Chameleon has been lethargic (Not moving when I get near her, eyes not opening) and she turned black this morning after I woke her up.

W

WarBritain

New Member
I filled this out too to better help. I understand the black is stress and I don't blame her I mean she was waking up to a massive predator poking her And misting her cage, I'm more worried about her lethargic behaviors such as the eyes closed. She only turns green when it's time for bed too other than that she's either a very sandy color with black stripes when in the light and a mix of green and sandy colors when not.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Veiled Chameleon, Female, about 5 months old. A week and a half.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I've handled her twice.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Crickets, about 3-6 a day. I feed her first thing in the morning around 6:35. With fruits such as blueberries, apples, blackberries and vegatables such as caarrots, and lettuce.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Repticalcium without D3 and Reptavite with D3. I dust 2/3 of the crickets I feed her.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I mist and use a dripper. I mist her twice a day for 2-4 minutes with a hand mister and I use a dripper. I have seen her drinking but not in the last three days.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The First two days I got her the droppings were very slimy and greenish/yellowish, after that they were hard and brown. She has not been tested in my care and I do not know if she has been previously tested.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. None

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? I have a Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Medium size which is 16 x 16 x 30-inches.

    ​

  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I have the ZooMed Tropical UVB & Heat Lighting Kit. This contains a Zoo Med;s Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb with I turn on 30 minutes after my morning misting and i leave it on until I turn it off which is around 7:30 - 8:15 and I do not turn it on untill the next morning. I also have a ReptiSun 5.0 Mini Compact Fluorescent which I turn on at the same time as the Daylight Bulb and I leave on untill around 8:45.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? The temp range I have created is 60-90 with her basking spot being around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The lowest overnight temp I have had is 59 which occured a day after I got her. I measure these temps with multiple Zoo Med digital thermometers.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I am not sure of my humidity levels because I don't have an way to measure them yet. I try to maintain humidty levels with the misting and dripper.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I am using artifical plants.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • This is the general layout of my room with the smaller beige rectangle being my bathroom and the larger beige square being my actual bedroom. Her cage is located on a little desk that resides in a small area of my room that has a cutout. I will show actual pictures if required. She is in the dark pink rectangle. She is surrounded by two walls on her left and back side. There is one air vent inside my room on the left wall near the top left corner of the large beige square, there are no fans and it is a medium traffic area but my door is always closed. The top of the cage is about 6 ft, 6in. Off the ground 1704463791124.png
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Rochester, New York.
 
actual pictures of everything will definitely give a better idea of what's going on! Take pics of your enclosure, chameleon, any supplements you give her :)
 
naterowley said:
actual pictures of everything will definitely give a better idea of what's going on! Take pics of your enclosure, chameleon, any supplements you give her :)
Click to expand...
I will do, I am at school right now so I had to make due. Also I have looked more into it and I have been using the infamous death kit from Zoo Med which might be why my Cham is having troubles.
 
WarBritain said:
I will do, I am at school right now so I had to make do. Also I have looked more into it and I have been using the infamous death kit from Zoo Med which might be why my Cham is having troubles.
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Yep everything you bought is junk I got the same kit plenty of us have made that mistake. I’m gonna break the bad news for you, theirs maybe 2 things you can salvage from that kit for now and their is a lot of things wrong with your husbandry because of it. Let me list what is okay and what needs changed, the cage is too small but if your Cham is a baby that’s fine for a few months, you can keep the zoomed thermometer probe everything else is TRASH. The dual head fixture yeah it’s way too small it also doesnt even give the output your bulb says and also they give a blue daytime bulb in that kit and a compact uvb bulb. The compact uvb bulb is notorious for causing the problems you’re talking about and even burning your Cham/causing blindness. So let’s talk about some things to change and make the price for that a minimum we won’t choose the best products just what is necessary, first is the uvb, you’ll need linear uvb I use a zoomed T5 it was $35 for the fixture and $15 for the bulb I found this at petsmart so that’s $50 put a 5.0 reptisun in it. Your going to need a deep dome fixture for your heat bulb probably $20 with a $10 60w reptile basking bulb or incandescent bulb don’t choose any colored bulb. Remove the fake plant and go buy a new one pothos is loved by most chams and owner this will run $20-$50. And be planning on buying the new cage that meets the actual specifications for an adult chameleon it will run around $100. You’ll expect to spend the same thing you spent on the kit to repair the kit, but once you get your new cage at least you can move all your electronics over and they will be right. I’m just explaining how to fix your kit I don’t know what your chameleon is experiencing but this is a start this kit is infamous for causing the problems your talking about which is why it’s called the death kit. Also don’t ever let her temps get below 60 degrees. Also we had a little ordeal about this in a different thread but their isn’t any reason to feed the fruits and veg to your Cham just go ahead and feed that to the crickets that way she can actually get the content those fruits/veg have to offer in a safe way. You should be dusting the reptivite with d3 on the crickets every 14 days and dusting calcium on the crickets at every feeding.
 
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Kodyf said:
Also don’t ever let her temps get below 60 degrees I personally keep my temps at night between 68-72.
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They actually really need the night time cool down. Recommended is anywhere from 55-65 at night. But definitely below 70 this is due to most people running foggers at night. These should not be used if you are not achieving cold night time temps which would be below that 70 mark. Typically most of us will do a cool down at night between 60-65 especially if we are fogging. The warmer the ambient temps are the higher risk of RI development for them with fogging.
 
WarBritain said:
I will do, I am at school right now so I had to make due. Also I have looked more into it and I have been using the infamous death kit from Zoo Med which might be why my Cham is having troubles.
Click to expand...
@MissSkittles will do a full husbandry review for you. When you get home from school post pics of not only the complete set up she is in but pics of her as well. I am concerned about the lethargy and her going black when she has only been in your care for a week and a half. This is a bit fast for a shut down with a cham which can indicate something else from prior to you could be going on.
 
I’ll be splitting this up into two parts. Not only do I tend to talk a lot, but I think it’s easier to absorb the info.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Veiled Chameleon, Female, about 5 months old. A week and a half. I’d like to see some pics to get a better idea/confirmation of age and confirmation of gender. Pics of the back of the back feet would be helpful too.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I've handled her twice. Ok. It’s important to build some trust with her. Even though she may never be very friendly, trust is important. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Crickets, about 3-6 a day. This isn’t really enough for her right now. Although she is at an age where we need to be careful not to overfeed (reason related to sexual maturity and egg production), she is still growing and needs good nutrition. I would be giving her around 8-10 feeders daily right now, assuming she is indeed five months old. In another month or two is when you’ll start slowly reducing her diet. Also, variety of feeders is best. I feed her first thing in the morning around 6:35. With fruits such as blueberries, apples, blackberries and vegatables such as caarrots, and lettuce. You really want to have more veggies and greens than fruit for your feeders. Adding a couple of graphics below for you.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Repticalcium without D3 and Reptavite with D3. How often are you using each? I dust 2/3 of the crickets I feed her. You can dust all, but do so lightly. You don’t want your bugs to look like powdered donuts. Use the calcium without D3 at every feeding except when using the ReptiVite with D3 at one feeding every other week.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I mist and use a dripper. I mist her twice a day for 2-4 minutes with a hand mister and I use a dripper. How long do you have the dripper going each day? Usually just 15-20 minutes a day is more than adequate. I have seen her drinking but not in the last three days. Many chameleons are secretive about drinking, so we look to the urate to determine hydration status.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The First two days I got her the droppings were very slimy and greenish/yellowish, That’s not so good after that they were hard and brown. She has not been tested in my care and I do not know if she has been previously tested. I’m going to guess she’s never been tested. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal done. What color is her urate? Is it white? Yellow? Orange? All white or mostly white with just a bit of yellow on one end is good - your chameleon is hydrated. All or mostly dark orange or yellow is dehydrated.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. None
  • IMG_0151.jpeg
    IMG_1188.jpeg
 
Beman said:
They actually really need the night time cool down. Recommended is anywhere from 55-65 at night. But definitely below 70 this is due to most people running foggers at night. These should not be used if you are not achieving cold night time temps which would be below that 70 mark. Typically most of us will do a cool down at night between 60-65 especially if we are fogging. The warmer the ambient temps are the higher risk of RI development for them with fogging.
Click to expand...
I appreciate this info, I haven’t been fogging at all recently just spraying I assumed below 65 was too cold my Cham has turned black in those temps and she really doesn’t like it so I don’t let them get below 65 maybe it’s because she is a juvenile
 
Kodyf said:
I appreciate this info, I haven’t been fogging at all recently just spraying I assumed below 65 was too cold my Cham has turned black in those temps and she really doesn’t like it so I don’t let them get below 65 maybe it’s because she is a juvenile
Click to expand...
You can safely drop her to 65 at night at her age... She should not be going black or dark at night when sleeping. Black is most typically associated with anger/fear which means there is an external stimulus that is causing the reaction. Their colors will always go very pale at night because they are sleeping. look at the entire environment to ensure she is sleeping properly. I have seen something as simple as having a tv/computer/led room lights on in a room where the cage is can interrupt their sleep.
 
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? I have a Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Medium size which is 16 x 16 x 30-inches. Yes, I think most of us start off with this size and then learn that it’s too small. As your little girl grows, which will happen super quickly, she will be needing much more space. The minimum size is a 2x2x4’ enclosure. However, if you can go bigger, she’ll appreciate the extra space. This is what I’ve done and is pretty easy. https://chameleonacademy.com/double-wide-chameleon-cage-project/

    ​

  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I have the ZooMed Tropical UVB & Heat Lighting Kit. This contains a Zoo Med;s Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb with I turn on 30 minutes after my morning misting and i leave it on until I turn it off which is around 7:30 - 8:15 and I do not turn it on untill the next morning. I also have a ReptiSun 5.0 Mini Compact Fluorescent which I turn on at the same time as the Daylight Bulb and I leave on untill around 8:45. This is perhaps the biggest problem with the chameleon kit - the uvb is basically worthless any farther away than 2-3”. The standard and what you’ll need to get asap is a linear T5 ho with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Then the basking branch needs to be about 8-9” below the lights. You will most likely need a lower wattage basking bulb. I would say to start with a 60w and see what temps that gives. Avoid colored lights.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? The temp range I have created is 60-90 with her basking spot being around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m a bit confused. If the basking area is 80, then where is she getting 90? The basking branch should be the highest branch in the enclosure (that is below the lights). 80 is perfect and you don’t need or want any higher. The lowest overnight temp I have had is 59 which occured a day after I got her. I measure these temps with multiple Zoo Med digital thermometers. What are your night temps usually?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I am not sure of my humidity levels because I don't have a way to measure them yet. This is just as important as knowing temps. Too humid during the day places her at higher risk for a respiratory infection. You want humidity to be between 30-50% during the day. If your night temps are consistently below at least 68, then you can run a cool mist humidifier and boost humidity as high as it’ll go. This simulates the hydration chameleons get in the wild thru night time fog. I try to maintain humidty levels with the misting and dripper. See next section.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I am using artifical plants. The best way to maintain humidity is with live plants. Our sweet veiled girls also really enjoy nibbling to completely devouring their plants, so it’s important that they be clean, safe and real. This will help. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/ Pothos is now your new bff. Some plants will need a plant light, so plan accordingly. Pothos, philodendron (not on list but I use with my veileds), tradescantia and spider plants all do okay without special lighting. Remove all artificial plants. It only takes one nibble to cause a potentially fatal bowel obstruction. I hang my fake plants on the outside of my enclosure (usually the door) to give my chams more privacy.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • This is the general layout of my room with the smaller beige rectangle being my bathroom and the larger beige square being my actual bedroom. Her cage is located on a little desk that resides in a small area of my room that has a cutout. I will show actual pictures if required. She is in the dark pink rectangle. She is surrounded by two walls on her left and back side. There is one air vent inside my room on the left wall near the top left corner of the large beige square, there are no fans and it is a medium traffic area but my door is always closed. The top of the cage is about 6 ft, 6in. Off the Ok. Height is safety for chameleons.
  • I have to ask - are you aware that even if she never sees a male, she will routinely produce and lay eggs? She can start this as young as 5-6 months old. Generally, they will lay eggs every 3-4 months and the number of eggs they produce is directly related to how much they eat. Because producing large amounts of eggs increases risks for complications such as egg binding and the whole process takes so very much out of our girls that it shortens their lives, we take measures to reduce egg production and laying. This will help explain it. http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html Unfortunately, I don’t have the luxury right now to further talk your ears(?eyes) off and first you need to get your husbandry down as perfect as possible. When you have time, do check this out. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/help-please.191685/page-3#post-1789678
  • For being lethargic and having eyes closed, while I’m not a vet and can only guess what the problem may be, my guess is improper uvb and possibly giving the supplements incorrectly. If you’ve been using the ReptiVite more than once every other week, she’s been getting too much and some are fat soluble vitamins that can quickly build up. It’s also very possible that she had improper care where you got her from. You don’t say where she came from. If it was a chain pet store, they provide very questionable care and very often the poor animals they sell are sickly. Get the correct uvb asap and start feeding her more and with variety. Most of us buy feeders on line to get good variety. Many vendors sell variety packs. Check the forum sponsors. https://www.chameleonforums.com/sponsors/?tag=food Make an appointment with a good vet who has experience with chameleons for a wellness check and fecal. Parasites can cause so many serious problems. If you need help finding a vet near you, we can probably help. Just ask.
  • Do post pics of your girl, her back heels and enclosure. I won’t be around until later tonight, but there’s many others who can/will be happy to help you further. I’m very glad that you’ve made your way here. :)
 
Kodyf said:
let’s talk about some things to change and make the price for that a minimum we won’t choose the best products just what is necessary, first is the uvb, you’ll need linear uvb I use a zoomed T5 it was $35 for the fixture and $15 for the bulb I found this at petsmart so that’s $50 put a 5.0 reptisun in it. Your going to need a deep dome fixture for your heat bulb probably $20 with a $10 60w reptile basking bulb or incandescent bulb don’t choose any colored bulb. Remove the fake plant and go buy a new one pothos is loved by most chams and owner this will run $20-$50. And be planning on buying the new cage that meets the actual specifications for an adult chameleon it will run around $100.
Click to expand...
Don’t forget to make some of those changes to the infamous kit, their are better products on the market than what I suggested but the ones I recommended would cost the least amount to get the chameleon in a habitable cage for now. And I agree with everything @MissSkittles and @Beman have said they have given great information for you and I also agree you should have him seen by a vet.
 
Hello all, I completely forgot about my post here so here are my updates.
I went home and she seemed to be fine. I did modify the cage a bit by adding more branches so that she can be closer to her basking spot and she seemed to really like that. I think the main problem was the UvB bulb being really weak and the branch not close enough. I also bought a 10 UVB bulb but I haven't put it in yet because I'm seeing how she does with the 5.0 UVB with the branches being closer. I actually didn't buy the kit myself, a friend bought it for me as a christmas gift. I'll take some photos of the husbandry when I'm home if my Cham lets me.
 
Beman said:
@MissSkittles will do a full husbandry review for you. When you get home from school post pics of not only the complete set up she is in but pics of her as well. I am concerned about the lethargy and her going black when she has only been in your care for a week and a half. This is a bit fast for a shut down with a cham which can indicate something else from prior to you could be going on.
Click to expand...
She hasn't turned black since or any really dark color, I believe she was just really stressed out at me putting my hands all in the cage. Her lethargy has seem to of gone away so she might of just been really tired.
 
MissSkittles said:
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? I have a Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Medium size which is 16 x 16 x 30-inches. Yes, I think most of us start off with this size and then learn that it’s too small. As your little girl grows, which will happen super quickly, she will be needing much more space. The minimum size is a 2x2x4’ enclosure. However, if you can go bigger, she’ll appreciate the extra space. This is what I’ve done and is pretty easy. https://chameleonacademy.com/double-wide-chameleon-cage-project/

    ​

  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I have the ZooMed Tropical UVB & Heat Lighting Kit. This contains a Zoo Med;s Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb with I turn on 30 minutes after my morning misting and i leave it on until I turn it off which is around 7:30 - 8:15 and I do not turn it on untill the next morning. I also have a ReptiSun 5.0 Mini Compact Fluorescent which I turn on at the same time as the Daylight Bulb and I leave on untill around 8:45. This is perhaps the biggest problem with the chameleon kit - the uvb is basically worthless any farther away than 2-3”. The standard and what you’ll need to get asap is a linear T5 ho with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Then the basking branch needs to be about 8-9” below the lights. You will most likely need a lower wattage basking bulb. I would say to start with a 60w and see what temps that gives. Avoid colored lights.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? The temp range I have created is 60-90 with her basking spot being around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m a bit confused. If the basking area is 80, then where is she getting 90? The basking branch should be the highest branch in the enclosure (that is below the lights). 80 is perfect and you don’t need or want any higher. The lowest overnight temp I have had is 59 which occured a day after I got her. I measure these temps with multiple Zoo Med digital thermometers. What are your night temps usually?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I am not sure of my humidity levels because I don't have a way to measure them yet. This is just as important as knowing temps. Too humid during the day places her at higher risk for a respiratory infection. You want humidity to be between 30-50% during the day. If your night temps are consistently below at least 68, then you can run a cool mist humidifier and boost humidity as high as it’ll go. This simulates the hydration chameleons get in the wild thru night time fog. I try to maintain humidty levels with the misting and dripper. See next section.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I am using artifical plants. The best way to maintain humidity is with live plants. Our sweet veiled girls also really enjoy nibbling to completely devouring their plants, so it’s important that they be clean, safe and real. This will help. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/ Pothos is now your new bff. Some plants will need a plant light, so plan accordingly. Pothos, philodendron (not on list but I use with my veileds), tradescantia and spider plants all do okay without special lighting. Remove all artificial plants. It only takes one nibble to cause a potentially fatal bowel obstruction. I hang my fake plants on the outside of my enclosure (usually the door) to give my chams more privacy.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • This is the general layout of my room with the smaller beige rectangle being my bathroom and the larger beige square being my actual bedroom. Her cage is located on a little desk that resides in a small area of my room that has a cutout. I will show actual pictures if required. She is in the dark pink rectangle. She is surrounded by two walls on her left and back side. There is one air vent inside my room on the left wall near the top left corner of the large beige square, there are no fans and it is a medium traffic area but my door is always closed. The top of the cage is about 6 ft, 6in. Off the Ok. Height is safety for chameleons.
  • I have to ask - are you aware that even if she never sees a male, she will routinely produce and lay eggs? She can start this as young as 5-6 months old. Generally, they will lay eggs every 3-4 months and the number of eggs they produce is directly related to how much they eat. Because producing large amounts of eggs increases risks for complications such as egg binding and the whole process takes so very much out of our girls that it shortens their lives, we take measures to reduce egg production and laying. This will help explain it. http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html Unfortunately, I don’t have the luxury right now to further talk your ears(?eyes) off and first you need to get your husbandry down as perfect as possible. When you have time, do check this out. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/help-please.191685/page-3#post-1789678
  • For being lethargic and having eyes closed, while I’m not a vet and can only guess what the problem may be, my guess is improper uvb and possibly giving the supplements incorrectly. If you’ve been using the ReptiVite more than once every other week, she’s been getting too much and some are fat soluble vitamins that can quickly build up. It’s also very possible that she had improper care where you got her from. You don’t say where she came from. If it was a chain pet store, they provide very questionable care and very often the poor animals they sell are sickly. Get the correct uvb asap and start feeding her more and with variety. Most of us buy feeders on line to get good variety. Many vendors sell variety packs. Check the forum sponsors. https://www.chameleonforums.com/sponsors/?tag=food Make an appointment with a good vet who has experience with chameleons for a wellness check and fecal. Parasites can cause so many serious problems. If you need help finding a vet near you, we can probably help. Just ask.
  • Do post pics of your girl, her back heels and enclosure. I won’t be around until later tonight, but there’s many others who can/will be happy to help you further. I’m very glad that you’ve made your way here. :)
Click to expand...
I will be purchasing another cage as soon as I get this one stable enough. Once I put together everything i'll need into a list I'll buy it all and work on the permanent cage. She's not getting the 90, that's just the max temp inside the cage (It's too close to the light for her to reach though) The night temps have been going down recently due to winter, lowest one has been 57.8, I am a little concered that they will drop even further, any suggestions on keeping temps up in the cage during night? Temps are usually 55-60 at night though. I have heard pothos Is a great plant, I'm a bit worried that the size of the plant will either be too large for the cage or too small for use. Yes I am aware that she will lay eggs. I bought her from a CountryMax, she had a nicely sized enclosure with good foilage though it was low to the ground. I will post some pics of her as soon as I can (As long as I don't forget again)
 
If the night temps drop below 55, you can use a ceramic heat emitter. I would get a low wattage one so that she’ll still have a nice cool night, just not icy cold.
 
WarBritain said:
I filled this out too to better help. I understand the black is stress and I don't blame her I mean she was waking up to a massive predator poking her And misting her cage, I'm more worried about her lethargic behaviors such as the eyes closed. She only turns green when it's time for bed too other than that she's either a very sandy color with black stripes when in the light and a mix of green and sandy colors when not.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Veiled Chameleon, Female, about 5 months old. A week and a half.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I've handled her twice.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Crickets, about 3-6 a day. I feed her first thing in the morning around 6:35. With fruits such as blueberries, apples, blackberries and vegatables such as caarrots, and lettuce.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Repticalcium without D3 and Reptavite with D3. I dust 2/3 of the crickets I feed her.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I mist and use a dripper. I mist her twice a day for 2-4 minutes with a hand mister and I use a dripper. I have seen her drinking but not in the last three days.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The First two days I got her the droppings were very slimy and greenish/yellowish, after that they were hard and brown. She has not been tested in my care and I do not know if she has been previously tested.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. None

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? I have a Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Medium size which is 16 x 16 x 30-inches.

    ​

  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I have the ZooMed Tropical UVB & Heat Lighting Kit. This contains a Zoo Med;s Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb with I turn on 30 minutes after my morning misting and i leave it on until I turn it off which is around 7:30 - 8:15 and I do not turn it on untill the next morning. I also have a ReptiSun 5.0 Mini Compact Fluorescent which I turn on at the same time as the Daylight Bulb and I leave on untill around 8:45.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? The temp range I have created is 60-90 with her basking spot being around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The lowest overnight temp I have had is 59 which occured a day after I got her. I measure these temps with multiple Zoo Med digital thermometers.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I am not sure of my humidity levels because I don't have an way to measure them yet. I try to maintain humidty levels with the misting and dripper.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I am using artifical plants.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • This is the general layout of my room with the smaller beige rectangle being my bathroom and the larger beige square being my actual bedroom. Her cage is located on a little desk that resides in a small area of my room that has a cutout. I will show actual pictures if required. She is in the dark pink rectangle. She is surrounded by two walls on her left and back side. There is one air vent inside my room on the left wall near the top left corner of the large beige square, there are no fans and it is a medium traffic area but my door is always closed. The top of the cage is about 6 ft, 6in. Off the ground View attachment 349119
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Rochester, New York.
Click to expand...
I’d say get her to a vet. In my reading and learning of Chams there isn’t a such thing as a wasted vet visit.
 
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