ambilobe panther chameleon HELP PLEASE!!!

Weebrat6

New Member
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - ambilobe panther chameleon, Male, I have had if for maybe 2.5years.
Handling - After it got sick the last time, I quit handling it so much, But when I first got it and it was small, I would handle it every day. (he is tame,but still doesn't really like to be held, or at least taken out of cage once I have him out he is fine) right now, hes not fighting much, hes sick again
Feeding - I feed him crickets, I have a cricket gut load jello looking stuff, and I dust every other day (or was dusting) with cal and vit. He used to eat 5 a day, but since the last time he was sick (just over a year ago) hes only been eating about 3 crickets a day. (I went from large crickets to medium, because the large ones were biting him, and causing their own problems)
Supplements - I don't remember, one from the reptile store. If this is important let me know, and I will tell you while I am at home.
Watering - I used to spray his cage 2-3 times a day. Now I bought a mister (maybe this is the cause, the mister requires distilled water, is that ok?) It mist for like 5 sec every 3 hours I believe. Just enough to get the leafs wet.
Fecal Description - Looks the same as it always, looks, but because he is not really eating, he hasn't been going so much. Part is that white looking, then some brown or black (I always see it well after he does it, I work a lot)
History - about a year ago, I took him to the vet, he had some sperm plugs, and so the vet though maybe it was infected because they were there for awhile. (I pulled two (one from each side) out like 3 days ago). But when he took blood from down there it was all fine. IN the end I took him in like 3 times, with nothing really. could not figure out why he was the way he was. They gave me antibodies, and vitamins that I force fed him. and Dog food, I force fed him. also mineral oil to make him poop. He got better, and I say that loosely because like I said before he didn't really eat like he used to. Both times he has been sick, has been since I have moved. if that plays a role. I yesterday started forcing water and vitamins and those antibodies (kz I had some left) today, I was going to call my vet and see what dog food that was before. But I am asking for help, because I want to know why he is like this and what is causing it.

Symptoms::: He is normally dark green, I will post a pic from last time because that is what I have, but he looks the same. He is now bright red and yellow mostly. lethargic, hasn't been eating. yesterday his eyes looked sunk in, (thus the forcing water) His head hasn't been fully bumped like it was before he was sick the first time. He wont eat, I forced a cricket in his mouth today, he ate that, two more after that he spit out. I really don't know what it could be. Also, like I said I switched to med crickets kz the large ones were biting him. So he has some scars. (the vet told me cricket bite) one on his side, a few on his mouth (which were infected but I cleaned them and they are healed but doesn't look like before he had them) and now one above his eye.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - it is a wire screen cage. about 18" wide, maybe 2 feet tall and maybe 12" deep
Lighting - I don't know all the brands, but I have a normal heat lamp (bottom of cage is about 72-75*F during the day (right now while it is cold, is that hot enough, that is at the bottom, not sure the top). and a uvb or what ever light they need to imitate the sun, it is the tropical one. Usually around 5am-8pm the lights are on, we turn both off at night.
Temperature - as stated before, 72-75* on bottom, not sure the top, have a thermometer in the bottom of the cage, at night the coldest might be 69* based on the fact thats what we have our ac/ heater to... but that is the lowest.
Humidity - My husband just put a reader in there, haven't paid attention, but we water every 3 hours, so that should help
Plants - fake, we tried live ones, got to big for the cage, and the leafs kept falling off, leaving no where for our guy to drink from.
Placement - no fans are near the cage, air vents not too sure, but nothing blowing directly on him. our ceilings are tall, 11 feet, the bottom of his cage is about 3 feet from the floor.
Location - Southern California, USA

Pictures: The one of small and big is when I first got him, to what he looked like before sick, another picture of his face shows how his bumps on his head looked before sick the first time, and the third pic is from when he was sick last time, but like I said, he looks the same this time.
 

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Ok, I am no expert but I can cover some of the basics.

Food: Are you only feeding him crickets? If this is the case, he could be on a hunger strike. You need to be able to provide a variance in his food because they get sick of the same old food day in and day out just as e as humans would.

Supplements: you should be dusting with calcium without D3 every feeding and with D3 twice a month as well as a multivitamin twice a month.

Watering: you need to mist longer, 5 seconds to get the leaves wet is not enough. Personally, I mist every 3 hours while the lights are on for 2 minutes each mist. Again this would also depend on how many nozzles you have in your cage as you could create pooling in the bottom which then becomes a home to bacteria if it doesnt evaporate. Also, you can provide your little guy with a dripper, either store bought or made. a small container with a pin hole works perfectly. Make sure it is dripping onto a leaf so that he can lick it off when he wants to.

Fecal: the white portion is the urate, this should always be white. if it is not white it is one of the easy key signs to dehydration before anything serious starts to appear. Poop should be brown and firm.

Sperm Plugs: you should not pull these out as you never know how or what they are still attached to internally. Pulling these out can cause internal damage and/or bleeding.

Lighting/Heat: This is very important. Please check the temperature of the basking spot as if it is too hot it could be a big part of your issue. Personally, living in ontario we have temperature jumps that can be frustrating when trying to regulate temperatures. We had a really warm week a month or so ago which caused the temperatures to skyrocket in my little guys enclosure. He wouldn't eat and was very lethargic. I checked his cage temps and they were higher than they should be, once regulated again he was his normal self again.

Fat Pads: "bumps on head" - In the middle picture they look fine which means he was eating well, when they deplete it's due to not eating and therefore not having fat to store. Again, try changing the diet and this should help with how frequently he eats.

I hope all this helps, and I hope that the more senior members can add to my basic information.
 
Yes, just crickets. What else should I feed him? I have given him mealworms, he liked those, but my husband says they do not have enough protein for him. And I cannot find silkworms or anything like that around here.

The sperm plugs my vet told me to pull out. they get hard and stuck in there, even then do I leave them alone??? (he showed me how to massage his things out to pull them out, In the pic he is sick in, that what I was doing was soaking him in lukewarm water to soften them to pull them out)

I am just so bugged, that last time they could not find out what was wrong with him, it was aug/sep 2013 that he was sick. They did do a poop check, and didn't find any parasites.

What should my temperatures be for say top and bottom of cage, and humidity?

I have a dripper, but it pools at the bottom of the cage, we have a dual mister, and it keeps the cardboard at the bottom of the cage wet, just keeping it on for the 5 sec. We had it longer, but once again it would pool.

I will get some mealworms today. And try those, (I like them better than crickets, because they don't bite him, but I hate having to hand feed him one by one).

I will look at the vitamines when I get home and see what they are exactly. My husband had a chameleon before this one (did not last too long, I found that out after buying this guy) and some how I am the one that is taking care of him, even though it was my husband that HAD to have him. Have to say though I have gotten pretty attached to the guy. Would be hard on me if I couldn't figure this out. Thanks for the post, I have a few more things to try!!!

Any other thoughts would be great!! Thank you!!!
 
some common feeders are crickets, locusts, roaches, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, and superworms. Feeders such as mealworms and waxworms are high in fat and harder to digest so they should only be used occasionally.

Not all feeders will be available to you, you will have to look into what you have access to.

The basking spot should be between 80-90, make sure that your chameleon cant get too close to the bulb as you then risk thermal burns. The cage should then have cooler temps towards the bottom to offer them somewhere to get out of the heat. The lights should be on 10-12 hours a day depending on the time of year and what time the sun rises and sets, a timer works great as you can set it and only change when required. When the lights are not on, they require complete darkness to sleep.

Regarding the sperm plugs, i've always been told to let them dry out and fall out naturally.

Water Pooling: I'd suggest creating some sort of drain system in the bottom. possibly cut a small hole, cover with screen and have a bucket to catch the water? You do need to have the mister going more than 5 seconds at a time to provide enough water. Unfortunately, you cant tell them when to drink, they could want to an hour after the mister goes off and by then the leaves have dried.

Hope this helps!
 
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Well that is great info to start with thank you! I will let you know if his condition improves with this. If I can't get him to eat mealworms tonight, I will have to force feed him to get something in him. Fingers crossed he will eat!

Thanks!!!!
 
See what other types of worms your pet store offers.... you may have to go to a more reptile friendly store and not just your standard pet co to get a variety. Also, he may not like to eat with an audience.... try putting a worm on a branch and walking out of the room for half hour then come back and see if it's gone.

They can be finiky creatures, and their personality and habits can change at the drop of a hat.

Good luck, I hope some of this helps!
 
You can buy feeders online and have them shipped, but that depends on where you live and you did not list your location. If you are in the US there are tons of suppilers online. When was the last time you changed out your uvb bulb? His diet is poor and and should have way more variety. What you are feeding your crickets is junk and has little nutrition. What your crickets eat, eventually ends up inside your chameleon. What you are dusting with is very important. If you have been using a calcium with d3, instead of one without, it could be causing problems. A multivitamin should not be used everyday either. Most of us that a couple of times a onth. You may very well be overdosing your chameleon with your supplemments. It can and will eventually take a toll on their health. It very well could be your problem. It is important to find out what you are using.
 
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - ambilobe panther chameleon, Male, I have had if for maybe 2.5years.
Handling - After it got sick the last time, I quit handling it so much, But when I first got it and it was small, I would handle it every day. (he is tame,but still doesn't really like to be held, or at least taken out of cage once I have him out he is fine) right now, hes not fighting much, hes sick again
Feeding - I feed him crickets, I have a cricket gut load jello looking stuff, and I dust every other day (or was dusting) with cal and vit.

I would recommend that you feed/gutload the crickets with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.

He used to eat 5 a day, but since the last time he was sick (just over a year ago) hes only been eating about 3 crickets a day. (I went from large crickets to medium, because the large ones were biting him, and causing their own problems) was he on antibiotics the last time he was sick?

Supplements - I don't remember, one from the reptile store. If this is important let me know, and I will tell you while I am at home.It would be good to know what the supplements are and how often he gets each.


Watering - I used to spray his cage 2-3 times a day. Now I bought a mister (maybe this is the cause, the mister requires distilled water, is that ok?) It mist for like 5 sec every 3 hours I believe. Just enough to get the leafs wet.
Fecal Description - Looks the same as it always, looks, but because he is not really eating, he hasn't been going so much. Part is that white looking, then some brown or black (I always see it well after he does it, I work a lot)
History - about a year ago, I took him to the vet, he had some sperm plugs, and so the vet though maybe it was infected because they were there for awhile. (I pulled two (one from each side) out like 3 days ago). But when he took blood from down there it was all fine. IN the end I took him in like 3 times, with nothing really. could not figure out why he was the way he was. They gave me antibodies, and vitamins that I force fed him. and Dog food, I force fed him. also mineral oil to make him poop. He got better, and I say that loosely because like I said before he didn't really eat like he used to. Both times he has been sick, has been since I have moved. if that plays a role. I yesterday started forcing water and vitamins and those antibodies (kz I had some left) today, I was going to call my vet and see what dog food that was before. But I am asking for help, because I want to know why he is like this and what is causing it. do you mean antibiotics not antibodies? What vitamins? Not a fan of giving them dog food. There are other options like the Susan James/Kenny Lopez "bug juice".

Symptoms::: He is normally dark green, I will post a pic from last time because that is what I have, but he looks the same. He is now bright red and yellow mostly. lethargic, hasn't been eating. yesterday his eyes looked sunk in, (thus the forcing water) His head hasn't been fully bumped like it was before he was sick the first time. He wont eat, I forced a cricket in his mouth today, he ate that, two more after that he spit out. I really don't know what it could be.
not good that he's spitting out the crickets. When you are "forcing" him to take water I hope you aren't shooting it into his mouth but rather easing it in so he won't aspirate it.
Also, like I said I switched to med crickets kz the large ones were biting him. So he has some scars. (the vet told me cricket bite) one on his side, a few on his mouth (which were infected but I cleaned them and they are healed but doesn't look like before he had them) and now one above his eye.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - it is a wire screen cage. about 18" wide, maybe 2 feet tall and maybe 12" deep
Lighting - I don't know all the brands, but I have a normal heat lamp (bottom of cage is about 72-75*F during the day (right now while it is cold, is that hot enough, that is at the bottom, not sure the top). and a uvb or what ever light they need to imitate the sun, it is the tropical one. Usually around 5am-8pm the lights are on, we turn both off at night.
Temperature - as stated before, 72-75* on bottom, not sure the top, have a thermometer in the bottom of the cage, at night the coldest might be 69* based on the fact thats what we have our ac/ heater to... but that is the lowest.
whats the basking temperature?
Humidity - My husband just put a reader in there, haven't paid attention, but we water every 3 hours, so that should help
Plants - fake, we tried live ones, got to big for the cage, and the leafs kept falling off, leaving no where for our guy to drink from.
Placement - no fans are near the cage, air vents not too sure, but nothing blowing directly on him. our ceilings are tall, 11 feet, the bottom of his cage is about 3 feet from the floor.
Location - Southern California, USA

Pictures: The one of small and big is when I first got him, to what he looked like before sick, another picture of his face shows how his bumps on his head looked before sick the first time, and the third pic is from when he was sick last time, but like I said, he looks the same this time.

He needs to see a good reptile vet ASAP IMHO because they can go down hill quickly.
 
I did the math, he was about 3, because I had him for almost 3 years. But he didn't make it. Im not sure what was different from last time, but either way he is gone now. Thanks for all your help. Wish I would have found this website sooner. (His UVB bulb was probably 3 months old. I just changed it, and I checked his basking temps, and they were what everyone was recommending)
Thanks again guys
 
Control of pooling water

My cage has a solid plastic bottom. I do not use substrate of any kind including paper. I place clean sponges under the drip areas to absorb the water and remove them when they are soaked. This works very well. Hope it helps.
 
I use sponges under the drip areas on the bottom of Sam's cage. I do not use a substrate, even paper. The sponges work very well.
 
Removing all my comments. I didn't see that he had past. So sorry to hear that.
 
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Removing all my comments. I didn't see that he had past. So sorry to hear that.
 
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Its ok, I want to know what I did wrong, just in case I ever decide to get another one. I thought I was taking care of him right, he was healthy for about a year and a half, then got sick the first time, was ok for the next year than got even more sick, I couldn't save him this time. I thought maybe it was the move, because the first time was soon after we moved.

Info you guys asked for:

I was giving him Rep-Cal Herptivite with beta carotene multivitamins, and Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium with VIT.D3 Ultrafine Powder. This is what my husband told me I had to dust his food with every other day. I am not sure if it is the pet store (a reptile one) that told us, or if it was what my husband researched the first time. But I am guessing the D3 is the 3 you guys kept saying only to give once a month. Gosh I really wish I knew that when I got him. Like I said, my husband had one before, So I thought that he knew how to care for him. I just did what he and my vet told me.

Having said that, what problems does the D3 cause? What would be the signs of too much? To see if that is what was wrong with my little guy.
 
Sorry you lost him. It's hard to see them go.

D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to bone issues, kidney issues and other issues. D3 from exposure to UVB should not build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.

D3 also interacts with the vitamin A if the two aren't in balance...but this would only involve the prEformed vitamin A because it can build up in the system.. Beta carotene is prOformed and won't build up in the system.

Also...If there is too much D3 from supplements and you really overdo the calcium you will end up with too much calcium in the system and it can cause problems.

Phosphorus/calcium ratio in most feeder insects in poor so dusting the insects with calciumn at most feedings helps to make up for it.

Calcium, phosphorous, D3 and vitamin A are all important players in bone health and other things in the system and need to be in balance.

Hope this helps and once again....sorry for your loss.
 
Sorry you lost him. It's hard to see them go.

D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to bone issues, kidney issues and other issues. D3 from exposure to UVB should not build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.

D3 also interacts with the vitamin A if the two aren't in balance...but this would only involve the prEformed vitamin A because it can build up in the system.. Beta carotene is prOformed and won't build up in the system.

Also...If there is too much D3 from supplements and you really overdo the calcium you will end up with too much calcium in the system and it can cause problems.

Phosphorus/calcium ratio in most feeder insects in poor so dusting the insects with calciumn at most feedings helps to make up for it.

Calcium, phosphorous, D3 and vitamin A are all important players in bone health and other things in the system and need to be in balance.

Hope this helps and once again....sorry for your loss.



So what are the signs of bone issues and kidney issues? I mean it might very well been what was making him sick? am not sure. But... I just want to know if I can if that is what it is.
Thanks!
 
Sorry for your loss, bone issues could be mbd, bowing of the legs, brittle bones, breaks or fractures in bones. I looked up Cham kidney disease and there don't seem to be many signs, he'd just start acting unusual
 
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