phantomchameleon
Established Member
Mine is a 10.0. So that would double the distance?
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Theveiled
Avid Member
A 10.0 is really only recommended for highly planted areas, but since your cham has mbd it may have added benefits but I am not exactly sure. I only use a 5.0 so I do not know the distance for a 10.0. Maybe someone who uses a 10.0 can tell you.
Remkon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Not sure 10.0 is same distance as 5.0 as it is designed for reptiles that have a demand for more UVB... If you go further away from the lamp than the recommended distance the UVB values degrade pretty rapidly.
You can google this, there are various sites that have measured the various types and brands of the lamps.
For the sake of your chameleon I hope you start taking proper care of her, stop messing with the enclosure and the interior as it changes he surroundings and that causes stress. Stop handling her, she needs rest and stability.
I'm sure you wont follow up on this as you have neglected to with a lot of good advise before.
For the record I keep trying to help for the sake of your chameleon, if I was helping you I would have given up a long time ago.
You can google this, there are various sites that have measured the various types and brands of the lamps.
For the sake of your chameleon I hope you start taking proper care of her, stop messing with the enclosure and the interior as it changes he surroundings and that causes stress. Stop handling her, she needs rest and stability.
I'm sure you wont follow up on this as you have neglected to with a lot of good advise before.
For the record I keep trying to help for the sake of your chameleon, if I was helping you I would have given up a long time ago.
phantomchameleon
Established Member
Should i put a feeder in there? I dont know if she's ready to eat on her own yet. I put the branches a little higher just so she gets the UVB and that's all im going to adjust.
Edit: Im getting alot of conflicting advice. One says put the branches higher and create shade, other says to stop messing with the interior, I can't feed her if i don't handle her, what exactly am i supposed to do?
Nursemaia
Chameleon Enthusiast
Only handle her to feed her. The UVB won't do her any good if she can't reach it. The branches need to be high enough for her to be able to bask and absorb the rays. 10.0 bulbs are meant for desert reptiles and if you plan on using it add more coverage so she can move out of the rays if they get to be too much for her. Fix her enclosure so it's appropriate and then quit messing with it.
WAMBO
Chameleon Enthusiast
Not put branches higher, move light higher [which may be easier then moving branches lower, especially in a small cage], away from cage to widen space, as others have posted, AND make shade, which is suggested by the owner of Light Your Reptiles.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/thr...in-the-cage-that-matters.153747/#post-1310697
Ad'z
New Member
Ummm this uvb thing.... Now I've been told that a uvb 10 bulb is for a veiled and uvb 5 for panther's (not sure about other chameleons) and if you have a screen cage and a you need a uvb 10 as the screen/mesh takes away a lot of the uvb. The number of the bulb represents the percentage of uvb being emitted from it e.g a 10 is 10% and a 5 is 5% and so on. What do most people use with there veileds on here?
Extensionofgreen
Chameleon Enthusiast
My advice for feeding is to allow her to go 2 days with NO handling or feeding and then introduce some feeders. If she doesn't eat, remove them and try again. If she hasn't eaten in 4-5 days of NO handling, then resume feeding.
The artificial diet she has been on is not ideal and coupled with inadequate hydration, which is virtually assured if you don't have an automated misting system, the vitamins and components of the artificial diet cause stress to the kidneys and other organs.
The sooner you get her eating a normal diet, with proper gutloading, supplementation, a proper set-up with proper temperatures and lighting, and reduce her stress ( handling, force feeding, vet trips.... ), the sooner you will have an animal that exhibits good health and that may potentially be more apt to tolerate handling. You have all the tools you need, given in a very easy to follow caresheet on the forum, as well as google, and you need to stop seeking individual advice for basic care and simply institute it. Ignorance is a choice in the Information Age and you need to do some reading and absorb the information to understand what your animal needs. Spoon feeding you the basic details makes you apathetic and isn't getting through to you the where for and whys of basic chameleon care and it's causing lots of patient people to lose pateience and it's caused the situation with the chameleon's health. Perhaps linebreeding has 0.5% to do with the equation, but inevitably, the biggest and most contributing factor is the lack of satisfactory care and a basic understanding on your part of chameleon physiology, husbandry, and health. All that information is there for you and has always been, and has even been spoon fed to you by many of us, so follow the caresheet, come back after a few weeks of following what we've said and impress us with your change of attitude and competence towards your animal's health and best of the all, the improved health of this long suffering chameleon.
The artificial diet she has been on is not ideal and coupled with inadequate hydration, which is virtually assured if you don't have an automated misting system, the vitamins and components of the artificial diet cause stress to the kidneys and other organs.
The sooner you get her eating a normal diet, with proper gutloading, supplementation, a proper set-up with proper temperatures and lighting, and reduce her stress ( handling, force feeding, vet trips.... ), the sooner you will have an animal that exhibits good health and that may potentially be more apt to tolerate handling. You have all the tools you need, given in a very easy to follow caresheet on the forum, as well as google, and you need to stop seeking individual advice for basic care and simply institute it. Ignorance is a choice in the Information Age and you need to do some reading and absorb the information to understand what your animal needs. Spoon feeding you the basic details makes you apathetic and isn't getting through to you the where for and whys of basic chameleon care and it's causing lots of patient people to lose pateience and it's caused the situation with the chameleon's health. Perhaps linebreeding has 0.5% to do with the equation, but inevitably, the biggest and most contributing factor is the lack of satisfactory care and a basic understanding on your part of chameleon physiology, husbandry, and health. All that information is there for you and has always been, and has even been spoon fed to you by many of us, so follow the caresheet, come back after a few weeks of following what we've said and impress us with your change of attitude and competence towards your animal's health and best of the all, the improved health of this long suffering chameleon.
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For a young veiled I would recommend a 5% or 6%. As they get over a year I switch to a 12% but again, it is densely planted.
kelly_girl199
Avid Member
How's about someone flipping ban him. LOOK you don't give a crap about what people are trying to tell you. They have been at far longer than you. Therefore, they know there crap. You need to stick her in her cage, and not touch her unless to feed her. I've had to force meds, and I never did while holding them. You can grip from behind the jaws, wiggle the syringe in from the side or just put a dallop of food on the end of her nose. And holly crap yes that thing would be better off at the vet than with you any day. I for one am tired of seeing all your posts very much abusing your animal. Listen to people and stop messing with her. Or don't get on here and annoy the living tar out of people. If attention is what you seek, Facebook is a great place.
phantomchameleon
Established Member
None of these statements are valid now as she's much better than before and if you actually read anything that i've said in the post you would know that i've been taking everything into account.
phantomchameleon
Established Member
He gained some weight so he's not 60 grams anymore. Not actually sure how much he weighs though.Could we have some pic updates?
RandellTheCham
Established Member
Dem feet doe
Angelwolf
Chameleon Enthusiast
First of all, you have been instructed to leave the poor animal alone! Why are you handling it again?! And what's with the cup of water? Chameleons do not like to be handled! Some may tolerate it, and seem happy, but in their mind, they are scared to death! Put the poor thing back into it's cage, and leave it alone! Or better yet, perhaps you should find it a new home and try a hamster.
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
Sorry, your update pics are proof that not EVERYTHING has been "taken into account". You wrote that your cham is back home because you missed her so much. That's yet another upset and change for her to deal with. You are STILL handling and stressing out a sick cham in order to please yourself. You have your own opinion about what this poor animal needs and no one can convince you otherwise. Well, when your cham declines and passes make sure you think hard and honestly about who's responsible. Its all we can suggest at this point.
phantomchameleon
Established Member
because he's just gotten fatter? You can't see his ribs as much as before and i was giving him a shower at the time. No not an actual shower. I put him on a plant and let the mist go on him and the leaves. That was the first time i've handled him in 5 days. he climbed in to the cup WILLINGLY off the plant and thats when i took this picture. He had no problems with me. He didn't gape, he didn't hiss, he didn't close his eyes, he didn't change color, nothing.
@Carlton "You are STILL handling and stressing out a sick cham in order to please yourself." Yeah no. Read the above.
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