Broken ribs?

Nryan1209

New Member
It can be an Imbalance in nutrients. It's hard to overdo calcium...but if other things are out of balance then excess calcium can be deposited like that an in the organs.
Like what? He’s growing perfectly fine, never has a bad color. I just don’t know what nutrients I’m missing out on.
 

Nryan1209

New Member
How large are the crickets you feed him? I’ve attached the feeder and gutload charts below. Has he ever been to an experienced chameleon vet before? His misting sessions should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes each time, preferably only in the morning and at night when the cage is cooler, if your humidity levels allow it. Also, his daytime humidity levels need to be between 30-50%. What your daytime humidity levels are right now are what his nighttime humidity levels should be. How far away is his basking branch from his heat and UVB bulbs (what strength and brand of fixture and bulb do you have for your UVB)? His basking temp needs to be measured with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch. The Exo Terra vines need to be removed and replaced ASAP as well! They can cause health issues with the debris that comes off of them. If the substrate isn’t bioactive, it needs to go ASAP, too, as it’s an impaction risk (as well as the fake plants, too, but you can hang the fake plants on the outside of his cage for added privacy)! For your cage, it needs TONS more plants (all live chameleon-safe and veiled-tested, I posted two charts below for them, also make sure to properly clean the plants off beforehand, too), multiple species and diameters of branches (no moss-covered dowels or branches from toxic or sap-producing trees), and vines (preferably all live, but fake ones that aren’t moss or Exo Terra can work if needed, like Fluker’s vines). This website has the most accurate and up-to-date info, so make sure to read through every module and the veiled species profile, as well as listen to as many podcasts as possible, from them!
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
And here are two great cage set-up links!
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
Here’s a great plant link, as well!
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
I would love to get those plants but I’m not sure if any stores near me sell them. It dosent help that it’s winter here right now either. I give him large adult crickets every feed. I just bought super worms right now because all pet stores near me are out of crickets. His basking spot is about 8 inches from the bulb. I gave details about the brand of the bulb in an earlier post but it’s an exo terra 75 watt bulb. He hasn’t been to an experienced vet yet either. I was mistaken when I said 75% it never gets that high it’s always between 20%-50% I’ve been watching it all day today. I don’t remember how many watts the uvb strip is but I remember researching the hell out of it and it’s zoo med. it costed me $100. My substrate is bio active and it’s reptile safe. I’m not sure what you mean by the degree that falls off of them? He dosent eat his dirt and wouldnt eat anything that falls off of them. I’m not sure what would harm him. I understand I need more plants and a bigger cage. Someone also said that chameleons don’t beg to come out but I think they are mistaken. I’ve talked to others who say once a chameleon is spoiled with free range that they don’t like their cage and I think that’s what’s wrong with mine, but I will upgrade and see if that persists or not. Thank you for the help.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Like what? He’s growing perfectly fine, never has a bad color. I just don’t know what nutrients I’m missing out on.
His food items have never been gutloaded properly, which means he’s missed out on lots of nutrients that a cham normally gets through gutloaded foods
 

GrayMadder

Chameleon Enthusiast
I don’t remember how many watts the uvb strip is but I remember researching the hell out of it and it’s zoo med. it costed me $100.
It's best to find this information out instead of guessing so you know exactly how much uvb your cham is getting. If you basking branch is too close or too far from your chams uvb source it can lead to burns or your cham not receiving sufficient uvb which could later on down the road cause mbd.

Chameleons are very good at hiding their sickness. Usually by the time you notice any signs of sickness, it's because the cham can no longer hide it, the sickness is so severe at this point, and he will start to shut down.
 

Nryan1209

New Member
It's best to find this information out instead of guessing so you know exactly how much uvb your cham is getting. If you basking branch is too close or too far from your chams uvb source it can lead to burns or your cham not receiving sufficient uvb which could later on down the road cause mbd.

Chameleons are very good at hiding their sickness. Usually by the time you notice any signs of sickness, it's because the cham can no longer hide it, the sickness is so severe at this point, and he will start to shut down.
I’m not guessing, like I said, I researched the bulb prior to buying it I just don’t remember the exact details.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
I would love to get those plants but I’m not sure if any stores near me sell them. It dosent help that it’s winter here right now either. I give him large adult crickets every feed. I just bought super worms right now because all pet stores near me are out of crickets. His basking spot is about 8 inches from the bulb. I gave details about the brand of the bulb in an earlier post but it’s an exo terra 75 watt bulb. He hasn’t been to an experienced vet yet either. I was mistaken when I said 75% it never gets that high it’s always between 20%-50% I’ve been watching it all day today. I don’t remember how many watts the uvb strip is but I remember researching the hell out of it and it’s zoo med. it costed me $100. My substrate is bio active and it’s reptile safe. I’m not sure what you mean by the degree that falls off of them? He dosent eat his dirt and wouldnt eat anything that falls off of them. I’m not sure what would harm him. I understand I need more plants and a bigger cage. Someone also said that chameleons don’t beg to come out but I think they are mistaken. I’ve talked to others who say once a chameleon is spoiled with free range that they don’t like their cage and I think that’s what’s wrong with mine, but I will upgrade and see if that persists or not. Thank you for the help.
Lowe’s and Home Depot might have a few of those plants left, and you can also check out local nurseries, too! You are feeding too many bugs for his age. He should only be getting 2-3 properly gutloaded and supplemented large crickets (or the equivalent of with different feeders) either every other day or three times a week. You said in an earlier post you had all Zoo Med bulbs and fixtures, so is it Zoo Med or Exo Terra UVB? Is the fixture a T5 High Output or T8 linear light fixture, and is there plastic or anything covering the bulb? You need to use only either Arcadia (replace yearly) or Zoo Med (replace every 6 months) linear UVB bulbs. The type of fixture changes what strength UVB bulb needs to be used and how far away the bulb should be from the basking branch, so please let us know! Definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it! It’ll tell you where to accurately place your basking branch and let you know when the UVB bulb actually needs to be replaced (when the readings are cut in half). Where do you live? We can try to help you find a good vet! The daytime humidity shouldn’t be as low as 20%, but between 30-50%. Live plants will really help with raising and stabilizing humidity! I would recommend covering the soil with leaf litter to add food for the clean-up crew and to cover the substrate. Exo Terra vines have debris that can easily go into and cause health issues with a chameleon’s eye(s) when rubbing their head, eyes, etc. when shedding or scratching an itch. Chameleons do not beg to come out if everything is correct. It means they are uncomfortable in their cage and that it needs to be worked on! Make sure your upgraded cage is a minimum of 2’ x 2’ x 4’ tall, but it is preferred to go 4’ x 2’ x 4’ tall or bigger! Bigger is always better! If you do a free-range enclosure, it still needs proper UVB, heat, and mistings with it, along with chameleon-proofing a room.
 

Nryan1209

New Member
Lowe’s and Home Depot might have a few of those plants left, and you can also check out local nurseries, too! You are feeding too many bugs for his age. He should only be getting 2-3 properly gutloaded and supplemented large crickets (or the equivalent of with different feeders) either every other day or three times a week. You said in an earlier post you had all Zoo Med bulbs and fixtures, so is it Zoo Med or Exo Terra UVB? Is the fixture a T5 High Output or T8 linear light fixture, and is there plastic or anything covering the bulb? You need to use only either Arcadia (replace yearly) or Zoo Med (replace every 6 months) linear UVB bulbs. The type of fixture changes what strength UVB bulb needs to be used and how far away the bulb should be from the basking branch, so please let us know! Definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it! It’ll tell you where to accurately place your basking branch and let you know when the UVB bulb actually needs to be replaced (when the readings are cut in half). Where do you live? We can try to help you find a good vet! The daytime humidity shouldn’t be as low as 20%, but between 30-50%. Live plants will really help with raising and stabilizing humidity! I would recommend covering the soil with leaf litter to add food for the clean-up crew and to cover the substrate. Exo Terra vines have debris that can easily go into and cause health issues with a chameleon’s eye(s) when rubbing their head, eyes, etc. when shedding or scratching an itch. Chameleons do not beg to come out if everything is correct. It means they are uncomfortable in their cage and that it needs to be worked on! Make sure your upgraded cage is a minimum of 2’ x 2’ x 4’ tall, but it is preferred to go 4’ x 2’ x 4’ tall or bigger! Bigger is always better! If you do a free-range enclosure, it still needs proper UVB, heat, and mistings with it, along with chameleon-proofing a room.
Thank you I really appreciate your help. There’s this other dude who has an attitude problem when I’m just asking for help, but you know how to make things clear. I get paid this Friday and I will make sure to upgrade and I will tag you in a post if I can. So do you think I’m making him fat by feeding him like 10 crickets every feed? He acts like he’s starving when I don’t, like he’ll come on top of his open cage door and shoot his tounge at my eye brows. I get all mixed information online, so that why everything isn’t %100. I hope Home Depot has some of those plants, but last time I was there there really wasn’t anything nice looking as it was covered in salt, etc... I live in Schaumburg, IL to be exact. I also have the Zoo med UVB light strip which is due for replacement next month. I will make sure to upgrade everything and make sure my crickets are gut loaded and all that. I’m willing to spend my whole check on Friday because that’s how much I love this guy. I heard it’s pretty rare to get a cham that like to crawl on you so I really don’t want to loose this special guy. Thank you so much for your time and expertise and I promise you I will give him everything that’s needed!
 

Haley Hendrix

Avid Member
I would love to get those plants but I’m not sure if any stores near me sell them. It dosent help that it’s winter here right now either. I give him large adult crickets every feed. I just bought super worms right now because all pet stores near me are out of crickets. His basking spot is about 8 inches from the bulb. I gave details about the brand of the bulb in an earlier post but it’s an exo terra 75 watt bulb. He hasn’t been to an experienced vet yet either. I was mistaken when I said 75% it never gets that high it’s always between 20%-50% I’ve been watching it all day today. I don’t remember how many watts the uvb strip is but I remember researching the hell out of it and it’s zoo med. it costed me $100. My substrate is bio active and it’s reptile safe. I’m not sure what you mean by the degree that falls off of them? He dosent eat his dirt and wouldnt eat anything that falls off of them. I’m not sure what would harm him. I understand I need more plants and a bigger cage. Someone also said that chameleons don’t beg to come out but I think they are mistaken. I’ve talked to others who say once a chameleon is spoiled with free range that they don’t like their cage and I think that’s what’s wrong with mine, but I will upgrade and see if that persists or not. Thank you for the help.
Hi again, I added you on snap so i can help you out some more. You will need to upgrade soon and when you do i recommend the dragon strand ledges, they are a little of the pricey side but they are so so worth it. They make it so much easier to hang plants and branches. You need more plants and branches. We are all here to help and we know what we are talking about. Make the changes said so your guy can be as happy and as healthy as he can be.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you I really appreciate your help. There’s this other dude who has an attitude problem when I’m just asking for help, but you know how to make things clear. I get paid this Friday and I will make sure to upgrade and I will tag you in a post if I can. So do you think I’m making him fat by feeding him like 10 crickets every feed? He acts like he’s starving when I don’t, like he’ll come on top of his open cage door and shoot his tounge at my eye brows. I get all mixed information online, so that why everything isn’t %100. I hope Home Depot has some of those plants, but last time I was there there really wasn’t anything nice looking as it was covered in salt, etc... I live in Schaumburg, IL to be exact. I also have the Zoo med UVB light strip which is due for replacement next month. I will make sure to upgrade everything and make sure my crickets are gut loaded and all that. I’m willing to spend my whole check on Friday because that’s how much I love this guy. I heard it’s pretty rare to get a cham that like to crawl on you so I really don’t want to loose this special guy. Thank you so much for your time and expertise and I promise you I will give him everything that’s needed!
The other person is just trying to help, same as me. Veileds are conditioned to always be hungry because they have very short lives in the wild. He isn’t getting fat from the crickets right now because they’re holding no nutrition. You need to start weening him off that amount (or just go cold turkey and start with the new schedule immediately), and you have to start properly gutloading your feeder insects ASAP! This forum has tons of great experienced members who use and give proper info based on their experiences and science, and The Chameleon Academy has tons of great science-based care (their info is the most accurate and up-to-date!), too! These two places have the best info on chams! Is your UVB fixture a T5 HO or T8 (it’ll tell you on the UVB bulb inside of the fixture)? What strength of bulb do you use (5.0 or 10.0)? @jannb do you know of any good chameleon vets in Schaumburg, IL?
 

GrayMadder

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you I really appreciate your help. There’s this other dude who has an attitude problem when I’m just asking for help, but you know how to make things clear. I get paid this Friday and I will make sure to upgrade and I will tag you in a post if I can. So do you think I’m making him fat by feeding him like 10 crickets every feed? He acts like he’s starving when I don’t, like he’ll come on top of his open cage door and shoot his tounge at my eye brows. I get all mixed information online, so that why everything isn’t %100. I hope Home Depot has some of those plants, but last time I was there there really wasn’t anything nice looking as it was covered in salt, etc... I live in Schaumburg, IL to be exact. I also have the Zoo med UVB light strip which is due for replacement next month. I will make sure to upgrade everything and make sure my crickets are gut loaded and all that. I’m willing to spend my whole check on Friday because that’s how much I love this guy. I heard it’s pretty rare to get a cham that like to crawl on you so I really don’t want to loose this special guy. Thank you so much for your time and expertise and I promise you I will give him everything that’s needed!
Awesome to hear! And I know he will enjoy the upgrades!!
And if you're speaking about me being the other dude with an attitude problem (you can always tell me because I'm typing and sometimes a tone doesn't come off in a message as the way it sounds in my head) , first off, I'm not a dude 😅 and second I apologize if I came off that way. Was only trying to explain ramifications of the wrong husbandry for chameleons, but I'm learning too and if I sounded harsh in any way then I apologize. Only trying to help as well! 😁😁 can't wait to see the upgrades!! And if you need any more help or want to have your husbandry reviewed we are all here to help you! ❤❤
 

Nryan1209

New Member
The other person is just trying to help, same as me. Veileds are conditioned to always be hungry because they have very short lives in the wild. He isn’t getting fat from the crickets right now because they’re holding no nutrition. You need to start weening him off that amount (or just go cold turkey and start with the new schedule immediately), and you have to start properly gutloading your feeder insects ASAP! This forum has tons of great experienced members who use and give proper info based on their experiences and science, and The Chameleon Academy has tons of great science-based care (their info is the most accurate and up-to-date!), too! These two places have the best info on chams! Is your UVB fixture a T5 HO or T8 (it’ll tell you on the UVB bulb inside of the fixture)? What strength of bulb do you use (5.0 or 10.0)? @jannb do you know of any good chameleon vets in Schaumburg, IL?
 

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GrayMadder

Chameleon Enthusiast
Here's the chart for the appropriate distances for his basking branch ! A t5 is recommended over the t8 tho, however if you have to wait to get it because of the other things just follow the chart and upgrade when you can! 😊
 

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Nryan1209

New Member
So that is a T8 fixture, which means you need a T8 Zoo Med 10.0 or Arcadia 12% so enough UVB can penetrate deep enough.
Here's the chart for the appropriate distances for his basking branch ! A t5 is recommended over the t8 tho, however if you have to wait to get it because of the other things just follow the chart and upgrade when you can! 😊
So if I get a bigger cage, should I get a better fixture and light than this one? Or if I get a T8 10.0 UVB will that be okay for him?
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
The distance from the UVB bulb needs to be around 7-8 inches away from his basking branch for a correct UVI level. Since his UVB bulb hasn’t been strong enough and the feeders never had a proper gutload, make sure the vet does x-rays and bloodwork (it should be safe enough at his age) to make sure he doesn’t have Metabolic Bone Disease or any vitamin deficiencies, etc. Also make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you so they can test it for parasites. Drop off at least 2 more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed!
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
So if I get a bigger cage, should I get a better fixture and light than this one? Or if I get a T8 10.0 UVB will that be okay for him?
Definitely get a T5 HO with a Zoo Med 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb (I personally prefer Arcadia but they work the same) for his new enclosure! The T8 will work, but it isn’t preferred (especially if he does has MBD).
 

GrayMadder

Chameleon Enthusiast
So if I get a bigger cage, should I get a better fixture and light than this one? Or if I get a T8 10.0 UVB will that be okay for him?
So you want the length of the uvb to be the width of the enclosure. So best advice I can give is it depends on how big your next enclosure will be. You can make it work, but if you are going a lot bigger I'd upgrade to the t5. And if you have the money to upgrade, I would definitely do so.
 

Nryan1209

New Member
So you want the length of the uvb to be the width of the enclosure. So best advice I can give is it depends on how big your next enclosure will be. You can make it work, but if you are going a lot bigger I'd upgrade to the t5. And if you have the money to upgrade, I would definitely do so.
Definitely get a T5 HO with a Zoo Med 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb (I personally prefer Arcadia but they work the same) for his new enclosure! The T8 will work, but it isn’t preferred (especially if he does has MBD).
I think I’m going to build his next cage and make it pretty big since I owe him it. I will make sure the wood is ok and he can’t get splinters and all that stuff. So if I get one that shines all the ay down, what happens if he’s in that red zone is that picture you sent? Should I keep the uvb bulb higher, and keep the branches 6 inches away from it?
 
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