Chameleon eye closed

If you don’t mind me asking and it isn’t too personal, are you taking him to a different reptile veterinary clinic or the same one?.
 
Kodyf said:
Let’s hope not he doesn’t look to be in good shape. I’m glad you have an appointment set for him to be seen again. I’m worried about your dude! I’m wondering is he still able to climb around/move okay? He is nearing death if he can’t hold his weight anymore.
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He has been moving around even at the vet he was climbing everywhere but it is seem to be slowing down
 
Cosmo72 said:
I really just want to do what’s best for him

The bulb is a t5 and the feeders are 1/2 and smaller
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What is the strength of the bulb?
For such a tiny guy, I’d be giving 1/4” or even smaller feeders…like a newborn dubia size or small bsfl. Even a medium sized bsfl may be too big. Because he’s so very small, it makes things really hard. When I’ve had adult chameleons that don’t eat, I‘ve either shoved feeders in their mouth when they gaped at me or force fed liquid nutrition. He’s just too small for either. 😟
When you first got him, was your care different? Like did you not have linear uvb or use supplements correctly? Anything like that?
 
MissSkittles said:
What is the strength of the bulb?
For such a tiny guy, I’d be giving 1/4” or even smaller feeders…like a newborn dubia size or small bsfl. Even a medium sized bsfl may be too big. Because he’s so very small, it makes things really hard. When I’ve had adult chameleons that don’t eat, I‘ve either shoved feeders in their mouth when they gaped at me or force fed liquid nutrition. He’s just too small for either. 😟
When you first got him, was your care different? Like did you not have linear uvb or use supplements correctly? Anything like that?
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When I got him I actually got everything set up before I got him and had the lights and everything set up and went thru a few misting cycles for the humidity so everything was the same.and the bulb is t5ho 24 watt 22 inch.The only thing is I shoulda have got him checked when I got him I didn’t realize that was a necessity
 
Petco isn’t known for properly keeping their animals or selling healthy ones. It’s possible that baby Cosmo has a nasty parasite. Even something as relatively minor like pinworms could overtake him. I don’t even know all else that he could have wrong as a result of his breeding and keeping from before you got him. I’m not so sure that anyone else would be able to do much more than what you’re doing. Besides not really knowing what exactly is wrong with him, the biggest problem is he’s just a little one. Maybe having a smaller space will help him find his food and eat. I don’t really know. I’m so sorry that all of this is happening to the both of you. Sending good juju and healing prayers for Cosmo and you. Maybe another member will have better answers for you than I do. @kinyonga may have some good advice.
 
I’m just glad you’ve got him scheduled to be seen you can get real professional answers from someone who can actually do the tests needed those are the answers that are needed now. The advice you’re being offered here are educated guesses that could maybe help him, could maybe not, could maybe stress him more and knock down his immune system even more, and that is why our advice means nearly nothing at this point his condition is out of anyone’s hands here. No one on this forum will be able to run the typical diagnostics needed for him because none of here on this forum physically have him here with the equipment needed to get the correct info a vet has to make that decision on why his condition is this way. I love that everyone has chimed in here to help and I think everyone has given great ideas to help but I really just don’t think he’s going to improve from anything that has been offered by anyone in this thread. I doubt he will voluntarily eat from the way his condition looks and I think he’s hanging on by a thread until you get him to the vet Monday because something is deeply wrong with him. Since experienced members have recommended you not to force feed him you can’t do that for him they say sadly.. so that means he will most likely starve the next few days no matter what you do to try to get him to voluntarily eat. Since you say his energy is declining it makes me think his system is starting to shut down these are signs of nearing death, let’s hope he has enough in him to his appointment Monday my family is praying for you and your Cham.
 
Kodyf said:
I’m just glad you’ve got him scheduled to be seen you can get real professional answers from someone who can actually do the tests needed those are the answers that are needed now. The advice you’re being offered here are educated guesses that could maybe help him, could maybe not, could maybe stress him more and knock down his immune system even more, and that is why our advice means nearly nothing at this point his condition is out of anyone’s hands here. No one on this forum will be able to run the typical diagnostics needed for him because none of here on this forum physically have him here with the equipment needed to get the correct info a vet has to make that decision on why his condition is this way. I love that everyone has chimed in here to help and I think everyone has given great ideas to help but I really just don’t think he’s going to improve from anything that has been offered by anyone in this thread. I doubt he will voluntarily eat from the way his condition looks and I think he’s hanging on by a thread until you get him to the vet Monday because something is deeply wrong with him. Since experienced members have recommended you not to force feed him you can’t do that for him they say sadly.. so that means he will most likely starve the next few days no matter what you do to try to get him to voluntarily eat. Since you say his energy is declining it makes me think his system is starting to shut down these are signs of nearing death, let’s hope he has enough in him to his appointment Monday my family is praying for you and your Cham.
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Thank you very much and thank you to everyone helping I will do my best to keep updating it means so much to me that everyone here tried to help
 
MissSkittles said:
Petco isn’t known for properly keeping their animals or selling healthy ones. It’s possible that baby Cosmo has a nasty parasite. Even something as relatively minor like pinworms could overtake him. I don’t even know all else that he could have wrong as a result of his breeding and keeping from before you got him. I’m not so sure that anyone else would be able to do much more than what you’re doing. Besides not really knowing what exactly is wrong with him, the biggest problem is he’s just a little one. Maybe having a smaller space will help him find his food and eat. I don’t really know. I’m so sorry that all of this is happening to the both of you. Sending good juju and healing prayers for Cosmo and you. Maybe another member will have better answers for you than I do. @kinyonga may have some good advice.
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Thank you so much
 
See my feedback in red bold.

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? 3 months make it has been in my care for around a month Was he eating when you got him? How long has it been since he stopped eating and started closing his eyes?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I haven’t handled him
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? I feed dubia and black soldier fly larvae I put around 15 of each in the dishes I gutload with mango carrot and collared greens I put the food in the morning. So petco babies are never fed either of these. Have you tried 1/4 inch crickets for him? This is what they are raised on and know to be food. See gutload sheet to expand your gutload.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I am using Pangea cal without d3 and reptivite with d3 I’m using the one without everyday and the one with my plan was 1-2 a month.. Is the pangea cal flavored? IF so you need regular calcium without d3 and not flavor additives. Reptivite with d3 would be used every other week at one feeding.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Manual misting I often mist for two minutes before lights on and after but I have started misting for 3 minutes and I have a dripper throughout the day.. Has he been drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The color is mostly white and he has not been tested for parasites... A fecal test would be important to rule out parasite load. If you can get a fresh fecal.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. He was at petco and the enclosure there was terrible and had a water dish and loose crickets... Sometimes they can come to you with an already reduced immune system.
    • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Screen reptibreeze XL 2x2x4
    • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? 50 w Pangea halogen heat bulb What is your daily lighting schedule? Turns on at8 am and off at 8 pm. For the T5ho and the 5.0 uvb... Tell me the measured distance from the screen where the fixture sits and the branches below. This should not be farther than 8-9 inches away from the branches below. This puts them in the correct UVI level.
    • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? The cage is 72-69 the basking spot is 82 Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? I have a temperature and humidity gauge
    • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?my humidity is around 40-50 I have a humidity gauge and I’m using dropper and misting
    • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Yes pothos and other kinds
    • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? It’s the tallest thing in my room by a window but the window is sealed off. Make sure there are no drafts of cold air coming from the window.
    • Location - Where are you geographically located? New Jersey
  • Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. He is not eating


I want you to go to the petstore and get the smallest crickets they have no larger than 1/4 inch. You are going to dust those with plain calcium without D3. If you do not have plain unflavored you want to buy that as well. Load the feeder cup with 15 of these... If he is not going for them. Try putting one near him on a branch. See if he will take it. It may take quite a few times trying if his body is shutting down.

Are you seeing anything else... pointing the nose up to the air or gasping?
 
Beman said:
See my feedback in red bold.

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? 3 months make it has been in my care for around a month Was he eating when you got him? How long has it been since he stopped eating and started closing his eyes?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I haven’t handled him
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? I feed dubia and black soldier fly larvae I put around 15 of each in the dishes I gutload with mango carrot and collared greens I put the food in the morning. So petco babies are never fed either of these. Have you tried 1/4 inch crickets for him? This is what they are raised on and know to be food. See gutload sheet to expand your gutload.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I am using Pangea cal without d3 and reptivite with d3 I’m using the one without everyday and the one with my plan was 1-2 a month.. Is the pangea cal flavored? IF so you need regular calcium without d3 and not flavor additives. Reptivite with d3 would be used every other week at one feeding.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Manual misting I often mist for two minutes before lights on and after but I have started misting for 3 minutes and I have a dripper throughout the day.. Has he been drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The color is mostly white and he has not been tested for parasites... A fecal test would be important to rule out parasite load. If you can get a fresh fecal.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. He was at petco and the enclosure there was terrible and had a water dish and loose crickets... Sometimes they can come to you with an already reduced immune system.
    • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Screen reptibreeze XL 2x2x4
    • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? 50 w Pangea halogen heat bulb What is your daily lighting schedule? Turns on at8 am and off at 8 pm. For the T5ho and the 5.0 uvb... Tell me the measured distance from the screen where the fixture sits and the branches below. This should not be farther than 8-9 inches away from the branches below. This puts them in the correct UVI level.
    • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? The cage is 72-69 the basking spot is 82 Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? I have a temperature and humidity gauge
    • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?my humidity is around 40-50 I have a humidity gauge and I’m using dropper and misting
    • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Yes pothos and other kinds
    • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? It’s the tallest thing in my room by a window but the window is sealed off. Make sure there are no drafts of cold air coming from the window.
    • Location - Where are you geographically located? New Jersey
  • Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. He is not eating


I want you to go to the petstore and get the smallest crickets they have no larger than 1/4 inch. You are going to dust those with plain calcium without D3. If you do not have plain unflavored you want to buy that as well. Load the feeder cup with 15 of these... If he is not going for them. Try putting one near him on a branch. See if he will take it. It may take quite a few times trying if his body is shutting down.

Are you seeing anything else... pointing the nose up to the air or gasping?
Click to expand...
He was eating when I got him he stopped eating around 1 week and a half ago and he was closing his eyes three weeks ago
I have not tried the crickets. My Pangea cal is not flavored. The measured distance for the uvb bulb is about 10 inches. And he was drinking up until yesterday. He wasn’t pointing his nose up or gasping.
 
jannb said:
I’ve had babies that had eye problems with the UV light being to close to the cage or baby bin especially if it’s a new bulb. Try raising the light way up off the cage. I would recommend putting him in a baby bin until his health improves. Here’s some pictures of my bins and lights. BTW I use a 5.0 on babies.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/baby-enclosures.182279/#post-1661743
Click to expand...
This baby is too far away from the UVB as is. And is not getting the correct UVI levels. If he lifts it even farther this baby will further decline.
 
Cosmo72 said:
He was eating when I got him he stopped eating around 1 week and a half ago and he was closing his eyes three weeks ago
I have not tried the crickets. My Pangea cal is not flavored. The measured distance for the uvb bulb is about 10 inches. And he was drinking up until yesterday. He wasn’t pointing his nose up or gasping.
Click to expand...
So do what I recommended for the feeders. I think this baby has something more going on with it and that is why it is shutting down. The fact that it started closing eyes 3 weeks ago and then stopped eating a week ago means it is shutting down. Could be it has a parasite issue causing the decline and shut down. Could be something more. Right now the UVB is too far away at 10 inches but it would still be getting lower UVI levels at that distance. Just not what is recommended. Even with the farther distance this would not cause a shut down like this. This baby is dying. I hate having to tell people this but I just want you to know so it is not a shock. You could try moving it into a plastic tote and then lay the UVB across the top. Put some branches in so they are only like 2 inches off the bottom of the bin and live pothos. You would not add a heat lamp directly to this bin. If you need to warm up ambient temps you would increase your heat in your house so it is more like 73-74 during the day.
 
Beman said:
So do what I recommended for the feeders. I think this baby has something more going on with it and that is why it is shutting down. The fact that it started closing eyes 3 weeks ago and then stopped eating a week ago means it is shutting down. Could be it has a parasite issue causing the decline and shut down. Could be something more. Right now the UVB is too far away at 10 inches but it would still be getting lower UVI levels at that distance. Just not what is recommended. Even with the farther distance this would not cause a shut down like this. This baby is dying. I hate having to tell people this but I just want you to know so it is not a shock. You could try moving it into a plastic tote and then lay the UVB across the top. Put some branches in so they are only like 2 inches off the bottom of the bin and live pothos. You would not add a heat lamp directly to this bin. If you need to warm up ambient temps you would increase your heat in your house so it is more like 73-74 during the day.
Click to expand...
for the top of the plastic tote should i use the screen door or use the liid of the tote itself with holes in it? also i got the feeders set up becuase yesterday someone reccomeneded crickets.
 
Cosmo72 said:
for the top of the plastic tote should i use the screen door or use the liid of the tote itself with holes in it? also i got the feeders set up becuase yesterday someone reccomeneded crickets.
Click to expand...
What are the dimensions of your tote? How tall is it from bottom to top?
 
Cosmo72 said:
10 1/2 inc tall 15 in long and 1 foot wide
Click to expand...
Ok so set the fixture directly on top running across the middle of the tote. Branches sitting no higher than 2 inches off the bottom. Then put in a small pothos plant. Make sure it is not a tall one. If needed you can cut some long vines from one and then just wrap the end in a papertowel soaked in water. This keeps the baby low in the bin and prevents it from being able to climb out or fall and hurt itself.
 
Cosmo72 said:
for the top of the plastic tote should i use the screen door or use the liid of the tote itself with holes in it? also i got the feeders set up becuase yesterday someone reccomeneded crickets.
Click to expand...
I would use the screen door from the ReptiBreeze for the better ventilation and safety of putting lights on it.
 
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