Chameleon Closing Eyes while Basking
- Thread starter Maddofai
- Start date
Maddofai
New Member
Is there a clear plastic piece on the bottom of your fixture covering the bulb? If so this must be removed.
Looks like the T8 fixture can you tell me the bulb strength in it? Basking has to be much closer below these fixtures because the UVB does not penetrate far enough into the cage. Let me know what it is and I can tell you the distance it needs to be at. It should say on the bulb 5.0 or 10.0.
Based on what I am seeing with your cage set up and lighting I would say she is not getting the UVB she needs. This leads to them closing their eyes when they shouldn't along with other major health issues like MBD.
There are other issues like the fake plants and the hammocks. Neither should be used with a veiled. The fake plants are an impaction risk and the hammocks they can get their nails caught in. You want Veiled tested live plants and all real branches.
Real plant list: https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
Dragon ledges and drip pans. https://dragonstrand.com/alternative-cage-manufaturers/
Start reading these two links for husbandry and set up. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
Thompson
Chameleon Enthusiast
Please also fill this out on top of the pic you added, which is very helpful and I already can offer some advice based on what I see.
You need more foliage in your chameleons cage, and branches as well. He needs this added foliage to feel safe and secure, and the branches to travel around his cage easily. I would get rid of the hammock thingy you have and are using as his basking "perch" because I read that these can injure your chameleon (I'm not entirely sure how, maybe his nails could get caught on the threads easily and get ripped out). Also it isn't natural for your chameleon to walk on or grab, or bask on in the wild. I would stick to using natural things your chameleon would encounter in the wild, in your cage set-up (live plants especially for your veiled since they tend to eat vegetation more than other species. Get rid of the silk plants because of this. Might ingest and get impacted). Live plants also add humidity and produce fresher air. There is a paper towel at the bottom of the cage as well, I would remove that as this tends to hold on to moisture longer when it gets wet and mixed with chameleon poop and possible dead crickets/roaches, becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and mold.
I will answer the rest once you completed the form
Chameleon Info:
Cage Info:
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
WHILE I AM NOT GOING TO TAKE THE TIME TO EDIT MY RUN-ON AND AWKARD SENTENCES, I APOLOGIZE FOR MY HORRENDOUS GRAMMAR LMAO
You need more foliage in your chameleons cage, and branches as well. He needs this added foliage to feel safe and secure, and the branches to travel around his cage easily. I would get rid of the hammock thingy you have and are using as his basking "perch" because I read that these can injure your chameleon (I'm not entirely sure how, maybe his nails could get caught on the threads easily and get ripped out). Also it isn't natural for your chameleon to walk on or grab, or bask on in the wild. I would stick to using natural things your chameleon would encounter in the wild, in your cage set-up (live plants especially for your veiled since they tend to eat vegetation more than other species. Get rid of the silk plants because of this. Might ingest and get impacted). Live plants also add humidity and produce fresher air. There is a paper towel at the bottom of the cage as well, I would remove that as this tends to hold on to moisture longer when it gets wet and mixed with chameleon poop and possible dead crickets/roaches, becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and mold.
I will answer the rest once you completed the form
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
- Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
- Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
- Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
- Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
- History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
- Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
- Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
- Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
- Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
- Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
- Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
WHILE I AM NOT GOING TO TAKE THE TIME TO EDIT MY RUN-ON AND AWKARD SENTENCES, I APOLOGIZE FOR MY HORRENDOUS GRAMMAR LMAO
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Maddofai
New Member
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, female, 7 months old. I’ve had her for about 2 months.
- Handling - I handle her about once a week
- Feeding - Her staple diet consists of crickets and mealworms. Hornworms and superworms as treats. 8-12 crickets a day, if I feed a mealworm I do less crickets. When I feed treats I do it 2-3 times a week. She is fed in the morning, and free ranges loose crickets through the day. I gut load crickets with Fluker’s high calcium and turnip greens.
- Supplements - Calcium without D3 is Fluker’s. Calcium with D3 is Fluker’s. Multivitamin is ExoTerra. Calcium without D3 is given everyday. I put it in my cricket bag and shake it up so they all get dusted. Calcium w/ D3 and Multivitamins are given 2 times a month.
- Watering - I use a homemade dripper system which is a plastic bottle that I sanitize. I mist 2-3 times a day until all the plants are thoroughly wet. I see my chameleon drink all the time.
- Fecal Description - Her poops have all been the same (including the white “sack”) her poop is brown and about a half inch long, never runny. They’re solid but not too solid if that makes sense. Her white “sack” is always white never yellow or orange.
- History - she came from a reptile breeder and exotic animal breeder.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - screen cage, 24x24x48
- Lighting - the UVB is a Zilla 18” 15 watt bulb with T8 desert 50. The Heat lamp came with the starter kit I purchased when getting her. I don’t know the brand. They just gave it to me and told me it was good for her.
- Temperature - her basking spot is about 80° the floor is about 73°. Lowest overnight temp is my household temp and it is usually 70°. I measure with a temp gun.
- Humidity - I don’t know my humidity levels. I mist her cage and have a dripper to create humidity. I’ve also purchased a humidifier which is on its way. I don’t have a means to measure humidity.
- Plants - Plants are silk.
- Placement - cage is located in my bedroom. It isn’t near fans or vents and my room is low traffic, just me. The top of the cage relative to your room floor is 4 feet.
- Location - Huntsville, Alabama
Maddofai
New Member
Yes, there is a plastic covering! It came that way, I had no idea it blocks UVB
The bulb is T8 15 watt desert 50. Thank you for your response!
Thompson
Chameleon Enthusiast
Spot on. You have good eyes lol.
cruz.m
Avid Member
I recommend these at least 24”Yes, there is a plastic covering! It came that way, I had no idea it blocks UVB
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html
Sorry but here are links to plants, branches, lights, laying bin, and supplements. Someone will review your husbandry shortly
Attachments
So your going to pull off the plastic so the bulb is exposed. And you want to buy a reptisun T8 10.0 bulb for it. The one you have is not as good.Yes, there is a plastic covering! It came that way, I had no idea it blocks UVB
With the new bulb... You will adjust the closest branch below it so that it sits 6-7 inches below with the fixture right on the frame top. This will give an approximate 3 uvi level. Make sure the baby can not get that close to the heat fixture though this is just for the UVB>
Baby had no UVB this is what was causing the issues.
Females will lay infertile eggs so making sure her husbandry is perfect is really important.
cruz.m
Avid Member
The form is filled out
I will go through your form.Yes, there is a plastic covering! It came that way, I had no idea it blocks UVB
Maddofai
New Member
Thank you so much! I will remove the plastic and add some more branches higher up for her. As for her basking spot, do you reckon it’s high enough? As for when she becomes Gravid I’ll make sure she has the proper laying bin! Here’s the form:
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, female, 7 months old. I’ve had her for about 2 months.
- Handling - I handle her about once a week
- Feeding - Her staple diet consists of crickets and mealworms. Hornworms and superworms as treats. 8-12 crickets a day, if I feed a mealworm I do less crickets. When I feed treats I do it 2-3 times a week. She is fed in the morning, and free ranges loose crickets through the day. I gut load crickets with Fluker’s high calcium and turnip greens.
- Supplements - Calcium without D3 is Fluker’s. Calcium with D3 is Fluker’s. Multivitamin is ExoTerra. Calcium without D3 is given everyday. I put it in my cricket bag and shake it up so they all get dusted. Calcium w/ D3 and Multivitamins are given 2 times a month.
- Watering - I use a homemade dripper system which is a plastic bottle that I sanitize. I mist 2-3 times a day until all the plants are thoroughly wet. I see my chameleon drink all the time.
- Fecal Description - Her poops have all been the same (including the white “sack”) her poop is brown and about a half inch long, never runny. They’re solid but not too solid if that makes sense. Her white “sack” is always white never yellow or orange.
- History - she came from a reptile breeder and exotic animal breeder.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - screen cage, 24x24x48
- Lighting - the UVB is a Zilla 18” 15 watt bulb with T8 desert 50. The Heat lamp came with the starter kit I purchased when getting her. I don’t know the brand. They just gave it to me and told me it was good for her.
- Temperature - her basking spot is about 80° the floor is about 73°. Lowest overnight temp is my household temp and it is usually 70°. I measure with a temp gun.
- Humidity - I don’t know my humidity levels. I mist her cage and have a dripper to create humidity. I’ve also purchased a humidifier which is on its way. I don’t have a means to measure humidity.
- Plants - Plants are silk.
- Placement - cage is located in my bedroom. It isn’t near fans or vents and my room is low traffic, just me. The top of the cage relative to your room floor is 4 feet.
- Location - Huntsville, Alabama
cruz.m
Avid Member
I put a laying bin picture and video on the link. Look through every link I put. You need live plants for veileds since they are prone to eat their plants and the fake ones can cause impaction.
Maddofai
New Member
Will do!
cruz.m
Avid Member
Also your cham does not look 7 months but @ Beman is reviewing your husbandry right nowWill do!
@Maddofai See my feedback in bold.
Chameleon Info:
Cage Info:
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, female, 7 months old. I’ve had her for about 2 months. Fix the UVB asap with the info I gave you above... She is high risk for MBD and this is very dangerous with females.
- Handling - I handle her about once a week
- Feeding - Her staple diet consists of crickets and mealworms. Hornworms and superworms as treats. 8-12 crickets a day, if I feed a mealworm I do less crickets. When I feed treats I do it 2-3 times a week. She is fed in the morning, and free ranges loose crickets through the day. I gut load crickets with Fluker’s high calcium and turnip greens. Feeding too much for a 7 month old female. This will make her have a larger clutch when she lays eggs. So until she is 9 months old you will feed her 5 every other day including treats. Then when she hits 9 months cut her back to 2-3 every other day. Giving you the image for gutloading options... You can do a commercial gutload but the one your using is not a good one. NO mealworms at all. See feeder image below.
- Supplements - Calcium without D3 is Fluker’s. Calcium with D3 is Fluker’s. Multivitamin is ExoTerra. Calcium without D3 is given everyday. I put it in my cricket bag and shake it up so they all get dusted. Calcium w/ D3 and Multivitamins are given 2 times a month. So the exo terra multivitamin Has D3 in it but it does not have vitamin A. Personally I would switch to reptivite with D3 to replace the exo terra and the flukers with D3. This would be given 2 times a month every other week. With the calcium without D3 used at all other feedings. The Reptivite has the vit A in it that your supplement is missing. OR if you choose to use the ones you have you would drop the flukers with D3 because the exo terra multivitamin has D3. ONly use the exo terra every other week at one feeding and then the calcium without D3 at all other feedings.
- Watering - I use a homemade dripper system which is a plastic bottle that I sanitize. I mist 2-3 times a day until all the plants are thoroughly wet. I see my chameleon drink all the time.
- Fecal Description - Her poops have all been the same (including the white “sack”) her poop is brown and about a half inch long, never runny. They’re solid but not too solid if that makes sense. Her white “sack” is always white never yellow or orange.
- History - she came from a reptile breeder and exotic animal breeder. Get a fecal done... She is very small for a 7 month old chameleon. While females can be smaller then males this is an important thing to rule out potential issues.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - screen cage, 24x24x48
- Lighting - the UVB is a Zilla 18” 15 watt bulb with T8 desert 50. The Heat lamp came with the starter kit I purchased when getting her. I don’t know the brand. They just gave it to me and told me it was good for her. See the info I posted above... This is extremely important and must be changed now.
- Temperature - her basking spot is about 80° the floor is about 73°. Lowest overnight temp is my household temp and it is usually 70°. I measure with a temp gun. 78 is a better temp for a female at basking. 80 would be your very max end. Temps and food contribute to clutch size the more you feed and the hotter the temps the larger the clutch.
- Humidity - I don’t know my humidity levels. I mist her cage and have a dripper to create humidity. I’ve also purchased a humidifier which is on its way. I don’t have a means to measure humidity. So you have to know your humidity levels this is important. 30-50% max during the day then up to 100% at night. Order a digital guage. A cool mist humidifier should only be used at night when all lights are off and temps are below 68.
- Plants - Plants are silk. These all need to be replaced for live. fake plants are extremely dangerous with veileds and pose an impaction risk. See the veiled tested plants here. https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
- Placement - cage is located in my bedroom. It isn’t near fans or vents and my room is low traffic, just me. The top of the cage relative to your room floor is 4 feet.
- Location - Huntsville, Alabama
Thompson
Chameleon Enthusiast
This may stress her out, especially since she might already feel insecure in her cage with little foliage she can hide behind.
You want to make sure that all feeders that are free ranging are out of the cage or are eaten by the time she falls asleep or they can bite her and injure her while she sleeps. You will also need to offer more diverse gutload food items to the crickets such as Yams, carrots, collard greens, mustard greens, apples, oranges, etc. This is a good read on how to give properly get your Cham the nutrients from the feeders it eats https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/food/ (this is also where we as keepers try and minimize the progression of vitamin A deficiencies. But this is why we supplement properly with calcium w/ and w/o d3 and a multivitamin to fill in the blanks where captivity can't replicate what our chameleons would find in the wild naturally
This is a good schedule to follow. But the problem is with your chameleon not getting the d3 from the uvb bulb that it needs to form strong bones etc.
good size. Now start filling her up with live plants that are safe https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/ and branches that intersect one another to form a highway. and you will need a good basking branch or two that sits under both he basking bulb and the uvb bulb. f
How are you measuring the basking spot temp? I forget how far away a 5.0 bulb needs to be from the basking branch but someone will chime in and answer that for you I'm sure. A 5.0 T8 uvb bulb should be safe to run directly across the top of the screen. You might want to put tin-foil in and around the bulb so that the uvb penetrates deeper. Remember though, you need more live plants in the cage to create areas for her to thermoregulate and escape concentrated uvb rays that are stronger at the top, and weak at the bottom. She'll know how to do this herself, and will bask under the uvb and basking bulb depending on how much she needs, and will escape them by going deeper down into the foliage when she's had enough. the problem starts when we do not give them this option to do so, then they risk burning themselves and over heating. This, in itself, can cause eye problems as well.
Raise that to 85 for her she's a veiled they like it a little warmer
veiled's like it less humid than panthers (mostly around 45-50 percent is where they like it) it can spike to 70-80% during and right after mistings but you need to allow the cage to completely dry out and return back to 45-50%.
I would elevate her cage higher on a dresser or something so she feels more secure. Chameleons like to tower over us as arboreal creatures.
cruz.m
Avid Member
The max the heat should be is 80 for a veiled. Also you can buy a cup feeder here’s a link. 4 feet off the ground is goodThis may stress her out, especially since she might already feel insecure in her cage with little foliage she can hide behind.
You want to make sure that all feeders that are free ranging are out of the cage or are eaten by the time she falls asleep or they can bite her and injure her while she sleeps. You will also need to offer more diverse gutload food items to the crickets such as Yams, carrots, collard greens, mustard greens, apples, oranges, etc. This is a good read on how to give properly get your Cham the nutrients from the feeders it eats https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/food/ (this is also where we as keepers try and minimize the progression of vitamin A deficiencies. But this is why we supplement properly with calcium w/ and w/o d3 and a multivitamin to fill in the blanks where captivity can't replicate what our chameleons would find in the wild naturally
This is a good schedule to follow. But the problem is with your chameleon not getting the d3 from the uvb bulb that it needs to form strong bones etc.
good size. Now start filling her up with live plants that are safe https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/ and branches that intersect one another to form a highway. and you will need a good basking branch or two that sits under both he basking bulb and the uvb bulb. f
How are you measuring the basking spot temp? I forget how far away a 5.0 bulb needs to be from the basking branch but someone will chime in and answer that for you I'm sure. A 5.0 T8 uvb bulb should be safe to run directly across the top of the screen. You might want to put tin-foil in and around the bulb so that the uvb penetrates deeper. Remember though, you need more live plants in the cage to create areas for her to thermoregulate and escape concentrated uvb rays that are stronger at the top, and weak at the bottom. She'll know how to do this herself, and will bask under the uvb and basking bulb depending on how much she needs, and will escape them by going deeper down into the foliage when she's had enough. the problem starts when we do not give them this option to do so, then they risk burning themselves and over heating. This, in itself, can cause eye problems as well.
Raise that to 85 for her she's a veiled they like it a little warmer
veiled's like it less humid than panthers (mostly around 45-50 percent is where they like it) it can spike to 70-80% during and right after mistings but you need to allow the cage to completely dry out and return back to 45-50%.
I would elevate her cage higher on a dresser or something so she feels more secure. Chameleons like to tower over us as arboreal creatures.
https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-BPV1181-Universal/dp/B004LOEJQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=bird+feeder+cup&qid=1611941861&sr=8-3
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