Can't find a plant that will work and need soil advice.

[VisionaryTrance]

I was wondering if a Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum) and/or Corylus Avellana (aka Harry Lauder's walking stick) would be OK to put with my cham and if they are toxic at all.
I have gone to many nurseries and hadn't had luck finding a good plant.
I mainly need it because my present plant (that I was planning on upgrading on anyway) has very tiny white bugs in the soil. They aren't crawling up the trunks or leaves but they make me nervous.
Is there a way I can prevent these bugs from coming back in the future?

 

[Vegas Chad]

http://www.tikitikireptiles.com/pages.php?id=8

 

[Chase]

I was wondering if a Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum) and/or Corylus Avellana (aka Harry Lauder's walking stick) would be OK to put with my cham and if they are toxic at all.
I have gone to many nurseries and hadn't had luck finding a good plant.
I mainly need it because my present plant (that I was planning on upgrading on anyway) has very tiny white bugs in the soil. They aren't crawling up the trunks or leaves but they make me nervous.
Is there a way I can prevent these bugs from coming back in the future?

Where are you from? I work at a nursery and have never heard or seen one of those bugs.

Chad gave you a list, most nurseries will have something on the list. When you get a new plant, it's suggested that you wash the soil off and replant it in an organic soil with no fertilizer or pesticides. I can tell you with 100% certainty that there is probably pesticides/herbicides, fertilizers, and probably a weed growth inhibitor in the soil. So by washing the rootball, and replanting in the organic soil, you're basically eliminating the risk from these chemicals.

Chase

 

[MeruJack]

I have 10 chameleons in 6 screen enclosures (5 are less than a month old and share a single enclosure at this time) and all 6 enclosures have real plants (and a few fake vines & wooden dowels). I get all my live plants from Home Depot. They have umbrella trees & bushes as well as pothos and other great chameleon-safe plants at very reasonable prices.

 

[CashMoney]

Do the bugs kind of jump if you sprinkle water around them? If so they are springtails. They are common and indigenous to most areas. Springtail cultures are marketed as feeders too. Posting a picture as zoomed as possible helps. I have lots of experience fighting soil bugs.

 

[CashMoney]

Predatory nematodes destroy soil bugs too. A full layer of sand beneath river stones for animal safety would work as well. It has to be reasonably thick so it can dry out and cut up invading bugs though. At least 3/4". Mix in a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth a super barrier.

Soil bugs feed on dead root mass and are a sign of under or over water USUALLY as well. More drainage in the soil mix by adding perlite or lava rocks can help with over watering. Adding peat and hydrated water crystals helps with under water.

Centipedes, springtails, and isopods all contribute to healthy soil. Personally I wouldn't fight any of those off. I hope I helped.

 

[Chase]

Even if the bugs are springtails, there is no way I would not wash the plant and root ball off and replant. I know all of the different chemicals put on it, and I would not take the chance, but that's just my opinion

Chase

 

[Montium]

You may want to consider expanded clay pellets. You can get them at most hydroponic stores and some nurseries that sell orchids. With the amount of water that is used with chams most plants in soil get root rot. The white bugs are probably some kind of fly larva, drain fly, fruit fly etc. The only drawback to the pellets is the weight.

 

[VisionaryTrance]

Predatory nematodes destroy soil bugs too. A full layer of sand beneath river stones for animal safety would work as well. It has to be reasonably thick so it can dry out and cut up invading bugs though. At least 3/4". Mix in a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth a super barrier.

Soil bugs feed on dead root mass and are a sign of under or over water USUALLY as well. More drainage in the soil mix by adding perlite or lava rocks can help with over watering. Adding peat and hydrated water crystals helps with under water.

Centipedes, springtails, and isopods all contribute to healthy soil. Personally I wouldn't fight any of those off. I hope I helped.

So I am thinking now I will just repot the plant with organic soil, do I put 3/4" of sand and like an inch of stones on TOP of the soil?

 

[Chase]

So I am thinking now I will just repot the plant with organic soil, do I put 3/4" of sand and like an inch of stones on TOP of the soil?

Yea. People put rocks on the soil so the chameleon doesn't eat dirt, which could cause impaction, but I've never done it and I've never had an issue with impaction.

Chase

 

[VisionaryTrance]

They are very small and white so you have to look closely at the pictures but I saw a few that had little white antennas too.

 

[VisionaryTrance]

Yea. People put rocks on the soil so the chameleon doesn't eat dirt, which could cause impaction, but I've never done it and I've never had an issue with impaction.

Chase

Cool. So will I need to change out the sand, rocks or even the soil at all?

 

[VisionaryTrance]

You may want to consider expanded clay pellets. You can get them at most hydroponic stores and some nurseries that sell orchids. With the amount of water that is used with chams most plants in soil get root rot. The white bugs are probably some kind of fly larva, drain fly, fruit fly etc. The only drawback to the pellets is the weight.

Will those get rid of the bugs and prevent them from coming back, and do they also help with drainage?

 

[Carlton]

So I am thinking now I will just repot the plant with organic soil, do I put 3/4" of sand and like an inch of stones on TOP of the soil?

No, to improve drainage in a potted plant, you can add perlite, very COARSE sand (fine sand will suffocate the roots if it stays too wet), pebbles, even packing peanuts to the lower part of the pot to speed up how quickly the water drains. Make sure the pot has adequate drain holes. To keep a cham from trying to eat or shoot at the soil surface, you can put some larger smooth stones on the surface, or a piece of window screen.

Some live soil organisms aren't a bad thing at all. They shouldn't bother your chams.

 

[Carlton]

Will those get rid of the bugs and prevent them from coming back, and do they also help with drainage?

The clay pellets (often sold under a name such as Hygroton) definitely help with drainage. I often mix some in with my potting soil if the plant hates sitting wet. I don't know if they'll prevent bugs or not, but if you are using any potting soil you'll probably get some eventually. Again, they are a sign of healthy soil and probably more of a nuisance to you, not your cham.

 

[CashMoney]

If you are using the same dirt and think its contaminated you can always freeze it or bake it to kill most bugs. Freezing being easier. Baking at 325 for 20 min a sure fire way of killing bacteria and bugs. It needs to be properly rehydrated with a surfectant afterward (aloe puree in water if you have a plant, "green" dishsoap works too). Freezing is way easier.

Fresh dirt is ideal. Get some drainage materials too. My favorite is "growstone" expanded glass fake rocks. Its really lightweight and easier on enclosures and my back. Lava rock in the area of 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch can work, hyroton pellets are okay. You want a big rocky one and some little pebbly stuff. Coarse perlite is good and cheap. Medium orchid bark is ok for most. 25% big rocks 25% little rocks (can sub up to 10% orchid bark) 50% dirt. Most plants in that mix that get misted until water runs into their pot will be OK. Adding 3/4 inch of sand will make a bug deterrent, topping with large river stones makes sure the cham can't snack on sand.

Lightbulb Moment.... Get a bag of napa floor dry 100% diatomaceous earth (it's 100% fossilized diatoms, natural and cheap). Used for its absorbing properties. It's great mixed into dirt as a silica source and would make the best bug killing top layer. The really rocky stuff is a good small rock source for soil too.

Sand and diatomaceous earth both work to kill small bugs by cutting their chitin and sucking out the moisture. Burrowing root bugs don't go through it. If they do they die. When wet it doesn't work the same way.

Predatory nematodes will destroy the bugs too. Very common in the agricultural world. Found on the big A with 4 star ratings if your local garden center lacks. Mine carries Natures Control brand and keeps them refrigerated along with lady bugs and mantis ooth's. They die if the soil dries out though. I treat all my 50ish indoor plants with a dose to prevent and or treat at least once a year. One package watered down.

I have a ficus benjamina planted in just small rocks, red lava rock cinders, and a really shallow bonsai pot with river stone cover that's growing fiercely. It sits under a mist nozzle that goes off 2 times a day for 20 min total. All it needs is rocks. No soil, no bugs.

 

[Chase]

If you are using the same dirt and think its contaminated you can always freeze it or bake it to kill most bugs. Freezing being easier. Baking at 325 for 20 min a sure fire way of killing bacteria and bugs. It needs to be properly rehydrated with a surfectant afterward (aloe puree in water if you have a plant, "green" dishsoap works too). Freezing is way easier.

Fresh dirt is ideal. Get some drainage materials too. My favorite is "growstone" expanded glass fake rocks. Its really lightweight and easier on enclosures and my back. Lava rock in the area of 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch can work, hyroton pellets are okay. You want a big rocky one and some little pebbly stuff. Coarse perlite is good and cheap. Medium orchid bark is ok for most. 25% big rocks 25% little rocks (can sub up to 10% orchid bark) 50% dirt. Most plants in that mix that get misted until water runs into their pot will be OK. Adding 3/4 inch of sand will make a bug deterrent, topping with large river stones makes sure the cham can't snack on sand.

Lightbulb Moment.... Get a bag of napa floor dry 100% diatomaceous earth (it's 100% fossilized diatoms, natural and cheap). Used for its absorbing properties. It's great mixed into dirt as a silica source and would make the best bug killing top layer. The really rocky stuff is a good small rock source for soil too.

Sand and diatomaceous earth both work to kill small bugs by cutting their chitin and sucking out the moisture. Burrowing root bugs don't go through it. If they do they die. When wet it doesn't work the same way.

Predatory nematodes will destroy the bugs too. Very common in the agricultural world. Found on the big A with 4 star ratings if your local garden center lacks. Mine carries Natures Control brand and keeps them refrigerated along with lady bugs and mantis ooth's. They die if the soil dries out though. I treat all my 50ish indoor plants with a dose to prevent and or treat at least once a year. One package watered down.

I have a ficus benjamina planted in just small rocks, red lava rock cinders, and a really shallow bonsai pot with river stone cover that's growing fiercely. It sits under a mist nozzle that goes off 2 times a day for 20 min total. All it needs is rocks. No soil, no bugs.

Did you bonsai the ficus or did you buy it?

Chase

 

[jajeanpierre]

You may want to consider expanded clay pellets. You can get them at most hydroponic stores and some nurseries that sell orchids. With the amount of water that is used with chams most plants in soil get root rot. The white bugs are probably some kind of fly larva, drain fly, fruit fly etc. The only drawback to the pellets is the weight.

I would be careful with using those clay pellets, especially if you have a veiled. My veiled eats everything. When he first came, his stool was full of rocks and big bark chips from the substrate. I've seen him snap up great globs of soil. He would graze on those clay pellets if they weren't covered.

Great idea about using them instead of soil.

 

[jajeanpierre]

I have a ficus benjamina planted in just small rocks, red lava rock cinders, and a really shallow bonsai pot with river stone cover that's growing fiercely. It sits under a mist nozzle that goes off 2 times a day for 20 min total. All it needs is rocks. No soil, no bugs.

You just gave me a great idea. The ficus should be able to grow right on a piece of cork. I bet it could be attached the same way one attaches orchids to cork. I've seen buildings completely covered by ficus roots. I hope this link works. It is a picture of an alley in downtown Christiansted. The three columns on the right are the same as the column on the left, but are covered in roots.

http://nelthropp-low.com/st-croix/

 

[CashMoney]

Did you bonsai the ficus or did you buy it?

Chase

I bought the ficus. it was around 18" tall with two kind of thin trunks protruding from the same stump. It looked like great bonsai stock and cost around $10. Removed around 85-90% of the dirt with gentle brushing and shaking, and put in a small pot trying to layer roots with rocks as I potted the plant. I didn't feel the need to trim any of the roots down. most were under 10" long. Then I trimmed the top leaders and cleaned up the under foliage so it fit well in the enclosure.

That is the start of bonsai, but the tree needs considerable age be considered bonsai by eastern standards. At least 5-10 years of good trunk growth.

Many tropical bonsai and epiphytic (non root locked) plants grow really well in constant misted conditions that chams require. Many people find the daily mistings challenging when cared for by themselves, but tending to animal needs can make sure you do your chores.

Orchids, Nepenthes, Tillandsias, Tropical bonsai candidates or specimens all thrive with daily mistings. They look gorgeous as well.