Chameleon has weak grip

AmberN

New Member
Hello,

My panther chameleon who is about 2 years old has been struggling with a weak grip and I’ve recently noticed that he hasn’t been holding branches properly. He also has had a bump on his side for a long time but it never really seemed to bother him. Recently a second small one showed up on his foot and the bump came off when he shed but left a strange bump. Is he vitamin deficient or does he have a fungal infection?

Attached are pictures of him sleeping and a picture I tried to get of the bump that came off. Before it was white and sticking out. Now it’s dark and sticks out around the sides Where the skin used to meet the bump.
 

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Hello,

My panther chameleon who is about 2 years old has been struggling with a weak grip and I’ve recently noticed that he hasn’t been holding branches properly. He also has had a bump on his side for a long time but it never really seemed to bother him. Recently a second small one showed up on his foot and the bump came off when he shed but left a strange bump. Is he vitamin deficient or does he have a fungal infection?

Attached are pictures of him sleeping and a picture I tried to get of the bump that came off. Before it was white and sticking out. Now it’s dark and sticks out around the sides Where the skin used to meet the bump.
just wanted to hop in and say hello and welcome!:) your panther is such a beauty, there are a lot of awesome people here who know a lot more than me that will chime in soon and i’m sorry this is happening:(!
 
just wanted to hop in and say hello and welcome!:) your panther is such a beauty, there are a lot of awesome people here who know a lot more than me that will chime in soon and i’m sorry this is happening:(!
also i forgot to mention, but if you’d like to fill out a husbandry review it would be very helpful!
 
also i forgot to mention, but if you’d like to fill out a husbandry review it would be very helpful!
Thank you! I will do my best. Is there a template? I will do my best to organize what I have.


Cage:
2x2x4 mesh enclosure with shower curtain around three sides to keep in humidity. I have a combo of live and fake plans because I have trouble keeping game plants alive.

Misting:
5 min every morning and night as well as 2 min mid day and mid night.

Humidity:
40-70%

Temp:
Basking spot is around 80-82 and mid cage is 70. Should this be higher? Our place is normally kept at 69 degrees.
I use a 75w basking bulb.

UVB:
18inch T5 HO linear bulb

Feeding:

Typically crickets or dubia roaches every other day. I typically dust with calcium powder w/out D3 and try to dust with calcium w/ d3 or vitamin at the end of each week. He also gets super worms, BSFL and waxworms depending on what I have. Gut loading may be where I am lacking? What do you gutload with? I could be inconsistent with dusting as well as I don’t keep track and just do my best to remember?

Anything else you would like to know feel free to ask.
 
I would stop feeding the vitamin w/D3 every week. A good schedule would be twice a month, so say the 1st and 15. And here are a few good gutloading options
 

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Hi there, can you please send pics of the supplements you are currently using or tell us the brands. Also, when was the last time you changed your UVB bulb? Typically in cases like this in my opinion I would recommend taking him to a vet. He may need blood work to see if there is an imbalance internally. Do you have a vet that sees chameleons?
 
Hi there, can you please send pics of the supplements you are currently using or tell us the brands. Also, when was the last time you changed your UVB bulb? Typically in cases like this in my opinion I would recommend taking him to a vet. He may need blood work to see if there is an imbalance internally. Do you have a vet that sees chameleons?
These are what I use. I will do my best to schedule him an appointment. I have one or two near me. I have had these for a while and they may be expired? Also his uvb was changed in may so he is most likely due for a new one?
 

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Hi there welcome to the forum. Here is the complete form. If you could copy and paste that into your reply then fill it out. Also add pics of the entire cage lighting down. And a few more of him so we can see overall body.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
  • Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 2yr and 4 months old, has been in my care since he was 3 months old.
  • Handling - almost never handle
  • Feeding - I feel him mostly dubia around 4 and crickets around 5. One or two superworms as a treat. He also gets BSFL and wax works every once in a while. I feed him every other day. I would say I lack in gut loading at times but I try to give them dark greens.
  • Supplements - i use reptical w/out D3 mostly and calcium w/ D3 or a multivitamin alternating at the end of each week. ( however I go my memory and I am not very regimented)
  • Watering - I use a mist king misting system that mists in the morning around the time the light turn on and at night around the time the light turn on for 5 min. As well as noon and midnight for 2. I see him eat and drink.
  • Fecal Description - he has not been tested for parasites however his urates look white.
  • History - he has had the bump on his side for about a year. It didn’t bother him so I didn’t do anything. It recently came off with his last shed but had left a mark. However, another one formed on his foot as well recently.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 screen enclosure with three sides covered in shower curtain
  • Lighting - I use reprising 75w basking bulb. Also reprising T5 HO linear UVB bulb. This bulb was last changed in may. I also use a plant light.
  • Temperature - my basking spot I believe is around 80. Mid cage where his hydrometer/thermometer is is around 70. I use am I fared thermometer. Are you supposed to point it on the basking branch?
  • Humidity - typically between 40-75%. I use a hydrometer in his cage.
  • Plants - I use a combo of live and fake. I try and use pathos however my plant light is too powerful and I think it kills them so they ever grow to be big and fill it out like I want them to.
  • Placement - cage is in the bed room not in high traffic area. We have a fan that we run every night in the room. The top of tue cage is 6ft from the floor.
  • Location - i am in Michigan.
 

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He has a weak grip and hasn’t been very active. He also has white lumps that form however one camp off in his last shed. I am also iust now seeing that some of his Supplements are expired:(
 
Hun I can go through everything in about an hour. But right off the bat is that eucalyptus you have in the cage? If it is pull it asap... This is toxic to them and extremely harsh on their respiratory system.
 
Hun I can go through everything in about an hour. But right off the bat is that eucalyptus you have in the cage? If it is pull it asap... This is toxic to them and extremely harsh on their respiratory system.
It’s the fake plant. But that’s good to know. Thank you!
 
See my feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have?

  • Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 2yr and 4 months old, has been in my care since he was 3 months old.
  • Handling - almost never handle
  • Feeding - I feel him mostly dubia around 4 and crickets around 5. One or two superworms as a treat. He also gets BSFL and wax works every once in a while. I feed him every other day. I would say I lack in gut loading at times but I try to give them dark greens. So he is a little overweight. You can tell by how full his casque and cheeks are. After a year old they should be on an every other day feeding of 3-5 feeders. For gutload if doing all fresh greens is a bit to keep up with you can get repashy bug burger mix according to directions and then put it in a tupperware in your fridge. Cut out blocks of it for your feeders.
  • Supplements - i use reptical w/out D3 mostly and calcium w/ D3 or a multivitamin alternating at the end of each week. ( however I go my memory and I am not very regimented)
  • Watering - I use a mist king misting system that mists in the morning around the time the light turn on and at night around the time the light turn on for 5 min. As well as noon and midnight for 2. I see him eat and drink. I would switch up his supplements... Drop the calcium with D3 and the reptivite without D3 and replace these with Repashy Calcium plus LoD version. Then you would lightly dust feeders on say the 1st and 15th of the month. Then at all other feedings you would do calcium without D3 lightly dusted.
  • Fecal Description - he has not been tested for parasites however his urates look white. This is always a good thing to test for however with him being obese I doubt there is a parasite issue. They typically are much thinner when they have a parasite load.
  • History - he has had the bump on his side for about a year. It didn’t bother him so I didn’t do anything. It recently came off with his last shed but had left a mark. However, another one formed on his foot as well recently. Concern with this is what is it... There are a few things like papiloma that you really do want to know if that is the cause as it is contagious to other reptiles. Also depending on what it is there could be further health issues that stem from it.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 screen enclosure with three sides covered in shower curtain
  • Lighting - I use reprising 75w basking bulb. Also reprising T5 HO linear UVB bulb. This bulb was last changed in may. I also use a plant light. For UVB which bulb strength are you using?
  • Temperature - my basking spot I believe is around 80. Mid cage where his hydrometer/thermometer is is around 70. I use am I fared thermometer. Are you supposed to point it on the basking branch? so these will only tell you surface temp. You really want a temp gauge with probe hooked in at the basking branch below the heat to get an accurate reading on basking temp.
  • Humidity - typically between 40-75%. I use a hydrometer in his cage. Anything above 60% daytime is going to be too much for him. Typically looking for a 50% daytime.
  • Plants - I use a combo of live and fake. I try and use pathos however my plant light is too powerful and I think it kills them so they ever grow to be big and fill it out like I want them to. I do not think it is your lighting. Your plant lighting is what you want to have. Typically with pothos being too dry or far to wet will kill them off.
  • Placement - cage is in the bed room not in high traffic area. We have a fan that we run every night in the room. The top of tue cage is 6ft from the floor.
  • Location - i am in Michigan.
My panther chameleon who is about 2 years old has been struggling with a weak grip and I’ve recently noticed that he hasn’t been holding branches properly. He also has had a bump on his side for a long time but it never really seemed to bother him. Recently a second small one showed up on his foot and the bump came off when he shed but left a strange bump. Is he vitamin deficient or does he have a fungal infection?

Attached are pictures of him sleeping and a picture I tried to get of the bump that came off. Before it was white and sticking out. Now it’s dark and sticks out around the sides Where the skin used to meet the bump.

For the bumps... You want to get him into a good reptile vet and have a biopsy done. Concern about the grip is what could be causing it. Bloodwork to rule out renal issues would be a good thing. Do you have a really good reptile vet you could take him to?
 
See my feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have?

  • Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 2yr and 4 months old, has been in my care since he was 3 months old.
  • Handling - almost never handle
  • Feeding - I feel him mostly dubia around 4 and crickets around 5. One or two superworms as a treat. He also gets BSFL and wax works every once in a while. I feed him every other day. I would say I lack in gut loading at times but I try to give them dark greens. So he is a little overweight. You can tell by how full his casque and cheeks are. After a year old they should be on an every other day feeding of 3-5 feeders. For gutload if doing all fresh greens is a bit to keep up with you can get repashy bug burger mix according to directions and then put it in a tupperware in your fridge. Cut out blocks of it for your feeders.
  • Supplements - i use reptical w/out D3 mostly and calcium w/ D3 or a multivitamin alternating at the end of each week. ( however I go my memory and I am not very regimented)
  • Watering - I use a mist king misting system that mists in the morning around the time the light turn on and at night around the time the light turn on for 5 min. As well as noon and midnight for 2. I see him eat and drink. I would switch up his supplements... Drop the calcium with D3 and the reptivite without D3 and replace these with Repashy Calcium plus LoD version. Then you would lightly dust feeders on say the 1st and 15th of the month. Then at all other feedings you would do calcium without D3 lightly dusted.
  • Fecal Description - he has not been tested for parasites however his urates look white. This is always a good thing to test for however with him being obese I doubt there is a parasite issue. They typically are much thinner when they have a parasite load.
  • History - he has had the bump on his side for about a year. It didn’t bother him so I didn’t do anything. It recently came off with his last shed but had left a mark. However, another one formed on his foot as well recently. Concern with this is what is it... There are a few things like papiloma that you really do want to know if that is the cause as it is contagious to other reptiles. Also depending on what it is there could be further health issues that stem from it.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 screen enclosure with three sides covered in shower curtain
  • Lighting - I use reprising 75w basking bulb. Also reprising T5 HO linear UVB bulb. This bulb was last changed in may. I also use a plant light. For UVB which bulb strength are you using?
  • Temperature - my basking spot I believe is around 80. Mid cage where his hydrometer/thermometer is is around 70. I use am I fared thermometer. Are you supposed to point it on the basking branch? so these will only tell you surface temp. You really want a temp gauge with probe hooked in at the basking branch below the heat to get an accurate reading on basking temp.
  • Humidity - typically between 40-75%. I use a hydrometer in his cage. Anything above 60% daytime is going to be too much for him. Typically looking for a 50% daytime.
  • Plants - I use a combo of live and fake. I try and use pathos however my plant light is too powerful and I think it kills them so they ever grow to be big and fill it out like I want them to. I do not think it is your lighting. Your plant lighting is what you want to have. Typically with pothos being too dry or far to wet will kill them off.
  • Placement - cage is in the bed room not in high traffic area. We have a fan that we run every night in the room. The top of tue cage is 6ft from the floor.
  • Location - i am in Michigan.
My panther chameleon who is about 2 years old has been struggling with a weak grip and I’ve recently noticed that he hasn’t been holding branches properly. He also has had a bump on his side for a long time but it never really seemed to bother him. Recently a second small one showed up on his foot and the bump came off when he shed but left a strange bump. Is he vitamin deficient or does he have a fungal infection?

Attached are pictures of him sleeping and a picture I tried to get of the bump that came off. Before it was white and sticking out. Now it’s dark and sticks out around the sides Where the skin used to meet the bump.

For the bumps... You want to get him into a good reptile vet and have a biopsy done. Concern about the grip is what could be causing it. Bloodwork to rule out renal issues would be a good thing. Do you have a really good reptile vet you could take him to?
There is one or two in my area. I’ll call and see when I can get an appointment. I use a 5.0 bulb. Also is this the supplement you’re talking about
 

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See my feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have?

  • Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 2yr and 4 months old, has been in my care since he was 3 months old.
  • Handling - almost never handle
  • Feeding - I feel him mostly dubia around 4 and crickets around 5. One or two superworms as a treat. He also gets BSFL and wax works every once in a while. I feed him every other day. I would say I lack in gut loading at times but I try to give them dark greens. So he is a little overweight. You can tell by how full his casque and cheeks are. After a year old they should be on an every other day feeding of 3-5 feeders. For gutload if doing all fresh greens is a bit to keep up with you can get repashy bug burger mix according to directions and then put it in a tupperware in your fridge. Cut out blocks of it for your feeders.
  • Supplements - i use reptical w/out D3 mostly and calcium w/ D3 or a multivitamin alternating at the end of each week. ( however I go my memory and I am not very regimented)
  • Watering - I use a mist king misting system that mists in the morning around the time the light turn on and at night around the time the light turn on for 5 min. As well as noon and midnight for 2. I see him eat and drink. I would switch up his supplements... Drop the calcium with D3 and the reptivite without D3 and replace these with Repashy Calcium plus LoD version. Then you would lightly dust feeders on say the 1st and 15th of the month. Then at all other feedings you would do calcium without D3 lightly dusted.
  • Fecal Description - he has not been tested for parasites however his urates look white. This is always a good thing to test for however with him being obese I doubt there is a parasite issue. They typically are much thinner when they have a parasite load.
  • History - he has had the bump on his side for about a year. It didn’t bother him so I didn’t do anything. It recently came off with his last shed but had left a mark. However, another one formed on his foot as well recently. Concern with this is what is it... There are a few things like papiloma that you really do want to know if that is the cause as it is contagious to other reptiles. Also depending on what it is there could be further health issues that stem from it.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 screen enclosure with three sides covered in shower curtain
  • Lighting - I use reprising 75w basking bulb. Also reprising T5 HO linear UVB bulb. This bulb was last changed in may. I also use a plant light. For UVB which bulb strength are you using?
  • Temperature - my basking spot I believe is around 80. Mid cage where his hydrometer/thermometer is is around 70. I use am I fared thermometer. Are you supposed to point it on the basking branch? so these will only tell you surface temp. You really want a temp gauge with probe hooked in at the basking branch below the heat to get an accurate reading on basking temp.
  • Humidity - typically between 40-75%. I use a hydrometer in his cage. Anything above 60% daytime is going to be too much for him. Typically looking for a 50% daytime.
  • Plants - I use a combo of live and fake. I try and use pathos however my plant light is too powerful and I think it kills them so they ever grow to be big and fill it out like I want them to. I do not think it is your lighting. Your plant lighting is what you want to have. Typically with pothos being too dry or far to wet will kill them off.
  • Placement - cage is in the bed room not in high traffic area. We have a fan that we run every night in the room. The top of tue cage is 6ft from the floor.
  • Location - i am in Michigan.
My panther chameleon who is about 2 years old has been struggling with a weak grip and I’ve recently noticed that he hasn’t been holding branches properly. He also has had a bump on his side for a long time but it never really seemed to bother him. Recently a second small one showed up on his foot and the bump came off when he shed but left a strange bump. Is he vitamin deficient or does he have a fungal infection?

Attached are pictures of him sleeping and a picture I tried to get of the bump that came off. Before it was white and sticking out. Now it’s dark and sticks out around the sides Where the skin used to meet the bump.

For the bumps... You want to get him into a good reptile vet and have a biopsy done. Concern about the grip is what could be causing it. Bloodwork to rule out renal issues would be a good thing. Do you have a really good reptile vet you could take him to?
Also thank you for your help. It is very appreciated!!
 
Yes that is the supplement. And for the UVB with it being a 5.0 you want a distance of 8-9 inches from the bottom of the fixture sitting on the screen to the highest branches below. It is best if you can tie in a branch so that it runs parallel to the fixture directly below it. This will ensure a 3.0 UVI. And since this is a Zoomed bulb I would go ahead a replace it every 9 months.

My pleasure please let me know if you have any questions. And I would expect a vet to want to run blood work. Do not let them give vitamin shots or dewormer. I have seen chams go downhill when a vet gives vitamin shots. And with the dewormer unless a fecal test is performed and came back positive for parasites then you would not want to blanket treat without knowing. Meds can be hard on their organ function. So treating only when needed is best.
 
Yes that is the supplement. And for the UVB with it being a 5.0 you want a distance of 8-9 inches from the bottom of the fixture sitting on the screen to the highest branches below. It is best if you can tie in a branch so that it runs parallel to the fixture directly below it. This will ensure a 3.0 UVI. And since this is a Zoomed bulb I would go ahead a replace it every 9 months.

My pleasure please let me know if you have any questions. And I would expect a vet to want to run blood work. Do not let them give vitamin shots or dewormer. I have seen chams go downhill when a vet gives vitamin shots. And with the dewormer unless a fecal test is performed and came back positive for parasites then you would not want to blanket treat without knowing. Meds can be hard on their organ function. So treating only when needed is best.
Thank you very much for the advice! Hopefully ge gets better soon.
 
Yes that is the supplement. And for the UVB with it being a 5.0 you want a distance of 8-9 inches from the bottom of the fixture sitting on the screen to the highest branches below. It is best if you can tie in a branch so that it runs parallel to the fixture directly below it. This will ensure a 3.0 UVI. And since this is a Zoomed bulb I would go ahead a replace it every 9 months.

My pleasure please let me know if you have any questions. And I would expect a vet to want to run blood work. Do not let them give vitamin shots or dewormer. I have seen chams go downhill when a vet gives vitamin shots. And with the dewormer unless a fecal test is performed and came back positive for parasites then you would not want to blanket treat without knowing. Meds can be hard on their organ function. So treating only when needed is best.
Update:
He’s at the vet and he is getting blood work that should come back in a couple days. This vet wanted to give him antibiotics every three days, a calcium shot, and dewormer. I denied them since they didn’t actually know that he had a parasite. They also don’t know that he has an infection. Is the calcium shot a good idea? They said his ankle was swollen so he may have gout. They also wanted to do x-rays. Is that a good idea?
 
Update:
He’s at the vet and he is getting blood work that should come back in a couple days. This vet wanted to give him antibiotics every three days, a calcium shot, and dewormer. I denied them since they didn’t actually know that he had a parasite. They also don’t know that he has an infection. Is the calcium shot a good idea? They said his ankle was swollen so he may have gout. They also wanted to do x-rays. Is that a good idea?
So I would personally not allow the dewormer... Calcium shot they may be thinking he is deficient. If they took an xray that would indicate a need for increased calcium without D3 to strengthen the bones... But I would have them do an xray first to see if there is an issue. I have seen them prescribe an oral liquid calcium for this to strengthen the bones. Why antibiotics? Are they suspecting something or hearing an issue with breathing? What did they say about the bump?
 
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