3 inch Veiled Chameleon- Squinted Eyes but Active

Snoop

New Member
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? 3 inch Veiled Chameleon, just started watching (as of 5/7) for son this summer. And his eyes have been squinted since we got him but he’s been active. Included one photo from December of when Snoop’s eyes were open. And saw another photo of him in April where his eyes also appeared to be squinted. So don’t believe this is a recent issue. Thoughts?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? With the transition of Snoop Dogg being relocated, we haven’t handled.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? We are providing small crickets and meal worms. We make sure he has at least two crickets if not more in his enclosure. And 5-6 meal worms available. We are providing the crickets with water and apple.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? We are dipping the crickets in repti calcium.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? We have tree stump fogger that we run as needed. We also mist the enclosure a few times a day. We haven’t seen him drink.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? I don’t believe the chameleon has ever been tested for parasites. His droppings are brown and a bit runny.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? See pic.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? Thrive, UVB light and we have been using a red infrared light
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? We have a thermometer- temp 70- 90 and humidity 50-80%
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Please see above
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Artificial plants
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? We have it on our mantle
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Midwest
 

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Serbianchameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
It is possible that he is too tired because there should be no lights at night. Maybe he cant sleep because of the red light. It need to he total dark. If he still does not open the eye after about two nights of good sleep (without red light) then try misting water above his eyes so the small droplets drop in his eyes and he can try to wash them that way. As of the UVB, you have the wrong UVB light. He will get Metabolic bone disease if you dont get T5HO linear UVB light with 5%. About the parasites, you should test him just to be sure.. Its better to feed the crickets vegetables that have good vitamins than fruits! I hope I helped a bit! Wish you luck. Get the UVB light ASAP!
 

Snoop

New Member
It is possible that he is too tired because there should be no lights at night. Maybe he cant sleep because of the red light. It need to he total dark. If he still does not open the eye after about two nights of good sleep (without red light) then try misting water above his eyes so the small droplets drop in his eyes and he can try to wash them that way. As of the UVB, you have the wrong UVB light. He will get Metabolic bone disease if you dont get T5HO linear UVB light with 5%. About the parasites, you should test him just to be sure.. Its better to feed the crickets vegetables that have good vitamins than fruits! I hope I helped a bit! Wish you luck. Get the UVB light ASAP!
Thanks! Great, advice! We were wondering if it’s a lighting issue as well. And thought he might not be sleeping. As our son has been using a 75 watt repti basking lamp and a 100 watt Exo UVB light during the day and then at night switches out the 75 watt repti basking lamp for the 75 watt infrared basking spot light.
 

Snoop

New Member
Also, do you have a TSHO linear UVB light with 5% that you’d recommend for this type of setup? In addition, what to you recommend to use to keep the temp warm at night with the lights off?
 

Serbianchameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
She is still too small atm but females reproduce infertile eggs without mating. You should have a laybin always in the enclosure. Heres a guide! Happy to help!
0CDF488B-D1B5-47B8-82A6-E65F1A2EFF0E.jpeg
 

Serbianchameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
Also, do you have a TSHO linear UVB light with 5% that you’d recommend for this type of setup? In addition, what to you recommend to use to keep the temp warm at night with the lights off?
I do have. Everyone needs to have that light if they have a chameleon. Temps at night could and should drop, ofcourse not too much but they can go down even to 68 degrees (20 in celsius).
 

PoseidonTheChameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
Also, do you have a TSHO linear UVB light with 5% that you’d recommend for this type of setup? In addition, what to you recommend to use to keep the temp warm at night with the lights off?
https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-repti...pFkKgQMhf5WyOP26UGt-tcwFb6O--iU0aAuaWEALw_wcB

You will also need to upgrade her enclosure to a 4ftx2ftx2ft when she gets older. She will lay eggs even if she is not mated so please look at the sheet given above and ask any questions that you have. Colored lights are harmful for their eyes so this could be the reason. Any white incandescent bulb, not LED will work. Her basking temps should be about 80, the higher the temps, the more eggs she will produce when she is older, you want as less eggs as possible. How much are you feeding her? What is the humidity?
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome here! I some extra info to share with you, and it'll be in red! I'll also attach helpful links and images at the end!

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? 3 inch Veiled Chameleon, just started watching (as of 5/7) for son this summer. And his eyes have been squinted since we got him but he’s been active. Included one photo from December of when Snoop’s eyes were open. And saw another photo of him in April where his eyes also appeared to be squinted. So don’t believe this is a recent issue. Thoughts? As previously stated, he is actually a she, so as she gets older, you'll have to worry about eggs, and make sure her feeding amounts and temps are perfect so she lays good. The lay bin chart has already been attached!
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? With the transition of Snoop Dogg being relocated, we haven’t handled. Great! If you want to build trust, a great way to do that is through hand-feeding!
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? We are providing small crickets and meal worms. We make sure he has at least two crickets if not more in his enclosure. And 5-6 meal worms available. We are providing the crickets with water and apple. Mealworms are not good staple feeders, and apples aren't the greatest gutload ingredient. You'll want to use as many good gutload ingredients that you can find and order as many different types/species of healthy feeders that you can find, too, as variety is best! I'll attach the feeder and gutload charts at the end! At her age, feed her as much as she'll eat!
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? We are dipping the crickets in repti calcium. Okay, so you need three different supplements for a healthy chameleon: a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3), a phosphorus-free calcium with D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium With D3), and a multivitamin without D3 (like Zoo Med Reptivite Without D3). You'll use the calcium without D3 at every feeding, except once per week. On that one day per week, you'll alternate between the calcium with D3 and the multivitamin without D3 so that each is used once every two weeks. A great way to coat the feeders is to put the supplement powder in a bag or cup, and add the feeders in, then swirl them all around until every feeder is lightly coated with supplement (you don't want feeders that look like powdered donuts).
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? We have tree stump fogger that we run as needed. We also mist the enclosure a few times a day. We haven’t seen him drink. You need to take out that fogger ASAP! Foggers can only be used if they're cool-mist only, are deep and thoroughly cleaned a minimum of once per week (including all tubes and any other accessories used), and are only used during the coldest parts of the night, but only if there is enough airflow (there isn't in that current cage) and it is or below 65*F! The fogger should be on the outside of the cage with the output tube at or near the top of the cage so the fog rolls down. If your fogger comes with crinkle tubing, replace it with either vinyl tubing or PVC pipe. You need to be misting a minimum of 2 times a day (preferably around lights on and off) for a minimum of 2-5+ minutes each time. Definitely get a good automated mister (like a MistKing or CliMist) if you can afford it! You can run a dripper during the day and/or mist in the late afternoon if your humidity drops too low or your chameleon needs more hydration, as well. Make sure to use at least dechlorinated water for everything, if not reverse osmosis, distilled, or RO/DI (it's both).
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? I don’t believe the chameleon has ever been tested for parasites. His droppings are brown and a bit runny. Definitely find a reputable exotics vet with good chameleon experience near you, and take your chameleon and at least one of her fresh fecals with you. They'll do a general check-up, check out her eye, and test for parasites. Make sure to drop off at least two more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites are missed, as well!
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? See pic. Sadly, her entire set-up is completely wrong. She needs either an all screen cage, a glass terrarium with proper airflow/circulation, or a combo cage. Once she gets older, her cage will need to be a minimum size of either 36"x18"x36" tall or 2'x2'x4' tall, but preferably 4'x2'x4' tall or bigger. Bigger is always better! Her cage needs only veiled-tested chameleon safe live plants, as fake ones can cause an impaction, which can lead to death! Her cage furnishings should use only tons of veiled-tested plants that are properly prepared ahead of time (cleaned off with rocks too big for her to eat covering the soil in the pots), tons of branches of multiple species and diameters (just none from toxic or sap-producing trees), and lots of vines (preferably all live, but Fluker's fake vines can work; just no Exo Terra, moss, or fake vines with leaves)! I've attached 2 veiled-test plant charts and a link, along with 2 cage set-up links below.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? Thrive, UVB light and we have been using a red infrared light Both of those lights are sadly wrong, too. You need a T5 High Output linear light fixture with either an Arcadia 6% (replace yearly) or Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 (replace every 6 months) T5 High Output linear UVB bulb of the matching size in it ASAP. It and her heat bulb need to be 8-9" away from her basking branch for proper UVI levels and to prevent burns. For a heat bulb, use a plain white light household incandescent bulb from the hardware store! You'll have to play around with the wattages until you get one that puts out the correct amount of heat. She needs 12 hours of UVB, heat, and possibly plant lights on and 12 hours of complete darkness for her lighting schedule!
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? We have a thermometer- temp 70- 90 and humidity 50-80% Her basking temp is way too high! It should be 78-80*F (and needs to stay that temp for her whole life)! How do you measure her temps, and what are her nighttime temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Please see above Her humidity levels are way too high, too! Make sure the vet checks her out for a respiratory infection, too! High heat and humidity, along with improper airflow can result in them! Her daytime humidity levels need to be between 30-50%, preferably on the lower end of that scale. Her nighttime levels can go up to 100%, but ONLY if there is enough airflow (there isn't in her current cage) and it is at or below 65*F! You can use a cool-mist humidifier at night to raise levels once you get a proper cage if you want to (use it ONLY at night)!
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Artificial plants They need to be all live, veiled-tested, and properly cleaned, like said above.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? We have it on our mantle Are there any windows, vents, or drafts near/at her cage? Is it s quiet room, and do you have any cats or dogs?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Midwest

Here's the links and charts! Make sure to read the veiled species profile and every module, along with listening to as many podcasts as possible, from Bill Strand's The Chameleon Academy, as it has the most accurate and up-to-date chameleon info!
ttps://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
 

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Snoop

New Member
https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output/dp/257664?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Zoo Med&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4v2EBhCtARIsACan3nxCqMNCaDBgmJzcBqL1LbXpFkKgQMhf5WyOP26UGt-tcwFb6O--iU0aAuaWEALw_wcB

You will also need to upgrade her enclosure to a 4ftx2ftx2ft when she gets older. She will lay eggs even if she is not mated so please look at the sheet given above and ask any questions that you have. Colored lights are harmful for their eyes so this could be the reason. Any white incandescent bulb, not LED will work. Her basking temps should be about 80, the higher the temps, the more eggs she will produce when she is older, you want as less eggs as possible. How much are you feeding her? What is the humidity?
Thanks! I saw your info sheet regarding a box for eggs. That’s really good to know, and I think you’re right based on the lack of spurs. As Snoop appears to be a female. Thanks again, for all of the info! We are watching Snoop for the summer, and had no idea that chameleons require as much or more care as a dog 😂
 

Snoop

New Member
https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output/dp/257664?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Zoo Med&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4v2EBhCtARIsACan3nxCqMNCaDBgmJzcBqL1LbXpFkKgQMhf5WyOP26UGt-tcwFb6O--iU0aAuaWEALw_wcB

You will also need to upgrade her enclosure to a 4ftx2ftx2ft when she gets older. She will lay eggs even if she is not mated so please look at the sheet given above and ask any questions that you have. Colored lights are harmful for their eyes so this could be the reason. Any white incandescent bulb, not LED will work. Her basking temps should be about 80, the higher the temps, the more eggs she will produce when she is older, you want as less eggs as possible. How much are you feeding her? What is the humidity?
 

Snoop

New Member
The humidity has been between 50-80%. Our son was feeding her four small crickets a day. We’ve put a few more in as she seems a bit thin.
 

Snoop

New Member
@ERKleRose Thank you for all of the info! I really appreciate it! And I think you're right that items need to be modified for sure. I'm by no means a chameleon expert, and the info you provided will help us get Snoop back on track. The room she is in is quiet but we do have dogs. That's why we've got her up nice and high :) Is there something that we need to know about dogs and chameleons? I've also reached out to a local vet who specializes in reptiles (specifically chameleons) to see if need to take Snoop in for an appt.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
Regarding egg production...controlling both diet and temperature should prevent her from producing big clutches and can even stop production altogether.

As she approaches sexual maturity (indicated by development of mustardy coloured splotches and blue dots) you will want to have already cut down her feedings to 2 or 3 times a week. The amount to feed her would be about 4 or 5 crickets per feeding (or equal calorie value in other insects).

The basking temperature should be at 80F. This slows the metabolism slightly to keep her less hungry.

Make sure you have an appropriate lay bin in her cage at all times once she is mature.

Improper diet, temperatures and failure to provide a proper lay bin can lead to follicular stasis, MBD, prolapsed and huge clutches and end in egg binding, etc and death.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
@ERKleRose Thank you for all of the info! I really appreciate it! And I think you're right that items need to be modified for sure. I'm by no means a chameleon expert, and the info you provided will help us get Snoop back on track. The room she is in is quiet but we do have dogs. That's why we've got her up nice and high :) Is there something that we need to know about dogs and chameleons? I've also reached out to a local vet who specializes in reptiles (specifically chameleons) to see if need to take Snoop in for an appt.
Dogs can stress them out (to death sometimes) and can be dangerous towards chameleons, which why chameleons should be kept in a quiet area where no other pets can get to them, preferably a room with a door.
 

Snoop

New Member
UPDATE 5/17 - Just got back from the vet. In addition to Snoop being very underweight (current weight 6 grams at 5-7 mos). It appears that her eye situation is from a shed. As the vet could see a film under her eye lids. We have eye drops/antibiotics. And we’ll need to feed her chicken baby food or puréed crickets until she can see. As her eye situation is hindering her from eating. We have a follow up appt on Monday. Thank you all for the information! We have a new enclosure, and all of the items recommended ordered.
 
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