Hi and welcome. 
I’ll be putting my feedback in bold.
Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, unsure of the sex - thinking male because there is a bulge under the tail but I don’t note any spurs present.
Males will have tarsal spurs. If you post some pics of his back feet, we can confirm gender. Thinking he is about a month old because of his size. I’ve had him since last Saturday.
Handling - 1-2 times per day. He actually likes being held and will sleep on my chest or shoulder.
I hate to tell you this, but he should not be having his eyes closed at any time during the day. If he’s doing it while you’re holding him, it most likely means that he has become so stressed that he has just shut down and given up and is waiting to be eaten/die. I only have him out of the enclosure for about 45 minutes at a time.
Try not to handle him so much for now.
Feeding - Small crickets. He usually eats 4 small crickets per day.
If he is as young as you say, he should be getting way more than that to eat. Chams younger than 4 months should be given all they can eat in a 15-20 minute period, twice a day. Perhaps the crickets are too big? Anything larger than the space between the eyes he can’t manage. You may need to order smaller feeders on line. He gets fed in the morning right now. He seems to be most awake in the morning. I’m gut loading with store bought cricket food and hydration.
Usually the commercial cricket diets available at chain pet stores aren’t good for more than hydrating. More on this later. Today, 11/24, he was not super interested in eating.
Not good. He did eat at least 2 crickets.
Supplements - He was purchased from petsmart and they stated they were not doing any type of supplements.
Not good. I’ve started him on zoo med repti calcium without vitamin D - he gets this daily. Zoo med retivite with vitamin D twice per month is the plan.
Perfect! I also plan to do bee pollen daily, just need to order some.
I’m going to suggest NOT giving the bee pollen. Anecdotally causes edema. Is better to give to your insect feeders and have them pass it on to your cham.
Watering - Misting 2-3x per day for about 30 seconds. I mist until everything is basically saturated and dripping.
Usually we suggest misting for 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day. Bought a dripper just need to hang it and cut a whole on the screen to put the tubing through.
You’ll only want to use the dripper for about 20 minutes around mid day and instead of the 3rd misting. He drank from my fingers today and that is the first time I’ve seen him take in any water.
Many chameleons are very secretive about drinking.
Fecal Description - I have not seen any dropping since having him. This Saturday will be a week of no droppings. I’m a little concerned by this. I have read that sometimes when they first come home they may not poop for 2 weeks. Correct me if I’m wrong.
He needs to poop.
History - No history that I’m aware of.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen enclosure wrapped with a shower curtain around 3 sides to trap the humidity. 30 in x 16 in
Irregardless of gender, your chameleon will be needing much larger than this as it grows into an adult. The minimum for an adult is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. I’m all for giving them larger if you can.
Lighting - Basking light - zoo med daylight blue bulb 60w, - uva, heat, daylight. UVB - zoo med reptisun T5 HO 5.0 UVB fluorescent lamp, 22 inches in the zoo med reptisun T5 hood. Lights are on for 12-13 hours.
All sounds good. No lights or heat at night.
Temperature - Basking area is 90-92.
Too hot! Needs to come down to about 80. I advise raising the lights off of the screen top by several inches, which will help reduce your temps. Babies screen walk along the top and can easily get burned. Your uvb should be about 8-9” above your basking area for optimal range. Cage floor is 64-68. I have a thermometer and the top under the basking lamp and one at the bottom of the cage. As of now guessing the lowest overnight temp is anywhere from 68-70.
Nice. We have the house set at 72.
Humidity - I’ve been struggling with the humidity levels. It is anywhere from 30-50%.
That is exactly the range that you want. Veileds like and need it a bit drier. We are trying very hard to keep it at 50% at all times. We have a fogger and humidifier running 24/7 to maintain the humidity.
No! Never run a humidifier during the day when temps are high…increases risks for respiratory infections. As your night time temps are below 70, you can run the humidifier at night and boost humidity all the way up. That simulates natural hydration gotten from fog. We have also wrapped the cage with plastic shower curtains to maintain the humidity. We have a hygrometer at the top of the cage. As of now there are two medium size Pothos in the enclosure. There are two fake plants on either side to help with coverage until the Pothos get bigger.
More live plants. No fake ones. I suggest getting a taller center plant like a schefflera or weeping fig.
Placement - Cage is located in our spare bedroom. Not a high foot traffic area. Door is cracked to keep the room warm. No fans, heat vent near the enclosure. We have about 9 ft ceilings and the top of the enclosure is about 4 feet from the ceiling.
Very nice. Height = safety.
Location - Midwest Illinois
Current Problem - He keeps them closed to little slits 90% of the time.
Not good and not normal. He also does this thing were he like sucks the eyeball in and then bulges out his eyelids in the corner.
Is normal way that they clean their eyes. I tried my best at explaining that. I don’t know if his eyes are dry or if he might have an infection. I also want to add that I have seen him a couple of times when holding him, he will rub his eyes against my shirt like he’s itching his eyes.
I also feel like he sleeps a ton. Is that normal for baby chameleons?
Not normal and is sign of sickness.
Also, what is an affordable grow light you use for your real plants that are safe for a chameleon?
I’m a fan of Sansi and use their 70w primarily, although I do have some of their 36w bulbs too. On sale now. https://www.sansiled.com/pages/deals
To be continued….
