Baby Raising help..
- Thread starter Kay930
- Start date
Welcome to the forum!
At that age feed it as much as it will eat in a couple of minutes at each feeding... but make sure the crickets are gutloaded and well fed and of an appropriate size...the length of the width between the chameleon's eyes.
For gutloading/feeding the crickets I use dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, carrots, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, squash, zucchini and a very small amount of berries, apples, pears, melon, papaya.
For dusting the insects...it's recommended that at most feedings you use a phos free calcium powder dusted lightly on the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon. Twice a month use a phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly and twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. Using a vitamin powder with a prOformed source of vitamin A instead of a prEformed source is safe and leaves it in your control to use the ptEformed vitamin A if your chameleon shows signs of needing it. PrEformed vitaminA can build up in the system and lead to health issues. Using the D3 only twice a month ensures that the chameleon gets some without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB that you provide for it. D3 from supplements can build up in the chameleons system and lead to health issues.
For UVB I use the long linear Reptisun 5.0 tube light.i don't use basking lights on baby chameleons...they only need a temperature of 80 or 81F IMHO.
To tell its sex...look at the back heels...if there is a tarsal spur it should be a male...if not its female.
https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/glossary/tarsalspur.html
Soon you should replace the fake plants with real nontoxic well washed, bothe sides of the leaves. Veileds often munch on leaves and you don't want it to become impacted from teying to eat fake ones.
Also...if it's a female, it can produce eggs without mating once it's sexually mature and you will want to watch how much you feed it and the temperatures you keep it at so it won't have reproductive issues, etc.
At that age feed it as much as it will eat in a couple of minutes at each feeding... but make sure the crickets are gutloaded and well fed and of an appropriate size...the length of the width between the chameleon's eyes.
For gutloading/feeding the crickets I use dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, carrots, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, squash, zucchini and a very small amount of berries, apples, pears, melon, papaya.
For dusting the insects...it's recommended that at most feedings you use a phos free calcium powder dusted lightly on the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon. Twice a month use a phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly and twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. Using a vitamin powder with a prOformed source of vitamin A instead of a prEformed source is safe and leaves it in your control to use the ptEformed vitamin A if your chameleon shows signs of needing it. PrEformed vitaminA can build up in the system and lead to health issues. Using the D3 only twice a month ensures that the chameleon gets some without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB that you provide for it. D3 from supplements can build up in the chameleons system and lead to health issues.
For UVB I use the long linear Reptisun 5.0 tube light.i don't use basking lights on baby chameleons...they only need a temperature of 80 or 81F IMHO.
To tell its sex...look at the back heels...if there is a tarsal spur it should be a male...if not its female.
https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/glossary/tarsalspur.html
Soon you should replace the fake plants with real nontoxic well washed, bothe sides of the leaves. Veileds often munch on leaves and you don't want it to become impacted from teying to eat fake ones.
Also...if it's a female, it can produce eggs without mating once it's sexually mature and you will want to watch how much you feed it and the temperatures you keep it at so it won't have reproductive issues, etc.
Last edited:
Kay930
Member
Me too! It's freaking me out when he does it lol I think I'm going to set up the exo terra for tonight and figure out the tub thing tomorrow.
Kay930
Member
Regarding females - I have an older female Veiled that I should make a post on regarding temps and feeds. Which forum would be ideal for that?
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
I lived in the FL Keys and used a 25 watt bulb. I also hung the lights over the bins. Did you check out my pictures in the link I gave you above.
Kay930
Member
I did. I'm going to try and replicate the tub tomorrow when Home Depot opens. Also grab some brackets so I can mount tue lights.
Kay930
Member
What did you use to make the jungle gym?
Kay930
Member
Wooden skewers with the sharp point removed, wooden dowels, large and small popsicle sticks...and hold it together with hot glue. Arts and crafts
Oh I have the skewers on hand. And a glue gun. My mantis habitat building will come in handy.
Kay930
Member
I feel awful having so many questions but happy to be learning.
With the heat lights- do babies need heat overnight? My house never goes under 72 but I don't know if that's too cold for Roger.
AmandaS
Retired Moderator
Questions is how we learn. Thats what we are all here for. They do not need heat overnight, a nighttime temperature drop is good.
I'd try the general forum.
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
Shish Kabob sticks and hot glue.
Kay930
Member
I can add fake plants until I can get back to Home Depot later today. Maybe some creeping jenny for now since they're smaller and able to fit in the tub.
Will also grab some thermometer combos at Petco today.
Should I free range some crickets (small pin heads that came in today for my mantids) or should I try cup feeding?
AmandaS
Retired Moderator
Yeah, if you have a cup go ahead and try that! It would be nice if baby would take to it. Easier for clean up and keeping track of food intake. If baby won't cup feed yet, dont be too detered. Free range is how I feed mine for the first 2.5 months. My Mushu is just starting to accept feeder runs.
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