, and insight if he may have MBD, or if he's just dehydrated/poor diet - he'll only eat super worms. It's all hes been eating for almost a year...when he was about 6 months he would be all about crickets but then totally went on a hunger strike until I gave him worms.

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Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Male veiled chameleon, about 1.5 years old. I've had him for a year.

Handling - Usually around once every 2-3 days, sometimes more. Always let him come to me if he wants to come out.

Feeding - At first I gave him crickets, then he went on a hunger strike. Now he'll only eat super worms. It's all hes been eating for almost a year. I dust them with reptivite with D3. I use Nature Zone Total Bites for gutloading, supposed to be a total gutload thing.

Supplements - Reptivite with D3. I used to dust his food every other day, then stopped altogether for about a month. Now every day trying to get him back on track.

Watering - I use a dripper, and used to mist him a few times a day and stopped for a while. Now misting him heavily a few times a day. He used to use his tongue to get water, but now will only sometimes bite the water tube.

Fecal Description - Light orangish-white. Never tested for parasites.

History - Not sure other than I know feeding him only super worms has suck for him. Fruit flies and moths have been in his cage but he is uninterested. Any ideas on what else/how I can get him to eat other stuff?

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen cage, 12x12x24.
Lighting - 100w heat lamp and zilla tropical 25 t8 18" UVB bulb (15W). On from about 9am - 9pm.
Temperature - Not sure the exact temp but hes about 6 in from the light when he basks. At night its about 70 - 72 in the house.
Humidity - Humidity has been pretty low lately...now I've been misting few times a day.
Plants - No live plants.
Placement - In the living room, pretty high traffic. The top of his cage is prob 4 - 4.5 feet off the floor.
Location - Utah

Bonus action shot:

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Hi, Looks like you have a number of concerns - I think the best way to address them is to take your cham to the vet.

As you noticed, orange urates imply dehydration, so providing plenty of water by misting and having a dripper is a good start. Along the lines of dehydration and uric acid accumulation, I wonder if the swelling in the tail may be a sign of gout. Superworms are a highly proteic feeder, which combined with dehydration may lead to gout...

In terms of supplementing his diet, you should use straight calcium often and calcium with Vit D and othe vitamins sporadically (depending on the brand you use and specific needs - plenty of info is available in the forum). In general, it sounds like your chameleon may not get all the water and nutrients he needs - a varied diet could really help him.. Have you tried any other type of worms, flies and roaches?

Lastly, you should measure temperature and humidity and make sure to keep them within the optimal ranges for the species. They may not necessarily be the cause for the issues your reported, but they are necessary to guarantee a good recovery and long term health of your cham.
 
Im sorry your cham sitter didnt follow instructions. I hope hat im about to say helps some.
The lumps are something to be concerend about, andi would take him to a vet for that.
extra long mistings, shower time, can help with the extreme dehydration.
Your supplement schedule is way off.
You need a calcium WITHOUT d3 for every feeding.
a calcium with d3 for twice a month.
a Multivitamin for twice a month.

Regading feeding- I would try to get him to stop eating superworms. THey arent good for hima s much. I would try dubia roaches or silkworms. If you stop feeding him worms, and ONLY give him the proper bugs, then he will have to eventually eat. and he can go up to a week even without food.
You also need to improve your gutloading. FInd sandrachameleons blog on gutloading please.

Rubbing his eyes is probably because of the shedding, though the bulging im not sure about. could be he is trying to clean his eyes out.

ANother very importantt hing, your cage is way to small for an adult male.
you need a 24x24x48 cage. this should be updated as much as possible.

You need to measure your temperatures. his basking spot temp should be around 85, and it should get cooler.
YOU really should have reptiglo or reptisun UVB bulbs. they are better.


Good luck!
 
just to add.... you have had him for a year, so when is the last time you changed out your uvb bulb???? If it needs replacing(about every 6 months) then do not replace with the Zilla. Get a reptisun or reptiglo 5.0 tube light. Also as the other memeber mentioned that cage is WAY to small for that guy. Get him the proper size cage asap.
 
If I am remembering correctly zilla bulbs can be deadly. Unless they've changed their manufacturing techniques of course. That could be causing some serious issues.
 
I just put in the new Zilla bulb a couple weeks ago and have been using that brand ever since I got him. I had no idea they were such a bad brand! I will probably get the reptiglo. Also I was wrong about the cage its 16x16x30 so not super tiny. But I have been thinking he needs a bigger cage so I will get him one. Would I need a bigger UVB light then? Right now I have an 18".
 
I just put in the new Zilla bulb a couple weeks ago and have been using that brand ever since I got him. I had no idea they were such a bad brand! I will probably get the reptiglo. Also I was wrong about the cage its 16x16x30 so not super tiny. But I have been thinking he needs a bigger cage so I will get him one. Would I need a bigger UVB light then? Right now I have an 18".

even taht cage size is too small for him.
as an adult, he still needs the 24x24x48.
and you probably would need a bigger bulb. but see how it looks, how much of the uvb rays get down into the foliage.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, I got him a repti-glo 5.0 and am currently deciding on getting a reptibreeze XL (24x24x48) cage or building one myself to save money...

I got him some repti calcium without D3 and will give him that frequently. and then the Reptivite with d3 twice a month. He has been looking a lot better since this morning, crawling around a lot and seems to have more energy! I put some crickets in and I have never seen him go for food as fast as he destroyed those crickets :D Good to have him off the pure superworm diet. He was using his tongue pretty well too so maybe it was just the dehydration...although yeah kinda worried that those tail bumps might be gout.

So I need to replace the repti glo every 6 months? The box says lasts for a year.
 
He also has been rubbing his eyes against branches a lot, and there is a weird bubble on the edge of his eyes thatll protrude when he does this blinky thing. Is this a water/vitamin related thing?

Did anyone have any ideas on this? Mine has done this, but I also think he is about to shed...not sure.
 
Skyebound, I recommend you start a new thread with your chameleon's problem. You can provide a link back to this one as an illustration of the problem if you want.

It just starts to get confusing when two sets of problems, progress and solutions are being discussed.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, I got him a repti-glo 5.0 and am currently deciding on getting a reptibreeze XL (24x24x48) cage or building one myself to save money...

I got him some repti calcium without D3 and will give him that frequently. and then the Reptivite with d3 twice a month. He has been looking a lot better since this morning, crawling around a lot and seems to have more energy! I put some crickets in and I have never seen him go for food as fast as he destroyed those crickets :D Good to have him off the pure superworm diet. He was using his tongue pretty well too so maybe it was just the dehydration...although yeah kinda worried that those tail bumps might be gout.

So I need to replace the repti glo every 6 months? The box says lasts for a year.

I think a vet visit is still in order for the bumps.
i replace my uvb bulbs abotu every 9 months.
the box says a year, but people have used uvb measuring things and determined after about 6 montsh or so, the uvb outuput is reduced.
 
OK. What is the going rate for taking him to the vet? Any recommendations for a good brand of thermometer/humidity gauge? Nothing too fancy.
 
OK. What is the going rate for taking him to the vet? Any recommendations for a good brand of thermometer/humidity gauge? Nothing too fancy.

varies vet to vet. some places the exam is only 35 bucks,others it can be 70.
you just have to clal your vet, ask how much an exam is, and other tests for gout, etc.
 
every 6 months is best unless you have a UVB meter to check to bulb and its levels. The eye thing could be because of the bulb so that will definitely need to be checked out.

Like it was said above, vets vary from place to place. Be sure to ask about their experience with chameleons and reptiles. Obviously a chameleon experienced vet is best, but one that deals with reptiles is going to be better than nothing.
 
Have not read entire thread - in a rush but still felt I could add useful info


I recommend you:
  • Provide PLENTY of water
  • ensure proper humidity
  • buy a couple cheap digital themp guages and find out /monitor temperature in the cage at bottom, middle and top/basking area. Adjust lamp to ensure proper cage temps.
  • stop feeding only superworms, vastly improve prey choices (he cant only eat superworms if you stop giving him superworms - read up on how to deal with hunger strike and superworm addiction)
  • improve gutloading considerably
  • Fix supplementation - what you are doing isnt right (poor gutloading, no prey choice and poor supplementation can cause poor tongue control and other serious issues)
  • get much bigger cage
  • check UVB tube
Links that will provide info you need:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/92-hydration-importance.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/65-supplements.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/olimpia/573-chameleon-physiology-supplements.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/82-enclosures-housing.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/74-feeders.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/232-tongue-troubles.html
http://www.chameleonnews.com/04AugBeveridge.html
http://www.chameleonnews.com/10JulWeldon.html
The Importance of Temperature
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/syn/226-frequently-asked-questions.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/frequently-asked-questions-71620/
 
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Thanks for the info, ordered a new cage and already have a new UVB. He's gotten rehydrated I think and is back to eating crickets now and seems pretty happy. Along with the total bites I feed the crickets wheat germ and oats, looking for bee pollen as well. I'll probably have to order some silkworms online, he doesn't seem interested in supers anymore.

Also getting a live plant to help keep humidity up once the new cage comes in. I looked at a ficus but seemed kinda too thick/bushy, thinking maybe hibiscus would be better (if I can find one).
 
Hibiscus is loved and hated....they can be difficult in the "enclosure" environment. I'm a huge fan of Pothos plants....automatic edible vines.
 
Hibiscus is loved and hated....they can be difficult in the "enclosure" environment. I'm a huge fan of Pothos plants....automatic edible vines.

This X20! They are almost impossible to not grow as long as you dont over water or under water.
 
Dang, I was thinking a hibiscus might be ok with a plant light but maybe they are more difficult than I thought.... I'm in utah so a good half a year without sun. So I couldn't rotate em out. Pothos seems pretty good, as long as he doesn't eat too much? My chams a bit of a plant eater I think, when I had moss in the cage he liked to eat it...
 
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