Baby Cham with eye problems

[WorryWartHerper]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Vailed Cham, 8.2 grams, juvenile, unknown sex, has been in my care for about 2 weeks.
• Handling - Only when administering meds.
• Feeding - bearded dragon/ crested gecko powdered diet mixed together and force fed/hydrate twice daily. And I feed them as many small gut loaded-bee pollen/Calcium dusted crickets that they are willing to eat when they can see. I gut load with a verity of fresh fruits and veggies. Right now I have kale, collard greens, Romain lettuce, carrots, and blueberries but I switch it up when I run out.
• Supplements - Fluckers phosphorus free calcium, ZooMed Reptivit, BioDude Bee pollen. I’ve also recently dosed them with 1/5th cc of vitamin A as I believe they are deficient.
• Watering - I mist them 30 minutes before lights go on and 30 minutes after lights go off. They do not drink however, and frantically runs around the cage. They seem to get all their hydration from syringe feedings.
• Fecal Description - They have only pooped twice in my care. The first was small with little urate that was yellow. The second time was a few days ago and it was much larger, less yellow, and a tad bit runny. They have not been tested for parasites.
• History - I work at a small pet store and a customer came in asking if anyone would be willing to take her chameleon because she was unable to care for him. From my understanding she had him in a ten gallon tank with plastic plants and reptibark for substrate. She did not have any hydrometers or thermometers and only had a small water bowl. The poor thing was emaciated, dehydrated, and I imagine very close to death. They were originally unable to see at all but after some much needed care (mostly hydration and eye flushing stuck shed) they are able to open their left eye but the right is still tightly closed.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Because he is so small and unable to see (and that I was unprepared to take on a Cham) I have them in a 12X12X12 Front opening zoomed tank.
• Lighting - Zoomed compact UVB (I have a tub light UVB on the way) and 60 watt day bulb with temp control thermostat.
• Temperature - they have a basking spot of 85 degrees with the lowest day temps at 70 towards the bottom. Night temps range from 70-75. I measure with a heat gun.
• Humidity - Day humidity stays at about 55 with misting about 2 to 3 times a day. Night time stays at 70-80 percent.
• Plants - Fake silk plants, heavily placed throughout so he can find something to grab onto when bumbling around.
• Placement - We have them set up in a separate-temperature controlled reptile room, where we keep the rest of our 15 exotics. We check on him and the other animals several times a day.
• Location - Southeastern Oklahoma

Current Problem - my main concern is their right eye that has shown little improvement since I’ve had them. They are mostly out of the woods - putting on weight, eating by themselves, (when able)and overall has a strong will to live but I worry if I can’t get their eyes working then they will either die of starvation or aspersion when force feeding. What are your suggestions for treatment? I am hydrating them and treating any infection/debris with antibiotic eyedrops. I’ve also recently dosed him with some liquid vitamin A.

What should be the expected time frame for recovery and am I overdoing it?



————se Note:

1. I’ve taken them to the vet but they didn’t have much experience in reptiles and were only able to prescribe antibiotic eyedrops.
2. I’ve had success in rehabbing snakes, Leopard geckos, and bearded dragons but this is my first chameleon and I worry that I’m not fulfilling his complicated needs.
3. They are able to open their left eye periodically but not for very long. Usually only enough to get their bearings.
4. The brown bits around its mouth is from the mixture I feed them. Thank you for your knowledge and aid!
   
   
   

 

[MissSkittles]

Oh dear…poor baby! Give me a little bit of time and I’ll go thru your husbandry and do what I can to offer some help.

 

[MissSkittles]

Breaking this down into two parts because I talk a lot.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Vailed Cham, 8.2 grams, juvenile, unknown sex, has been in my care for about 2 weeks.
• Handling - Only when administering meds.
• Feeding - bearded dragon/ crested gecko powdered diet mixed together and force fed/hydrate twice daily. And I feed them as many small gut loaded-bee pollen/Calcium dusted crickets that they are willing to eat when they can see. You’ll want to continue to encourage little one to eat bugs. Better than giving the beardie/crestie diet, try this. https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/bug-juice.html Even just mashing up straight bugs and mixing with enough water to make a slurry would be okay. I gut load with a verity of fresh fruits and veggies. Right now I have kale, collard greens, Romain lettuce, carrots, and blueberries but I switch it up when I run out. I’ll say to drop the kale and romaine. I feed my bugs the same stuff I make my beardie salads with.
• Supplements - Fluckers phosphorus free calcium, ZooMed Reptivit, Is that Reptivite with D3 or not? BioDude Bee pollen Is much better to give the bee pollen to the feeders. I’ve also recently dosed them with 1/5th cc of vitamin A as I believe they are deficient. Be very careful with vitamin A. There’s a fat soluble type that can build up to toxic levels. I don’t think little one’s problem is his/her eyes. I do think it’s general bad husbandry.
• Watering - I mist them 30 minutes before lights go on and 30 minutes after lights go off. They do not drink however, and frantically runs around the cage. They seem to get all their hydration from syringe feedings. Are you misting baby or baby’s plants? Mist the plants gently and then leave him/her. Many chams are secretive drinkers. Use room temp water only.
• Fecal Description - They have only pooped twice in my care. The first was small with little urate that was yellow. The second time was a few days ago and it was much larger, less yellow, and a tad bit runny. They have not been tested for parasites. Definitely want to get a parasite check.
• History - I work at a small pet store and a customer came in asking if anyone would be willing to take her chameleon because she was unable to care for him. From my understanding she had him in a ten gallon tank with plastic plants and reptibark for substrate. She did not have any hydrometers or thermometers and only had a small water bowl. The poor thing was emaciated, dehydrated, and I imagine very close to death. They were originally unable to see at all but after some much needed care (mostly hydration and eye flushing stuck shed) they are able to open their left eye but the right is still tightly closed. Poor poor baby. Bless you for taking the little one and trying to bring it back to health. I believe the main problem is that baby had such poor care and it’s needs weren’t even close to being met. Babies have zero resources to fall back on so having even the smallest thing wrong for them can be fatal.
  To be continued….

 

[Chameleonfriend10]

Hello don’t quote me on this but my chameleon has given me health issues and one of them was eye problems I do not recommend any after market products Becuase of chemicals but I used warm water and a cotton swab to clean his eyes . Worked perfect and my chameleon didn’t give me that problem again .

 

[Chameleonfriend10]

Hello don’t quote me on this but my chameleon has given me health issues and one of them was eye problems I do not recommend any after market products Becuase of chemicals but I used warm water and a cotton swab to clean his eyes . Worked perfect and my chameleon didn’t give me that problem again .

I’m pretty sure he can push through it I don’t recommend infencting the area more . More of a natural remedy like give him or her time . No contact since there is a lot of germs being transmitted

 

[MissSkittles]

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Because he is so small and unable to see (and that I was unprepared to take on a Cham) I have them in a 12X12X12 Front opening zoomed tank. This is a good ‘hospital’ enclosure for a baby. However, as he gets to feeling better and growing he’ll be needing at least a 2x2x4’ or equivalent.
• Lighting - Zoomed compact UVB (I have a tub light UVB on the way) and 60 watt day bulb with temp control thermostat. With the screw in uvb bulbs, they only provide the needed levels at a distance of 2-3”. However, you don’t want to blast baby with uvb. The ideal is a linear T5 fixture with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. You’ll need to suspend it over the top of the small enclosure so that the distance is 8-9” from basking area to light, but also if possible give a small area of no/low uvb so baby has a way to escape for a while if he wants. Giving a plant with nice big leaves to hide under will do the same. Maybe also have the uvb on for only 6-8 days hours a day too.
• Temperature - they have a basking spot of 85 degrees with the lowest day temps at 70 towards the bottom. Too hot for a baby. Keep basking temp at no higher than 80. Night temps range from 70-75. I measure with a heat gun.
• Humidity - Day humidity stays at about 55 with misting about 2 to 3 times a day. Night time stays at 70-80 percent. Too high. For daytime you want between 30-50%. At night you only want an increase if the temp can get below 68-70.
• Plants - Fake silk plants, heavily placed throughout so he can find something to grab onto when bumbling around. After getting a clean fecal, start switching out the fake for real. Veileds nibble their plants, and it only takes one bite of a fake one to cause a bowel obstruction. Pothos is awesome for chams.
• Placement - We have them set up in a separate-temperature controlled reptile room, where we keep the rest of our 15 exotics. We check on him and the other animals several times a day.
• Location - Southeastern Oklahoma

Current Problem - my main concern is their right eye that has shown little improvement since I’ve had them. They are mostly out of the woods - putting on weight, eating by themselves, (when able)and overall has a strong will to live but I worry if I can’t get their eyes working then they will either die of starvation or aspersion when force feeding. What are your suggestions for treatment? I am hydrating them and treating any infection/debris with antibiotic eyedrops. I’ve also recently dosed him with some liquid vitamin A. I forgot to say in part one that Reptivite has preformed vitamin A. That’s the fat soluble type so you really don’t want to give any more vitamin A.
It’s most likely just going to take a good amount of time to get baby up to 100% health. From what you describe of his previous conditions, almost none of his needs were being met and he was as close to the point of no return as he could be. For the most part, your husbandry is great. Just make the few changes I pointed out. Setting up the uvb will be the tricky part as you don’t want to bake him. @jannb or @JacksJill may have some better advice on setting up the uvb.
Cham husbandry is a bit different than other reptiles, but since you have a solid knowledge base for them, you’ll do great. The most current standards of husbandry and basically all correct things of chameleons can be found here. https://chameleonacademy.com/ Check out the podcasts too. They are so informative. Of course, ask as many questions here that you need and please share your sweet baby’s progress.

What should be the expected time frame for recovery and am I overdoing it?



————se Note:

1. I’ve taken them to the vet but they didn’t have much experience in reptiles and were only able to prescribe antibiotic eyedrops.
2. I’ve had success in rehabbing snakes, Leopard geckos, and bearded dragons but this is my first chameleon and I worry that I’m not fulfilling his complicated needs.
3. They are able to open their left eye periodically but not for very long. Usually only enough to get their bearings.
4. The brown bits around its mouth is from the mixture I feed them. Thank you for your knowledge and aid!

 

[JacksJill]

That eye may require antibiotic drops or even treatment for an ulcer. If you don't continue to see improvement then a vet visit will be necessary. I would switch to a powdered cricket formula for feeding that is made for body builders. It is nothing but crickets. I don't know what is in the diets you are feeding but you may risk over supplementing them if the diets are fortified. With the cricket powder you can supplement as you would normally.

 

[WorryWartHerper]

Breaking this down into two parts because I talk a lot.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Vailed Cham, 8.2 grams, juvenile, unknown sex, has been in my care for about 2 weeks.
• Handling - Only when administering meds.
• Feeding - bearded dragon/ crested gecko powdered diet mixed together and force fed/hydrate twice daily. And I feed them as many small gut loaded-bee pollen/Calcium dusted crickets that they are willing to eat when they can see. You’ll want to continue to encourage little one to eat bugs. Better than giving the beardie/crestie diet, try this. https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/bug-juice.html Even just mashing up straight bugs and mixing with enough water to make a slurry would be okay. I gut load with a verity of fresh fruits and veggies. Right now I have kale, collard greens, Romain lettuce, carrots, and blueberries but I switch it up when I run out. I’ll say to drop the kale and romaine. I feed my bugs the same stuff I make my beardie salads with.
• Supplements - Fluckers phosphorus free calcium, ZooMed Reptivit, Is that Reptivite with D3 or not? BioDude Bee pollen Is much better to give the bee pollen to the feeders. I’ve also recently dosed them with 1/5th cc of vitamin A as I believe they are deficient. Be very careful with vitamin A. There’s a fat soluble type that can build up to toxic levels. I don’t think little one’s problem is his/her eyes. I do think it’s general bad husbandry.
• Watering - I mist them 30 minutes before lights go on and 30 minutes after lights go off. They do not drink however, and frantically runs around the cage. They seem to get all their hydration from syringe feedings. Are you misting baby or baby’s plants? Mist the plants gently and then leave him/her. Many chams are secretive drinkers. Use room temp water only.
• Fecal Description - They have only pooped twice in my care. The first was small with little urate that was yellow. The second time was a few days ago and it was much larger, less yellow, and a tad bit runny. They have not been tested for parasites. Definitely want to get a parasite check.
• History - I work at a small pet store and a customer came in asking if anyone would be willing to take her chameleon because she was unable to care for him. From my understanding she had him in a ten gallon tank with plastic plants and reptibark for substrate. She did not have any hydrometers or thermometers and only had a small water bowl. The poor thing was emaciated, dehydrated, and I imagine very close to death. They were originally unable to see at all but after some much needed care (mostly hydration and eye flushing stuck shed) they are able to open their left eye but the right is still tightly closed. Poor poor baby. Bless you for taking the little one and trying to bring it back to health. I believe the main problem is that baby had such poor care and it’s needs weren’t even close to being met. Babies have zero resources to fall back on so having even the smallest thing wrong for them can be fatal.
  To be continued….

Thank you for all you’re wonderful advice! The reptivit is with D3 but I have calcium without. I gave them the vitamins mixed in with the prepared diets the first two days but now I just use the regular mixture and dust crickets with calcium when I offer them. I keep the bee pollen in my cricket container so I’m sure they are eating it along with dusting themselves. I mostly spray around them but I do try to stay them towards the end to try and help with their eyes. I have a fine mist pump sprayer that I keep near my beardes lights so it’s warm. I just want to give this little guy the best fighting chance.

 

[WorryWartHerper]

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Because he is so small and unable to see (and that I was unprepared to take on a Cham) I have them in a 12X12X12 Front opening zoomed tank. This is a good ‘hospital’ enclosure for a baby. However, as he gets to feeling better and growing he’ll be needing at least a 2x2x4’ or equivalent.
• Lighting - Zoomed compact UVB (I have a tub light UVB on the way) and 60 watt day bulb with temp control thermostat. With the screw in uvb bulbs, they only provide the needed levels at a distance of 2-3”. However, you don’t want to blast baby with uvb. The ideal is a linear T5 fixture with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. You’ll need to suspend it over the top of the small enclosure so that the distance is 8-9” from basking area to light, but also if possible give a small area of no/low uvb so baby has a way to escape for a while if he wants. Giving a plant with nice big leaves to hide under will do the same. Maybe also have the uvb on for only 6-8 days hours a day too.
• Temperature - they have a basking spot of 85 degrees with the lowest day temps at 70 towards the bottom. Too hot for a baby. Keep basking temp at no higher than 80. Night temps range from 70-75. I measure with a heat gun.
• Humidity - Day humidity stays at about 55 with misting about 2 to 3 times a day. Night time stays at 70-80 percent. Too high. For daytime you want between 30-50%. At night you only want an increase if the temp can get below 68-70.
• Plants - Fake silk plants, heavily placed throughout so he can find something to grab onto when bumbling around. After getting a clean fecal, start switching out the fake for real. Veileds nibble their plants, and it only takes one bite of a fake one to cause a bowel obstruction. Pothos is awesome for chams.
• Placement - We have them set up in a separate-temperature controlled reptile room, where we keep the rest of our 15 exotics. We check on him and the other animals several times a day.
• Location - Southeastern Oklahoma

Current Problem - my main concern is their right eye that has shown little improvement since I’ve had them. They are mostly out of the woods - putting on weight, eating by themselves, (when able)and overall has a strong will to live but I worry if I can’t get their eyes working then they will either die of starvation or aspersion when force feeding. What are your suggestions for treatment? I am hydrating them and treating any infection/debris with antibiotic eyedrops. I’ve also recently dosed him with some liquid vitamin A. I forgot to say in part one that Reptivite has preformed vitamin A. That’s the fat soluble type so you really don’t want to give any more vitamin A.
It’s most likely just going to take a good amount of time to get baby up to 100% health. From what you describe of his previous conditions, almost none of his needs were being met and he was as close to the point of no return as he could be. For the most part, your husbandry is great. Just make the few changes I pointed out. Setting up the uvb will be the tricky part as you don’t want to bake him. @jannb or @JacksJill may have some better advice on setting up the uvb.
Cham husbandry is a bit different than other reptiles, but since you have a solid knowledge base for them, you’ll do great. The most current standards of husbandry and basically all correct things of chameleons can be found here. https://chameleonacademy.com/ Check out the podcasts too. They are so informative. Of course, ask as many questions here that you need and please share your sweet baby’s progress.

What should be the expected time frame for recovery and am I overdoing it?



————se Note:

1. I’ve taken them to the vet but they didn’t have much experience in reptiles and were only able to prescribe antibiotic eyedrops.
2. I’ve had success in rehabbing snakes, Leopard geckos, and bearded dragons but this is my first chameleon and I worry that I’m not fulfilling his complicated needs.
3. They are able to open their left eye periodically but not for very long. Usually only enough to get their bearings.
4. The brown bits around its mouth is from the mixture I feed them. Thank you for your knowledge and aid!

I’ve got a bigger enclosure that I’m working on for when their feeling better (about 30 gallon). And I’ll get them an appropriately sized tank when I know they’ll make it (I just don’t want to sink a tone of money just in case). I’ve dropped their basking spot down and humidity to what you recommend and I’ll move them somewhere cooler so they can get the appropriate night drops. I won’t give them any more vitamins for a few weeks. I know they didn’t get to this point in a day and I shouldn’t expect him to recover in one. With no experience vets in my area I’m just trying to cover all the bases. Myself and my family have gotten very attached to the little guy in the brief time they've been with us. We call them Tiptoe. Thank you again for all your advice and guidance!

 

[WorryWartHerper]

That eye may require antibiotic drops or even treatment for an ulcer. If you don't continue to see improvement then a vet visit will be necessary. I would switch to a powdered cricket formula for feeding that is made for body builders. It is nothing but crickets. I don't know what is in the diets you are feeding but you may risk over supplementing them if the diets are fortified. With the cricket powder you can supplement as you would normally.

My vet (who doesn’t have much experience in reptiles) prescribed tobramycin eye drops. I use a dull insulin needle to flush out their eyes. I’ve gotten several small bits of debris out of both eyes. Since starting they’ve shown marked impediment in the left but none in the right. I’ll try a cricket slurry and see if they improve. Thank you for your insight!

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ve got a bigger enclosure that I’m working on for when their feeling better (about 30 gallon). And I’ll get them an appropriately sized tank when I know they’ll make it (I just don’t want to sink a tone of money just in case). I’ve dropped their basking spot down and humidity to what you recommend and I’ll move them somewhere cooler so they can get the appropriate night drops. I won’t give them any more vitamins for a few weeks. I know they didn’t get to this point in a day and I shouldn’t expect him to recover in one. With no experience vets in my area I’m just trying to cover all the bases. Myself and my family have gotten very attached to the little guy in the brief time they've been with us. We call them Tiptoe. Thank you again for all your advice and guidance!

When you say ‘tank’ and measure size in gallons, I need to let you know that as baby recovers, he’ll be needing something like a ReptiBreeze XL enclosure. Aquarium tanks are not at all good to use for chameleons. There isn’t enough ventilation, which can cause respiratory infection. I understand not wanting to invest much at the moment. As a transition enclosure from hospital bin to permanent one, you would be much better off using something like a butterfly enclosure. https://www.amazon.com/RESTCLOUD-In...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 or https://www.amazon.com/RESTCLOUD-Mo...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Just put a taller plant in there like a schefflera and it would be good.

 

[WorryWartHerper]

When you say ‘tank’ and measure size in gallons, I need to let you know that as baby recovers, he’ll be needing something like a ReptiBreeze XL enclosure. Aquarium tanks are not at all good to use for chameleons. There isn’t enough ventilation, which can cause respiratory infection. I understand not wanting to invest much at the moment. As a transition enclosure from hospital bin to permanent one, you would be much better off using something like a butterfly enclosure. https://www.amazon.com/RESTCLOUD-Insect-Butterfly-Habitat-Terrarium/dp/B074ZHXF48/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1C8Z199D5VBTU&keywords=butterfly+cage&qid=1673648066&sprefix=Butterfly+cage,aps,165&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEUEpaSDZLUTlMS1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1ODE2MDIySVgxOTQwUVlIVkhIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNTQ3MDMzUllKVkFDU1VOUjdZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 or https://www.amazon.com/RESTCLOUD-Monarch-Butterfly-Habitat-Terrarium/dp/B08S38L98J/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=1C8Z199D5VBTU&keywords=butterfly+cage&qid=1673648066&sprefix=Butterfly+cage,aps,165&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEUEpaSDZLUTlMS1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1ODE2MDIySVgxOTQwUVlIVkhIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1Njg2MzMzNDRGMFc1UUNZVTk4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Just put a taller plant in there like a schefflera and it would be good.

I think I might have misspoken. The ‘tank’ I’m planning on using is a front opening vertical terrarium. It is still class though but has a screen top. However even that will be temporary, as soon as he starts recovering I’m planing on getting a Zoomed reptibreeze, but I wanted to offer him more room to exercise since it will take a few weeks to be delivered and set up. But if you think the other enclosures you mentioned would be better I’m more than happy to get them!

Thank you again for your continued support! ​

 

[WorryWartHerper]

When you say ‘tank’ and measure size in gallons, I need to let you know that as baby recovers, he’ll be needing something like a ReptiBreeze XL enclosure. Aquarium tanks are not at all good to use for chameleons. There isn’t enough ventilation, which can cause respiratory infection. I understand not wanting to invest much at the moment. As a transition enclosure from hospital bin to permanent one, you would be much better off using something like a butterfly enclosure. https://www.amazon.com/RESTCLOUD-Insect-Butterfly-Habitat-Terrarium/dp/B074ZHXF48/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1C8Z199D5VBTU&keywords=butterfly+cage&qid=1673648066&sprefix=Butterfly+cage,aps,165&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEUEpaSDZLUTlMS1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1ODE2MDIySVgxOTQwUVlIVkhIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNTQ3MDMzUllKVkFDU1VOUjdZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 or https://www.amazon.com/RESTCLOUD-Monarch-Butterfly-Habitat-Terrarium/dp/B08S38L98J/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=1C8Z199D5VBTU&keywords=butterfly+cage&qid=1673648066&sprefix=Butterfly+cage,aps,165&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEUEpaSDZLUTlMS1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1ODE2MDIySVgxOTQwUVlIVkhIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1Njg2MzMzNDRGMFc1UUNZVTk4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Just put a taller plant in there like a schefflera and it would be good.

This is what I was going to use as their “intermediate” set up, just for visual confirmation.

 

[MissSkittles]

Ohhh…ok. I misunderstood. Just do be careful and closely watch humidity and ventilation. Naturally humidity will spike when misting, but watch that it doesn’t stay over 50% all the time. You may want to add a small fan on the top of the enclosure to suck air up and out (not blowing in) just to help with ventilation. It’s not high humidity alone that increases RI risk, but poor air circulation…that heavy stagnant wet air.

 

[Lindasjackson]

My vet (who doesn’t have much experience in reptiles) prescribed tobramycin eye drops. I use a dull insulin needle to flush out their eyes. I’ve gotten several small bits of debris out of both eyes. Since starting they’ve shown marked impediment in the left but none in the right. I’ll try a cricket slurry and see if they improve. Thank you for your insight!

I know you’re trying to do your best to help you little one but Please don’t use blunt needles anywhere near chams eyes!!! Even though it is blunt, it is metal and rigid. This can damage eyes as it can still scratch the surface of the eyes and the tissue inside and around the eyes. It would be best just to flush the eyes with a soft silicone type eye dropper if you can find one Or just lightly spray him and let him roll his eyes around like they do to clean them themselves.

 

[WorryWartHerper]

I’m elated to report Tiptoe the vailed chameleon now has two functioning eyes! We still have a long way to go to get them back on track but I just wanted to thank you all for your time, knowledge and reassurance. It is wonderful to have a community so willing to help and encourage its members!
Thank you thank you thank you!