Advice on refusing to eat Chams

[Tleo724]

So those gutloaders are not good I’ve attached some photos to proper gut load. Like I said real plants only they’re in the links I put. Chameleons are insectivores they shouldn’t eat tomatoes or banana here’s some foods you can give. Wax worms are supposed to be fed as treats not staples, mealworms are not recommended so none of those. Correct supplements are in the links I put. Basking bulb is wrong should be a regular incandescent house bulb. I’ll let someone else review all your husbandry. Uvb is incorrect also in the links I put

So those gutloaders are not good I’ve attached some photos to proper gut load. Like I said real plants only they’re in the links I put. Chameleons are insectivores they shouldn’t eat tomatoes or banana here’s some foods you can give. Wax worms are supposed to be fed as treats not staples, mealworms are not recommended so none of those. Correct supplements are in the links I put. Basking bulb is wrong should be a regular incandescent house bulb. I’ll let someone else review all your husbandry. Uvb is incorrect also in the links I put

 

[Tleo724]

So those gutloaders are not good I’ve attached some photos to proper gut load. Like I said real plants only they’re in the links I put. Chameleons are insectivores they shouldn’t eat tomatoes or banana here’s some foods you can give. Wax worms are supposed to be fed as treats not staples, mealworms are not recommended so none of those. Correct supplements are in the links I put. Basking bulb is wrong should be a regular incandescent house bulb. I’ll let someone else review all your husbandry. Uvb is incorrect also in the links I put

great list! they have a picture of Chams on the meal worms food cup in the pet store. so confusing! his diet will be enhanced from now on

 

[Tleo724]

He needs live chameleon-safe plants only, no fake plants because they are an impaction risk. All plants should be properly cleaned beforehand and have rocks too big for him to eat covering the soil in their pots. He also needs vines (preferably live but fake without leaves will work- just no Exo Terra vines, so you’ll want replace your Exo Terra ones) and branches. He needs a T5 HO linear light fixture either the length of, or a foot longer than, his enclosure with either an Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med 5.0 linear bulb of the matching size. Get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it as well, it‘s a life-saver! He also needs a regular white light household incandescent bulb instead of the red one. His cage also needs proper drainage on the outside/under his cage, no paper towel or drip bowl in it.

https://www.petproducts.com/product...a-chHru3jLeCTPHkJbOvTVZmCpvCsz4xoCg20QAvD_BwE
is this the same bulb and the fixture you're talking about?

 

[cruz.m]

https://www.petproducts.com/product...a-chHru3jLeCTPHkJbOvTVZmCpvCsz4xoCg20QAvD_BwE
is this the same bulb and the fixture you're talking about?

It needs to be at least 24” that ones too short. The Arcadia 6% only has to be replaced once a year while the t5ho every 6 months so I recommend the Arcadia

 

[kinyonga]

MY ANSWERS ARE IN CAPS

Chameleonair- Veiled, Male, 3yrs, since he was a few months (bought from PetSmart)
Handling- maybe once a month <-- rarely only take him out to show a friend that has never seen him. I've read veiled don't like to be handled much
Feeding& suppliments- crickets, wax worms, meal worms tomatoes, bananas on occasion. YOUVE ALREADY BEEN GIVEN A LINK TO FEEDERS AND VEGGIES TO FEED/GUTLOAD THE INSECTS WITH.
I go back and forth between crickets and wax lightly coated in calcium every feed - every 2/3 days. always in the morning. Multi vitamin once a month. crickets are nutrified night before feed (connected brand photos) ITS IMPORTANT TO DUST THE INSECTS WITH A PHOS FREE CALCIUM POWDER AT EVERY FEEDING BUT ONE A WEEK. ON THAT ONE DAY, ALTERNATE BETWEEN A PHOS FREE CALCIUM/D3 POWDER AND A VITAMIN POWDER WITHOUT D3.
AT THIS AGE HE SHOULD ONLY BE FED EVERY OTHER DAY OR 3 TIMES A WEEK, ABOUT 4 OR 5 INSECTS PER FEEDING
watering - I use my room temperature BRITA water which I pour into water dripper. water dripper falls off a leaf where he drinks -clean water dripper weekly THE CAGE SHOULD BE MISTED TWICE A DAY AS WELL.
Fecal- poop: black turds. Pee : white watery clusters . I think it can be chunky a little
History- brought him into a vet once for a "scab" that ended up being a tomato seed... vet did examination he was good
I WONDERED WHAT EVER HAPPENED WITH THAT SCAB!
CAGE
Cage Type- Screen, 24' 24' 48'
Lighting- FLUKERS 60 Watt. (pictured below) BASKING LIGHT SHOULD BE A WHITE LIGHT...CAN BE A REGULAR HOUSEHOLD INCANDESCENT LIGHT BULB OF A WATTAGE THAT PROVIDES THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE (80 F) IN THE BASKING AREA. THE UVB SHOULD BE A LONG LINEAR TUBE REPTISUN 5.0 OR ARCADIA 12 LONG LINEAR TUBE LIGHT.
Temp - temp gage in enclosure. lowest overnight: 68-70F
DAYTIME?
Humidity- no gage, I spray the enclosure daily and have a dripper daily
Plants- Golden Pothos
Placement- on a 24' stand with 9 foot ceilings. he's in a nook in the living room. AC/heater is 10 feet away. no breeze because he's in a nook . NOT NEAR A INDOW?
Location- Portland Oregon

AS FOR NOT EATING, IT COULD BE FOR A NUMBER OF REASONS...INCLUDING HUSBANDRY ISSUES. I WISH I HAD A SPECIFIC ANSWER FOR WHY ITS HAPPENING.

 

[ERKleRose]

https://www.petproducts.com/product...a-chHru3jLeCTPHkJbOvTVZmCpvCsz4xoCg20QAvD_BwE
is this the same bulb and the fixture you're talking about?

Yes, but you need either the 2’ version (lay/raise up/hang over straight across the middle on top of the cage) or the 3’ version (lay/raise up/ hang over diagonally across the top). If you go with an Arcadia 6% bulb, you only have to change it once a year, while Zoo Med‘s are every 6 months. Either way, definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it! It’ll give you precise UVI readings, let you know if a linear UVB bulb is defective, and tell you when you actually need to replace a linear UVB bulb (when the readings are cut in half)!
Here’s the link @cruz.m gave you, just pick the length (24” or 36”) and the bulb strength (6%)!
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html

 

[ERKleRose]

Also, here is the updated gutload chart

 

[ERKleRose]

Have you made an appointment with an experienced chameleon vet yet? When you do, make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you to the appointment, and since he hasn’t had D3 or proper lighting, I would also recommend x-rays and bloodwork (he is old enough to get bloodwork done safely) to be done, as well. Afterwards, make sure to drop off at least 2 more fresh fecal samples after that to make sure no parasites were missed. Since you only have a calcium without D3 (which is a quality brand) and a multivitamin without D3 (which isn’t a quality brand), I would replace the Exo Terra multivitamin with Zoo Med Reptivite with D3. You would use your Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 every feeding, except for once every two weeks, when you would use the Zoo Med Reptivite with D3. Also, even though you say he’s trained himself to not eat fake plants, they need to be removed ASAP and replaced with real ones! Knowing precise temps and humidity levels are critically important! Could you please fill both of those categories in with basking temp, overnight temp, ambient temp, daytime humidity levels, and nighttime humidity levels, along with how you measure both, please? You need to get a digital hygrometer ASAP! Have you read through all of The Chameleon Academy yet? Sorry for all of the information overload, we just want to make sure you make all of correct changes needed!