Belied Cham not eating

You need to separate them right away. If he's sick you might end up with a sick female if you don't and the stress is likely playing a part on his poor looking condition.
He does not look well at all. Is he pooping?
 
The insects look too big for him. Can you not get some small crickets at a pet store near you?

Do you have a big clear Tupperware type container you could put him in until you get another cage? Set it up with no lid....with branches, plants, etc so he can't reach the top and climb out. You need a UVB long linear tube light for him too....and one for he female too.

I don't think he going to live long if you don't get things straightened out very quickly.
 
ERKleRose said:
Okay, there is a lot of info to go through, and there are many changes that will cost money, so the person who owns the chams needs to be able to fund it. My feedback and any questions will be in red, and I've attached helpful links and images below:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Cham, Male, 3 to 4 months. Have had for 2 weeks I'm not good with veiled ages, but he looks to be much younger than 3-4 months old. Care could have something to do with that, as well.
  • Handling - once a day for five minutes. Do not handle them at all right now, and once they're settled and relaxed, you still want handling to be at a minimum.
  • Feeding - dusted small crickets without d3, small super worms also dusted and collared greens for the super worms. I put about 20 crickets in the morning before I go to work and 5 to 10 worms with a small amount of greens. You're most likely going to need fruit flies (flightless are easier) and pinhead crickets right now, as he's very small. Every feeder needs to be properly gutloaded before feeding off. Use as many of the ingredients in the chart below as possible (in the proper ratios) for the crickets (the fruit flies need fruit fly food). Do you gutload 24/7 or use the good gutload overnight to a few hours before feeding with lesser quality food to the colony? At his size and age, feed as much as he can eat multiple times throughout the day.
  • Supplements - I dust with repti calcium without d3 daily on the 10th and 30th of every month they get with d3 and on the 20th reptivite on all the feeders I use Does the Reptivite have D3 in it? I'm not good with baby supplementation needs, so someone else will have to chime in on the amount of times per month to use D3 and multivitamins.
  • Watering - I mist the cage with a spray bottle 4 to 5 times a day with bottled water that has reptisafe droplets in it. I spray him once in the morning. How long is each misting session?
  • Fecal Description - black with a little white thing in it solid. I would get both fecal-tested for parasites from an experienced chameleon vet. Make sure to drop off at least 2 more fresh fecals afterwards for both to make sure no parasites were missed. I'd also do x-rays on them, as well.
  • History - Used to be housed in a glass container made for small insects pic below still stored with female working on getting another cage to separate them been together since gotten at expo.

Cage Info:
  • Cage type - I have a full screen cage They each need their own cage (like another large ReptiBreeze) with no views of each other ASAP. Eventually the male will need a minimum cage size of at least 2'x2'x4' tall, but preferably 4'x2'x4' tall or bigger. The female will eventually need a minimum cage size of either 2'x2'x4' tall or 36"x18"x36" tall, but preferably 4'x2'x4' tall or bigger, too. The female will need a proper lay bin, as well. Each cage needs veiled-tested live plants only (no fake plants, they're an impaction risk that can lead to death), branches of multiple species and diameters (no wood from toxic or sap-producing trees), and vines (preferably all live, but Fluker's can work, just no Exo Terra vines, moss vines, or fake vines with leaves on them). A drainage system under and outside of the cages will be needed, too.
  • Lighting - I use zoo med mini combo deep dome with zoo med 5.0 reptisun uvb and a zoo med daylight blue bulb 60 watt heat bulb That is the wrong type of heat and UVB bulbs. You can keep the double fixture and replace the UVB light in there with a plant light or leave that space empty. You want a plain white light incandescent bulb (plain ones from the hardware store are cheaper and work better if you can find them) for heat bulbs. The UVB needs to be a T5 High Output linear Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB bulb (preferably buy the fixture and bulb the length of the largest cages they'll ever be in). Again, not sure how much UVB babies that size need, but older/bigger babies should have the UVB bulb raised up off of the top of the cage by 4" and the basking branch in the cage 5" below the top, if you don't have a Solarmeter 6.5 to check, for the proper UVI levels of 3 at basking and 6 (the max that is safe) at the top.
  • Temperature - bottem of the cage is about 73 f and top of cage is 82.2 f I have a digital scale and a scale that came with them I don’t know the brand of either I'm sure if they're big/old enough for these basking temps yet, but the basking spot should be 80*F max for both right now (measured with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the tops of their backs are when they're on their basking branches) if needed. The female's basking spot should be 78-80*F her whole life, and the male's should be 80-85*F (many keepers do 80-82*F max) his whole life. Some more digital thermometers (with or without probes) or digital thermometer/hygrometer combos (with or without probes) need to be placed in the cage (at least 2, if not 3 as a minimum for each cage, one at the bottom, one in the middle, and one at/near basking if you use 3) to properly measure temps throughout the cages. What are your nighttime temps?
  • Humidity - You need digital hygrometers (with or without probes) or digital thermometer/hygrometer combos (with or without probes) (the amounts and places I said) to measure humidity levels throughout the cage and during the day and night. It should be 30-50% during the day (preferably on the lower end of that scale), and if there's enough airflow and the temps are at or below 65*F at night, it can go up to 100% at night. You could do that up to 67*F, but it'll be pushing it.
  • Plants - I have a live tree in there I don’t know the kind my buddy sold me this cage after his female got stuck egg and died Where the cage and plants properly disinfected before putting these new chams in it? Veiled chams need veiled-tested live plants only. Every plant needs to be properly cleaned off, repotted into organic soil with no chemical fertilizers, and have rock too big for chams to eat covering the soil beforehand.
  • Placement - the cage is in my room by my door I barely go in here besides to get close and feed my other Reptile’s or go to sleep. I might turn a fan in during the summer but not any other time and I don’t have vents in my room. The cage is sitting on my floor as of right now getting a stand in the mail soon. The higher up the cages are, the safer the chams will feel.
  • Location - Tennessee

Current Problem - Not eating is a light gray and is very ashy

I get 1/8’’ crickets and for them and I pick out the smallest of my small super worms for them to eat

another note these are not my person chams but I am trying to help them being them to good health

Here's the links and images (remember to tell the owners to read through every module and the veiled species profile, as well as listening to as many podcast episodes as possible, from The Chameleon Academy):
Click to expand...
Thank you for the very useful information and links I will get this to him ASAP
 
kinyonga said:
The insects look too big for him. Can you not get some small crickets at a pet store near you?

Do you have a big clear Tupperware type container you could put him in until you get another cage? Set it up with no lid....with branches, plants, etc so he can't reach the top and climb out. You need a UVB long linear tube light for him too....and one for he female too.

I don't think he going to live long if you don't get things straightened out very quickly.
Click to expand...
I have been having a hard time finding small crickets at pet stores near me due to COVID and he is pooping he pooped on me
 
How do make sure he is eating I got to go for the night but I will try and reply in the morning thank you everybody for the information I will get them separated as soon as I can into a large container do you think a ten gallon tank will work for until he gets the other cage in and if it does what would you suggest putting in it. Also where do I get the long uvb lights all the pet stores we go to offer only small ones like in the picture the pet stores near me are not great
 
You can order the lights online, Amazon is a great place to find them as for the crickets try rainbowmealworms.com or joshsfrogs.com
i think the ten gallon would be okay for short term and maybe just put a plant or two in it for him to climb on. Do you have a screen lid for it? Be careful with any lights using the 10 gallon because it will heat up quick and I don’t know how you’d use the uvb light in that situation. You’ll have to probably have the lights lifted up off the top of the 10 gallon so he doesn’t get burned because he will likely climb onto the screen lid of it.
 
If they are separated you will know if he’s eating or not. Count how many flightless fruit flies or crickets you put in there and then count how many are left when you check on him later. That’s how you can tell. Obviously you can’t tell if they’re in the same cage.
 
How safe would it be to keep plastic plants that have been disinfected in there with him in the ten gallon he bought the chams on the Instinct not knowing what he was doing and does not really have money to buy real plants atm or should I go out side and get some plants from a garden that has not been sprayed also how do I set this tank up for him I don’t have a lid for it it was going to be set up for a gecko so I don’t have much stuff for him but I do have paper towels for the bottom or coconut fiber should I put sticks in there I have a heat light for him but no uvb he is order the better lights for them but won’t be in for a few days
 
If you have no UVB then can you get him some real sunlight?
No coconut fiber. Fake plants might be ok for a few days. You need some branches too. They shouldn't have a hot basking area at that age.
How will you provide water?
 
kinyonga said:
If you have no UVB then can you get him some real sunlight?
No coconut fiber. Fake plants might be ok for a few days. You need some branches too. They shouldn't have a hot basking area at that age.
How will you provide water?
Click to expand...
So I’m going to be home for the next few days so I am going to spray his cage hourly but he has gotten very very weak he reacts to being sprayed with water but only moves a little bit and I got small fruit flys but he don’t seem interested at this point I’m thinking of force feeding but don’t know how to atm but I did see you could use vegi baby food which I already have at the house I have gotten him in the ten gallon by him self I don’t think he has much longer

very wrinkly don’t move unless sprayed and not interested in food
 
Baby food should be to attract the fruit flies, not the Cham. Im So sorry he’s so weak. He may be past help now. Is he sitting on a branch or on the floor of his tank?
 
Lindasjackson said:
Baby food should be to attract the fruit flies, not the Cham. Im So sorry he’s so weak. He may be past help now. Is he sitting on a branch or on the floor of his tank?
Click to expand...
Where I put him last he usually just stays there do you think force feeding is an option or am I just out of luck
 
What is it, and how will you be administering it? Chameleons' airways are the front of their mouths, so making sure you don't get any food or water in their lungs when force-feeding is crucial
 
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