My panther Chameleon (Blaize) is about 3 years and 5 months old. I haven't had any problems in the past with his eyes but for around 2 days now he had his right eye closed. It didn't look swollen at all just like he was sleeping, however his left eye was still open and functioning. I've read up about how this could be a symptom of lack of Vitamin A. So I gut loaded his food with vegetables that supply that (like sweet potatoes and carrots) as well as others. I also dusted Nutrobol on the insects when feeding it to him, as it has vitamin A also in it. I was just wondering how long I should feed him and help him at home before going to see a vet. I would have done it sooner but their isn't any close by and I wouldn't want to cause stress to him for something small. Other than his eye closed he is moving around coming out drinking and eating regularly. I was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this?
Chameleon eye closed
- Thread starter heatherdh
- Start date
There are two forms of vitamin A. I can’t remember which form Nutrobol has in it. Can you look on the container or post a photo of the ingredients on the container please?
There is prOformed and prEformed vitamin A…prEformed is from animal sources (look for words like acetate, retinol, retinal) and prOformed is from veggie/greens sources (look for beta carotene or other carotenoids). However, it’s thought that chameleons either can’t convert the prOformed or can’t convert it well enough, so they need some prEformed vitamin A to be able to use it.
One more complication…prOformed is converted by the body and the body only converts what‘s needed…but as I said…they might not be able to convert it. It won’t build up in the body if they can convert it…so you don’t have to worry about overdoing the prOformed beta carotene type.
Now…prEformed is already to go (they don’t have to convert it), so it can build up in the body and lead to overdose issues…so we only use a little of it twice a month…in the vitamin powder we dust with.
Can you also post photos of the chameleon showing both eyes so we can compare them?
There is prOformed and prEformed vitamin A…prEformed is from animal sources (look for words like acetate, retinol, retinal) and prOformed is from veggie/greens sources (look for beta carotene or other carotenoids). However, it’s thought that chameleons either can’t convert the prOformed or can’t convert it well enough, so they need some prEformed vitamin A to be able to use it.
One more complication…prOformed is converted by the body and the body only converts what‘s needed…but as I said…they might not be able to convert it. It won’t build up in the body if they can convert it…so you don’t have to worry about overdoing the prOformed beta carotene type.
Now…prEformed is already to go (they don’t have to convert it), so it can build up in the body and lead to overdose issues…so we only use a little of it twice a month…in the vitamin powder we dust with.
Can you also post photos of the chameleon showing both eyes so we can compare them?
How often are you using the Nutrobal multi? This one actually has very high levels of D3 and A in it. D3 and A can be toxic if given too frequently. Your supplement is one I actually would not use for a chameleon due to the higher levels of D3 and A in it. Can you post pics of the chameleon and the entire enclosure including the lighting on top?
@kinyonga it is preformed A.
@kinyonga it is preformed A.
of course! excuse his puffing up he doesn't like the camera. generally i only use the nutrobol every few feedings but i wasn’t sure if i should have given him more to help. also we are getting more plants for him asap the others died and the light is a t8 reptile system ubi 2.0 in zone 2 and 6% if that helps!
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CalamityCrow
Avid Member
It's hard to tell from the picture, but is that heat lamp a red light? And do you leave it on at night?
yes it is a red lamp and I do leave it on however I make sure i turn it down at night to give him a slightly cooler night.
CalamityCrow
Avid Member
So I would suggest changing away from the red lamp. Colored lights, ESPECIALLY red ones, aren't good for chameleons' sensitive eyes in the day time, and they need absolute darkness at night. Their temps should drop into the 60s (~15-19C) at night as well. A light on all the time could certainly cause some eye issues.
A lot of folks here have shifted to using a 60W incandescent light. It gives off a natural light color and since it's not an LED it gives off a good amount of heat as well.
Do you have digital temperature or humidity readers in the enclosure?
Okay I'll definitely look into that, however in the 2 and a bit years I've had him there didn't seem to be an issue caused by this just wondering if it takes a long time to have an effect? Plus the lamp doesn't stay on all night as it keeps the temp and switches on and of with only dull glows rarely throughout the night. Normally I would have a reader but he (being the cheeky chameleon he is) tends to pull it off the wall and it gets damaged, or damaged by the sprayer. I will get a new one soon.
CalamityCrow
Avid Member
It can take a while to have an effect. The issue with chameleons, and reptiles in general, is they tend to hide their ailments until the very last possible minute. It's a survival mechanism built into all of them. His one eye closed could mean a myriad of things, from vitamin overdose (or deficiency), the light bothering it, something in his eye, perhaps an infection in the eye. It's really hard to tell what causes some of the issues they have.
This forum is awesome because we can do a husbandry review for folks and the people who have good experience can help you to eliminate the easily fixed things that may cause a chameleon to have issues. Of course, a vet visit to an experienced chameleon vet is always recommended here, since none of us are vets. But among the most active in this forum, Miss Skittles, Beman, Kinyonga, a few others, there's likely over a century of keeper knowledge combined. They're definitely worth listening to.
And please bear in mind too, no one's judging or anything like that - the crazy amount of bad information out there for chams is very difficult to combat, and it's no one's fault that they get that bad info and act on it. What we endeavor to do here is clarify what the most up to date husbandry for chameleons is and encourage keepers to adjust their efforts so that our lovely little ones can have the best life possible. That's certainly why you're here to inquire about your guy's eye! You care for him and want the best for him. So do we.
As far as the light goes, chams have incredibly sensitive eyes - it's their bread and butter for survival. So even a dim light during the night can interrupt their sleep. If that's constantly interrupted, that can slowly lead to being less healthy and more stressed, which can make them susceptible to other health issues. I'm by no means saying the light is the cause of his eye problem, but I'm pretty confident in saying that it hasn't done anything to help that situation get better.
It's possible he has something stuck in it as well. If the heat in his cage isn't too high and it's not too humid with that heat (which is why a hygrometer and thermometer are SO important), a longer misting session might not be a bad idea either - perhaps if there IS something stuck there, he can get it out on his own.
I think it would be advantageous for you to fill out a husbandry form and one of our forum experts can review it for Blaize (GREAT name for your cham btw - he's lovely and that name suits him very well). That way we can rule out some of the common causes of his eye issues, and hopefully help you get him back into tip-top shape! If you want to, feel free to copy/paste the below into a reply and fill it out, and one of us can look it over for you.
And finally, if you've not yet been to this site, this is a WONDERFUL place to start to make sure you stay on top of the most recent husbandry guidance from an expert who has been keeping Chams for longer than I've been alive, I'm pretty sure: https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
I know I've dropped a ton on you - my apologies for being wordy. But I want to help! So please let me know if you have any questions.
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
- Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
- Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
- Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
- Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
- History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
- Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
- Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
- Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
- Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
- Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
- Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
--------------
Please Note:
- The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
- Photos can be very helpful. Please include photos of your chameleon and the enclosure, top to bottom, including the light fixtures.
Chameleon Info:It can take a while to have an effect. The issue with chameleons, and reptiles in general, is they tend to hide their ailments until the very last possible minute. It's a survival mechanism built into all of them. His one eye closed could mean a myriad of things, from vitamin overdose (or deficiency), the light bothering it, something in his eye, perhaps an infection in the eye. It's really hard to tell what causes some of the issues they have.
This forum is awesome because we can do a husbandry review for folks and the people who have good experience can help you to eliminate the easily fixed things that may cause a chameleon to have issues. Of course, a vet visit to an experienced chameleon vet is always recommended here, since none of us are vets. But among the most active in this forum, Miss Skittles, Beman, Kinyonga, a few others, there's likely over a century of keeper knowledge combined. They're definitely worth listening to.
And please bear in mind too, no one's judging or anything like that - the crazy amount of bad information out there for chams is very difficult to combat, and it's no one's fault that they get that bad info and act on it. What we endeavor to do here is clarify what the most up to date husbandry for chameleons is and encourage keepers to adjust their efforts so that our lovely little ones can have the best life possible. That's certainly why you're here to inquire about your guy's eye! You care for him and want the best for him. So do we.
As far as the light goes, chams have incredibly sensitive eyes - it's their bread and butter for survival. So even a dim light during the night can interrupt their sleep. If that's constantly interrupted, that can slowly lead to being less healthy and more stressed, which can make them susceptible to other health issues. I'm by no means saying the light is the cause of his eye problem, but I'm pretty confident in saying that it hasn't done anything to help that situation get better.
It's possible he has something stuck in it as well. If the heat in his cage isn't too high and it's not too humid with that heat (which is why a hygrometer and thermometer are SO important), a longer misting session might not be a bad idea either - perhaps if there IS something stuck there, he can get it out on his own.
I think it would be advantageous for you to fill out a husbandry form and one of our forum experts can review it for Blaize (GREAT name for your cham btw - he's lovely and that name suits him very well). That way we can rule out some of the common causes of his eye issues, and hopefully help you get him back into tip-top shape! If you want to, feel free to copy/paste the below into a reply and fill it out, and one of us can look it over for you.
And finally, if you've not yet been to this site, this is a WONDERFUL place to start to make sure you stay on top of the most recent husbandry guidance from an expert who has been keeping Chams for longer than I've been alive, I'm pretty sure: https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
I know I've dropped a ton on you - my apologies for being wordy. But I want to help! So please let me know if you have any questions.
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
- Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
- Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
- Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
- Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
- History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
- Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
- Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
- Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
- Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
- Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
- Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
--------------
Please Note:
- The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
- Photos can be very helpful. Please include photos of your chameleon and the enclosure, top to bottom, including the light fixtures.
Chameleon - Panther Chameleon , male, and 3 years and 5 months ish, must be around 2 years and 6 months I've had him.
Handling - I generally try take him out as often as I can but he doesn't always come out so he comes out around 2 times a week maybe 2 times in 2 weeks, it really depends on how adventurous he's feeling.
Feeding - I feed him locusts mainly, however I do feed him morioworms (I know they aren't the best and are hard to digest however they are like a treat for him every once in a while often I try to avoid giving him too many and too often), Ive tried him on crickets but he wasn't crazy about them - and to be honest neither was I- I have tried him on silkworms as another treat however it is hard to get my hands on them in any shops. I feed him around 5-8 locusts, moriosworms generally 2 maybe 3. I feed him every 2 days I find this works for him as I do monitor his weight and he seems healthy, he isn't gaining or loosing any weight, I give them sweet potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, sweet peppers, cucumbers also some fruits like tomatoes, mango, blueberries, grapes, apples, strawberries.
Supplements - I use Calcium-dust by vetark. (I'll attach a picture) and I also use the nutrobal from vetark. Generally I use the Calci-dust almost every feeding, with the nutrobal I use like 1 every 2 weeks, I also sometimes just feed him his food without dusting but mainly I use the calci-dust.
Watering - I hand mist the cage often when ever I feel like its too dry. I use a water sprayer on regular timings it goes off every hour for around 20 seconds each time. However the sprayer gets turned off at night when he goes to sleep. I do sometimes see my chameleon drink, honestly recently he's come and almost asked to be sprayed on the mouth for water when I hand spray I didn't know whether to be concerned or not but he closes his mouth when he doesn't want anymore, tbh I think he's just become reliant on me as I saw other people having the same issue.
Fecal Description - His pee has been white maybe sometimes with slight orange tint to it but overall I'm quite happy about the size and colour of his pee. However every now and then his poo is a but runny, it has good colour and good size, He has never been tested for parasites, I need to but the vets are far away.
History - I don't think there's any history
Cage Info:
Cage Type - My cage is a wooden cage but has glass doors, It has plenty of ventilation in the back and front, the size is 57.5cmX49cmX91.5cm I'm going to build him a larger one for him as he is outgrowing his cage a bit.
Lighting - Im using the "Reptile System T8 Zone 2 6% UVI 2.0 15W" I did use the red lamp "Arcadia 100W, Infrared solar basking E27" This is not our usual one normally it was the "Habistat red night spotlamp150w ES" I have now replaced it with a bulb that is a white/yellow . this originally was what we where planning to use (I've forgotten what brand and type it is but ill try to fund out asap and even find a better one.) we changed to the red lamp since the reptile person recomended when we got him, it seemed okay to trust his opinion, his light turns on at 6:30 am- 6:30 pm, since it gets cold in my house we keep the heat lamp on at a lower temp than in the day. it doesn't emit much light to my eye but of course their eyes are different
Temperature - Near the basking light its around 80-85 F (sometimes it may reach 90 on hot days but if it does I make sure to turn it down and get it colder asap.) At night its around 70-74F but now I realise I need to lower that temp at night. We generally have a thermometer in there, but we also have a wire that measures the temp under the heat bulb and controls the heat emitted by the temp its at.
Humidity - Humidity generally is varied from 60-85% I mist the cage often and the sprayers that go off also increase the humidity. Normally the thermometer I get also has a humidity meter under it also to monitor both.
Plants - Yes I do use live plants I've forgotten specifically which however I do thorough research to check its safe
Placement - Currently its located in my living room. He's ontop a cabinet to allow him a higher placement and is quite happy there as he gets to see the everything,
Location - Im located in the UK.
Current Problem - His left eye facing him/Right eye from his perspective is closed during the day and Im not sure is something is stuck in it or a lack of vitamin A and just wondering how long I should help him at home before a get him to the vet as I don't want to cause stress to him if its a minor issue.
Gloriawood
Chameleon Enthusiast
I’ll let the others handle the advice, I just wanted to say welcome and that Blaize is just gorgeous! 
Thank you <3I’ll let the others handle the advice, I just wanted to say welcome and that Blaize is just gorgeous!
See by feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have. I may have a few additional as well.
Chameleon Info:
Chameleon - Panther Chameleon , male, and 3 years and 5 months ish, must be around 2 years and 6 months I've had him.
Handling - I generally try take him out as often as I can but he doesn't always come out so he comes out around 2 times a week maybe 2 times in 2 weeks, it really depends on how adventurous he's feeling.
Feeding - I feed him locusts mainly, however I do feed him morioworms (I know they aren't the best and are hard to digest however they are like a treat for him every once in a while often I try to avoid giving him too many and too often), Ive tried him on crickets but he wasn't crazy about them - and to be honest neither was I- I have tried him on silkworms as another treat however it is hard to get my hands on them in any shops. I feed him around 5-8 locusts, moriosworms generally 2 maybe 3. I feed him every 2 days I find this works for him as I do monitor his weight and he seems healthy, he isn't gaining or loosing any weight, I give them sweet potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, sweet peppers, cucumbers also some fruits like tomatoes, mango, blueberries, grapes, apples, strawberries. This is all good.
Supplements - I use Calcium-dust by vetark. (I'll attach a picture) and I also use the nutrobal from vetark. Generally I use the Calci-dust almost every feeding, with the nutrobal I use like 1 every 2 weeks, I also sometimes just feed him his food without dusting but mainly I use the calci-dust. So for your supplements you would use the calci dust at every feeding and then the Nutrobal only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It is important to use the supplements so that they balance the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the feeder. Now with the nutrobal it has very high levels of A and D3 so only use this 2 times a month. Overdoing it can cause issues as well with fat soluble vitamins like these because they store in the tissues.
Watering - I hand mist the cage often when ever I feel like its too dry. I use a water sprayer on regular timings it goes off every hour for around 20 seconds each time. However the sprayer gets turned off at night when he goes to sleep. I do sometimes see my chameleon drink, honestly recently he's come and almost asked to be sprayed on the mouth for water when I hand spray I didn't know whether to be concerned or not but he closes his mouth when he doesn't want anymore, tbh I think he's just become reliant on me as I saw other people having the same issue. So this is a sign that he is not getting enough to drink. You need to switch up your watering schedule. They really need a minimum of 2 minutes to fully trigger a drinking response. I would have it mist in the morning when it is cooler and then in the late afternoon running longer misting sessions. During the day the cage needs to dry out from misting. The longer misting sessions will also give him the opportunity to clean his eyes. He may be closing the one due to having something in it. You can also add a dripper to the cage during the day. Take a plastic cup poke a few tiny holes in the bottom. Put ice cubes in it and set on top of the cage. This will melt slowly and drip down onto the plants for him to drink.
Fecal Description - His pee has been white maybe sometimes with slight orange tint to it but overall I'm quite happy about the size and colour of his pee. However every now and then his poo is a but runny, it has good colour and good size, He has never been tested for parasites, I need to but the vets are far away. Fecal is always a good idea to ensure there is not a parasite issue.
History - I don't think there's any history
Cage Info:
Cage Type - My cage is a wooden cage but has glass doors, It has plenty of ventilation in the back and front, the size is 57.5cmX49cmX91.5cm I'm going to build him a larger one for him as he is outgrowing his cage a bit. If you rebuild the cage you want to have all lights on top of the cage. Having them inside poses a thermal burn risk.
Lighting - Im using the "Reptile System T8 Zone 2 6% UVI 2.0 15W" For your UVB are you using a solarmeter to determine the UVI? T8 fixtures do not put out the same UVI level that a T5HO will. So for a Panther your looking for a 3 UVI. A 2 UVI is better than nothing but 3 is considered optimal. I would recommend switching to a T5HO fixture and a 6% or 5.0 linear bulb. You want this fixture to run the width of the enclosure and sit on top of the screen. Then you would have an 8-9 inch distance to the branches directly below it to put the cham in a 3 UVI range. I did use the red lamp "Arcadia 100W, Infrared solar basking E27" This is not our usual one normally it was the "Habistat red night spotlamp150w ES" I have now replaced it with a bulb that is a white/yellow . this originally was what we where planning to use (I've forgotten what brand and type it is but ill try to fund out asap and even find a better one.) we changed to the red lamp since the reptile person recomended when we got him, it seemed okay to trust his opinion, his light turns on at 6:30 am- 6:30 pm, since it gets cold in my house we keep the heat lamp on at a lower temp than in the day. it doesn't emit much light to my eye but of course their eyes are different Yep no red bulbs at night or during the day.
Temperature - Near the basking light its around 80-85 F (sometimes it may reach 90 on hot days but if it does I make sure to turn it down and get it colder asap.) At night its around 70-74F but now I realise I need to lower that temp at night. We generally have a thermometer in there, but we also have a wire that measures the temp under the heat bulb and controls the heat emitted by the temp its at. So you really want temps to be able to drop at night down to 60 is perfectly fine for them. If for any reason you were to have to use heat at night you would use a CHE bulb but these have to be on top of the cage. These are high risk for thermal burns. Use a low watt one because they produce a lot of heat. These should also be on a thermostat to control how hot it gets at night. You still want it cool. But if your house gets below 50 then you have to add heat. Too cold is not good either.
Humidity - Humidity generally is varied from 60-85% I mist the cage often and the sprayers that go off also increase the humidity. Normally the thermometer I get also has a humidity meter under it also to monitor both. So your looking for 50-60% during the day for him. and then at night it can be high but it has to be cool as well or they can develop a respiratory infection.
Plants - Yes I do use live plants I've forgotten specifically which however I do thorough research to check its safe
Placement - Currently its located in my living room. He's ontop a cabinet to allow him a higher placement and is quite happy there as he gets to see the everything,
Location - Im located in the UK.
Current Problem - His left eye facing him/Right eye from his perspective is closed during the day and Im not sure is something is stuck in it or a lack of vitamin A and just wondering how long I should help him at home before a get him to the vet as I don't want to cause stress to him if its a minor issue.
It would not be due to lack of vitamin A. Your nutrobal has high levels of A. Either he has something in the eye or his UVB is not producing as it should be. Lower UVI can cause them to start closing eyes. Could also be a sign of infection but since it is just one eye I am leaning away from this right now. I would increase the misting times so he has an opportunity to clean the eye. I would also look at upgrading the UVB> Unless you have a solarmeter and know exactly what the UVI level is at his back when he basks.
Chameleon Info:
Chameleon - Panther Chameleon , male, and 3 years and 5 months ish, must be around 2 years and 6 months I've had him.
Handling - I generally try take him out as often as I can but he doesn't always come out so he comes out around 2 times a week maybe 2 times in 2 weeks, it really depends on how adventurous he's feeling.
Feeding - I feed him locusts mainly, however I do feed him morioworms (I know they aren't the best and are hard to digest however they are like a treat for him every once in a while often I try to avoid giving him too many and too often), Ive tried him on crickets but he wasn't crazy about them - and to be honest neither was I- I have tried him on silkworms as another treat however it is hard to get my hands on them in any shops. I feed him around 5-8 locusts, moriosworms generally 2 maybe 3. I feed him every 2 days I find this works for him as I do monitor his weight and he seems healthy, he isn't gaining or loosing any weight, I give them sweet potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, sweet peppers, cucumbers also some fruits like tomatoes, mango, blueberries, grapes, apples, strawberries. This is all good.
Supplements - I use Calcium-dust by vetark. (I'll attach a picture) and I also use the nutrobal from vetark. Generally I use the Calci-dust almost every feeding, with the nutrobal I use like 1 every 2 weeks, I also sometimes just feed him his food without dusting but mainly I use the calci-dust. So for your supplements you would use the calci dust at every feeding and then the Nutrobal only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It is important to use the supplements so that they balance the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the feeder. Now with the nutrobal it has very high levels of A and D3 so only use this 2 times a month. Overdoing it can cause issues as well with fat soluble vitamins like these because they store in the tissues.
Watering - I hand mist the cage often when ever I feel like its too dry. I use a water sprayer on regular timings it goes off every hour for around 20 seconds each time. However the sprayer gets turned off at night when he goes to sleep. I do sometimes see my chameleon drink, honestly recently he's come and almost asked to be sprayed on the mouth for water when I hand spray I didn't know whether to be concerned or not but he closes his mouth when he doesn't want anymore, tbh I think he's just become reliant on me as I saw other people having the same issue. So this is a sign that he is not getting enough to drink. You need to switch up your watering schedule. They really need a minimum of 2 minutes to fully trigger a drinking response. I would have it mist in the morning when it is cooler and then in the late afternoon running longer misting sessions. During the day the cage needs to dry out from misting. The longer misting sessions will also give him the opportunity to clean his eyes. He may be closing the one due to having something in it. You can also add a dripper to the cage during the day. Take a plastic cup poke a few tiny holes in the bottom. Put ice cubes in it and set on top of the cage. This will melt slowly and drip down onto the plants for him to drink.
Fecal Description - His pee has been white maybe sometimes with slight orange tint to it but overall I'm quite happy about the size and colour of his pee. However every now and then his poo is a but runny, it has good colour and good size, He has never been tested for parasites, I need to but the vets are far away. Fecal is always a good idea to ensure there is not a parasite issue.
History - I don't think there's any history
Cage Info:
Cage Type - My cage is a wooden cage but has glass doors, It has plenty of ventilation in the back and front, the size is 57.5cmX49cmX91.5cm I'm going to build him a larger one for him as he is outgrowing his cage a bit. If you rebuild the cage you want to have all lights on top of the cage. Having them inside poses a thermal burn risk.
Lighting - Im using the "Reptile System T8 Zone 2 6% UVI 2.0 15W" For your UVB are you using a solarmeter to determine the UVI? T8 fixtures do not put out the same UVI level that a T5HO will. So for a Panther your looking for a 3 UVI. A 2 UVI is better than nothing but 3 is considered optimal. I would recommend switching to a T5HO fixture and a 6% or 5.0 linear bulb. You want this fixture to run the width of the enclosure and sit on top of the screen. Then you would have an 8-9 inch distance to the branches directly below it to put the cham in a 3 UVI range. I did use the red lamp "Arcadia 100W, Infrared solar basking E27" This is not our usual one normally it was the "Habistat red night spotlamp150w ES" I have now replaced it with a bulb that is a white/yellow . this originally was what we where planning to use (I've forgotten what brand and type it is but ill try to fund out asap and even find a better one.) we changed to the red lamp since the reptile person recomended when we got him, it seemed okay to trust his opinion, his light turns on at 6:30 am- 6:30 pm, since it gets cold in my house we keep the heat lamp on at a lower temp than in the day. it doesn't emit much light to my eye but of course their eyes are different Yep no red bulbs at night or during the day.
Temperature - Near the basking light its around 80-85 F (sometimes it may reach 90 on hot days but if it does I make sure to turn it down and get it colder asap.) At night its around 70-74F but now I realise I need to lower that temp at night. We generally have a thermometer in there, but we also have a wire that measures the temp under the heat bulb and controls the heat emitted by the temp its at. So you really want temps to be able to drop at night down to 60 is perfectly fine for them. If for any reason you were to have to use heat at night you would use a CHE bulb but these have to be on top of the cage. These are high risk for thermal burns. Use a low watt one because they produce a lot of heat. These should also be on a thermostat to control how hot it gets at night. You still want it cool. But if your house gets below 50 then you have to add heat. Too cold is not good either.
Humidity - Humidity generally is varied from 60-85% I mist the cage often and the sprayers that go off also increase the humidity. Normally the thermometer I get also has a humidity meter under it also to monitor both. So your looking for 50-60% during the day for him. and then at night it can be high but it has to be cool as well or they can develop a respiratory infection.
Plants - Yes I do use live plants I've forgotten specifically which however I do thorough research to check its safe
Placement - Currently its located in my living room. He's ontop a cabinet to allow him a higher placement and is quite happy there as he gets to see the everything,
Location - Im located in the UK.
Current Problem - His left eye facing him/Right eye from his perspective is closed during the day and Im not sure is something is stuck in it or a lack of vitamin A and just wondering how long I should help him at home before a get him to the vet as I don't want to cause stress to him if its a minor issue.
It would not be due to lack of vitamin A. Your nutrobal has high levels of A. Either he has something in the eye or his UVB is not producing as it should be. Lower UVI can cause them to start closing eyes. Could also be a sign of infection but since it is just one eye I am leaning away from this right now. I would increase the misting times so he has an opportunity to clean the eye. I would also look at upgrading the UVB> Unless you have a solarmeter and know exactly what the UVI level is at his back when he basks.
Thank you very much for replying I will start asap but the only problem is that his cage doesn't have a mesh screen on the top so I'm not sure if I can be able to put in these bulbs without him getting a burn. Im just wondering if I get the t5ho light and place it in would he be alright, until I'm able to get/ build him a new cage to sustain all these corrections. Thank you so much for this!!See by feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have. I may have a few additional as well.
Chameleon Info:
Chameleon - Panther Chameleon , male, and 3 years and 5 months ish, must be around 2 years and 6 months I've had him.
Handling - I generally try take him out as often as I can but he doesn't always come out so he comes out around 2 times a week maybe 2 times in 2 weeks, it really depends on how adventurous he's feeling.
Feeding - I feed him locusts mainly, however I do feed him morioworms (I know they aren't the best and are hard to digest however they are like a treat for him every once in a while often I try to avoid giving him too many and too often), Ive tried him on crickets but he wasn't crazy about them - and to be honest neither was I- I have tried him on silkworms as another treat however it is hard to get my hands on them in any shops. I feed him around 5-8 locusts, moriosworms generally 2 maybe 3. I feed him every 2 days I find this works for him as I do monitor his weight and he seems healthy, he isn't gaining or loosing any weight, I give them sweet potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, sweet peppers, cucumbers also some fruits like tomatoes, mango, blueberries, grapes, apples, strawberries. This is all good.
Supplements - I use Calcium-dust by vetark. (I'll attach a picture) and I also use the nutrobal from vetark. Generally I use the Calci-dust almost every feeding, with the nutrobal I use like 1 every 2 weeks, I also sometimes just feed him his food without dusting but mainly I use the calci-dust. So for your supplements you would use the calci dust at every feeding and then the Nutrobal only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It is important to use the supplements so that they balance the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the feeder. Now with the nutrobal it has very high levels of A and D3 so only use this 2 times a month. Overdoing it can cause issues as well with fat soluble vitamins like these because they store in the tissues.
Watering - I hand mist the cage often when ever I feel like its too dry. I use a water sprayer on regular timings it goes off every hour for around 20 seconds each time. However the sprayer gets turned off at night when he goes to sleep. I do sometimes see my chameleon drink, honestly recently he's come and almost asked to be sprayed on the mouth for water when I hand spray I didn't know whether to be concerned or not but he closes his mouth when he doesn't want anymore, tbh I think he's just become reliant on me as I saw other people having the same issue. So this is a sign that he is not getting enough to drink. You need to switch up your watering schedule. They really need a minimum of 2 minutes to fully trigger a drinking response. I would have it mist in the morning when it is cooler and then in the late afternoon running longer misting sessions. During the day the cage needs to dry out from misting. The longer misting sessions will also give him the opportunity to clean his eyes. He may be closing the one due to having something in it. You can also add a dripper to the cage during the day. Take a plastic cup poke a few tiny holes in the bottom. Put ice cubes in it and set on top of the cage. This will melt slowly and drip down onto the plants for him to drink.
Fecal Description - His pee has been white maybe sometimes with slight orange tint to it but overall I'm quite happy about the size and colour of his pee. However every now and then his poo is a but runny, it has good colour and good size, He has never been tested for parasites, I need to but the vets are far away. Fecal is always a good idea to ensure there is not a parasite issue.
History - I don't think there's any history
Cage Info:
Cage Type - My cage is a wooden cage but has glass doors, It has plenty of ventilation in the back and front, the size is 57.5cmX49cmX91.5cm I'm going to build him a larger one for him as he is outgrowing his cage a bit. If you rebuild the cage you want to have all lights on top of the cage. Having them inside poses a thermal burn risk.
Lighting - Im using the "Reptile System T8 Zone 2 6% UVI 2.0 15W" For your UVB are you using a solarmeter to determine the UVI? T8 fixtures do not put out the same UVI level that a T5HO will. So for a Panther your looking for a 3 UVI. A 2 UVI is better than nothing but 3 is considered optimal. I would recommend switching to a T5HO fixture and a 6% or 5.0 linear bulb. You want this fixture to run the width of the enclosure and sit on top of the screen. Then you would have an 8-9 inch distance to the branches directly below it to put the cham in a 3 UVI range. I did use the red lamp "Arcadia 100W, Infrared solar basking E27" This is not our usual one normally it was the "Habistat red night spotlamp150w ES" I have now replaced it with a bulb that is a white/yellow . this originally was what we where planning to use (I've forgotten what brand and type it is but ill try to fund out asap and even find a better one.) we changed to the red lamp since the reptile person recomended when we got him, it seemed okay to trust his opinion, his light turns on at 6:30 am- 6:30 pm, since it gets cold in my house we keep the heat lamp on at a lower temp than in the day. it doesn't emit much light to my eye but of course their eyes are different Yep no red bulbs at night or during the day.
Temperature - Near the basking light its around 80-85 F (sometimes it may reach 90 on hot days but if it does I make sure to turn it down and get it colder asap.) At night its around 70-74F but now I realise I need to lower that temp at night. We generally have a thermometer in there, but we also have a wire that measures the temp under the heat bulb and controls the heat emitted by the temp its at. So you really want temps to be able to drop at night down to 60 is perfectly fine for them. If for any reason you were to have to use heat at night you would use a CHE bulb but these have to be on top of the cage. These are high risk for thermal burns. Use a low watt one because they produce a lot of heat. These should also be on a thermostat to control how hot it gets at night. You still want it cool. But if your house gets below 50 then you have to add heat. Too cold is not good either.
Humidity - Humidity generally is varied from 60-85% I mist the cage often and the sprayers that go off also increase the humidity. Normally the thermometer I get also has a humidity meter under it also to monitor both. So your looking for 50-60% during the day for him. and then at night it can be high but it has to be cool as well or they can develop a respiratory infection.
Plants - Yes I do use live plants I've forgotten specifically which however I do thorough research to check its safe
Placement - Currently its located in my living room. He's ontop a cabinet to allow him a higher placement and is quite happy there as he gets to see the everything,
Location - Im located in the UK.
Current Problem - His left eye facing him/Right eye from his perspective is closed during the day and Im not sure is something is stuck in it or a lack of vitamin A and just wondering how long I should help him at home before a get him to the vet as I don't want to cause stress to him if its a minor issue.
It would not be due to lack of vitamin A. Your nutrobal has high levels of A. Either he has something in the eye or his UVB is not producing as it should be. Lower UVI can cause them to start closing eyes. Could also be a sign of infection but since it is just one eye I am leaning away from this right now. I would increase the misting times so he has an opportunity to clean the eye. I would also look at upgrading the UVB> Unless you have a solarmeter and know exactly what the UVI level is at his back when he basks.
Ok that explains the UVB being a T8. Do you have a solarmeter to check the UVI output of the bulb? When last did you replace this bulb?Thank you very much for replying I will start asap but the only problem is that his cage doesn't have a mesh screen on the top so I'm not sure if I can be able to put in these bulbs without him getting a burn. Im just wondering if I get the t5ho light and place it in would he be alright, until I'm able to get/ build him a new cage to sustain all these corrections. Thank you so much for this!!
I personally would not put a T5HO inside a chameleon cage just because you lose over a foot of the top portion of the enclosure.
Ideally with lighting it is always better to have lights outside the enclosure. Better to control everything and reduce thermal burn and overexposure risk. Also lights with moisture is a little on the worrisome side for me.
I have another question as Im based in the UK what cages would you recommend for keeping warmth in as I need a glass cage however would mesh on the top still be able to help the temp?See by feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have. I may have a few additional as well.
Chameleon Info:
Chameleon - Panther Chameleon , male, and 3 years and 5 months ish, must be around 2 years and 6 months I've had him.
Handling - I generally try take him out as often as I can but he doesn't always come out so he comes out around 2 times a week maybe 2 times in 2 weeks, it really depends on how adventurous he's feeling.
Feeding - I feed him locusts mainly, however I do feed him morioworms (I know they aren't the best and are hard to digest however they are like a treat for him every once in a while often I try to avoid giving him too many and too often), Ive tried him on crickets but he wasn't crazy about them - and to be honest neither was I- I have tried him on silkworms as another treat however it is hard to get my hands on them in any shops. I feed him around 5-8 locusts, moriosworms generally 2 maybe 3. I feed him every 2 days I find this works for him as I do monitor his weight and he seems healthy, he isn't gaining or loosing any weight, I give them sweet potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, sweet peppers, cucumbers also some fruits like tomatoes, mango, blueberries, grapes, apples, strawberries. This is all good.
Supplements - I use Calcium-dust by vetark. (I'll attach a picture) and I also use the nutrobal from vetark. Generally I use the Calci-dust almost every feeding, with the nutrobal I use like 1 every 2 weeks, I also sometimes just feed him his food without dusting but mainly I use the calci-dust. So for your supplements you would use the calci dust at every feeding and then the Nutrobal only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It is important to use the supplements so that they balance the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the feeder. Now with the nutrobal it has very high levels of A and D3 so only use this 2 times a month. Overdoing it can cause issues as well with fat soluble vitamins like these because they store in the tissues.
Watering - I hand mist the cage often when ever I feel like its too dry. I use a water sprayer on regular timings it goes off every hour for around 20 seconds each time. However the sprayer gets turned off at night when he goes to sleep. I do sometimes see my chameleon drink, honestly recently he's come and almost asked to be sprayed on the mouth for water when I hand spray I didn't know whether to be concerned or not but he closes his mouth when he doesn't want anymore, tbh I think he's just become reliant on me as I saw other people having the same issue. So this is a sign that he is not getting enough to drink. You need to switch up your watering schedule. They really need a minimum of 2 minutes to fully trigger a drinking response. I would have it mist in the morning when it is cooler and then in the late afternoon running longer misting sessions. During the day the cage needs to dry out from misting. The longer misting sessions will also give him the opportunity to clean his eyes. He may be closing the one due to having something in it. You can also add a dripper to the cage during the day. Take a plastic cup poke a few tiny holes in the bottom. Put ice cubes in it and set on top of the cage. This will melt slowly and drip down onto the plants for him to drink.
Fecal Description - His pee has been white maybe sometimes with slight orange tint to it but overall I'm quite happy about the size and colour of his pee. However every now and then his poo is a but runny, it has good colour and good size, He has never been tested for parasites, I need to but the vets are far away. Fecal is always a good idea to ensure there is not a parasite issue.
History - I don't think there's any history
Cage Info:
Cage Type - My cage is a wooden cage but has glass doors, It has plenty of ventilation in the back and front, the size is 57.5cmX49cmX91.5cm I'm going to build him a larger one for him as he is outgrowing his cage a bit. If you rebuild the cage you want to have all lights on top of the cage. Having them inside poses a thermal burn risk.
Lighting - Im using the "Reptile System T8 Zone 2 6% UVI 2.0 15W" For your UVB are you using a solarmeter to determine the UVI? T8 fixtures do not put out the same UVI level that a T5HO will. So for a Panther your looking for a 3 UVI. A 2 UVI is better than nothing but 3 is considered optimal. I would recommend switching to a T5HO fixture and a 6% or 5.0 linear bulb. You want this fixture to run the width of the enclosure and sit on top of the screen. Then you would have an 8-9 inch distance to the branches directly below it to put the cham in a 3 UVI range. I did use the red lamp "Arcadia 100W, Infrared solar basking E27" This is not our usual one normally it was the "Habistat red night spotlamp150w ES" I have now replaced it with a bulb that is a white/yellow . this originally was what we where planning to use (I've forgotten what brand and type it is but ill try to fund out asap and even find a better one.) we changed to the red lamp since the reptile person recomended when we got him, it seemed okay to trust his opinion, his light turns on at 6:30 am- 6:30 pm, since it gets cold in my house we keep the heat lamp on at a lower temp than in the day. it doesn't emit much light to my eye but of course their eyes are different Yep no red bulbs at night or during the day.
Temperature - Near the basking light its around 80-85 F (sometimes it may reach 90 on hot days but if it does I make sure to turn it down and get it colder asap.) At night its around 70-74F but now I realise I need to lower that temp at night. We generally have a thermometer in there, but we also have a wire that measures the temp under the heat bulb and controls the heat emitted by the temp its at. So you really want temps to be able to drop at night down to 60 is perfectly fine for them. If for any reason you were to have to use heat at night you would use a CHE bulb but these have to be on top of the cage. These are high risk for thermal burns. Use a low watt one because they produce a lot of heat. These should also be on a thermostat to control how hot it gets at night. You still want it cool. But if your house gets below 50 then you have to add heat. Too cold is not good either.
Humidity - Humidity generally is varied from 60-85% I mist the cage often and the sprayers that go off also increase the humidity. Normally the thermometer I get also has a humidity meter under it also to monitor both. So your looking for 50-60% during the day for him. and then at night it can be high but it has to be cool as well or they can develop a respiratory infection.
Plants - Yes I do use live plants I've forgotten specifically which however I do thorough research to check its safe
Placement - Currently its located in my living room. He's ontop a cabinet to allow him a higher placement and is quite happy there as he gets to see the everything,
Location - Im located in the UK.
Current Problem - His left eye facing him/Right eye from his perspective is closed during the day and Im not sure is something is stuck in it or a lack of vitamin A and just wondering how long I should help him at home before a get him to the vet as I don't want to cause stress to him if its a minor issue.
It would not be due to lack of vitamin A. Your nutrobal has high levels of A. Either he has something in the eye or his UVB is not producing as it should be. Lower UVI can cause them to start closing eyes. Could also be a sign of infection but since it is just one eye I am leaning away from this right now. I would increase the misting times so he has an opportunity to clean the eye. I would also look at upgrading the UVB> Unless you have a solarmeter and know exactly what the UVI level is at his back when he basks.
Understandable but I wouldn't know how to place the lights on the outside for a wooden top? Please help
Sure.... So your not going to want to do a solid top. You would build your frame of wood. Then that has to be sealed with a water based sealant. You let that gas off for about 2 weeks. Make sure you do not seal it in your home. The fumes are toxic to the cham and not so good for people lol. Once the cage is sealed you want to add your sides. The top should be aluminum window screen. This way lighting sits on top of the cage. You will put in this screen where you need it for airflow on the sides. You can use pvc sheets that you cut down to make solid sides for the cage. This was my build thread for an outdoor enclosure... Same concept that you would use. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/my-outdoor-enclosure-build.175829/Understandable but I wouldn't know how to place the lights on the outside for a wooden top? Please help
Omds thank you so much you've been a big help, sorry for the hole explanation I needed
I will definitely do more research and also take in what you have replied with! Once again thank you!
You are totally fine. Thank you for the laugh this morning. Just let us know if you have any questions. This husbandry program will really help you https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/Omds thank you so much you've been a big help, sorry for the hole explanation I needed
And then ask your questions here. There is a search bar in the forum. Look up Build or cage build. You will get different threads pop up for build threads.
